Ford voltage leak is like mystery novel. Please read.

frank wight wrote:


> Two weeks later the car won't start...replaced the firewall mounted
> celinoid

Solenoid.

>
> Two weeks later car won't start...replaced battery cables from the
> starter to the
> celinoid AND the celinoid to the battery (2 wires).

SOLENOID!

>
> MY POINT: I think that there is still something in the cars'
> electrical loop
> that is stealing away electricity...maybe the ignition or some wire
> that is
> grounding out (?) your comments are welcome. Thanks.
>

The only way to find problems like this is to be systematic. Remove a
battery cable, and then put an ammeter or test light in series between
the battery and the cable. If the test lamp lights or the ammeter shows
current above a few milliamps (with the doors closed and the hood light
disabled, obviously), then you've got a hidden current draw. Start
removing fuses until it goes away. Remove the bulb in the trunk light to
see if it's not going out when you close the trunk. Same for the
underhood light.

If you don't find a current draw, check the alternator. I don't see ANY
mention of it having been properly checked. Charging a dead battery and
putting it back in won't do any good if the alternator won't keep it
charged. With the engine running, the voltage at the battery should be
AT LEAST 13.8 volts and not over 15.0 volts. If its outside that range,
either the alternator or the regulator is not functioning.

Steve wrote:
> frank wight wrote:
>
>
> > Two weeks later the car won't start...replaced the firewall mounted
> > celinoid
>
> Solenoid.

He probably bought one that didn't come in a box on which that word
would have been written.

Kaz Kylheku wrote:
> Steve wrote:
>> frank wight wrote:
>> > Two weeks later the car won't start...replaced the firewall mounted
>> > celinoid
>>
>> Solenoid.
>
> He probably bought one that didn't come in a box on which that word
> would have been written.

Nah, he must be a Solene Dion fan.

--
All relevant people are pertinent.
All rude people are impertinent.
Therefore, no rude people are relevant.
-- Solomon W. Golomb

Frank.....classic symptoms of a shorted diode in the alternator. The
diodes only let current flow out of the alternator while the engine is
running and prevent it from flowing the opposite direction when you
shut the engine off. If one or more are shorted, everything will work
fine, alternator will still charge, until you turn it off and the
battery begins to drain back through the diodes.


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Seen a stuck horn relay once. The owner must have disconnected the
horn to stop the noise, but the relay coil was still energized by a
shorted horn button wire and that coil drained the battery overnight.
Does the horn on the OP's vehicle work normally?

Dan