alternator circuit question

Jon G. wrote:

> The fellow who gave me this advice could rattle off several voltage
> regulator models, but he was in it to "close the hood" on more than a
> supposed fixit. He knows enough to be dangerous, and is convincing
> enough to come across as someone who knows what he's talking about. I'd
> advise anyone to steer clear of him. Below is his reply to my previous
> post:
>
> =====
>
>
> On Fri, 19 Nov 2004, Jon G. wrote:
>
> > I have a 91 Plymouth Acclaim, and the alternator doesn't charge the
> > battery. I took the alternator out and had it tested, and there's
> > nothing wrong with it. I put a new battery in it, but it still won't
> > charge. I checked the fuseable link from the alternator to the battery,
> > and there is continuity. Therefore, it must be the computer.
>
>
> The regulator is a part of the Single Board Engine Controller, yes.
>
> > there are 4 connections on the alternator
>
>
> > L1: direct to battery, positive
> > L2: direct to battery, negative
> > c1: small wire, logic, to computer, activates diode
> > c2: small wire, logic, to computer, also battery ground.
>
>
> What you are calling "logic" wires are the field wires.
>
> > I want to activate the alternator continuously and put on an
> > external voltage regulator.
>
>
> <etc>
>
> The way you plan to do it will not work.
>
> Here is a fix that *will* work, without replacing the engine computer and
> without causing any additional problems:
>
> First, pick one of the following regulators:
>
> Regular normal electromechanical regulator:
> NAPA Echlin VR32
>
> Extra heavy duty electromechanical regulator w/vibrationproof mount:
> NAPA Echlin VR34
>
> Extra heavy duty electromechanical regulator w/vibrationproof mount and
> convenient external voltage adjustment screw:
> NAPA Echlin VR35, Standard-Bluestreak VR106
>
> Transistorized regulator with no moving parts (no adjusting screw):
> Standard-Bluestreak VR101, Wells VR706 (the wells item is very
> inexpensive; it works but Wells doesn't make my favourite stuff)
>
> Waterproof potted IC regulator with no moving parts (no adjusting screw):
> NAPA Echlin VR1001, Standard-Bluestreak VR128
>
>
> Any of these regulators will have two terminals on it, one marked "IGN"
> and the other marked "FLD". (the VR1001 and VR128 have the "fld" terminal
> on the end of a short wire lead). The alternator gets the original C1 and
> C2 wires removed from its two field terminals (right next to each other,
> small studs with nuts retaining the two flag terminals).
>
> The regulator IGN terminal gets 12V via the ignition switch, and the "FLD"
> terminal gets connected via a wire to one (either) of the field terminals
> on the alternator. The other field terminal on the alternator gets
> connected via a wire to ground. Run a ground wire -- 16ga is plenty --
> between the regulator base and the battery negative terminal, and mount
> the regulator such that it won't rock 'n' roll around. At this point, your
> charging system will once again work fine. If you got the adjustable
> regulator, set it for 14.2v across the battery with the engine fully
> warmed up and ambient temperature above 50F.
>
> If your "Check Engine" light comes on, put a resistor across the two
> original field wires C1 and C2 before securing these wires such that they
> can't ground out or get caught in any moving parts.
>
> Close the hood; you're done.
And i see nothing wrong with his reply.
he obviously works for a garage or NAPA , in either case his
explanation looks valid...
maybe you didn't understand all that you read.
the Solid state one is what i would use.

resist this classic appetizer; or light lunch served with
a fresh salad? Versatility is probably this recipe?s greatest virtue,
as one can use the best part of a prime, rare, yearling, or the
morticians occasional horror: a small miracle stopped short by a
drunk driver, or the innocent victim of a drive-by shooting...

2 cups finely chopped very young human flesh
1 cup shredded cabbage
1 cup bean sprouts
5 sprigs green onion, finely chopped
5 cloves minced garlic
4-6 ounces bamboo shoots
Sherry
chicken broth
oil for deep frying (1 gallon)
Salt
pepper
soy & teriyaki
minced ginger, etc.
1 tablespoon cornstarch dissolved in a little cold water
1 egg beaten

Make the stuffing:
Marinate the flesh in a mixture of soy and teriyaki sauces
then stir fry in hot oil for till brown - about 1 minute, remove.
Stir-fry the vegetables.
Put the meat back into the wok and adjust the seasoning.
De-glaze with sherry, cooking off the alcohol.
Add broth (optional) cook a few more minutes.
Add the cornstarch, cook a few minutes till thick,
then place the stuffing into a colander and cool;
2 hours
Wrap the rolls:
Place 3 tablespoons of stuffing in the wrap, roll tightly -
corner nearest you first, fold 2 side corners in,
wrap till remaining corner is left.
Brush with egg, seal, and allow to sit on the seal for
a few minutes.
Fry the rolls:
325° if using egg roll wraps, 350° for spring roll wraps.
Deep fry in peanut oil till crispy golden brown, drain on paper towels.



Lemon Neonate

Turkey serves just as well, and in fact even looks a bit like a
well-dressed baby. By the time you turn the child?s breast into
cutlets, it will be indistinguishable. The taste of young human,
although similar to turkey (and chicken) often can be wildly
different depending upon what he or she has consumed during its
10 to 14 months of life...

4 well chosen cutlets (from the breasts of 2 healthy neonates)
2 lar

resist this classic appetizer; or light lunch served with
a fresh salad? Versatility is probably this recipe?s greatest virtue,
as one can use the best part of a prime, rare, yearling, or the
morticians occasional horror: a small miracle stopped short by a
drunk driver, or the innocent victim of a drive-by shooting...

2 cups finely chopped very young human flesh
1 cup shredded cabbage
1 cup bean sprouts
5 sprigs green onion, finely chopped
5 cloves minced garlic
4-6 ounces bamboo shoots
Sherry
chicken broth
oil for deep frying (1 gallon)
Salt
pepper
soy & teriyaki
minced ginger, etc.
1 tablespoon cornstarch dissolved in a little cold water
1 egg beaten

Make the stuffing:
Marinate the flesh in a mixture of soy and teriyaki sauces
then stir fry in hot oil for till brown - about 1 minute, remove.
Stir-fry the vegetables.
Put the meat back into the wok and adjust the seasoning.
De-glaze with sherry, cooking off the alcohol.
Add broth (optional) cook a few more minutes.
Add the cornstarch, cook a few minutes till thick,
then place the stuffing into a colander and cool;
2 hours
Wrap the rolls:
Place 3 tablespoons of stuffing in the wrap, roll tightly -
corner nearest you first, fold 2 side corners in,
wrap till remaining corner is left.
Brush with egg, seal, and allow to sit on the seal for
a few minutes.
Fry the rolls:
325° if using egg roll wraps, 350° for spring roll wraps.
Deep fry in peanut oil till crispy golden brown, drain on paper towels.



Lemon Neonate

Turkey serves just as well, and in fact even looks a bit like a
well-dressed baby. By the time you turn the child?s breast into
cutlets, it will be indistinguishable. The taste of young human,
although similar to turkey (and chicken) often can be wildly
different depending upon what he or she has consumed during its
10 to 14 months of life...

4 well chosen cutlets (from the breasts of 2 healthy neonates)
2 lar

"Jon G." > wrote in message
k.net...
> The fellow who gave me this advice could rattle off several
> voltage regulator models, but he was in it to "close the hood"
> on more than a supposed fixit. He knows enough to be dangerous,
> and is convincing enough to come across as someone who knows
> what he's talking about. I'd advise anyone to steer clear of
> him. Below is his reply to my previous post:


His reply will work! You , on the other hand , do not work!







>
> =====
>
>
> On Fri, 19 Nov 2004, Jon G. wrote:
>
> > I have a 91 Plymouth Acclaim, and the alternator doesn't
> charge the
> > battery. I took the alternator out and had it tested, and
> there's
> > nothing wrong with it. I put a new battery in it, but it
> still won't
> > charge. I checked the fuseable link from the alternator to
> the battery,
> > and there is continuity. Therefore, it must be the computer.
>
>
> The regulator is a part of the Single Board Engine Controller, yes.
>
> > there are 4 connections on the alternator
>
>
> > L1: direct to battery, positive
> > L2: direct to battery, negative
> > c1: small wire, logic, to computer, activates diode
> > c2: small wire, logic, to computer, also battery ground.
>
>
> What you are calling "logic" wires are the field wires.
>
> > I want to activate the alternator continuously and put on an
> > external voltage regulator.
>
>
> <etc>
>
> The way you plan to do it will not work.
>
> Here is a fix that *will* work, without replacing the engine
> computer and
> without causing any additional problems:
>
> First, pick one of the following regulators:
>
> Regular normal electromechanical regulator:
> NAPA Echlin VR32
>
> Extra heavy duty electromechanical regulator w/vibrationproof mount:
> NAPA Echlin VR34
>
> Extra heavy duty electromechanical regulator w/vibrationproof
> mount and
> convenient external voltage adjustment screw:
> NAPA Echlin VR35, Standard-Bluestreak VR106
>
> Transistorized regulator with no moving parts (no adjusting screw):
> Standard-Bluestreak VR101, Wells VR706 (the wells item is very
> inexpensive; it works but Wells doesn't make my favourite stuff)
>
> Waterproof potted IC regulator with no moving parts (no
> adjusting screw):
> NAPA Echlin VR1001, Standard-Bluestreak VR128
>
>
> Any of these regulators will have two terminals on it, one
> marked "IGN"
> and the other marked "FLD". (the VR1001 and VR128 have the "fld"
> terminal
> on the end of a short wire lead). The alternator gets the
> original C1 and
> C2 wires removed from its two field terminals (right next to
> each other,
> small studs with nuts retaining the two flag terminals).
>
> The regulator IGN terminal gets 12V via the ignition switch, and
> the "FLD"
> terminal gets connected via a wire to one (either) of the field
> terminals
> on the alternator. The other field terminal on the alternator gets
> connected via a wire to ground. Run a ground wire -- 16ga is
> plenty --
> between the regulator base and the battery negative terminal,
> and mount
> the regulator such that it won't rock 'n' roll around. At this
> point, your
> charging system will once again work fine. If you got the adjustable
> regulator, set it for 14.2v across the battery with the engine fully
> warmed up and ambient temperature above 50F.
>
> If your "Check Engine" light comes on, put a resistor across the two
> original field wires C1 and C2 before securing these wires such
> that they
> can't ground out or get caught in any moving parts.
>
> Close the hood; you're done.

"Jon G." > wrote in message
k.net...
> The fellow who gave me this advice could rattle off several
> voltage regulator models, but he was in it to "close the hood"
> on more than a supposed fixit. He knows enough to be dangerous,
> and is convincing enough to come across as someone who knows
> what he's talking about. I'd advise anyone to steer clear of
> him. Below is his reply to my previous post:


His reply will work! You , on the other hand , do not work!







>
> =====
>
>
> On Fri, 19 Nov 2004, Jon G. wrote:
>
> > I have a 91 Plymouth Acclaim, and the alternator doesn't
> charge the
> > battery. I took the alternator out and had it tested, and
> there's
> > nothing wrong with it. I put a new battery in it, but it
> still won't
> > charge. I checked the fuseable link from the alternator to
> the battery,
> > and there is continuity. Therefore, it must be the computer.
>
>
> The regulator is a part of the Single Board Engine Controller, yes.
>
> > there are 4 connections on the alternator
>
>
> > L1: direct to battery, positive
> > L2: direct to battery, negative
> > c1: small wire, logic, to computer, activates diode
> > c2: small wire, logic, to computer, also battery ground.
>
>
> What you are calling "logic" wires are the field wires.
>
> > I want to activate the alternator continuously and put on an
> > external voltage regulator.
>
>
> <etc>
>
> The way you plan to do it will not work.
>
> Here is a fix that *will* work, without replacing the engine
> computer and
> without causing any additional problems:
>
> First, pick one of the following regulators:
>
> Regular normal electromechanical regulator:
> NAPA Echlin VR32
>
> Extra heavy duty electromechanical regulator w/vibrationproof mount:
> NAPA Echlin VR34
>
> Extra heavy duty electromechanical regulator w/vibrationproof
> mount and
> convenient external voltage adjustment screw:
> NAPA Echlin VR35, Standard-Bluestreak VR106
>
> Transistorized regulator with no moving parts (no adjusting screw):
> Standard-Bluestreak VR101, Wells VR706 (the wells item is very
> inexpensive; it works but Wells doesn't make my favourite stuff)
>
> Waterproof potted IC regulator with no moving parts (no
> adjusting screw):
> NAPA Echlin VR1001, Standard-Bluestreak VR128
>
>
> Any of these regulators will have two terminals on it, one
> marked "IGN"
> and the other marked "FLD". (the VR1001 and VR128 have the "fld"
> terminal
> on the end of a short wire lead). The alternator gets the
> original C1 and
> C2 wires removed from its two field terminals (right next to
> each other,
> small studs with nuts retaining the two flag terminals).
>
> The regulator IGN terminal gets 12V via the ignition switch, and
> the "FLD"
> terminal gets connected via a wire to one (either) of the field
> terminals
> on the alternator. The other field terminal on the alternator gets
> connected via a wire to ground. Run a ground wire -- 16ga is
> plenty --
> between the regulator base and the battery negative terminal,
> and mount
> the regulator such that it won't rock 'n' roll around. At this
> point, your
> charging system will once again work fine. If you got the adjustable
> regulator, set it for 14.2v across the battery with the engine fully
> warmed up and ambient temperature above 50F.
>
> If your "Check Engine" light comes on, put a resistor across the two
> original field wires C1 and C2 before securing these wires such
> that they
> can't ground out or get caught in any moving parts.
>
> Close the hood; you're done.