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blower motor failure
1996 Ford Explorer XLT, 4door, 96K miles.
Recently my HVAC blower motor stopped running. I checked the fuses both in the main box and in the power distribution box and they are both good. I then disconnected the electrical supply to the blower motor to check the voltage and get no voltage drop from the hot wire (pink/white) to ground. My Haynes manual says the blower motor resistor and the fan speed switch are on the ground side of the circuit, so these should not be the problem. It could be the main heat controller switch (the one that switches from panel vent to floor vent to defrost, etc.) but I don't think it is: my rear vent blower still works and it requires this switch to be ON. Switching this switch from off to any other setting allows the rear blower to come on, so I know electricity is flowing through this switch. Any ideas on where the circuit fault could be if its not the fuses and not the switch? Anyone have a wiring diagram? I'm stumped. Thanks, HR. |
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#2
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blower motor failure
"Hyde Russell" > wrote in message . com... > 1996 Ford Explorer XLT, 4door, 96K miles. > > Recently my HVAC blower motor stopped running. I checked the fuses both in > the main box and in the power distribution box and they are both good. I > then disconnected the electrical supply to the blower motor to check the > voltage and get no voltage drop from the hot wire (pink/white) to ground. > > My Haynes manual says the blower motor resistor and the fan speed switch > are on the ground side of the circuit, so these should not be the problem. > It could be the main heat controller switch (the one that switches from > panel vent to floor vent to defrost, etc.) but I don't think it is: my > rear vent blower still works and it requires this switch to be ON. > Switching this switch from off to any other setting allows the rear blower > to come on, so I know electricity is flowing through this switch. > > Any ideas on where the circuit fault could be if its not the fuses and not > the switch? Anyone have a wiring diagram? > > I'm stumped. > > Thanks, > HR. > Don't know if this could be your problem but there is a relay on the fender well in the engine compartment that has been know to display this symptom. On my old 94 explorer I had this happen . Sometimes you could even remove it and replace it and the movement of the contact blades cleaned them and it would start working again....but it is a cheap part to replace and very easy so it can be tried for small cost....$5 to $10 dollars as I recall. Blower relay on/in the fuse box I think will get you happy. I hope anyway... Regards, Bill V. |
#3
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blower motor failure
You were right on the money. I found it just behind the headlight on the
right side and replaced it. Works great. My book didn't tell me about the blower relay, so that was a big help. Many thanks. "Fathergoose" > wrote in message news:%FO2g.19120$9v3.17734@trnddc08... > > "Hyde Russell" > wrote in message > . com... >> 1996 Ford Explorer XLT, 4door, 96K miles. >> >> Recently my HVAC blower motor stopped running. I checked the fuses both >> in the main box and in the power distribution box and they are both good. >> I then disconnected the electrical supply to the blower motor to check >> the voltage and get no voltage drop from the hot wire (pink/white) to >> ground. >> >> My Haynes manual says the blower motor resistor and the fan speed switch >> are on the ground side of the circuit, so these should not be the >> problem. It could be the main heat controller switch (the one that >> switches from panel vent to floor vent to defrost, etc.) but I don't >> think it is: my rear vent blower still works and it requires this switch >> to be ON. Switching this switch from off to any other setting allows the >> rear blower to come on, so I know electricity is flowing through this >> switch. >> >> Any ideas on where the circuit fault could be if its not the fuses and >> not the switch? Anyone have a wiring diagram? >> >> I'm stumped. >> >> Thanks, >> HR. >> > Don't know if this could be your problem but there is a relay on the > fender well in the engine compartment that has been know to display this > symptom. > On my old 94 explorer I had this happen . > Sometimes you could even remove it and replace it and the movement of the > contact blades cleaned them and it would start working again....but it is > a cheap part to replace and very easy so it can be tried for small > cost....$5 to $10 dollars as I recall. > Blower relay on/in the fuse box I think will get you happy. > I hope anyway... > Regards, > Bill V. > > |
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