VW Rabbit Timing Belt Tensioner - help removing

I am replacing the timing belt and tensioner on a 78 VW Rabbit diesel.
I can't seem to find a way to remove the tensioner. After removing the
bolt holding the tensioner in place, the tensioner slides back on the
pin it rests on only to hit up against the wheel well frame. There
must be an easy way of backing it out and removing it, but I can't
figure it out.

Any help would be appreciated!

Thank you,

Jeff

So you have removed the nut and you can't slide the tensioner off of the
stud huh?
Option 1:
Try carefully jacking up the engine and you should get enough clearance to
remove or install the tensioner.

Option 2:
Also you could possible lock two nuts on the stud and remove it like a bolt.
Then you can remove both the stud and the tensioner together.
I prefer Option 1.

Did you lock everything down before you removed the belt? The cam, FI pump
etc? The advance cable for the FI pump fully pushed in?

--
later,
dave
(One out of many daves)


"JH" > wrote in message
ups.com...
>I am replacing the timing belt and tensioner on a 78 VW Rabbit diesel.
> I can't seem to find a way to remove the tensioner. After removing the
> bolt holding the tensioner in place, the tensioner slides back on the
> pin it rests on only to hit up against the wheel well frame. There
> must be an easy way of backing it out and removing it, but I can't
> figure it out.
>
> Any help would be appreciated!
>
> Thank you,
>
> Jeff
>

> There
> must be an easy way of backing it out and removing it, but I can't
> figure it out.

I got mine out by jacking the engine up by the oil pan a little bit
(careful, don't break a motor mount!). If necessary you can remove the
single long motor mount bolt that goes through the passenger side
mount, and remove the two bolts holding the front motor mount to the
frame (under the radiator) to jack up the engine more.

It's a lot easier on a gas engine as the tensioner is skinnier.

> Option 2:
> Also you could possible lock two nuts on the stud and remove it like a bolt.
> Then you can remove both the stud and the tensioner together.

I dunno, you'd have to find two skinny nuts, or use a grinder to make
them skinny. I don't think there are enough threads to fit two nuts on
there along with the tensioner. I could be wrong though.

> I prefer Option 1.

Ditto.

wrote:
> > There
> > must be an easy way of backing it out and removing it, but I can't
> > figure it out.
>
> I got mine out by jacking the engine up by the oil pan a little bit
> (careful, don't break a motor mount!). If necessary you can remove the
> single long motor mount bolt that goes through the passenger side
> mount, and remove the two bolts holding the front motor mount to the
> frame (under the radiator) to jack up the engine more.
>
> It's a lot easier on a gas engine as the tensioner is skinnier.

Thank you to everyone who replied. I put a jack under the engine, and
removed the passenger side engine mount bolt. Jacked the engine up a
couple of inches, and the tensioner came right out.

Also, FYI...I used the VW timing belt tools to make sure the cam and
injection pump did not move. i.e. a metel wedge that keeps the cam in
placeat TDC, and a bolt to keep the injection pump in place.

Jeff

> I am replacing the timing belt and tensioner on a 78 VW Rabbit diesel.
> I can't seem to find a way to remove the tensioner. After removing the
> bolt holding the tensioner in place, the tensioner slides back on the
> pin it rests on only to hit up against the wheel well frame. There
> must be an easy way of backing it out and removing it, but I can't
> figure it out.

First, the hole on the timing belt tensioners is offset. The tensioner will
naturally rotate around to hang farthest down. You may be able to gain the
clearance you need by rotating the center of the tensioner upwards, then
sliding it off.

Otherwise, a 1978 Rabbit could likely have a worn engine mount on that
side. Quick fix, jack the engine up and slide the tensioner off. But you'll
probably want to consider replacing that engine mount if that's the case.

Last possibility, remove the stud from the cylinder head and take the
tensioner out with it. Thread on a couple of nuts, and tighten them
together, then you can back out the stud. Of course, there's a small risk
of damaging the stud or cylinder head threads, but it may be the best
option.

Good luck,

Anthony

congrats and I will assume that all is right again and you are getting more
mpg than most of us again. lol
--
later,
dave
(One out of many daves)


"JH" > wrote in message
oups.com...
>
> wrote:
>> > There
>> > must be an easy way of backing it out and removing it, but I can't
>> > figure it out.
>>
>> I got mine out by jacking the engine up by the oil pan a little bit
>> (careful, don't break a motor mount!). If necessary you can remove the
>> single long motor mount bolt that goes through the passenger side
>> mount, and remove the two bolts holding the front motor mount to the
>> frame (under the radiator) to jack up the engine more.
>>
>> It's a lot easier on a gas engine as the tensioner is skinnier.
>
> Thank you to everyone who replied. I put a jack under the engine, and
> removed the passenger side engine mount bolt. Jacked the engine up a
> couple of inches, and the tensioner came right out.
>
> Also, FYI...I used the VW timing belt tools to make sure the cam and
> injection pump did not move. i.e. a metel wedge that keeps the cam in
> placeat TDC, and a bolt to keep the injection pump in place.
>
> Jeff
>

Regarding 78 VW Diesel Rabbit:

Could Dave or maybe someone else in the group help me with a new
problem?

I think the timing belt slipped or the cam moved when I put the belt
back on after I installed the tensioner. The timing is now messed up.
It starts, runs very rough, then dies (lots of blue smoke). I went
back and set the engine cam to TDC, lined the overhead cam up with the
"metal bar" in the slot, and lined the injection pump "notches" (notch
on injection pump pulley lined up on w/ notch on top of injection
pump).

What am I missing? How would I know if I damaged valves as opposed to
having an injection pump timing problem? I don't hear any loud "taps"
like valves hitting pistons, it's more like the injection pump is off.
But, again...I think I have everything lined back up...

Thank you in advance!

Jeff

One out of many daves wrote:
> congrats and I will assume that all is right again and you are getting more
> mpg than most of us again. lol
> --
> later,
> dave
> (One out of many daves)
>
>
> "JH" > wrote in message
> oups.com...
> >
> > wrote:
> >> > There
> >> > must be an easy way of backing it out and removing it, but I can't
> >> > figure it out.
> >>
> >> I got mine out by jacking the engine up by the oil pan a little bit
> >> (careful, don't break a motor mount!). If necessary you can remove the
> >> single long motor mount bolt that goes through the passenger side
> >> mount, and remove the two bolts holding the front motor mount to the
> >> frame (under the radiator) to jack up the engine more.
> >>
> >> It's a lot easier on a gas engine as the tensioner is skinnier.
> >
> > Thank you to everyone who replied. I put a jack under the engine, and
> > removed the passenger side engine mount bolt. Jacked the engine up a
> > couple of inches, and the tensioner came right out.
> >
> > Also, FYI...I used the VW timing belt tools to make sure the cam and
> > injection pump did not move. i.e. a metel wedge that keeps the cam in
> > placeat TDC, and a bolt to keep the injection pump in place.
> >
> > Jeff
> >

Ok. you have to line up the crankshaft through the hole in the top of the
transmission too. There's a plastic cover and the flywheel has a timing
mark. There's a tool that locks the flywheel, that isn't necessary but you
have to check it with a ruler or something. Also, did you pop off the
camshaft pulley. You loosen up the nut , a little , stick a prybar or
screwdriver in between the head. Put tension on it, You rap it with a hammer
and it pops off. It floats until you get the belt tight . If you didnt ,
when you tighten the belt, the crankshaft moves out of time instead of the
cam gear moving to keep everything lined up. You didn't mention this. I
think this is your issue.

"JH" > wrote in message
ps.com...
> Regarding 78 VW Diesel Rabbit:
>
> Could Dave or maybe someone else in the group help me with a new
> problem?
>
> I think the timing belt slipped or the cam moved when I put the belt
> back on after I installed the tensioner. The timing is now messed up.
> It starts, runs very rough, then dies (lots of blue smoke). I went
> back and set the engine cam to TDC, lined the overhead cam up with the
> "metal bar" in the slot, and lined the injection pump "notches" (notch
> on injection pump pulley lined up on w/ notch on top of injection
> pump).
>
> What am I missing? How would I know if I damaged valves as opposed to
> having an injection pump timing problem? I don't hear any loud "taps"
> like valves hitting pistons, it's more like the injection pump is off.
> But, again...I think I have everything lined back up...
>
> Thank you in advance!
>
> Jeff
>
> One out of many daves wrote:
>> congrats and I will assume that all is right again and you are getting
>> more
>> mpg than most of us again. lol
>> --
>> later,
>> dave
>> (One out of many daves)
>>
>>
>> "JH" > wrote in message
>> oups.com...
>> >
>> > wrote:
>> >> > There
>> >> > must be an easy way of backing it out and removing it, but I can't
>> >> > figure it out.
>> >>
>> >> I got mine out by jacking the engine up by the oil pan a little bit
>> >> (careful, don't break a motor mount!). If necessary you can remove the
>> >> single long motor mount bolt that goes through the passenger side
>> >> mount, and remove the two bolts holding the front motor mount to the
>> >> frame (under the radiator) to jack up the engine more.
>> >>
>> >> It's a lot easier on a gas engine as the tensioner is skinnier.
>> >
>> > Thank you to everyone who replied. I put a jack under the engine, and
>> > removed the passenger side engine mount bolt. Jacked the engine up a
>> > couple of inches, and the tensioner came right out.
>> >
>> > Also, FYI...I used the VW timing belt tools to make sure the cam and
>> > injection pump did not move. i.e. a metel wedge that keeps the cam in
>> > placeat TDC, and a bolt to keep the injection pump in place.
>> >
>> > Jeff
>> >
>

I don't think you slammed valves yet. I don't think a VW diesel will run
with a jumped tooth without slamming valves. It sounds like timing retarded
from not locking the crank down, and breaking the cam pulley loose. Because
someone before you set the timing with a worn tensioner. However you are
very close to doing damage. If you keep trying and do jump a tooth. Its
gonna get ugly. You shouldn't of had to do all this, if you paint marked you
pulleys and belts for a tensioner change. however, If the timing was set
right with a worn tensioner. Its going to be off if you replace it . You got
to move the cam pulley to get it right.
"none2u" > wrote in message
et...
> Ok. you have to line up the crankshaft through the hole in the top of the
> transmission too. There's a plastic cover and the flywheel has a timing
> mark. There's a tool that locks the flywheel, that isn't necessary but you
> have to check it with a ruler or something. Also, did you pop off the
> camshaft pulley. You loosen up the nut , a little , stick a prybar or
> screwdriver in between the head. Put tension on it, You rap it with a
> hammer and it pops off. It floats until you get the belt tight . If you
> didnt , when you tighten the belt, the crankshaft moves out of time
> instead of the cam gear moving to keep everything lined up. You didn't
> mention this. I think this is your issue.
>
> "JH" > wrote in message
> ps.com...
>> Regarding 78 VW Diesel Rabbit:
>>
>> Could Dave or maybe someone else in the group help me with a new
>> problem?
>>
>> I think the timing belt slipped or the cam moved when I put the belt
>> back on after I installed the tensioner. The timing is now messed up.
>> It starts, runs very rough, then dies (lots of blue smoke). I went
>> back and set the engine cam to TDC, lined the overhead cam up with the
>> "metal bar" in the slot, and lined the injection pump "notches" (notch
>> on injection pump pulley lined up on w/ notch on top of injection
>> pump).
>>
>> What am I missing? How would I know if I damaged valves as opposed to
>> having an injection pump timing problem? I don't hear any loud "taps"
>> like valves hitting pistons, it's more like the injection pump is off.
>> But, again...I think I have everything lined back up...
>>
>> Thank you in advance!
>>
>> Jeff
>>
>> One out of many daves wrote:
>>> congrats and I will assume that all is right again and you are getting
>>> more
>>> mpg than most of us again. lol
>>> --
>>> later,
>>> dave
>>> (One out of many daves)
>>>
>>>
>>> "JH" > wrote in message
>>> oups.com...
>>> >
>>> > wrote:
>>> >> > There
>>> >> > must be an easy way of backing it out and removing it, but I can't
>>> >> > figure it out.
>>> >>
>>> >> I got mine out by jacking the engine up by the oil pan a little bit
>>> >> (careful, don't break a motor mount!). If necessary you can remove
>>> >> the
>>> >> single long motor mount bolt that goes through the passenger side
>>> >> mount, and remove the two bolts holding the front motor mount to the
>>> >> frame (under the radiator) to jack up the engine more.
>>> >>
>>> >> It's a lot easier on a gas engine as the tensioner is skinnier.
>>> >
>>> > Thank you to everyone who replied. I put a jack under the engine, and
>>> > removed the passenger side engine mount bolt. Jacked the engine up a
>>> > couple of inches, and the tensioner came right out.
>>> >
>>> > Also, FYI...I used the VW timing belt tools to make sure the cam and
>>> > injection pump did not move. i.e. a metel wedge that keeps the cam in
>>> > placeat TDC, and a bolt to keep the injection pump in place.
>>> >
>>> > Jeff
>>> >
>>
>
>