Ford Explorer. Power Windows, Erratic or inoperative

Rear windows work . Driver window only makes a loud "CLUNK' , no motion
up or down. Passenger window all the way down, no power, could not
manually raise. Removed the passenger side panel, found no 12 volt
supply to the switch. Fuses OK, power to the locks and rear windows.
Tried to manually raise the glass but could not. Did not really expect
to do so. Then tried to remove the motor and regulator from the door.
Drilled out the pop rivets. With the regulator now free, still can not
see how to remove the unit without high explosives. Then I really
screwed up. I removed the motor without securing the operating arms.
The spring, of course, tried to come out of the car. Lucky I had plenty
Band Aids. The questiion is, What the hell do I do now? Does any one
know the procedure for rewinding the spring when installing the motor.
Assuming I ever get the thing out of the door. The motor and gears
were, by the way, OK.

I have done this same job on my Blazer without a hitch. Ford really has
a better idea.

Bob

I have done this on a old Ford P/U and the window regulator was riveted
in. I found it easier to just drill out the rivets and replace the
entire reulator. It sounds to me like that is what you should do.

Bob wrote:
> Rear windows work . Driver window only makes a loud "CLUNK' , no motion
> up or down. Passenger window all the way down, no power, could not
> manually raise. Removed the passenger side panel, found no 12 volt
> supply to the switch. Fuses OK, power to the locks and rear windows.
> Tried to manually raise the glass but could not. Did not really expect
> to do so. Then tried to remove the motor and regulator from the door.
> Drilled out the pop rivets. With the regulator now free, still can not
> see how to remove the unit without high explosives. Then I really
> screwed up. I removed the motor without securing the operating arms.
> The spring, of course, tried to come out of the car. Lucky I had plenty
> Band Aids. The questiion is, What the hell do I do now? Does any one
> know the procedure for rewinding the spring when installing the motor.
> Assuming I ever get the thing out of the door. The motor and gears
> were, by the way, OK.
>
> I have done this same job on my Blazer without a hitch. Ford really has
> a better idea.
>
> Bob

holmbrew wrote:
> I have done this on a old Ford P/U and the window regulator was riveted
> in. I found it easier to just drill out the rivets and replace the
> entire reulator. It sounds to me like that is what you should do.
>
> Bob wrote:
> > Rear windows work . Driver window only makes a loud "CLUNK' , no motion
> > up or down. Passenger window all the way down, no power, could not
> > manually raise. Removed the passenger side panel, found no 12 volt
> > supply to the switch. Fuses OK, power to the locks and rear windows.
> > Tried to manually raise the glass but could not. Did not really expect
> > to do so. Then tried to remove the motor and regulator from the door.
> > Drilled out the pop rivets. With the regulator now free, still can not
> > see how to remove the unit without high explosives. Then I really
> > screwed up. I removed the motor without securing the operating arms.
> > The spring, of course, tried to come out of the car. Lucky I had plenty
> > Band Aids. The questiion is, What the hell do I do now? Does any one
> > know the procedure for rewinding the spring when installing the motor.
> > Assuming I ever get the thing out of the door. The motor and gears
> > were, by the way, OK.
> >
> > I have done this same job on my Blazer without a hitch. Ford really has
> > a better idea.
> >
> > Bob

Thanks homebrew. I got the rivets out and the lower slide or guide is
out. That allowed the regulator to swing free and then I was able to
raise the glass and prop it up That was not a problem.. I just can't
see how to remove the regulator through that small hole and can't see
how to free the regulator arms from the glass which may be the real
problem. If I can get it off the upper track it may fold small enough
to remove. Of course I am half way through cataract surgery. Maybe it
will look differently with two good eyes. Thanks for your comments.


holmbrew wrote:
> I have done this on a old Ford P/U and the window regulator was riveted
> in. I found it easier to just drill out the rivets and replace the
> entire reulator. It sounds to me like that is what you should do.
>
> Bob wrote:
> > Rear windows work . Driver window only makes a loud "CLUNK' , no motion
> > up or down. Passenger window all the way down, no power, could not
> > manually raise. Removed the passenger side panel, found no 12 volt
> > supply to the switch. Fuses OK, power to the locks and rear windows.
> > Tried to manually raise the glass but could not. Did not really expect
> > to do so. Then tried to remove the motor and regulator from the door.
> > Drilled out the pop rivets. With the regulator now free, still can not
> > see how to remove the unit without high explosives. Then I really
> > screwed up. I removed the motor without securing the operating arms.
> > The spring, of course, tried to come out of the car. Lucky I had plenty
> > Band Aids. The questiion is, What the hell do I do now? Does any one
> > know the procedure for rewinding the spring when installing the motor.
> > Assuming I ever get the thing out of the door. The motor and gears
> > were, by the way, OK.
> >
> > I have done this same job on my Blazer without a hitch. Ford really has
> > a better idea.
> >
> > Bob

http://www.1aauto.com/1A/WindowRegul...n=&ovtac =CMP

The link above was posted by someone responding to my cries for help
on here and I appreciated it. Just seeing what my regulator looked
like help me know what I was dealing with when the regulator was still
in the door.

I just recently did mine on 94 explorer. It was a &*^^!!! to get the
regulator out but I did after removing the pop rivets and then sliding
everything out of so as to have the regulator loose to position for
removal and reinsertion through the small hole.


When I did mine a few weeks ago I asked if anyone wanted any pictures
and someone replied however I cannot find the reply asking for the
pics.
If you like I will put them on my website for a few weeks so you can
see what I was up against. Pictures are not the best in the world but
better than nothing.

Sam in Raleigh.
On 12 Oct 2006 10:56:53 -0700, "Bob" > wrote:

>Thanks homebrew. I got the rivets out and the lower slide or guide is
>out. That allowed the regulator to swing free and then I was able to
>raise the glass and prop it up That was not a problem.. I just can't
>see how to remove the regulator through that small hole and can't see
>how to free the regulator arms from the glass which may be the real
>problem. If I can get it off the upper track it may fold small enough
>to remove. Of course I am half way through cataract surgery. Maybe it
>will look differently with two good eyes. Thanks for your comments.
>
>
>holmbrew wrote:
>> I have done this on a old Ford P/U and the window regulator was riveted
>> in. I found it easier to just drill out the rivets and replace the
>> entire reulator. It sounds to me like that is what you should do.
>>
>> Bob wrote:
>> > Rear windows work . Driver window only makes a loud "CLUNK' , no motion
>> > up or down. Passenger window all the way down, no power, could not
>> > manually raise. Removed the passenger side panel, found no 12 volt
>> > supply to the switch. Fuses OK, power to the locks and rear windows.
>> > Tried to manually raise the glass but could not. Did not really expect
>> > to do so. Then tried to remove the motor and regulator from the door.
>> > Drilled out the pop rivets. With the regulator now free, still can not
>> > see how to remove the unit without high explosives. Then I really
>> > screwed up. I removed the motor without securing the operating arms.
>> > The spring, of course, tried to come out of the car. Lucky I had plenty
>> > Band Aids. The questiion is, What the hell do I do now? Does any one
>> > know the procedure for rewinding the spring when installing the motor.
>> > Assuming I ever get the thing out of the door. The motor and gears
>> > were, by the way, OK.
>> >
>> > I have done this same job on my Blazer without a hitch. Ford really has
>> > a better idea.
>> >
>> > Bob

Hi Sam, Thanks for the info. I know what it all looks like, I have done
the ones in my blazer but just can not see how to get the regulator
detached from the glass. All the hardware is out and it's hanging from
the upper rail on the glass. As you well know, the access hole is too
small and ill placed. It's not as if Ford was concerned about the
integrity of the door. check out that piece of tubing welded across the
outer skin. Might slow down a bicycle. I would be interested in what
you found and what you did to correct your problem. In my case, the
window was all the way down, the motor would not run even when temp.
connected, directly, to 12 volts. After removing motor found it runs
and all gears are in excellent condition. Hate to replace it when I
don't know why. Had to be a mechanical bind in something.
Bob


Sam wrote:
> http://www.1aauto.com/1A/WindowRegul...n=&ovtac =CMP
>
> The link above was posted by someone responding to my cries for help
> on here and I appreciated it. Just seeing what my regulator looked
> like help me know what I was dealing with when the regulator was still
> in the door.
>
> I just recently did mine on 94 explorer. It was a &*^^!!! to get the
> regulator out but I did after removing the pop rivets and then sliding
> everything out of so as to have the regulator loose to position for
> removal and reinsertion through the small hole.
>
>
> When I did mine a few weeks ago I asked if anyone wanted any pictures
> and someone replied however I cannot find the reply asking for the
> pics.
> If you like I will put them on my website for a few weeks so you can
> see what I was up against. Pictures are not the best in the world but
> better than nothing.
>
> Sam in Raleigh.
> On 12 Oct 2006 10:56:53 -0700, "Bob" > wrote:
>
> >Thanks homebrew. I got the rivets out and the lower slide or guide is
> >out. That allowed the regulator to swing free and then I was able to
> >raise the glass and prop it up That was not a problem.. I just can't
> >see how to remove the regulator through that small hole and can't see
> >how to free the regulator arms from the glass which may be the real
> >problem. If I can get it off the upper track it may fold small enough
> >to remove. Of course I am half way through cataract surgery. Maybe it
> >will look differently with two good eyes. Thanks for your comments.
> >
> >
> >holmbrew wrote:
> >> I have done this on a old Ford P/U and the window regulator was riveted
> >> in. I found it easier to just drill out the rivets and replace the
> >> entire reulator. It sounds to me like that is what you should do.
> >>
> >> Bob wrote:
> >> > Rear windows work . Driver window only makes a loud "CLUNK' , no motion
> >> > up or down. Passenger window all the way down, no power, could not
> >> > manually raise. Removed the passenger side panel, found no 12 volt
> >> > supply to the switch. Fuses OK, power to the locks and rear windows.
> >> > Tried to manually raise the glass but could not. Did not really expect
> >> > to do so. Then tried to remove the motor and regulator from the door.
> >> > Drilled out the pop rivets. With the regulator now free, still can not
> >> > see how to remove the unit without high explosives. Then I really
> >> > screwed up. I removed the motor without securing the operating arms.
> >> > The spring, of course, tried to come out of the car. Lucky I had plenty
> >> > Band Aids. The questiion is, What the hell do I do now? Does any one
> >> > know the procedure for rewinding the spring when installing the motor.
> >> > Assuming I ever get the thing out of the door. The motor and gears
> >> > were, by the way, OK.
> >> >
> >> > I have done this same job on my Blazer without a hitch. Ford really has
> >> > a better idea.
> >> >
> >> > Bob