Brake pad for '03

I have a 2003 XLT V6. The dealer advised me that at around 20K miles ( next
service ) I probably would need front pads. Tipically, I try not to have
the rotors turned when I replace pads. Basically, the rotors usually don't
have enough mass to begin with, and after turning, even once, they usually
warp before they hit another 5K miles. It's usually a battle because
mechanics still seem to be bound by the old brake shoe and drum technology.
If the rotor isn't scored, all it needs is a little roughing up and that's
it. If the rotor needs truing, I feel it's less expensive in the long run
to replace it. Anybody have any opinions?

Another thing what would be the best pads to use on this vehicle. This
would have to be done at an independent shop.

Sy Cohen

--
_______________________________________________
Windows XP crash'd.
I am the Blue Screen of Death.
No-one hears your screams.

Is this an automatic vehicle? I can't see being out of pads at 20,000
miles. I have a 2000 Exp Sport and have 70,000 with lots of brake pad left.
Yet, mine is a manual. but I really can't see that being that dramatic of a
difference. I would think you have another issue. If you had quite a few
miles on it, I would replace the discs also along with the pads. With the
low miles I can't really see the discs being bad.

Or you have an overanxious dealership.

Scott
"Sy Cohen" > wrote in message
news
> I have a 2003 XLT V6. The dealer advised me that at around 20K miles (
next
> service ) I probably would need front pads. Tipically, I try not to have
> the rotors turned when I replace pads. Basically, the rotors usually
don't
> have enough mass to begin with, and after turning, even once, they usually
> warp before they hit another 5K miles. It's usually a battle because
> mechanics still seem to be bound by the old brake shoe and drum
technology.
> If the rotor isn't scored, all it needs is a little roughing up and that's
> it. If the rotor needs truing, I feel it's less expensive in the long run
> to replace it. Anybody have any opinions?
>
> Another thing what would be the best pads to use on this vehicle. This
> would have to be done at an independent shop.
>
> Sy Cohen
>
> --
> _______________________________________________
> Windows XP crash'd.
> I am the Blue Screen of Death.
> No-one hears your screams.
>
>

"Sy Cohen" > wrote in message
news
> I have a 2003 XLT V6. The dealer advised me that at around 20K miles (
next
> service ) I probably would need front pads. Tipically, I try not to have
> the rotors turned when I replace pads. Basically, the rotors usually
don't
> have enough mass to begin with, and after turning, even once, they usually
> warp before they hit another 5K miles. It's usually a battle because
> mechanics still seem to be bound by the old brake shoe and drum
technology.
> If the rotor isn't scored, all it needs is a little roughing up and that's
> it. If the rotor needs truing, I feel it's less expensive in the long run
> to replace it. Anybody have any opinions?
>

Do you drive with your foot resting on the brake pedal? My '01 with 23000
miles shows almost no pad wear and the rotors are still smooth.
Unless the pedal is pulsating or the rotors are DEEPLY scored, I'd just
replace the pads, if needed.
I'd either look myself or get a second opinion from someone I trust.
H

>>
>
> Do you drive with your foot resting on the brake pedal? My '01 with 23000
> miles shows almost no pad wear and the rotors are still smooth.
> Unless the pedal is pulsating or the rotors are DEEPLY scored, I'd just
> replace the pads, if needed.
> I'd either look myself or get a second opinion from someone I trust.
> H
>
>Thanks for the quick replies. That's exactly what I'm doing. This week
>I'll take it into my favorite shop and have him take a look. I never had
>to replace pads on my '98 or '00 until they had over 40k miles.

Sy Cohen

Sy Cohen wrote:
> I have a 2003 XLT V6. The dealer advised me that at around 20K miles ( next
> service ) I probably would need front pads.

That's because he wants to sell you some brake pads and the labor to
install them, which is about a one hour flat rate job, but can be done
in a few minutes by skilled wrench. Take a wheel off and eye-ball them
yourself to see how worn they really are. You might even be able to see
the pads through the end of the caliper if you just climb under the car
(without jacking it) with a good flashlight.

> Tipically, I try not to have
> the rotors turned when I replace pads. Basically, the rotors usually don't
> have enough mass to begin with, and after turning, even once, they usually
> warp before they hit another 5K miles. It's usually a battle because
> mechanics still seem to be bound by the old brake shoe and drum technology.
> If the rotor isn't scored, all it needs is a little roughing up and that's
> it. If the rotor needs truing, I feel it's less expensive in the long run
> to replace it. Anybody have any opinions?

I'm with you, except I do not replace rotors for "scoring". If they
have grooves worn circumferentially around the pad cointact surface, the
pads will very quickly wear to the same shape and your braking will be fine.

The *only* reasons that I would replace rotors would be they are warped
(evidenced by pulsation during braking) or if they had worn past the
minimum thickness spec, which would make them more likely to warp. BTW,
I have never seen a rotor that wore past minimum thickness spec unless
someone turned them.

>
> Another thing what would be the best pads to use on this vehicle. This
> would have to be done at an independent shop.
>

Personally, I like Raybestos PG Plus (Pro Grade) which can be found at
many parts jobbers or online at http://www.rockauto.com No affiliation,
yada, yada...


-Fred W

> Personally, I like Raybestos PG Plus (Pro Grade) which can be found at
> many parts jobbers or online at http://www.rockauto.com No affiliation,
> yada, yada...
>
>
> -Fred W

Thanks a lot Fred. I'm afraid that I'll have to take it into a local shop
to look the pads. I tore my quad tendon last winter and I don't do well on
my knees yet. Does that qualify you for disability if you're in sales?

Sy Cohen

cyclone wrote:
>>Personally, I like Raybestos PG Plus (Pro Grade) which can be found at
>>many parts jobbers or online at http://www.rockauto.com No affiliation,
>>yada, yada...
>>
>>
>>-Fred W
>
>
> Thanks a lot Fred. I'm afraid that I'll have to take it into a local shop
> to look the pads. I tore my quad tendon last winter and I don't do well on
> my knees yet. Does that qualify you for disability if you're in sales?
>
> Sy Cohen
>
>

I know it would in my company... ;-)

-Fred W