Battery Charging

"Somebody" > wrote in message
...
>
> "tech27" > wrote in message
> o.verio.net...
>> True. On those days maybe I'll just back the car out into the sun and sit
> in
>> it. (-;
>
> I just had a visual of you doing that in a subdivision somewhere and your
> neighbours looking out and shaking their heads...
>
> :-)
>
> -Russ.
>

Nah, they're just happy I got rid of the back seat I kept on my front porch
with the case of beer and "Afro-American" buttler ashtray. They also seemed
pleased when I sold my 1973 Chevy Caprice Classic daily driver and the other
Caprice on cinder blocks I kept for parts. Just have to plant some more
grass under where it was on the front lawn.
>

"Matt O'Toole" > wrote in message
...
> maxima1 wrote:
>
>>> For $90, I'd want a new battery...
>>
>> Keep in mind that this is $90 CANADIAN. What is that, something like
>> $20??
>
> Not anymore!
>
> Matt O.
>
>Live mid-market rates as of 2004.11.24 20:10:58 GMT.
90.00 CAD
Canada Dollars = 76.1866 USD
United States Dollars
1 CAD = 0.846517 USD 1 USD = 1.18131 CAD

"Matt O'Toole" > wrote in message
...
> Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
>
>> And I'd baulk at paying 90 dollars for a trickle charger - it should
>> cost no more than any other wall wart type PS, perhaps 20 or so.
>>
>> For 90 dollars you should be able to get a general purpose charger
>> that will also be ok for trickle charging.
>
> Actually, a 13.2V regulated power supply makes a perfect trickle charger.
> These
> are sold in electronics hobbyist stores and catalogs, for tinkering with
> 12V
> gadgets, marine electronics, avionics, etc. You should be able to get a
> 2A unit
> for under $30, and lower current ones even cheaper.
>
> Matt O.

I don't think that's a good idea Matt. You really need to have a unit that
cycles power and has auto shut off/ start. Constant trickle charging can
cause the battery to overheat and even explode if there is no over-charge
protection.

Fred W wrote:

> Where exactly is this "moisture build-up" supposed to occur? The only
> place that I can see (assuming that you are only driving in fair
> weather) would be in the exhaust system. Personally, I would (and do)
> run that risk.

Yes. Old Volvos were known for this, with convoluted exhaust systems that never
dried out on short trips. Brake systems can suffer too, AC/heat systems can get
stinky, and if it's really damp you can get mildew in your interior. Of course
this depends on where you live -- Las Vegas wouldn't be a problem, but Olympia,
WA might. Then there are places where the roads are heavily salted and never
quite dry.

That said, cars are far more resistant to all these things than they were even
15 years ago, and the "common wisdom" about these issues predates that by
decades. So like I said, don't worry too much. Use your common sense, and do
whatever makes you feel better.

The real enemies of a car are mileage and UV, so if you park it indoors you're
preventing most deterioration already. Anything further is really splitting
hairs.

> BTW - after many years of owning roadsters that do not get driven
> regularly in the New England winters, I have found that the savings of
> taking the car off the insurance for 3-4 months is not worth the
> hassle of dropping and adding it to the policy. Granted, that may
> vary with your location.

And your insurance company. With mine (USAA) it would be no problem, and I
could save a lot of money this way. It seems they'd write a whole new policy
for you every day if you wish. They're the most no-hassle insurance company
ever, and one of the cheapest too.

> Besides that, the car would not be covered
> in the event of a catastrophe (fire, etc.) by my home-owners policy.

Worth thinking about, depending on your own personal catastrophe risk, and the
value of your vehicle(s).

> And then there are always thoise few really nice days where the sun
> is shining an the temps sky-rocket to above freezing and the roiads
> are dry enough... Those are actually some of the most satisfying
> driving days ever, after being cooped up so long...

Absolutely. My brother lives in New England, and drives his Miata with the top
down all winter. Great cure for cabin fever.

Matt O.

>
> I don't think that's a good idea Matt. You really need to have a unit that
> cycles power and has auto shut off/ start. Constant trickle charging can
> cause the battery to overheat and even explode if there is no over-charge
> protection.
>


EH ?

So what does the car alternator do when driving across the states for hours /
days on end
or taxis / couriers who run maybe 12 + hours a day - blow up the battery ?

When the alternator has replenished the start current it is providing the
running current for
all the vehicle's electrical systems and maintaining the battery at about 13.8
volts - this
will cause a small current to be continuously fed into the battery - the
battery is then
under "float charge" as any battery manufacturers handbook will say. The max
permitted
float charge will be specified or more commonly the max permitted continuous
applied
voltage to maintain full charge - it is no coincidence that the alternator
manufacturers are
aware of this and have set their alternators to around 13.8 volts. So a
regulated power
supply set at the same voltage is OK - You may be getting confused with NiCad
cells which
after prolonged periods of discharge may need cycling to restore max capacity.

Hope that helps

Nick

In article >,
maxima1 > wrote:
> It is NOT like a wall wart in operation;

A wall wart can be anything you like - AC or DC output, regulated or not.
A power supply or a battery charger. It's just a generic term for a thing
that plugs in direct to a socket.

--
*Speak softly and carry a cellular phone *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article io.net>,
tech27 > wrote:
> I don't think that's a good idea Matt. You really need to have a unit
> that cycles power and has auto shut off/ start. Constant trickle
> charging can cause the battery to overheat and even explode if there is
> no over-charge protection.

It depends entirely on the size of the battery and the current it is
trickle charged at.

--
*It's not hard to meet expenses... they're everywhere.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

tech27 wrote:

> I don't think that's a good idea Matt. You really need to have a unit
> that cycles power and has auto shut off/ start. Constant trickle
> charging can cause the battery to overheat and even explode if there
> is no over-charge protection.

The very definition of trickle charging is current low enough to avoid that.
You're only supplying enough to offset self-discharge and whatever other low
drain is present. With a lead acid battery, as long as the voltage is precisely
controlled, they'll draw exactly what they need. A cycling charger is
unnecessary.

It's actually quite a bit cheaper to make a cycling charger than a good voltage
regulator, which is why there are so many cycling ones on the market.

Matt O.

In article >,
Matt O'Toole > wrote:
> It's actually quite a bit cheaper to make a cycling charger than a good
> voltage regulator, which is why there are so many cycling ones on the
> market.

You'd think by all the hype on certain websites there were some new
inventions in lead acid batteries and chargers. There's not - the
technology is as old as the hills. Merely some fine tuning - which they
try and 'charge' ;-) dearly for.

Lead acid batteries are little smaller, lighter, cheaper or longer lasting
than they were 50 years ago. And never will be, either, in all probability.

--
*I will always cherish the initial misconceptions I had about you

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Wed, 24 Nov 2004 11:11:33 -0500, "tech27"
> wrote:

>> Where exactly is this "moisture build-up" supposed to occur? The only
>> place that I can see (assuming that you are only driving in fair weather)
>> would be in the exhaust system. Personally, I would (and do) run that
>> risk.
>
>Exhaust and internals. Anything that air can get to can potentially get
>moisture and corrosives as the water reacts to other compounds.

Then you'd better not drive your car. Ever. After all, "moisture"
will be the inevitable result of that activity.

I'm in the camp of taking if for a good drive a couple times in the
Winter.