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96 626 brake & rotors - need advice
Have a 96 626 w/ 98K miles & the rotors have been warped (I'm
assuming- shudders significantly when braking) for a good while - probably 10K or so. Also - when braking hard, a bit of grinding is evident too, and I figured that can't be a good thing. So I'm going to attempt replacing rotors & pads. Needless to say, I'm a bit of a rookie, so if my questions seem elementary, go easy on me. Anyway - had some questions. First - does anyone out there know about removing the rotor from the hub once I get the brake assembly out of the way? The Chiltons manual said there on "most" models there will be two small threaded screws holding the rotor on, and a mechanic in the past told me that I would "probably" just knock them off with a hammer. I want a little more certainty of what I'll need to do before I get in there. Are these statements accurate or am I going to need some special tool to get these puppies off? In what order should I do this - first the rotors, then work my way back out, replacing the pads, etc.? Or go ahead and do the pads with the caliper still attached, and then move the caliper out of the way, then the rotor. When replacing the pads & rotors like this, am I going to need to do any bleeding? If so, I'm going to need a better how-to than Chiltons - slightly confusing for a new guy. I'll look around on the web, but if anyone knows of a good site for this, post it. One more - how often do the rear brakes need replacing? I've had the car since for 60K miles and haven't taken a look at them. |
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Rich - where were the threaded holes? Just on the front face of the
rotor between the lug bolt holes? So then just find the right size screw and screw them in towards the hub to push the rotor off? > I don't have a '96 626 but I do have a '98, which I recently did this > job on. I've also had an '88 and an '84 (in addition to two Mazda > trucks). These vehicles have all been very reliable but also hard to > work on. Simple jobs always turn into problems. I can guarantee you > that the rotors will not come right off. My '98 does (did) have > threaded holes that you can run a screw in to push the rotor off. > This works well. I replaced my rotors with NAPA rotors that do not > have threaded holes so I liberally coated the contact areas with > anti-sieze so I'll be able to get them off again. The rest of the job > is straightforward. > Rich Russell |
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I'm in NC - salt is generally not a long term issue - we have a few
ice/snow showers each winter, but no prolonged exposure. So the short of it is - if the rotors come off, not too bad of a DIY job - but if they don't, it could get interesting? I wish there was a way to tell, without going all the way in and discovering I'm screwed. |
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