A Cars forum. AutoBanter

If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Go Back   Home » AutoBanter forum » Auto makers » Mazda
Site Map Home Register Authors List Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Web Partners

1994 Mazda 626 4CYL Water Pump Replacement



 
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old November 12th 04, 01:35 PM
Danish
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default 1994 Mazda 626 4CYL Water Pump Replacement

Hi Guys

I know this is a Miata forum but its also the only ram. forum for
mazda. I'd just like to know what is involved in replacing the
waterpump on the above car?

I'd like to do it myself and save money on labor if its not too tricky
and I can do it with the typical do-it-yourselfer tools.

What are the steps involved?

Thanks,

Danish
Ads
  #2  
Old November 12th 04, 05:01 PM
KWS
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I think a good number of the posters here have some experience doing various
levels of automobile maintenance. So when you read about someone replacing
this or that, it probably should not be considered a "professional"
statement, but most of these folks have turned a wrench or two.

Mazda, like other vendors, uses twin cam engines where the cams are driven
by a timing belt. The timing belt spins a couple of other things besides the
cams, one of those is the water pump. That's why you will often see timing
belt changes accompanied by water pump replacement. Conversely, if you are
going to change the water pump, you should consider changing out the timing
belt at the same time, unless it is reasonably new (which, if it is,
suggests that the water pump should have been changed at the same time).
Other replacement components are the tensioner and idler pulley.

If, in reading this so far, you haven't a clue as to what I am saying, then
you should consider a different level of involvement vs. the one you
described. My suggestion would be to enlist the help of a automotively
minded friend who can assist and guide you through the steps to get this
done while teaching you the fundamentals of auto repair. A decent manual is
typically required, but there are some details that you will have to figure
out for yourself, especially if you rely on something like a Haynes.

In essence, it is merely a series of steps that must be taken in order to
accomplish the job. It is fair to warn you that these steps require a
certain level of knowledge and skill. It's not at all rocket science, but
can be daunting for a beginner. We all have to begin somewhere, however.

I do stuff like this because, as you point out, it saves money. But the
other reason, probably more compelling for me, is that I simply don't trust
the rank and file auto mechanics out there to do the job correctly. If I do
it, I know it will be done right; that's worth something to me. If you have
a mechanic you can trust (and there are certainly good ones to be found),
then it's a matter of money and the inconvenience of drop off, pick up,
rental car, etc.

Ken

"Danish" > wrote in message
om...
> Hi Guys
>
> I know this is a Miata forum but its also the only ram. forum for
> mazda. I'd just like to know what is involved in replacing the
> waterpump on the above car?
>
> I'd like to do it myself and save money on labor if its not too tricky
> and I can do it with the typical do-it-yourselfer tools.
>
> What are the steps involved?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Danish



  #3  
Old November 13th 04, 06:49 PM
Danish
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Thanks for the posting.......i've understood everything you've said in
your post. Can you give me a brief description of whats needs to be
done? Will the block have to be lifted?

"KWS" > wrote in message news:<t75ld.498580$mD.182179@attbi_s02>...
> I think a good number of the posters here have some experience doing various
> levels of automobile maintenance. So when you read about someone replacing
> this or that, it probably should not be considered a "professional"
> statement, but most of these folks have turned a wrench or two.
>
> Mazda, like other vendors, uses twin cam engines where the cams are driven
> by a timing belt. The timing belt spins a couple of other things besides the
> cams, one of those is the water pump. That's why you will often see timing
> belt changes accompanied by water pump replacement. Conversely, if you are
> going to change the water pump, you should consider changing out the timing
> belt at the same time, unless it is reasonably new (which, if it is,
> suggests that the water pump should have been changed at the same time).
> Other replacement components are the tensioner and idler pulley.
>
> If, in reading this so far, you haven't a clue as to what I am saying, then
> you should consider a different level of involvement vs. the one you
> described. My suggestion would be to enlist the help of a automotively
> minded friend who can assist and guide you through the steps to get this
> done while teaching you the fundamentals of auto repair. A decent manual is
> typically required, but there are some details that you will have to figure
> out for yourself, especially if you rely on something like a Haynes.
>
> In essence, it is merely a series of steps that must be taken in order to
> accomplish the job. It is fair to warn you that these steps require a
> certain level of knowledge and skill. It's not at all rocket science, but
> can be daunting for a beginner. We all have to begin somewhere, however.
>
> I do stuff like this because, as you point out, it saves money. But the
> other reason, probably more compelling for me, is that I simply don't trust
> the rank and file auto mechanics out there to do the job correctly. If I do
> it, I know it will be done right; that's worth something to me. If you have
> a mechanic you can trust (and there are certainly good ones to be found),
> then it's a matter of money and the inconvenience of drop off, pick up,
> rental car, etc.
>
> Ken
>
> "Danish" > wrote in message
> om...
> > Hi Guys
> >
> > I know this is a Miata forum but its also the only ram. forum for
> > mazda. I'd just like to know what is involved in replacing the
> > waterpump on the above car?
> >
> > I'd like to do it myself and save money on labor if its not too tricky
> > and I can do it with the typical do-it-yourselfer tools.
> >
> > What are the steps involved?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Danish

  #4  
Old November 13th 04, 08:59 PM
KWS
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

OK. Briefly:

I can't speak for your car, but I'll talk about the 1997 Protégé I did
earlier in the year.

I used a Chilton manual that was generally helpful, but attempts to be all
things to all models and can be confusing. You have to read it carefully
and, even then, there will still be some surprises.

First step was to drain the coolant. Then, jack up the car, remove the
passenger (USA) side tire land the chassis on a jack stand. This gives
access to the front of the (transverse) engine. On the Protégé, it was also
helpful to remove the headlight assembly and other plastic bits for access
reasons as well.

Next came the removal of accessory belts (alternator, etc) and the water
pump pulley. A hint here is to loosen the water pump pulley bolts before
removing the belt.

Once the belts and pulley were removed, you have access to the timing belt
covers on the front of the engine.

On the Mazdas I have done, the cam cover (valve cover) has to come off to
access the cam pulley (or pulleys...depending on the design). This is a good
time to replace the spark plugs, spark plug wires and the cover gasket. Note
that Mazda requires a blob of RTV on certain areas when installing the new
gasket. I also suggest stuffing rags into the spark plug holes so nothing
falls in there while you are doing this work.

Remove the belt covers and, using an appropriate socket, turn the crankshaft
until the crank pulley mark and timing marks are aligned per the manual
instructions. This is, of course, a lot easier with the plugs removed.

Mark the old belt, crank and cam pulley(s) with indelible marker at
reference points on the timing belt teeth and pulley. This is important as
you will transfer these marks to the new belt and re-install the new belt
exactly to these marks.

Loosen the tensioner pulley, remove the tensioner spring, push the pulley
out of the way and temporarily lock it in place. Depending on the design,
you may want to remove the pulley if it is associated with the water pump
assembly. It may help for easier removal of the belt. Depending on the
design of the engine, you may have to remove the crank pulley. If you do, it
is helpful to know if there is any specific key orientation and the correct
mounting torque when re-installing the pulley. On the Protégé, I had to put
a wood block under the engine to support it while unbolting the top engine
mount (to allow removal and replacement of the timing belt). The Chilton
manual did clearly state that this was required for another engine but
failed to do so for mine. It wasn't such a big deal, but highlights that
these enthusiast manuals can skimp on details.

Remove the belt and, when convenient, carefully transfer the marks on the
belt to the new one. Remove and replace the water pump using appropriate
gaskets and mounting torque. Put any idler pulley, tensioner spring and
tensioner pulley back on the engine block, install the new belt and don't
forget to rebolt the engine mount. Before setting the tensioner, turn the
crank pulley two revolutions and ensure the timing marks on the crank and
cam(s) align properly. Note that the marks you put on the belt will no
longer align. This is OK. There is a point to which you set the crankshaft
before letting the tensioner spring tighten; the manual probably states
this. On the Mazda engines I did, it was about 5/6 of the second rotation,
before TDC of the #1 cylinder.

Clamp down the tensioner pulley to the specified torque, put all the covers,
belts, hoses, sparkplugs, wheels, etc back on. Put in the appropriate
amount of coolant, check everything one more time and fire it up.

As you requested, Danish, this is the Reader's Digest version of the job. I
suggest you need a bit more than this general information to do this
properly and, of course, any outcome good or not so good is up to you. Good
luck; let us know how you made out.

Ken









"Danish" > wrote in message
om...
> Thanks for the posting.......i've understood everything you've said in
> your post. Can you give me a brief description of whats needs to be
> done? Will the block have to be lifted?
>
> "KWS" > wrote in message

news:<t75ld.498580$mD.182179@attbi_s02>...
> > I think a good number of the posters here have some experience doing

various
> > levels of automobile maintenance. So when you read about someone

replacing
> > this or that, it probably should not be considered a "professional"
> > statement, but most of these folks have turned a wrench or two.
> >
> > Mazda, like other vendors, uses twin cam engines where the cams are

driven
> > by a timing belt. The timing belt spins a couple of other things besides

the
> > cams, one of those is the water pump. That's why you will often see

timing
> > belt changes accompanied by water pump replacement. Conversely, if you

are
> > going to change the water pump, you should consider changing out the

timing
> > belt at the same time, unless it is reasonably new (which, if it is,
> > suggests that the water pump should have been changed at the same time).
> > Other replacement components are the tensioner and idler pulley.
> >
> > If, in reading this so far, you haven't a clue as to what I am saying,

then
> > you should consider a different level of involvement vs. the one you
> > described. My suggestion would be to enlist the help of a automotively
> > minded friend who can assist and guide you through the steps to get this
> > done while teaching you the fundamentals of auto repair. A decent manual

is
> > typically required, but there are some details that you will have to

figure
> > out for yourself, especially if you rely on something like a Haynes.
> >
> > In essence, it is merely a series of steps that must be taken in order

to
> > accomplish the job. It is fair to warn you that these steps require a
> > certain level of knowledge and skill. It's not at all rocket science,

but
> > can be daunting for a beginner. We all have to begin somewhere, however.
> >
> > I do stuff like this because, as you point out, it saves money. But the
> > other reason, probably more compelling for me, is that I simply don't

trust
> > the rank and file auto mechanics out there to do the job correctly. If I

do
> > it, I know it will be done right; that's worth something to me. If you

have
> > a mechanic you can trust (and there are certainly good ones to be

found),
> > then it's a matter of money and the inconvenience of drop off, pick up,
> > rental car, etc.
> >
> > Ken
> >
> > "Danish" > wrote in message
> > om...
> > > Hi Guys
> > >
> > > I know this is a Miata forum but its also the only ram. forum for
> > > mazda. I'd just like to know what is involved in replacing the
> > > waterpump on the above car?
> > >
> > > I'd like to do it myself and save money on labor if its not too tricky
> > > and I can do it with the typical do-it-yourselfer tools.
> > >
> > > What are the steps involved?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Danish



  #5  
Old November 14th 04, 12:40 AM
Leon van Dommelen
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

"KWS" > wrote:

>I can't speak for your car, but I'll talk about the 1997 Protégé I did
>earlier in the year.
>
>I used a Chilton manual that was generally helpful, but attempts to be all
>things to all models and can be confusing. You have to read it carefully
>and, even then, there will still be some surprises.


I think the main problem may be that cars are continuously changed
from one year to the next, and the manual publishers seem to have no
good way of tracking those changes. Certainly Haynes confuses the
various differences between different generation Miatas.

Leon



--
Leon van Dommelen Bozo, the White 96 Sebring Miata .)
http://www.dommelen.net/miata
EXIT THE INTERSTATES (Jamie Jensen)
  #6  
Old November 14th 04, 06:39 AM
KWS
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Yea. Hence my advice that one must be "mechanically minded well" to deal
with this.

Ken

"Leon van Dommelen" > wrote in message
...
> "KWS" > wrote:
>
> >I can't speak for your car, but I'll talk about the 1997 Protégé I did
> >earlier in the year.
> >
> >I used a Chilton manual that was generally helpful, but attempts to be

all
> >things to all models and can be confusing. You have to read it carefully
> >and, even then, there will still be some surprises.

>
> I think the main problem may be that cars are continuously changed
> from one year to the next, and the manual publishers seem to have no
> good way of tracking those changes. Certainly Haynes confuses the
> various differences between different generation Miatas.
>
> Leon
>
>
>
> --
> Leon van Dommelen Bozo, the White 96 Sebring Miata .)
> http://www.dommelen.net/miata
> EXIT THE INTERSTATES (Jamie Jensen)



  #7  
Old November 14th 04, 06:15 PM
Morien Morgan
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default


This will give you every detail of the job. I've just done it - I would say
that you need to be fairly confident / experienced as an amateur spanner
wielder and you'll need a weekend.
http://www.miata.net/garage/water_pump.html




"KWS" > wrote in message
news:%bCld.36231$5K2.3624@attbi_s03...
> Yea. Hence my advice that one must be "mechanically minded well" to deal
> with this.
>
> Ken
>
> "Leon van Dommelen" > wrote in message
> ...
> > "KWS" > wrote:
> >
> > >I can't speak for your car, but I'll talk about the 1997 Protégé I did
> > >earlier in the year.
> > >
> > >I used a Chilton manual that was generally helpful, but attempts to be

> all
> > >things to all models and can be confusing. You have to read it

carefully
> > >and, even then, there will still be some surprises.

> >
> > I think the main problem may be that cars are continuously changed
> > from one year to the next, and the manual publishers seem to have no
> > good way of tracking those changes. Certainly Haynes confuses the
> > various differences between different generation Miatas.
> >
> > Leon
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Leon van Dommelen Bozo, the White 96 Sebring Miata .)
> > http://www.dommelen.net/miata
> > EXIT THE INTERSTATES (Jamie Jensen)

>
>



 




Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
E34 water pump Alex BMW 1 November 25th 04 12:20 AM
water pump on 1999 A4 Buying a Used Audi Audi 4 November 10th 04 09:05 AM
OEM Mazda parts microfiche sets for sale Bigjfig Mazda 0 August 29th 04 11:21 PM
Preventative Water Pump Replacement on 1.8T Engine? Don Borowski Audi 3 June 14th 04 03:49 PM
'97 Audi A6 water pump replacement rong Audi 1 May 27th 04 05:35 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 01:42 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 AutoBanter.
The comments are property of their posters.