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'96 T&C front AC blower not working properly
A few months ago, I wrote about a problem I had with the front AC/Heater
blower on my '96 LXi. I never actually fixed it, just ran a hot wire to the blower motor and used it that way. The dealer had told me that it needed a relay but changed that and did nothing. (Very hard to GET to the relay, by the way!) I had gotten some advice from one of the NG member concerning a new resistor block and some wiring that goes with it. When I went to the dealer to get the block $15, I was told I didn't need the wiring, since the block had not changed. When I got home, noticed that the plug that goes into the block seemed discolored (from heat, I thot) at the tan/white wire. I cleaned the connectors, then checked for current at the plug. I had the ignition turned on and tried EVERY setting on the HVAC panel. There was NOTHING from ANY of the wires, no matter which one I checked. I changed the motor (it had begun to rattle from running on high all the time) and found that it would run WITHOUT the resistor block connected to anything...in other words, I removed the plug that plugs into the resistor and the motor still ran, but only on high. And when I plugged it in, it still ran but only on high. Obviously, there is a problem SOMEWHERE but since I've changed the relay, resistor block and motor, what else could it be? Looking at the schematic on page 8W-42-5 of the BIIIG manual, it appears that the relay must be working otherwise the motor wouldn't run at all. (I've disconnected the wire I ran directly to the motor.) But why doesn't it run on any other speed? Is it the HVAC panel? SOMETHING else? As you can tell, I'm mystified and winter is coming on...don't want to have to replace anything when it's below zero. HELP!!! tia... John |
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#2
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'96 T&C front AC blower not working properly
"Fieronut" > wrote in message lkaboutautos.com... > A few months ago, I wrote about a problem I had with the front AC/Heater > blower on my '96 LXi. I never actually fixed it, just ran a hot wire to > the blower motor and used it that way. The dealer had told me that it > needed a relay but changed that and did nothing. (Very hard to GET to the > relay, by the way!) I had gotten some advice from one of the NG member > concerning a new resistor block and some wiring that goes with it. When I > went to the dealer to get the block $15, I was told I didn't need the > wiring, since the block had not changed. When I got home, noticed that > the plug that goes into the block seemed discolored (from heat, I thot) at > the tan/white wire. I cleaned the connectors, then checked for current at > the plug. I had the ignition turned on and tried EVERY setting on the > HVAC panel. There was NOTHING from ANY of the wires, no matter which one > I checked. I changed the motor (it had begun to rattle from running on > high all the time) and found that it would run WITHOUT the resistor block > connected to anything...in other words, I removed the plug that plugs into > the resistor and the motor still ran, but only on high. And when I plugged > it in, it still ran but only on high. Obviously, there is a problem > SOMEWHERE but since I've changed the relay, resistor block and motor, what > else could it be? Looking at the schematic on page 8W-42-5 of the BIIIG > manual, it appears that the relay must be working otherwise the motor > wouldn't run at all. (I've disconnected the wire I ran directly to the > motor.) But why doesn't it run on any other speed? Is it the HVAC panel? > SOMETHING else? As you can tell, I'm mystified and winter is coming > on...don't want to have to replace anything when it's below zero. HELP!!! > tia... > > John > Hmm, confusing... If you have 12 volts at the green wire at the blower motor everyhting is good to that point, test out the black wire coming out of the blower motor key on (ground) and see if the test lite is lites. If it does, you are missing a ground, more then likely that ground is open in the control head. Glenn Beasley Chrysler Tech |
#3
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'96 T&C front AC blower not working properly
and thru the resistor block
he did state there were discolored maxpower wrote: > "Fieronut" > wrote in message > lkaboutautos.com... > > A few months ago, I wrote about a problem I had with the front AC/Heater > > blower on my '96 LXi. I never actually fixed it, just ran a hot wire to > > the blower motor and used it that way. The dealer had told me that it > > needed a relay but changed that and did nothing. (Very hard to GET to the > > relay, by the way!) I had gotten some advice from one of the NG member > > concerning a new resistor block and some wiring that goes with it. When I > > went to the dealer to get the block $15, I was told I didn't need the > > wiring, since the block had not changed. When I got home, noticed that > > the plug that goes into the block seemed discolored (from heat, I thot) at > > the tan/white wire. I cleaned the connectors, then checked for current at > > the plug. I had the ignition turned on and tried EVERY setting on the > > HVAC panel. There was NOTHING from ANY of the wires, no matter which one > > I checked. I changed the motor (it had begun to rattle from running on > > high all the time) and found that it would run WITHOUT the resistor block > > connected to anything...in other words, I removed the plug that plugs into > > the resistor and the motor still ran, but only on high. And when I > plugged > > it in, it still ran but only on high. Obviously, there is a problem > > SOMEWHERE but since I've changed the relay, resistor block and motor, what > > else could it be? Looking at the schematic on page 8W-42-5 of the BIIIG > > manual, it appears that the relay must be working otherwise the motor > > wouldn't run at all. (I've disconnected the wire I ran directly to the > > motor.) But why doesn't it run on any other speed? Is it the HVAC panel? > > SOMETHING else? As you can tell, I'm mystified and winter is coming > > on...don't want to have to replace anything when it's below zero. HELP!!! > > tia... > > > > John > > > Hmm, confusing... If you have 12 volts at the green wire at the blower motor > everyhting is good to that point, test out the black wire coming out of the > blower motor key on (ground) and see if the test lite is lites. If it does, > you are missing a ground, more then likely that ground is open in the > control head. > > Glenn Beasley > Chrysler Tech |
#4
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'96 T&C front AC blower not working properly
Fieronut wrote: > A few months ago, I wrote about a problem I had with the front AC/Heater > blower on my '96 LXi. I never actually fixed it, just ran a hot wire to > the blower motor and used it that way. The dealer had told me that it > needed a relay but changed that and did nothing. (Very hard to GET to the > relay, by the way!) I had gotten some advice from one of the NG member > concerning a new resistor block and some wiring that goes with it. When I > went to the dealer to get the block $15, I was told I didn't need the > wiring, since the block had not changed. When I got home, noticed that > the plug that goes into the block seemed discolored (from heat, I thot) at > the tan/white wire. I cleaned the connectors, then checked for current at > the plug. I had the ignition turned on and tried EVERY setting on the > HVAC panel. There was NOTHING from ANY of the wires, no matter which one > I checked. I changed the motor (it had begun to rattle from running on > high all the time) and found that it would run WITHOUT the resistor block > connected to anything...in other words, I removed the plug that plugs into > the resistor and the motor still ran, but only on high. And when I plugged > it in, it still ran but only on high. Obviously, there is a problem > SOMEWHERE but since I've changed the relay, resistor block and motor, what > else could it be? Looking at the schematic on page 8W-42-5 of the BIIIG > manual, it appears that the relay must be working otherwise the motor > wouldn't run at all. (I've disconnected the wire I ran directly to the > motor.) But why doesn't it run on any other speed? Is it the HVAC panel? > SOMETHING else? As you can tell, I'm mystified and winter is coming > on...don't want to have to replace anything when it's below zero. HELP!!! > tia... > > John Hi John... Can't offer much but a previous experience, but others here have been helpful to me as I make the change from a lifetime of GM to my first Chrysler, so... Had a Buick wagon, with GM's climate control (temp AND fan speed auto) Suddenly stopped running on high, either auto or manual. No good in 40 below weather for warming up unattended Turned out that the high speed was a totally separate feed, in fact an extra fuse (inline, in the engine compartment near the blower motor) Suspect that the highest speed drew more current than the wiring to the speed control switch could handle. Perhaps Chrysler does the same, and you're suffering the reverse of what I did? (no 12v through the "normal" channel?) Take care. Ken |
#5
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'96 T&C front AC blower not working properly
>Hmm, confusing... If you have 12 volts at the green wire at the blower
motor everyhting is good to that point, test out the black wire coming out of the blower motor key on (ground) and see if the test lite is lites. If it does, you are missing a ground, more then likely that ground is open in the control head. > > Glenn Beasley > Chrysler Tech Sorry, I have no idea what a "control head" is. And I THINK I have power to the blue (not green) wire at the motor because the motor runs. As to a ground, if the motor runs, I would think the black wire (the black wire is the only wire beside the blue one, going to the motor) must be grounded to SOMETHING....the problem is that the motor runs even when the resistor block is disconnected...which seems to mean that it is getting juice from somewhere OTHER than the resistor. Does that mean it is NOT getting power thru the HVAC panel but directly from the igntion switch? As I said, I tested EVERY wire going to the resistor block and NONE of them had any power going to them. (I tested them by turning on the ignition and checking EVERY wire in the connector with a volt meter, in EVERY speed at the HVAC panel) Doesn't that mean that SOMEWHERE there is an open? Maybe in the HVAC panel or before it? I'm really mystified. Again, tia. John |
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