heated seats and power windows.

Hi All,

First off, Merry Christmas to you all!

I have aquired an 85 Jetta (for parts) with power windows and heated
seats. I know I can make the seats fit as I already have jetta seats in
my 74 super, but I'm wondering if the power window setup will fit in
the beetle door? Anyone ever tried this?

Also, the heated seats seem to be intermittent or not working at all.
The connector under the drivers seat gets hot, and I wiggled it one
time, then I could swear the seat was getting warm, but it never seemed
to get hot. Anyone know if this is a common problem? The seats are in
mint condition, I'm surprised the seats are not working properly. Mind
you its over 20 years old.

I appreciate any input anybody would have with either the seats or the
windows.

Thanks.

Ryan.

"Cyclone Guy" > wrote in message
ps.com...
> Hi All,
>
> First off, Merry Christmas to you all!
>
> I have aquired an 85 Jetta (for parts) with power windows and heated
> seats. I know I can make the seats fit as I already have jetta seats in
> my 74 super, but I'm wondering if the power window setup will fit in
> the beetle door? Anyone ever tried this?
>
> Also, the heated seats seem to be intermittent or not working at all.
> The connector under the drivers seat gets hot, and I wiggled it one
> time, then I could swear the seat was getting warm, but it never seemed
> to get hot. Anyone know if this is a common problem? The seats are in
> mint condition, I'm surprised the seats are not working properly. Mind
> you its over 20 years old.
>
> I appreciate any input anybody would have with either the seats or the
> windows.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Ryan.
>

Be careful with the power accessories for two reasons:

1. The wiring harness may not be able to cope with it. The more power you
draw through, the thicker the cable should be. Either that or draw your
own wires with separate fuses. This may be the problem with the power
seats, in that the wire is too small to draw that much current. Be careful,
you may be overheating the wire elsewhere! Have you popped a fuse yet?

2. If you tack too many power accessories on the venerable VW, it may not
have enough output from the generator/battery combo to cover that and all
else the vehicle needs.

Remember the VW was supposed to be an inexpensive Everyman's Car. To that
end, things were worked to keep the costs down. Check the wiring diagram
to see what you're drawing where and that you're not overdrawing the current
on a circuit.

Also, the Beetle doors are pretty thin compared to the later models. It may
be tough getting a power window arrangement going with the Jetta motors, but
I believe some of the Califorinia-lookers have done power windows. Again,
seek out those who have successfully done it for help in how to do it and
pitfalls to avoid.

I suspect the problem with the power seats is that mentioned above, that you
don't have enough juice going to get it properly powered with the 1974
alternator and battery.

BTW, do you have those horrid interlocks required of 1974 vehicles? (We're
the Federal Government, we're only here to help.) I took my Driver's Ed
course in a Ford LTD that had one. The car was less than a year old and we
had the interlock act up now and again.

Charles of Kankakee

Charles wrote:
> "Cyclone Guy" > wrote in message
> ps.com...
> > Hi All,
> >
> > First off, Merry Christmas to you all!
> >
> > I have aquired an 85 Jetta (for parts) with power windows and heated
> > seats. I know I can make the seats fit as I already have jetta seats in
> > my 74 super, but I'm wondering if the power window setup will fit in
> > the beetle door? Anyone ever tried this?
> >
> > Also, the heated seats seem to be intermittent or not working at all.
> > The connector under the drivers seat gets hot, and I wiggled it one
> > time, then I could swear the seat was getting warm, but it never seemed
> > to get hot. Anyone know if this is a common problem? The seats are in
> > mint condition, I'm surprised the seats are not working properly. Mind
> > you its over 20 years old.
> >
> > I appreciate any input anybody would have with either the seats or the
> > windows.
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Ryan.
> >
>
> Be careful with the power accessories for two reasons:
>
> 1. The wiring harness may not be able to cope with it. The more power you
> draw through, the thicker the cable should be. Either that or draw your
> own wires with separate fuses. This may be the problem with the power
> seats, in that the wire is too small to draw that much current. Be careful,
> you may be overheating the wire elsewhere! Have you popped a fuse yet?
>
> 2. If you tack too many power accessories on the venerable VW, it may not
> have enough output from the generator/battery combo to cover that and all
> else the vehicle needs.
>
> Remember the VW was supposed to be an inexpensive Everyman's Car. To that
> end, things were worked to keep the costs down. Check the wiring diagram
> to see what you're drawing where and that you're not overdrawing the current
> on a circuit.
>
> Also, the Beetle doors are pretty thin compared to the later models. It may
> be tough getting a power window arrangement going with the Jetta motors, but
> I believe some of the Califorinia-lookers have done power windows. Again,
> seek out those who have successfully done it for help in how to do it and
> pitfalls to avoid.
>
> I suspect the problem with the power seats is that mentioned above, that you
> don't have enough juice going to get it properly powered with the 1974
> alternator and battery.
>
> BTW, do you have those horrid interlocks required of 1974 vehicles? (We're
> the Federal Government, we're only here to help.) I took my Driver's Ed
> course in a Ford LTD that had one. The car was less than a year old and we
> had the interlock act up now and again.
>
> Charles of Kankakee

I forgot to mention, that I have not removed the seats from the Jetta
yet, I just got the car two days ago, and was playing with the heated
seats to ensure they worked before I pulled them. I plan on fixing the
seats before I remove them so I know they will work in my bug. I know
what you mean about the weaker electrical system in the bug, I am going
to run a 10 gauge wire from the battery to the seats and run my own
fuses.

The seatbelt interlock was disengaged on my bug long ago, I have never
had to worry about it.

Ryan Lester
1974 Super Sunbug
1974 Super "PlowBug"
1973 "Monster Bug"
www.cyclonegt.com

Cyclone Guy wrote:
> Charles wrote:
> > "Cyclone Guy" > wrote in message
> > ps.com...
> > > Hi All,
> > >
> > > First off, Merry Christmas to you all!
> > >
> > > I have aquired an 85 Jetta (for parts) with power windows and heated
> > > seats. I know I can make the seats fit as I already have jetta seats in
> > > my 74 super, but I'm wondering if the power window setup will fit in
> > > the beetle door? Anyone ever tried this?
> > >
> > > Also, the heated seats seem to be intermittent or not working at all.
> > > The connector under the drivers seat gets hot, and I wiggled it one
> > > time, then I could swear the seat was getting warm, but it never seemed
> > > to get hot. Anyone know if this is a common problem? The seats are in
> > > mint condition, I'm surprised the seats are not working properly. Mind
> > > you its over 20 years old.
> > >
> > > I appreciate any input anybody would have with either the seats or the
> > > windows.
> > >
> > > Thanks.
> > >
> > > Ryan.
> > >
> >
> > Be careful with the power accessories for two reasons:
> >
> > 1. The wiring harness may not be able to cope with it. The more power you
> > draw through, the thicker the cable should be. Either that or draw your
> > own wires with separate fuses. This may be the problem with the power
> > seats, in that the wire is too small to draw that much current. Be careful,
> > you may be overheating the wire elsewhere! Have you popped a fuse yet?
> >
> > 2. If you tack too many power accessories on the venerable VW, it may not
> > have enough output from the generator/battery combo to cover that and all
> > else the vehicle needs.
> >
> > Remember the VW was supposed to be an inexpensive Everyman's Car. To that
> > end, things were worked to keep the costs down. Check the wiring diagram
> > to see what you're drawing where and that you're not overdrawing the current
> > on a circuit.
> >
> > Also, the Beetle doors are pretty thin compared to the later models. It may
> > be tough getting a power window arrangement going with the Jetta motors, but
> > I believe some of the Califorinia-lookers have done power windows. Again,
> > seek out those who have successfully done it for help in how to do it and
> > pitfalls to avoid.
> >
> > I suspect the problem with the power seats is that mentioned above, that you
> > don't have enough juice going to get it properly powered with the 1974
> > alternator and battery.
> >
> > BTW, do you have those horrid interlocks required of 1974 vehicles? (We're
> > the Federal Government, we're only here to help.) I took my Driver's Ed
> > course in a Ford LTD that had one. The car was less than a year old and we
> > had the interlock act up now and again.
> >
> > Charles of Kankakee
>
> I forgot to mention, that I have not removed the seats from the Jetta
> yet, I just got the car two days ago, and was playing with the heated
> seats to ensure they worked before I pulled them. I plan on fixing the
> seats before I remove them so I know they will work in my bug. I know
> what you mean about the weaker electrical system in the bug, I am going
> to run a 10 gauge wire from the battery to the seats and run my own
> fuses.
>
> The seatbelt interlock was disengaged on my bug long ago, I have never
> had to worry about it.
>

Sounds like a plan and I am certainly not saying it won't work.

You do want to make sure that the bug's alternator is indeed rated for
that kind of current. (normal operating current + bun warmer current)
It will also put some strain on the engine - a loaded alternator is
harder to turn so will cause your bug to have to work harder.

If it works, I want to be your passenger

Remco

I wouldn't be surprised if it is able to keep up. So far, its able to
keep up with the gas heater, electric winch (raising and lowering the
plow), wipers, headlights, halogen backup lights, bilge blower booster
fans, cd-player, all going at once, with the temperature usually around
-20C and sometimes colder. This car is used almost exclusively for
plowing snow (or thrill rides for the kids), and has worked flawlessly
for around 8 or 9 years. I really should install a volt gauge on this
thing, but the factory 50 amp alternator has not failed since day one.
As for the extra load on the engine, it has not stalled yet, other than
bad gas (car only gets filled up two or three times a year, old gas
gets stale).

Ryan.

"Cyclone Guy" > wrote in message
oups.com...
>I wouldn't be surprised if it is able to keep up. So far, its able to
> keep up with the gas heater, electric winch (raising and lowering the
> plow), wipers, headlights, halogen backup lights, bilge blower booster
> fans, cd-player, all going at once, with the temperature usually around
> -20C and sometimes colder. This car is used almost exclusively for
> plowing snow (or thrill rides for the kids), and has worked flawlessly
> for around 8 or 9 years. I really should install a volt gauge on this
> thing, but the factory 50 amp alternator has not failed since day one.
> As for the extra load on the engine, it has not stalled yet, other than
> bad gas (car only gets filled up two or three times a year, old gas
> gets stale).
>
> Ryan.
>

Just to be nosy, how much amps do the heated seats draw at 12 volts?

Charles of Kankakee

about 4 to 5 amps each at full heat (each seat has settings of 1 to 5).

Charles wrote:
> "Cyclone Guy" > wrote in message
> oups.com...
> >I wouldn't be surprised if it is able to keep up. So far, its able to
> > keep up with the gas heater, electric winch (raising and lowering the
> > plow), wipers, headlights, halogen backup lights, bilge blower booster
> > fans, cd-player, all going at once, with the temperature usually around
> > -20C and sometimes colder. This car is used almost exclusively for
> > plowing snow (or thrill rides for the kids), and has worked flawlessly
> > for around 8 or 9 years. I really should install a volt gauge on this
> > thing, but the factory 50 amp alternator has not failed since day one.
> > As for the extra load on the engine, it has not stalled yet, other than
> > bad gas (car only gets filled up two or three times a year, old gas
> > gets stale).
> >
> > Ryan.
> >
>
> Just to be nosy, how much amps do the heated seats draw at 12 volts?
>

I can tell Charles and I are on the same page because of the question
he asked just then.

It could very well work, but you conversely could be very close to your
capacity with the stuff you have running - the current you can draw
does have some limit and you don't know how close you are to that limit
now.

I'd measure the current as it stands now and separately measure the
current for the bunwarmer and make sure you don't exceed of the max
(less a 10 percent margin, to be anal).
If you blindly hooked the bunwarmer up to the present system, you may
blow out the alternator's diodes (not a huge deal, but why find out
this way, right) or you may get lucky and find it all works fine.
I'd measure it to make sure it would work.

If it works, it would make a very nice addition. I'd be jelous

Remco

Remco wrote:
> Charles wrote:
> > "Cyclone Guy" > wrote in message
> > oups.com...
> > >I wouldn't be surprised if it is able to keep up. So far, its able to
> > > keep up with the gas heater, electric winch (raising and lowering the
> > > plow), wipers, headlights, halogen backup lights, bilge blower booster
> > > fans, cd-player, all going at once, with the temperature usually around
> > > -20C and sometimes colder. This car is used almost exclusively for
> > > plowing snow (or thrill rides for the kids), and has worked flawlessly
> > > for around 8 or 9 years. I really should install a volt gauge on this
> > > thing, but the factory 50 amp alternator has not failed since day one.
> > > As for the extra load on the engine, it has not stalled yet, other than
> > > bad gas (car only gets filled up two or three times a year, old gas
> > > gets stale).
> > >
> > > Ryan.
> > >
> >
> > Just to be nosy, how much amps do the heated seats draw at 12 volts?
> >
>
> I can tell Charles and I are on the same page because of the question
> he asked just then.
>
> It could very well work, but you conversely could be very close to your
> capacity with the stuff you have running - the current you can draw
> does have some limit and you don't know how close you are to that limit
> now.
>
> I'd measure the current as it stands now and separately measure the
> current for the bunwarmer and make sure you don't exceed of the max
> (less a 10 percent margin, to be anal).
> If you blindly hooked the bunwarmer up to the present system, you may
> blow out the alternator's diodes (not a huge deal, but why find out
> this way, right) or you may get lucky and find it all works fine.
> I'd measure it to make sure it would work.
>
> If it works, it would make a very nice addition. I'd be jelous
>
> Remco

I sure hope I can get them working.

I'm going to try this regardless, if the alternator goes, so be it, its
32 years old, and its bound to go anytime. The seats will only be
turned on when I first go out and start the car, I then go back into
the house and let it warm up for around 10 to 15 minutes, or longer
depending on how cold it is outside. The winch, headlights and other
things are not operating at this time. Then, when its warmed up, I go
back out and start plowing. By that time, the gas heater has heated the
car up nicely, and the seats would be nice and warm. If I did continue
to keep the seat heater on, I would probably keep it on low. As it is,
I usually have the window wide open regardless of the temperature, as I
need to see when I back up. Half the time this car is in reverse. The
gas heater almost makes it too hot in there sometimes.

In the end, I probably wont use the heated seats much at all, but it
will be nice to have.

I'm really looking forward to the power windows (if I can get them to
work), as I roll the window up and down with nearly every trip up and
down my driveway. Funny thing is, we have had only 4 inches of snow
here so far this winter, usually we have at least 18 or more, so I only
used the PlowBug once yet.

Ryan.

You may have said so and I missed it but, what care are these seats out
of? Most cars that I can think of that come with heated seats are
pretty damn big and the seats wouldn't come close to fitting in a bug.

BTW. It wouldn't be that hard (or expensive) to wire up an external
diode pack for the alternator that would take more abuse than the stock one.

Tony

Cyclone Guy wrote:

> I sure hope I can get them working.
>
> I'm going to try this regardless, if the alternator goes, so be it, its
> 32 years old, and its bound to go anytime. The seats will only be
> turned on when I first go out and start the car, I then go back into
> the house and let it warm up for around 10 to 15 minutes, or longer
> depending on how cold it is outside. The winch, headlights and other
> things are not operating at this time. Then, when its warmed up, I go
> back out and start plowing. By that time, the gas heater has heated the
> car up nicely, and the seats would be nice and warm. If I did continue
> to keep the seat heater on, I would probably keep it on low. As it is,
> I usually have the window wide open regardless of the temperature, as I
> need to see when I back up. Half the time this car is in reverse. The
> gas heater almost makes it too hot in there sometimes.
>
> In the end, I probably wont use the heated seats much at all, but it
> will be nice to have.
>
> I'm really looking forward to the power windows (if I can get them to
> work), as I roll the window up and down with nearly every trip up and
> down my driveway. Funny thing is, we have had only 4 inches of snow
> here so far this winter, usually we have at least 18 or more, so I only
> used the PlowBug once yet.
>
> Ryan.
>