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#1
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Ping Speedy
Speedy Jim (or anyone with a spare starter sitting around):
Does anyone know the typical current draw of starter motor Terminal 50? Or, lacking that, the typical DC resistance between Terminal 50 and the body of the starter (ground)? The Wonderbus has a 15A fuse inline with Terminal 50 on the starter. This is the terminal that the ignition switch applies +12 to when you want the starter to go 'round and 'round. When the ignition key just caused my aftermarket relay to "click" without accompanying starter action, I inspected the fuse and found it blown. Thus no +12 on Terminal 50, thus no starter action. I popped in another fuse (a 30A one on hand) and the starter now operates. I reckon either 15 amps is too close to the typical current draw, or Something More Evil occurred to pop the fuse. -- Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott 71 Type 2: the Wonderbus 84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)" KG6RCR ------------------------------------ Today's Deep Thought: I can see clearly now, the brain is gone... ------------------------------------ |
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#2
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Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:
> Speedy Jim (or anyone with a spare starter sitting around): > > Does anyone know the typical current draw of starter motor Terminal 50? > Or, lacking that, the typical DC resistance between Terminal 50 and the > body of the starter (ground)? > > The Wonderbus has a 15A fuse inline with Terminal 50 on the starter. > This is the terminal that the ignition switch applies +12 to when you > want the starter to go 'round and 'round. When the ignition key just > caused my aftermarket relay to "click" without accompanying starter > action, I inspected the fuse and found it blown. Thus no +12 on Terminal > 50, thus no starter action. I popped in another fuse (a 30A one on hand) > and the starter now operates. > > I reckon either 15 amps is too close to the typical current draw, or > Something More Evil occurred to pop the fuse. > The starter solenoid draws ~30 Amps at initial pull-in. That's one reason that VW never put a fuse in there. If you feel you *must* have OC protection, consider using a big automotive-style circuit breaker. Speedy Jim http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/ |
#3
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On 12/18/2004 4:23 PM Speedy Jim wrote:
> Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote: > >> Speedy Jim (or anyone with a spare starter sitting around): >> >> Does anyone know the typical current draw of starter motor Terminal >> 50? Or, lacking that, the typical DC resistance between Terminal 50 >> and the body of the starter (ground)? >> >> The Wonderbus has a 15A fuse inline with Terminal 50 on the starter. >> This is the terminal that the ignition switch applies +12 to when you >> want the starter to go 'round and 'round. When the ignition key just >> caused my aftermarket relay to "click" without accompanying starter >> action, I inspected the fuse and found it blown. Thus no +12 on >> Terminal 50, thus no starter action. I popped in another fuse (a 30A >> one on hand) and the starter now operates. >> >> I reckon either 15 amps is too close to the typical current draw, or >> Something More Evil occurred to pop the fuse. >> > The starter solenoid draws ~30 Amps at initial pull-in. > That's one reason that VW never put a fuse in there. > If you feel you *must* have OC protection, consider using a > big automotive-style circuit breaker. 30A? Well, that goes a long way toward explaining why the fuse popped! Thanks, Jim! Where'd you find the spec? -- Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott 71 Type 2: the Wonderbus 84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)" KG6RCR |
#4
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"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott" et> wrote in message ... > On 12/18/2004 4:23 PM Speedy Jim wrote: > >> Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote: >> >>> Speedy Jim (or anyone with a spare starter sitting around): >>> >>> Does anyone know the typical current draw of starter motor Terminal 50? >>> Or, lacking that, the typical DC resistance between Terminal 50 and the >>> body of the starter (ground)? >>> >>> The Wonderbus has a 15A fuse inline with Terminal 50 on the starter. >>> This is the terminal that the ignition switch applies +12 to when you >>> want the starter to go 'round and 'round. When the ignition key just >>> caused my aftermarket relay to "click" without accompanying starter >>> action, I inspected the fuse and found it blown. Thus no +12 on Terminal >>> 50, thus no starter action. I popped in another fuse (a 30A one on hand) >>> and the starter now operates. >>> >>> I reckon either 15 amps is too close to the typical current draw, or >>> Something More Evil occurred to pop the fuse. >>> >> The starter solenoid draws ~30 Amps at initial pull-in. >> That's one reason that VW never put a fuse in there. >> If you feel you *must* have OC protection, consider using a >> big automotive-style circuit breaker. > > 30A? Well, that goes a long way toward explaining why the fuse popped! > Thanks, Jim! Where'd you find the spec? > > -- > Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott > 71 Type 2: the Wonderbus > 84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)" > KG6RCR If you want over-current protection, you might see if you can get one of those newfangled fusible links in the 30-50 amp range. Probably survive better than a straight fuse. The fusible link off my battery is 12 years old. Charles of Kankakee |
#5
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Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:
> On 12/18/2004 4:23 PM Speedy Jim wrote: >> The starter solenoid draws ~30 Amps at initial pull-in. >> That's one reason that VW never put a fuse in there. >> If you feel you *must* have OC protection, consider using a >> big automotive-style circuit breaker. > > > 30A? Well, that goes a long way toward explaining why the fuse popped! > Thanks, Jim! Where'd you find the spec? > Oh, I have my sources <g>, but I think John Henry has a section on the starter too: http://www.thebugshop.org/ Speedy Jim http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/ |
#6
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On 12/18/2004 5:30 PM Charles Fregeau wrote:
> "Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott" > et> wrote in message > ... > >>On 12/18/2004 4:23 PM Speedy Jim wrote: >> >> >>>Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote: >>> >>> >>>>Speedy Jim (or anyone with a spare starter sitting around): >>>> >>>>Does anyone know the typical current draw of starter motor Terminal 50? >>>>Or, lacking that, the typical DC resistance between Terminal 50 and the >>>>body of the starter (ground)? >>>> >>>>The Wonderbus has a 15A fuse inline with Terminal 50 on the starter. >>>>This is the terminal that the ignition switch applies +12 to when you >>>>want the starter to go 'round and 'round. When the ignition key just >>>>caused my aftermarket relay to "click" without accompanying starter >>>>action, I inspected the fuse and found it blown. Thus no +12 on Terminal >>>>50, thus no starter action. I popped in another fuse (a 30A one on hand) >>>>and the starter now operates. >>>> >>>>I reckon either 15 amps is too close to the typical current draw, or >>>>Something More Evil occurred to pop the fuse. >>>> >>> >>> The starter solenoid draws ~30 Amps at initial pull-in. >>> That's one reason that VW never put a fuse in there. >>> If you feel you *must* have OC protection, consider using a >>> big automotive-style circuit breaker. >> >>30A? Well, that goes a long way toward explaining why the fuse popped! >>Thanks, Jim! Where'd you find the spec? >> >>-- >>Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott >>71 Type 2: the Wonderbus >>84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)" >>KG6RCR > > > If you want over-current protection, you might see if you can get one of > those newfangled fusible links in the 30-50 amp range. Probably survive > better than a straight fuse. The fusible link off my battery is 12 years > old. Thanx, Chas. I don't feel any need for overcurrent protection in that line. The fuseholder came with the relay and I just sort of installed it. It's clearly not necessary. I'll stick a "penny" in the fuseholder or chop it out altogether the next time I'm under the Wonderbus. -- Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott 71 Type 2: the Wonderbus 84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)" KG6RCR ------------------------------------ Today's Deep Thought: There is no distinctly native American criminal class except Congress. -- Mark Twain ------------------------------------ |
#7
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"Charles Fregeau" > wrote in message
... > > If you want over-current protection, you might see if you can get one of > those newfangled fusible links in the 30-50 amp range. Probably survive > better than a straight fuse. The fusible link off my battery is 12 years > old. Aw heck! Just install a knife-switch on the dash. Okay, then just a robust industrial button. We don need no steekin fuse! |
#8
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Or you can try the old "add a relay" trick to lessen the load on your
switch. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver" Giggle Cream - it makes dessert *funny*! |
#9
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On 12/18/2004 5:31 PM Speedy Jim wrote:
> Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote: > >> On 12/18/2004 4:23 PM Speedy Jim wrote: > > >>> The starter solenoid draws ~30 Amps at initial pull-in. >>> That's one reason that VW never put a fuse in there. >>> If you feel you *must* have OC protection, consider using a >>> big automotive-style circuit breaker. >> >> >> >> 30A? Well, that goes a long way toward explaining why the fuse popped! >> Thanks, Jim! Where'd you find the spec? >> > Oh, I have my sources <g>, We have ways to make you talk! Everyone hold him down while I make him look at this picture of Michael Jackson naked! -- Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott 71 Type 2: the Wonderbus 84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)" KG6RCR |
#10
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Why depend on a damn wimpy fuse? If your car needs 100 amps, give it up!
The wires supplying it will let you know by turning red or setting something nearby on fire. No bright red wires, no fire, no problem! jjs wrote: > "Charles Fregeau" > wrote in message > ... > >>If you want over-current protection, you might see if you can get one of >>those newfangled fusible links in the 30-50 amp range. Probably survive >>better than a straight fuse. The fusible link off my battery is 12 years >>old. > > > Aw heck! Just install a knife-switch on the dash. Okay, then just a robust > industrial button. We don need no steekin fuse! > > |
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