TIP: Easy Alternator refurbish

If your mid-90's Ford has run up it's mileage to about 100 - 150 kmiles
or so, you might want to undertake a quick Saturday project that will
probably save you big bucks -and inconvenience- in the near future.

(MAny 20 year old and newer alternators are built similar to this)

Check out the back of the alternator to see if the voltage regulator (at
the connector with the smaller wires) is held on by small torx screws.

If so, refurbishing which COULD be better than "rebuilding" - for a guy
who is at all handy should be piece of cake.

Tools:
- 3/8 or 1/2 inch breaker bar or whatever you use to release belt
tensioner,
- approp metric or sae tools for automotive access service.
- 1/4 inch driver and small sockets plus small standard torx bits
- standard size paperclip

Parts:
- brush replacement set for your year, model and engine
- new belt, optional
- a dab of high temp bearing grease

Release tension and remove the belt, then listen carefully while you spin
the pulley and check for free-spin and listen for bearing singing -you
want to hear a little but no grinding or roiugh sounds- then wiggle the
pulley back and forth, no sloppiness wanted.

If it fails these, put the belt back on.

Pull the connectors - they may be a little stiff- and unbolt the
alternator.

With tape or marker, run a reassembly line from back housing to front
housing

Remove the three housing bolts, tap the edges of the front (pulley-side)
to loosen from stator (center section) and pull out by the pulley.

The stator and back housing are connected, dont attempt to separate.

Check commutator (brass rings) for galling and copper incursion into
separator between them... if brush had gone and either is grooved
continue on, the new brushes will just not last as long. Use fine
sandpaper to smooth it if ring surface is rough.. DO NOT attempt to sand
more than to get the high points off.

Check back bearing for some grease and for no "wash-board" on shaft
bearing surface.
This is a break-point: if the bearing/surface or commutator (and SOME
brushes left) is in bad shape, you may want to just reassemble and plan
to replace alt.

Remove the torx screws AT THE CORNERS of the regulator and remove it from
back housing.

Remove the two torx screws that fasten the brush terminals to the
regulator body. make sure not to lose the nuts.

blow or brush dust from brush holders/reg and insert the new springs and
brushes, note that the wire slot aligns brush terminal with proper
location,
do rear brush first, sliding straightened clip in to hold it in, then
front brush, sliding clip further in to hold both brushes in

fasten terminals with nuts and torx screws tighten just secure, not
"hard".

using just enough grease to "skin" the bearing rollers, lube the shaft
bearing surface... if you're anal and are going to blow dust out of the
rear housing, plug the bearing cavity tightly with paper towel.

remove towel from bearing, reinstall regulator, then carefully slide alt
back together following the marked alignment.

Make sure stator and each housing mate squarely.

Install the three housing bolts and tighten alternately until very
secure. not ultra tight.

Check for free-spin

- - - - - - - - - - - - - -- - - - - -

Note this is a good alternative to buying a rebuilt as well... get a
spare from a salvage yard and inspect it on the spot. If the alternator
has not overheated or been zapped, there is every reaon to expect the
regulator and diodes to last until the bearings go.

In fact, you dont know that the "rebuilt" hadnt been done exactly like
this, just cleaned up more.

"Backyard Mechanic" > wrote in message
...
> If your mid-90's Ford has run up it's mileage to about 100 - 150 kmiles
> or so, you might want to undertake a quick Saturday project that will
> probably save you big bucks -and inconvenience- in the near future.
>
> (MAny 20 year old and newer alternators are built similar to this)
>

Wrong => on 5.0's!

*replace old alternator* with a new series 3, the old has a undersized
connector for the amperage and will burn up, smoke and flame at some point.
Series 3 uses a terminal, not a connector.
any alternator place will tell you this, they got paid bucks to replace them
in fleets of 5.0 fords.

"biggus" > wrote in message ...
>
> "Backyard Mechanic" > wrote in message
> ...
> > If your mid-90's Ford has run up it's mileage to about 100 - 150 kmiles
> > or so, you might want to undertake a quick Saturday project that will
> > probably save you big bucks -and inconvenience- in the near future.
> >
> > (MAny 20 year old and newer alternators are built similar to this)
> >
>
> Wrong => on 5.0's!
>
> *replace old alternator* with a new series 3, the old has a undersized
> connector for the amperage and will burn up, smoke and flame at some
point.
> Series 3 uses a terminal, not a connector.
> any alternator place will tell you this, they got paid bucks to replace
them
> in fleets of 5.0 fords.
>

Also with any alternator when you have it out, take it to an auto parts
place and have them test it. It's cheap insurance and will tell you if the
alternator has a bad diode or low output or whatever.

Ted

"Backyard Mechanic" > wrote in message ...

> Note this is a good alternative to buying a rebuilt as well... get a
> spare from a salvage yard and inspect it on the spot. If the alternator
> has not overheated or been zapped, there is every reaon to expect the
> regulator and diodes to last until the bearings go.
>
> In fact, you dont know that the "rebuilt" hadnt been done exactly like
> this, just cleaned up more.

Good sense. I would rather buy a "rebuilt" alternator & disassemble
it to check for the problems you mentioned & if everything checks out
ok, then I will just shelve it until the current alternator shoots the bricks
& then swap them out. I may end up with a hefty core charge though.

I have to side with Backyard Mechanic. I'm fixing to roll the odometer for
the third time, still using the original factory alternator. The brushes
woreout at about 150,000 miles I replaced them and the alternator lasted
about another 60 or 70 thousand miles before a diode shorted out. I pulled
the OEM alternator and took it to an auto electric shop where I got it
rebuilt for about fifty dollars, it is still in the engine today. (Special
note, when the diodes fry disconnect the battery pronto!)


"biggus" > wrote in message ...
>
> "Backyard Mechanic" > wrote in message
> ...
> > If your mid-90's Ford has run up it's mileage to about 100 - 150 kmiles
> > or so, you might want to undertake a quick Saturday project that will
> > probably save you big bucks -and inconvenience- in the near future.
> >
> > (MAny 20 year old and newer alternators are built similar to this)
> >
>
> Wrong => on 5.0's!
>
> *replace old alternator* with a new series 3, the old has a undersized
> connector for the amperage and will burn up, smoke and flame at some
point.
> Series 3 uses a terminal, not a connector.
> any alternator place will tell you this, they got paid bucks to replace
them
> in fleets of 5.0 fords.
>
>
>
>
>

"Ironrod" > wrote in message ...
>I have to side with Backyard Mechanic. I'm fixing to roll the odometer for
> the third time, still using the original factory alternator. The brushes
> woreout at about 150,000 miles I replaced them and the alternator lasted
> about another 60 or 70 thousand miles before a diode shorted out. I pulled
> the OEM alternator and took it to an auto electric shop where I got it
> rebuilt for about fifty dollars, it is still in the engine today. (Special
> note, when the diodes fry disconnect the battery pronto!)

They don't make things like they used to.

Shawn wrote:
> "Ironrod" > wrote in message ...
>> I have to side with Backyard Mechanic. I'm fixing to roll the odometer for
>> the third time, still using the original factory alternator. The brushes
>> woreout at about 150,000 miles I replaced them and the alternator lasted
>> about another 60 or 70 thousand miles before a diode shorted out. I pulled
>> the OEM alternator and took it to an auto electric shop where I got it
>> rebuilt for about fifty dollars, it is still in the engine today. (Special
>> note, when the diodes fry disconnect the battery pronto!)
>
> They don't make things like they used to.

What kind of engine? Most engines have the alternator on them, not in
them. I have seen some small engines (Kohler, B&S) that had the
alternator built in, but not in autos.

Jeff

"Jeff" > wrote in message news:lZm6j.3113$k22.1699@trnddc02...
> Shawn wrote:
>> "Ironrod" > wrote in message ...
>>> I have to side with Backyard Mechanic. I'm fixing to roll the odometer for
>>> the third time, still using the original factory alternator. The brushes
>>> woreout at about 150,000 miles I replaced them and the alternator lasted
>>> about another 60 or 70 thousand miles before a diode shorted out. I pulled
>>> the OEM alternator and took it to an auto electric shop where I got it
>>> rebuilt for about fifty dollars, it is still in the engine today. (Special
>>> note, when the diodes fry disconnect the battery pronto!)
>>
>> They don't make things like they used to.
>
> What kind of engine? Most engines have the alternator on them, not in them. I have seen some small engines (Kohler, B&S) that had
> the alternator built in, but not in autos.
>
> Jeff

I have a riding mower that has an electric starter & a smallish 12 volt battery. It
is charged by an armature coil within the flywheel opposite the magneto type
ignition armature. It charges at a slow rate & takes quite a lot of mowing just to
get a half decent charge on it. I wish this 15 HP engine had a pull starter because
it is a pain in the @ss having to jump start or use an external battery charger.

On Sat, 8 Dec 2007 19:16:59 -0500, "Shawn" >
wrote:

>
>"Jeff" > wrote in message news:lZm6j.3113$k22.1699@trnddc02...
>> Shawn wrote:
>>> "Ironrod" > wrote in message ...
>>>> I have to side with Backyard Mechanic. I'm fixing to roll the odometer for
>>>> the third time, still using the original factory alternator. The brushes
>>>> woreout at about 150,000 miles I replaced them and the alternator lasted
>>>> about another 60 or 70 thousand miles before a diode shorted out. I pulled
>>>> the OEM alternator and took it to an auto electric shop where I got it
>>>> rebuilt for about fifty dollars, it is still in the engine today. (Special
>>>> note, when the diodes fry disconnect the battery pronto!)
>>>
>>> They don't make things like they used to.
>>
>> What kind of engine? Most engines have the alternator on them, not in them. I have seen some small engines (Kohler, B&S) that had
>> the alternator built in, but not in autos.
>>
>> Jeff
>
>I have a riding mower that has an electric starter & a smallish 12 volt battery. It
>is charged by an armature coil within the flywheel opposite the magneto type
>ignition armature. It charges at a slow rate & takes quite a lot of mowing just to
>get a half decent charge on it. I wish this 15 HP engine had a pull starter because
>it is a pain in the @ss having to jump start or use an external battery charger.

If this is a Briggs & Stratton Vanguard, they just came out with a
20/50 alternator option - a bigger alternator winding and permanent
magnet set for the flywheel that will give you 20A output at ~1500 RPM
and 50A output at full throttle ~3600 RPM.

More than enough juice for battery charging plus run a few
headlights and taillights and a small stereo.

If this is an older lawnmower that can't be retrofitted, see if you
have a place to get a v-belt pulley on the fan spinner or at the
output shaft end. You can always bypass the flywheel lighting coil
and hang a good old 60A Delco Motorcraft or Motorola car alternator on
there. Who cares if it looks funny, as long as it works.

--<< Bruce >>--

"Bruce L. Bergman" > wrote in message ...
> On Sat, 8 Dec 2007 19:16:59 -0500, "Shawn" >
> wrote:

>>I have a riding mower that has an electric starter & a smallish 12 volt battery. It
>>is charged by an armature coil within the flywheel opposite the magneto type
>>ignition armature. It charges at a slow rate & takes quite a lot of mowing just to
>>get a half decent charge on it. I wish this 15 HP engine had a pull starter because
>>it is a pain in the @ss having to jump start or use an external battery charger.
>
> If this is a Briggs & Stratton Vanguard, they just came out with a
> 20/50 alternator option - a bigger alternator winding and permanent
> magnet set for the flywheel that will give you 20A output at ~1500 RPM
> and 50A output at full throttle ~3600 RPM.
>
> More than enough juice for battery charging plus run a few
> headlights and taillights and a small stereo.

A riding mower with a stereo. Now you are cooking with gas ! What's next ? A/C