1991 Honda Prelude

I had to put a new timing belt on my 1991 Honda Prelude Si. I am having
trouble getting it timed just right. Can anyone tell me an easy way to get
the timing set?

Do you mean adjusting the timing via rotating the
distributor housing?

If so, what exactly is wrong? Are you unable to rotate the
housing enough to line up the timing marks on the TB cover
housing and the crankshaft pulley? If so, you may have
installed the belt a tooth or more off.

"rewatring" > wrote
>I had to put a new timing belt on my 1991 Honda Prelude Si.
>I am having
> trouble getting it timed just right. Can anyone tell me an
> easy way to get
> the timing set?
>

One can remove #1 plug and crank the engine until the top of the
compression cycle (Hold you finger in the hole and you'll know when it's
there).

At that point make sure that the flywheel is exactly on TDC and that the
rotor is pointing to the #1 plug wire in the distributor.

If not, the distributor might be a tooth off in one direction or the
other, simply remove far enough to drop in the the next tooth in the
direction required.

JT




Elle wrote:
>
> Do you mean adjusting the timing via rotating the
> distributor housing?
>
> If so, what exactly is wrong? Are you unable to rotate the
> housing enough to line up the timing marks on the TB cover
> housing and the crankshaft pulley? If so, you may have
> installed the belt a tooth or more off.
>
> "rewatring" > wrote
> >I had to put a new timing belt on my 1991 Honda Prelude Si.
> >I am having
> > trouble getting it timed just right. Can anyone tell me an
> > easy way to get
> > the timing set?
> >

rewatring wrote:
> I had to put a new timing belt on my 1991 Honda Prelude Si. I am having
> trouble getting it timed just right. Can anyone tell me an easy way to get
> the timing set?
>
a very common mistake on belt replacement is not having correct tension.
if you have a big timing discrepancy, the belt's out a tooth, but if
it's a small one where the timing marks won't sit quite right under the
strobe, the belt's loose. tension per factory. or google this group
for instructions.

If the op is unsure if it is timed right he should NOT crank it over, if
the valve timing is off and it is an interference engine it may bend a
valve,
I'd suggest putting a ratchet on the crankshaft bolt and remember to turn
it only in the normal direction of rotation
It probably won't matter but you never know when Murphy will get you.
Scott


Grumpy AuContraire > wrote in
:

> One can remove #1 plug and crank the engine until the top of the
> compression cycle (Hold you finger in the hole and you'll know when it's
> there).
>
> At that point make sure that the flywheel is exactly on TDC and that the
> rotor is pointing to the #1 plug wire in the distributor.
>
> If not, the distributor might be a tooth off in one direction or the
> other, simply remove far enough to drop in the the next tooth in the
> direction required.
>
> JT
>
>
>
>

My advice only applies when it is assumed that the timing belt is in the
correct position...

JT




scott wrote:
>
> If the op is unsure if it is timed right he should NOT crank it over, if
> the valve timing is off and it is an interference engine it may bend a
> valve,
> I'd suggest putting a ratchet on the crankshaft bolt and remember to turn
> it only in the normal direction of rotation
> It probably won't matter but you never know when Murphy will get you.
> Scott
>
> Grumpy AuContraire > wrote in
> :
>
> > One can remove #1 plug and crank the engine until the top of the
> > compression cycle (Hold you finger in the hole and you'll know when it's
> > there).
> >
> > At that point make sure that the flywheel is exactly on TDC and that the
> > rotor is pointing to the #1 plug wire in the distributor.
> >
> > If not, the distributor might be a tooth off in one direction or the
> > other, simply remove far enough to drop in the the next tooth in the
> > direction required.
> >
> > JT
> >
> >
> >
> >

Grumpy AuContraire wrote:
> One can remove #1 plug and crank the engine until the top of the
> compression cycle (Hold you finger in the hole and you'll know when it's
> there).
>
> At that point make sure that the flywheel is exactly on TDC and that the
> rotor is pointing to the #1 plug wire in the distributor.
>
> If not, the distributor might be a tooth off in one direction or the
> other, simply remove far enough to drop in the the next tooth in the
> direction required.

Hmmm... every Honda I've worked on used an offset key to lock the distributor
shaft into the camshaft - it'll only fit one way. My old Mazda used a helical
gear to drive the dist. and it possible for it to be off, but I don't think
that's possible in a Honda.

Matt Ion wrote:
>
> Grumpy AuContraire wrote:
> > One can remove #1 plug and crank the engine until the top of the
> > compression cycle (Hold you finger in the hole and you'll know when it's
> > there).
> >
> > At that point make sure that the flywheel is exactly on TDC and that the
> > rotor is pointing to the #1 plug wire in the distributor.
> >
> > If not, the distributor might be a tooth off in one direction or the
> > other, simply remove far enough to drop in the the next tooth in the
> > direction required.
>
> Hmmm... every Honda I've worked on used an offset key to lock the distributor
> shaft into the camshaft - it'll only fit one way. My old Mazda used a helical
> gear to drive the dist. and it possible for it to be off, but I don't think
> that's possible in a Honda.


Not on an '83 or earlier Civic. Distributor has 13 teeth and it doesn't
matter how you position the gear, it will slip right in just like most
Detroit vintage iron. One must be mindful of the rotor orientation
regarding #1 plug...

JT

Grumpy AuContraire wrote:
>
> Matt Ion wrote:
>
>>Grumpy AuContraire wrote:
>>
>>>One can remove #1 plug and crank the engine until the top of the
>>>compression cycle (Hold you finger in the hole and you'll know when it's
>>>there).
>>>
>>>At that point make sure that the flywheel is exactly on TDC and that the
>>>rotor is pointing to the #1 plug wire in the distributor.
>>>
>>>If not, the distributor might be a tooth off in one direction or the
>>>other, simply remove far enough to drop in the the next tooth in the
>>>direction required.
>>
>>Hmmm... every Honda I've worked on used an offset key to lock the distributor
>>shaft into the camshaft - it'll only fit one way. My old Mazda used a helical
>>gear to drive the dist. and it possible for it to be off, but I don't think
>>that's possible in a Honda.
>
>
>
> Not on an '83 or earlier Civic. Distributor has 13 teeth and it doesn't
> matter how you position the gear, it will slip right in just like most
> Detroit vintage iron. One must be mindful of the rotor orientation
> regarding #1 plug...

Ah, learn something every day

A '91 Prelude, however, I can say with 99% certainty, uses the keyed setup and
will only fit one way...

(Actually, that's not 100% correct - a buddy was working on an
early-90-something Civic and managed to put the thing together exactly backward,
so the key sorta-almost fit, enough so he could get the distributor to bolt on,
but with a slight gap... the car ran, just barely.)