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Cleaning well area on 67 Mustang



 
 
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  #1  
Old July 19th 05, 03:41 PM
Pelon
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Default Cleaning well area on 67 Mustang

I recently purchased a 67 Mustang and between the hood and the windshiled
is two grilled wells that are clogged with dirt and debris. What is the
best way to clean this area and the best way to access it to clean? Any
help is appreciated.

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  #2  
Old July 19th 05, 06:09 PM
walt peifer
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"Pelon" > wrote in message
lkaboutautos.com...
>I recently purchased a 67 Mustang and between the hood and the windshiled
> is two grilled wells that are clogged with dirt and debris. What is the
> best way to clean this area and the best way to access it to clean? Any
> help is appreciated.
>

shop vac and pressure washer. be careful if the debris is old it maybe
indication of rusted cowl vents. there is no easy way to remove the cowl
from the 64-68 mustangs. it is a welded part of the original unit body. Some
folks have pulled off the fenders and drilled the welds at the corners and
cut and peeled them open there for rust repair and cleaning. Also you can
remove the fresh air vent on the drivers side and the the box from the
passenger side to acess the the cowl vents themselves, here again use a shop
van with a small hose to get up in there. good time to look for rust and do
minor repairs


  #3  
Old July 19th 05, 07:24 PM
Spike
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I would advise against using the pressure washer until you have had a
good look under the dash for rust holes. What does work is a steamer.
Less water is involved, and it will soften up the crud if it is really
caked on.

There are small ports at each end of the cowl area (hidden by the
fenders). When a bunch of crud gets in there; which is a common
problem; it holds moisture in like a sponge. This leads to rusting
through into the cabin. If the drain ports are clogged, enough water
can back up to overflow the Abe Lincoln hat styled vents like
overfilling a bathtub... soaking the carpets, which can lead to
rusting out the floor pan.

Use the vac and get whatever you can directly through the grills. You
might need a straightened wire clothes hanger to loosen as much debris
as possible. A flex neck flashlight (as is commonly used in
gunsmithing - a bore light) is a BIG help, along with one of those
small dental type mirrors. These allow you to see back into the
recesses.

NOTE: Not knowing the situation under which you found this car, you
may have critters nesting in there... wear gloves when working with
the debris.

Then, gain access from under the dash and do the same by going up
through the vents. Here, you might get someone to help by working the
wire from the outside.

Look at the vents closely for signs of rust/rust through right around
the openings. If it is bad, there are repair kits available. If it's
REALLY bad all over (not just at the vents)... you don't want to go
there. This is the worst repair task, and the most expensive. Even
worse than replacing the entire floor pan.

If you have the time, and I would recommend you make the time, remove
the fenders to get better access to the drain ports. Work the wire
through the ports to make sure they are clear.

Once everything has been thoroughly cleaned out, and any repairs made
if needed, there are two things I'd recommend....

a car cover for when the car is parked (which is when leaves and such
get in there most often)....

and there is a gadget called a Cowl Cover (make sure the cowl area is
totally dried out before installing). There are two types. One is
magnetic, and the other used clamping screws. They are made of
Plexiglas or Lexan. I would recommend using the second type and make
it a semi-permanent install. This will block off the grills so water,
leaves, etc don't enter. Of course, air won't enter either. I haven't
done it yet, but I am seriously considering drilling a pattern of
holes which will allow for air flow, while minimizing the amount of
water.

Hope this helps.

On Tue, 19 Jul 2005 10:41:04 -0400, "Pelon" > wrote:

>I recently purchased a 67 Mustang and between the hood and the windshiled
>is two grilled wells that are clogged with dirt and debris. What is the
>best way to clean this area and the best way to access it to clean? Any
>help is appreciated.


Spike
1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok
Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior; Vintage 40
16" rims w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A gForce Radial
225/50ZR16 KDWS skins; surround sound audio-video.

"When the time comes to lay down my life for my country,
I do not cower from this responsibility. I welcome it."
-JFK Inaugural Address
  #4  
Old July 20th 05, 12:55 AM
Alias
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Default

Hey Spike-

I wonder if the Plexiglas/Lexan is thick enough to drill into from the
edge, the flip them over and complete the down-holes. That might almost
completely eliminate water entry. Just a thought. I was considering
buying the bolt-on type for GP.

Alias

-----Original Message-----
From: Spike ]
Posted At: Tuesday, July 19, 2005 11:24 AM
Posted To: rec.autos.makers.ford.mustang
Conversation: Cleaning well area on 67 Mustang
Subject: Cleaning well area on 67 Mustang


I would advise against using the pressure washer until you have had a
good look under the dash for rust holes. What does work is a steamer.
Less water is involved, and it will soften up the crud if it is really
caked on.

There are small ports at each end of the cowl area (hidden by the
fenders). When a bunch of crud gets in there; which is a common problem;
it holds moisture in like a sponge. This leads to rusting through into
the cabin. If the drain ports are clogged, enough water can back up to
overflow the Abe Lincoln hat styled vents like overfilling a bathtub...
soaking the carpets, which can lead to rusting out the floor pan.

Use the vac and get whatever you can directly through the grills. You
might need a straightened wire clothes hanger to loosen as much debris
as possible. A flex neck flashlight (as is commonly used in gunsmithing
- a bore light) is a BIG help, along with one of those small dental type
mirrors. These allow you to see back into the recesses.

NOTE: Not knowing the situation under which you found this car, you may
have critters nesting in there... wear gloves when working with the
debris.

Then, gain access from under the dash and do the same by going up
through the vents. Here, you might get someone to help by working the
wire from the outside.

Look at the vents closely for signs of rust/rust through right around
the openings. If it is bad, there are repair kits available. If it's
REALLY bad all over (not just at the vents)... you don't want to go
there. This is the worst repair task, and the most expensive. Even worse
than replacing the entire floor pan.

If you have the time, and I would recommend you make the time, remove
the fenders to get better access to the drain ports. Work the wire
through the ports to make sure they are clear.

Once everything has been thoroughly cleaned out, and any repairs made if
needed, there are two things I'd recommend....

a car cover for when the car is parked (which is when leaves and such
get in there most often)....

and there is a gadget called a Cowl Cover (make sure the cowl area is
totally dried out before installing). There are two types. One is
magnetic, and the other used clamping screws. They are made of Plexiglas
or Lexan. I would recommend using the second type and make it a
semi-permanent install. This will block off the grills so water, leaves,
etc don't enter. Of course, air won't enter either. I haven't done it
yet, but I am seriously considering drilling a pattern of holes which
will allow for air flow, while minimizing the amount of water.

Hope this helps.

On Tue, 19 Jul 2005 10:41:04 -0400, "Pelon" > wrote:

>I recently purchased a 67 Mustang and between the hood and the
>windshiled is two grilled wells that are clogged with dirt and debris.


>What is the best way to clean this area and the best way to access it

to clean? Any
>help is appreciated.


Spike
1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok
Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior; Vintage 40
16" rims w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A gForce Radial
225/50ZR16 KDWS skins; surround sound audio-video.

"When the time comes to lay down my life for my country,
I do not cower from this responsibility. I welcome it."
-JFK Inaugural Address

  #5  
Old July 20th 05, 01:50 AM
Ritz
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Pelon wrote:
> I recently purchased a 67 Mustang and between the hood and the windshiled
> is two grilled wells that are clogged with dirt and debris. What is the
> best way to clean this area and the best way to access it to clean? Any
> help is appreciated.
>



You have 2 choices.

1. Drill out the welds on the cowling and remove it.
2. Remove the heater box from below and attack the problem from inside
the car.

Don't inundate the area with water. There are little "walls" about 1"
high around the openings to the heater box that are supposed to keep
pooled water out of the heater system. Those little walls are made out
of sheet metal and frequently rust through. So if you get any
appreciable amount of water into the cowling, you wind up with water in
the passenger side footwell when it starts pouring into the heater box.
This eventually leads to the floor pan rotting out. EVERY east cost
Mustang in the 65 1/2-68 range that I've worked on has had this problem.
A pair of tin snips, some aluminum flashing and some silicone sealant
can be used to recreate the water barriers and mostly cure this. If it
was my car, I'd probably attack this from the bottom.

Cheers,

  #6  
Old July 20th 05, 03:36 AM
Mark C.
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Just pull the heater box and vent and vacuum or scoop from below the dash.
Mind the sharp edges. Put down lots of plastic or similar to keep a pretty
interior clean. Your heater box and vent are probably full of debris anyway.
After you get all the big stuff put it all back together and rinse the cowl
out with a garden hose.

--
Mark
--
"I was thinking of the immortal words of Socrates who once said, "I drank
what?". " Val Kilmer in Real Genius.





  #7  
Old July 20th 05, 03:40 AM
Mark C.
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Posts: n/a
Default

"Ritz" > wrote in message ...
> Pelon wrote:
>> I recently purchased a 67 Mustang and between the hood and the windshiled
>> is two grilled wells that are clogged with dirt and debris. What is the
>> best way to clean this area and the best way to access it to clean? Any
>> help is appreciated.

>
>
> You have 2 choices.
>
> 1. Drill out the welds on the cowling and remove it.
> 2. Remove the heater box from below and attack the problem from inside
> the car.
>
> Don't inundate the area with water. There are little "walls" about 1"
> high around the openings to the heater box that are supposed to keep
> pooled water out of the heater system. Those little walls are made out of
> sheet metal and frequently rust through. So if you get any appreciable
> amount of water into the cowling, you wind up with water in the passenger
> side footwell when it starts pouring into the heater box. This eventually
> leads to the floor pan rotting out. EVERY east cost Mustang in the 65
> 1/2-68 range that I've worked on has had this problem. A pair of tin
> snips, some aluminum flashing and some silicone sealant can be used to
> recreate the water barriers and mostly cure this. If it was my car, I'd
> probably attack this from the bottom.
>
> Cheers,
>


Hey Ritz, That sounds like a bummer. I have yet to run into a car with a
rusted cowl here in California. I've owned roughly 25. Find a rusted floor
or two, though. ~

--
Mark
--
"I was thinking of the immortal words of Socrates who once said, "I drank
what?". " Val Kilmer in Real Genius.






  #8  
Old July 20th 05, 04:01 AM
Ritz
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Mark C. wrote:
>>Don't inundate the area with water. There are little "walls" about 1"
>>high around the openings to the heater box that are supposed to keep
>>pooled water out of the heater system. Those little walls are made out of
>>sheet metal and frequently rust through. So if you get any appreciable
>>amount of water into the cowling, you wind up with water in the passenger
>>side footwell when it starts pouring into the heater box. This eventually
>>leads to the floor pan rotting out. EVERY east cost Mustang in the 65
>>1/2-68 range that I've worked on has had this problem. A pair of tin
>>snips, some aluminum flashing and some silicone sealant can be used to
>>recreate the water barriers and mostly cure this. If it was my car, I'd
>>probably attack this from the bottom.
>>
>>Cheers,
>>

>
>
> Hey Ritz, That sounds like a bummer. I have yet to run into a car with a
> rusted cowl here in California. I've owned roughly 25. Find a rusted floor
> or two, though. ~




Yeah, if I ever do another '67 restoration (my favourite year 'cept for
the 69 Mach 1) I'll start with a CA or AZ car. The weather on the right
coast beats the crap out of these old Mustangs if they were driven in
the winter or left outside.

Cheers,


  #9  
Old July 20th 05, 04:13 AM
Spike
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Posts: n/a
Default

Same here. First was a 65 FB from WA which was only 5 years old at the
time and in excellent shape. Bought a 66 FB from Las Vegas which had
originated in San Jose and spent it's life in Chico. Now this 65 FB
which was built in San Jose, and spent it's life in Sacramento area,
and now moving to Redding. All in excellent shape, and the latest one
has been sitting for about 13 years (covered). Had a Mustang II in the
Mojave Desert also in excellent shape (but a pig 302 4V).

The only one bought outside was a 71 with a CJ FMX combo. That came
from Kentucky. It was only 2.5 years old when I got it.

However, I have ridden in cars owned by various people in places like
Indiana, where the water from pooled water on the roads washed up and
across your feet, and the mat would float. Peel it back and you could
see the road passing by below you.

That said.... cars get switched around all over the country and you
have to be very careful. The VIN may say San Jose, but you might find
the car was moved to the northeast or southeast at some point where
the rust set in. Then someone from the west bought it in hopes of
restoration, gave up and passed it on.

When I bought the 66 FB in Vegas, my buyer looked at another one (the
one I actually sent him down to get) and a magnet would not stick to
anything below the belt line. Nixed that one quick and he looked
around and found the substitute.... which still had the original wiper
bag... even tracked down the original owner. Sold that car to a couple
from.... Las Vegas....



On Tue, 19 Jul 2005 19:40:26 -0700, "Mark C."
> wrote:

>"Ritz" > wrote in message ...
>> Pelon wrote:
>>> I recently purchased a 67 Mustang and between the hood and the windshiled
>>> is two grilled wells that are clogged with dirt and debris. What is the
>>> best way to clean this area and the best way to access it to clean? Any
>>> help is appreciated.

>>
>>
>> You have 2 choices.
>>
>> 1. Drill out the welds on the cowling and remove it.
>> 2. Remove the heater box from below and attack the problem from inside
>> the car.
>>
>> Don't inundate the area with water. There are little "walls" about 1"
>> high around the openings to the heater box that are supposed to keep
>> pooled water out of the heater system. Those little walls are made out of
>> sheet metal and frequently rust through. So if you get any appreciable
>> amount of water into the cowling, you wind up with water in the passenger
>> side footwell when it starts pouring into the heater box. This eventually
>> leads to the floor pan rotting out. EVERY east cost Mustang in the 65
>> 1/2-68 range that I've worked on has had this problem. A pair of tin
>> snips, some aluminum flashing and some silicone sealant can be used to
>> recreate the water barriers and mostly cure this. If it was my car, I'd
>> probably attack this from the bottom.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>

>
>Hey Ritz, That sounds like a bummer. I have yet to run into a car with a
>rusted cowl here in California. I've owned roughly 25. Find a rusted floor
>or two, though. ~
>
>--
>Mark


Spike
1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok
Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior; Vintage 40
16" rims w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A gForce Radial
225/50ZR16 KDWS skins; surround sound audio-video.

"When the time comes to lay down my life for my country,
I do not cower from this responsibility. I welcome it."
-JFK Inaugural Address
  #10  
Old July 20th 05, 05:00 AM
Mark C.
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Now this 65 FB
> which was built in San Jose, and spent it's life in Sacramento area,
> and now moving to Redding. All in excellent shape, and the latest one
> has been sitting for about 13 years (covered).
>


Hey Spike, That doesn't happen to be an A code car does it?


--
Mark
--
"I was thinking of the immortal words of Socrates who once said, "I drank
what?". " Val Kilmer in Real Genius.






 




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