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flat towing instructions



 
 
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  #31  
Old January 30th 05, 09:23 PM
Jeff Strickland
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> wrote in message
oups.com...
I assure you the weight of the CJ is 4400 lbs. I took it to a scale
and had it weighed. (Actually it was 4650 but I plan on taking off the
hard doors for towing which should eliminate 250 lbs.) Among other
things it has 36" boggers, a 360 engine, a full roll cage, Dana 60s
front and rear, two layers of custom skid plates in addition to the
stock skid plate, custom bumpers, winch, and a variety of other heavy
stuff.


<Jeff>
Well, that stuff could easily add up. My CJ5 tips the scales at closer to
3200, and I couldn't imagine how a CJ7 could add 1200 pounds. You managed to
paint a picture that could weigh 1200 pounds.
</Jeff>


The tow vehicle is a 2wd 2002 Dodge Durango. Not sure if this
qualifies as the "Ford Expedit*ion or GM equivalent" suggested by Dean
or not.

The jeep rear axle is indeed a full floating with unlockable hubs. If
I understand what you all are saying, if I unlock all 4 hubs there
will be no lubrication issues.

<Jeff>
This is true. If you unlock all four hubs, the drivetrain will be at rest
while you are under way. You will not need to worry about where the tcase
and transmission levers are, nor will you need to stop and run the motor in
order to lubricate the tcase gears. For all the trans and tcase knows, you
are still parked in your driveway, and have not gone anywhere.
</Jeff>



Do I still need to stop every 200 miles
and let the engine idle to splash lubrication up on the bearings? I'm
a bit confused, because in one instance Jeff said I would need to
leave the front hubs locked in to lubricate... but once it was clearly
understood that I have full floating in the rear, the advice changed
to leave all 4 hubs unlocked. I don't understand why the rear
configuration would change the requirement to lock in the front hubs or
not? (Please bear with me if I sound ignorant... I have had some
lesser/stock jeeps and been offroad before but this is my first heavily
modified rig. I bought it as is built by someone else and am still
learning all the ins and outs... I only know enough to be dangerous
but am trying to learn)

<Jeff>
IF you could NOT unlock the rear hubs, then you would EITHER need to stop
every 200 miles to run the engine so you could lubricate the gears and
bearings in the tcase, or lock the front hubs so the tcase itself spun the
whole time, and lubricated the gears and bearings, or remove the rear
driveshaft and keep the front hubs unlocked, in which case there is no worry
about lubrication.

You have the ability the ability to unlock the rear hubs - which most of us
do not have - and this removes all of the lubrication issues. Unlock the
rear and front hubs, and the tires will not cause the drive train to spin,
and the lubrication issues for the tcase will go away.
</Jeff>



A thought: Would a potential good solution be a tow dolly? This could
get the CJ's front wheels up off the road and eliminate the steering
problem, yet would only add a couple hundred pounds of weight instead
of a thousand or more.


<Jeff>
Yes, the dolly would ease some of the towing instability. In this instance,
also unlock the rear hubs so the lubrication issues also are not present.



What we are trying to mitigate is the lubrication issues that exist in the
tcase. As most of us with the D300 flat tow, the tires turning cause the
rear drive shaft to turn. If we leave the tcase in N and the trans in 1st,
R, or P (if available), the the motion in the drive train stops at the rear
tcase output shaft. The gears and bearing that supports the rear drive shaft
do not get lubricated while towing, but are spinning around and around. They
are above the oil line, so they starve for oil. If the front hubs are locked
on the D300, then the front drive shaft is below the oil line, so it will
churn the oil up, and throw oil up onto the rear output shaft, gears, and
bearing. In your particular case, YOU can simply unlock the rear hubs. The
affect of this is exactly the same as taking the rear drive shaft off, the
drive train remains completely at rest when you flat tow.

So, YOU - not anybody esle that hasn't got Full Floating hubs on the rear
axle - can unlock all four hubs and the only motion whild towing will be the
tires on the ground, and occasionally the steering mechanism as you go
around corners. All other D300 owners can either remove the rear drive
shaft, leave the front hubs locked, or stop every so often and lubricate the
rear output shaft. You simply unlock the rear hubs, and this is the same as
removing the rear driveshaft. We have to consider where the tcase and
transmission levers are positioned, YOU don't have to care about this.

I hope I have helped you understand ...






Jeff Strickland wrote:
> YOU TOLD US IN ANOTHER POST THAT YOUR CJ HAS FULL FLOATING REAR HUBS.

This
> is a critical bit of information AND IT CHANGES THE ENTIRE

DISCUSSION.
>
> Full Floaters allow flat towing, indeed they are a primary reason

people
> even install them. Well, maybe not primary reason, but CERTAINLY this

is an
> added benefit.
>
> All you need do is unlock all four hubs, and you are ready to go. The

tires
> will be disconnected at the hub from the entire rest of the drive

train,
> COMPLETELY REMOVING the requirement to set the levers on the

transmission
> and transfer case to any specific position. With the hubs unlocked on

the
> rear axle, the drivetrain will remain at rest while you are towing

your CJ.
>
> Not only do Full Floaters let you flat tow, but if you manage to

break an
> axle shaft, you can disconnect the affected tire and still drive your

Jeep.
> This is the primary reason why people install them.
>
> You bought a Bonus, you can flat tow without any worries.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > wrote in message
> oups.com...
> >I just got a tow vehicle which is only rated to tow 4800 lbs.... so

it
> > can tow my CJ, but not the CJ + trailer.
> >
> > Is there anything special I need to know before flat towing? I'm
> > guessing I should put the transfer case and transmission in

neutral,
> > and lock in the hubs. Anything else I should do?
> >


Ads
  #32  
Old January 30th 05, 09:29 PM
Jeff Strickland
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I explained in detail how your lubrication issues with Full Floaters are
eliminated. But, I think it is unwise to pull a 4400 pound Jeep with a
Durango. I guess if the manufacturer says you can do it, then maybe you can.
But I think you will have stability issues with those 36" boggers trying to
control your life.

I don't think lubrication of the tcase is a problem, but I think flat towing
is something for which you need a larger tow vehicle. At the VERY least I
would try a few miles in my own area before I ventured out on a long trip
somewhere. I would practice slamming on the brakes somewhere where only my
own stuff was at risk.

  #33  
Old January 30th 05, 09:56 PM
Lee Ayrton
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Default


But but but... I see a lot of out-of-state half-million dollar "camper"
coaches flat-towing a variety of cars, including Cherokees. How does the
laws you mention below apply to them?


On Sat, 29 Jan 2005, it was written:

> The rules have changed a lot in the last few years, and not all states
> and providences are the same. In general, however, anything you tow
> that weighs more than 1,500 lbs. total needs auxiliary brakes.
> Doesn't matter if you flat tow or put it on a trailer. Check the
> requirement in the state(s) where you plan to tow.
>
> Dick
>
>
> On Sat, 29 Jan 2005 09:11:43 -0500, "Matt Macchiarolo"
> > wrote:
>
>>
>> > wrote in message
>> oups.com...
>>
>> RoyJ - Not sure I follow your logic. The CJ weighs about 4400 lbs. A
>> trailer would add at least 1000 lbs (probably closer to 2000,) so I'd
>> be way over my rated 4800lb towing capacity. Why would an overweight
>> trailer be any safer/more stable than an acceptably weighted CJ?
>>
>> A trailer would have brakes. Flat towing does not.

>
>


--
"I defer to your plainly more vivid memories of topless women with
whips....r"
R. H. Draney recalls AFU in the Good Old Days.

  #34  
Old January 30th 05, 10:19 PM
L.W.(ßill) Hughes III
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

They're not a trailer.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
http://www.billhughes.com/

Lee Aryan wrote:
>
> But but but... I see a lot of out-of-state half-million dollar "camper"
> coaches flat-towing a variety of cars, including Cherokees. How does the
> laws you mention below apply to them?

  #35  
Old January 30th 05, 11:14 PM
Robert Bills
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>I just got a tow vehicle which is only rated to tow 4800 lbs.... so it
>> can tow my CJ, but not the CJ + trailer.


You are correct that you will be severely overloaded with a CJ on a trailer.

Although some may scoff at your 4400 lb weight estimate for the CJ, you are not
far off for a CJ with big tires, winch, roll cage, body armor, spare parts and
gear. Mine weighs 4200 lbs loaded, and I have friends whose CJs weigh 4400
loaded.

Before you say "Hey, my 4400 lb CJ is under my 4800 lb tow limit so no
problemo," you need to add in some other things, like the weight of passengers
and gear in your tow vehicle. That weight must be subtracted from your tow
rating because the factory tow ratings assume driver only and no gear. Thus,
you will be close to maxed out flat towing and simply don't have the tow
capacity to add in 1600 lbs for a typical 16' car hauler trailer. You really
need something like a Suburban or a 3/4 ton truck to have adequate capacity for
a jeep on a car hauler trailer. (Some say a 1/2 ton truck is plenty, but I
think those people are just plain wrong and/or in a state of denial.)

Since you have floating rear hubs, my suggestion would be to unlock all hubs,
make sure your steering is unlocked, then flat tow away. One caution though -
you will be doubling the weight that your tow vehicle must stop. Be sure the
tires and brakes on your tow vehicle are in absolutely perfect condition, keep
your speed down, maintain extra distance between you and the vehicle in front,
downshift on downgrades to use compression braking as much as possible and to
prevent your tow vehicle brakes from cooking, and be constantly vigilant for
the unexpected. The last thing you want to do is "experiment" with your
braking capacity in a panic situation.

That being said, I flat tow my CJ behind my F250 all the time. Never had a
problem.


Robert Bills
KG6LMV
Orange County CA

'83 CJ-7
'46 Bantam BT3C
'87 Ford F250 4x4 Diesel
http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/jeep/...p-l/billsr.htm

  #36  
Old January 30th 05, 11:49 PM
Lee Ayrton
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default


That's not what the previous poster was claiming. Vis:

On Sat, 29 Jan 2005, it was written:
> The rules have changed a lot in the last few years, and not all states
> and providences are the same. In general, however, anything you tow
> that weighs more than 1,500 lbs. total needs auxiliary brakes.
> Doesn't matter if you flat tow or put it on a trailer. Check the
> requirement in the state(s) where you plan to tow.


"Doesn't matter if you flat tow" was the part I was responding to.


On Sun, 30 Jan 2005, L.W.([iso-8859-1] Bill) Hughes III wrote:

> They're not a trailer.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> http://www.billhughes.com/
>
> Lee Aryan wrote:
>>
>> But but but... I see a lot of out-of-state half-million dollar "camper"
>> coaches flat-towing a variety of cars, including Cherokees. How does the
>> laws you mention below apply to them?

>


--
"I defer to your plainly more vivid memories of topless women with
whips....r"
R. H. Draney recalls AFU in the Good Old Days.

  #37  
Old January 31st 05, 06:35 PM
MikeinIN
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default



My tow vehicle is a G3500 (1ton chassis) Long Wheel Base Express window van.
The engine is the 5.7L with HD transmission and 3.73 rearend. The curb
weight is around 6300 lbs.

When I pull, I generally have 4 people plus camping gear, loaded coolers,
food, roof racks, canoes, kayaks, paddling gear, etc. that probably gets the
gross weight up around 7500 lbs or more.

I now pull a Jeep Cherokee 4WD. Prior to the Cherokee, I was pulling a
Grand Cherokee. I have had both through mountains including the Rockies.

The roughly 1000lbs difference in between the Cherokee and heavier Grand
Cherokee is an IMMENSE difference. The Grand Cherokee weight was just over
half the gross weight of the Van. Stopping was an issue and brake wear was
rapid. With the lighter Cherokee, I still have to maintain an increased
safety distance for braking. The amount of influence of the towed vehicle
on the van is much less.

In case you wondered, the towing hardware is a RoadMaster stainless steel
set up that stays directly attached to the van receiver and remains with the
van when disconnected. This tow bar articulates with what is essentially a
HD double U-joint affair.

Weight and wheelbase matter!

- MikeinIN

(I have my eye on an Unlimited Rubicon. It should tow no worse than the
Grand Cherokee.)





"Robert Bills" > wrote in message
...
> >I just got a tow vehicle which is only rated to tow 4800 lbs.... so it
> >> can tow my CJ, but not the CJ + trailer.

>
> You are correct that you will be severely overloaded with a CJ on a

trailer.
>
> Although some may scoff at your 4400 lb weight estimate for the CJ, you

are not
> far off for a CJ with big tires, winch, roll cage, body armor, spare parts

and
> gear. Mine weighs 4200 lbs loaded, and I have friends whose CJs weigh

4400
> loaded.
>
> Before you say "Hey, my 4400 lb CJ is under my 4800 lb tow limit so no
> problemo," you need to add in some other things, like the weight of

passengers
> and gear in your tow vehicle. That weight must be subtracted from your

tow
> rating because the factory tow ratings assume driver only and no gear.

Thus,
> you will be close to maxed out flat towing and simply don't have the tow
> capacity to add in 1600 lbs for a typical 16' car hauler trailer. You

really
> need something like a Suburban or a 3/4 ton truck to have adequate

capacity for
> a jeep on a car hauler trailer. (Some say a 1/2 ton truck is plenty, but

I
> think those people are just plain wrong and/or in a state of denial.)
>
> Since you have floating rear hubs, my suggestion would be to unlock all

hubs,
> make sure your steering is unlocked, then flat tow away. One caution

though -
> you will be doubling the weight that your tow vehicle must stop. Be sure

the
> tires and brakes on your tow vehicle are in absolutely perfect condition,

keep
> your speed down, maintain extra distance between you and the vehicle in

front,
> downshift on downgrades to use compression braking as much as possible and

to
> prevent your tow vehicle brakes from cooking, and be constantly vigilant

for
> the unexpected. The last thing you want to do is "experiment" with your
> braking capacity in a panic situation.
>
> That being said, I flat tow my CJ behind my F250 all the time. Never had

a
> problem.
>
>
> Robert Bills
> KG6LMV
> Orange County CA
>
> '83 CJ-7
> '46 Bantam BT3C
> '87 Ford F250 4x4 Diesel
> http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/jeep/...p-l/billsr.htm
>



  #38  
Old February 2nd 05, 02:36 AM
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I am not trying to turn a deaf ear to the advice I have received here,
however selling the Durango and getting a different tow vehicle is not
an option. I bought the Durango *6 days ago* for the express purpose
of towing the CJ. I did so after taking the CJ to a scale to be
weighed and learning that it weighed 4400 lbs, reading up about the
various mid size SUVs on the market, and specifically selecting one
with a tow capacity above 4400 lbs. (I turned down a good deal on a
Nissan Xterra, a vehicle which I would otherwise have preferred, for
that reason.) I am now in a 5 year finance contract on the Durango, so
for my towing needs, the Durango it will be.

I guess I will just have to unlock my hubs, drive slow and cautiously,
and hope for the best. I live in flat, mild-climate east texas,
(which is why I don't need to bring the doors with me when wheeling,)
so most of the time the driving shouldn't be terribly treacherous,
although I am planning a trip to Moab for the fall so I'll just have to
cross my fingers for that.

Two follow-up questions:

1. I have the optional 5.9L engine in the Durango. According to the
owner's manual, this engine configuration would actually permit me to
tow up to 7,150 lbs, *IF* I had the higher 3.93 axle ratio, which I
do not. So one possible cheaper option is to simply upgrade the
Durango axle. Am I correct in thinking, however, that the axle ratio
would not have any meaningful impact on the handling/steering concerns
that this group has voiced, and that the only reason it should make a
difference from the perspective of the owner's manual is that it would
reduce the burden on the Durango's auto tranny? (And, since I'll
still only be towing 4400 lbs, upgrading the axle really wouldn't get
me a whole lot?)

2. Would it mediate any of the flat tow steering/hanfling issues if I
towed the jeep backwards (rear axle first)?

  #39  
Old February 2nd 05, 02:21 PM
wkearney99
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

> I am not trying to turn a deaf ear to the advice I have received here,
> however selling the Durango and getting a different tow vehicle is not
> an option. I bought the Durango *6 days ago* for the express purpose
> of towing the CJ. I did so after taking the CJ to a scale to be
> weighed and learning that it weighed 4400 lbs, reading up about the
> various mid size SUVs on the market, and specifically selecting one
> with a tow capacity above 4400 lbs. (I turned down a good deal on a
> Nissan Xterra, a vehicle which I would otherwise have preferred, for
> that reason.)


Then perhaps this thread will help the next person thinking about buying
something to tow their Jeep. It's just not an ideal vehicle for towing
something that heavy with those sorts of tires on it.

  #40  
Old February 2nd 05, 05:57 PM
Robert Bills
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Posts: n/a
Default

> I am not trying to turn a deaf ear to the advice I have received here,
>> however selling the Durango and getting a different tow vehicle is not
>> an option.


If only you had asked about the Durango's "real world" capability of towing a
CJ before you bought one. It might not have changed your decision, but you
would have had the benefit of other people's experience.

I once considered the Durango as a potential tow rig, but decided against it
because it was marginally capable of flat towing a loaded, trail ready jeep and
severely overloaded and underpowered when towing a loaded jeep on a trailer. I
ended up purchasing a "used but not abused" Ford 3/4 ton diesel pickup with
camper AND a new car for commuting/family use for less than the cost of a
Durango. (Why? Because often one "compromise" vehicle isn't any less
expensive to own and operate than two "purpose" vehicles.)

I'm sure you will be happy with your Durango, but understand it's limitations
and flat tow very, very carefully. You may want to add an auxilliary
transmission cooler and invest in good aftermarket coolant and transmission
temperature gauges because the extra heat generated by towing the additional
load will drastically shorten the life of your transmission fluid and a cooked
tranny is an expensive repair. Also, consider a beefier rear anti-sway bar for
more stable handling.

Good luck.


Robert Bills
KG6LMV
Orange County CA

'83 CJ-7
'46 Bantam BT3C
'87 Ford F250 4x4 Diesel
http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/jeep/...p-l/billsr.htm

 




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