Blower works only on high

My wife has a 1996 Plymouth Voyager. She advised me that the blower for the
defrost, heating and cooling only works on the high setting. I found that
when the blower control switch is turned on it does not go on until it is
set to the high position. Removing the switch control unit is a simple
thing, but upon check with the Chrysler-Plymouth parts department, a new
switch control unit will cost $375. The problem is that the switch control
unit contols not only the blower but the vent adjustments, the rear window
and front window wiper controls. I don't want to put this money out only to
find that I may have had a faulty blower. Can anyone advise as to how to
determine if the blower control switch is bad or if the blower unit itself
is bad. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Regards,
Bill

On Sat, 15 Oct 2005 18:30:43 GMT, "Bill W"
> wrote:

>My wife has a 1996 Plymouth Voyager. She advised me that the blower for the
>defrost, heating and cooling only works on the high setting. I found that
>when the blower control switch is turned on it does not go on until it is
>set to the high position. Removing the switch control unit is a simple
>thing, but upon check with the Chrysler-Plymouth parts department, a new
>switch control unit will cost $375. The problem is that the switch control
>unit contols not only the blower but the vent adjustments, the rear window
>and front window wiper controls. I don't want to put this money out only to
>find that I may have had a faulty blower. Can anyone advise as to how to
>determine if the blower control switch is bad or if the blower unit itself
>is bad. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
>
>Regards,
>Bill
>

It is more likely the resistor block if they still use them. Get
yourself a cheap digital voltage meter and a factory service manual to
isolate which piece is bad.

Steve B.

You are describing the effects of a blown resistor pack. It will be in
the heater box's airflow someplace usually by the passenger feet I
think.

It is not really expensive, but when it goes it can mean the heater
motor is starting to draw too many amps so I recommend you check the
wires for heat once you have replaced it. Some actually get bad or
corroded connections right on the resistor pack which cause heat and
blows things.

If the wires run cool, then no issues.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Bill W wrote:
>
> My wife has a 1996 Plymouth Voyager. She advised me that the blower for the
> defrost, heating and cooling only works on the high setting. I found that
> when the blower control switch is turned on it does not go on until it is
> set to the high position. Removing the switch control unit is a simple
> thing, but upon check with the Chrysler-Plymouth parts department, a new
> switch control unit will cost $375. The problem is that the switch control
> unit contols not only the blower but the vent adjustments, the rear window
> and front window wiper controls. I don't want to put this money out only to
> find that I may have had a faulty blower. Can anyone advise as to how to
> determine if the blower control switch is bad or if the blower unit itself
> is bad. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
>
> Regards,
> Bill

>>My wife has a 1996 Plymouth Voyager. She advised me that the blower for
>>the
>>defrost, heating and cooling only works on the high setting. I found that
>>when the blower control switch is turned on it does not go on until it is
>>set to the high position. Removing the switch control unit is a simple
>>thing, but upon check with the Chrysler-Plymouth parts department, a new
>>switch control unit will cost $375. The problem is that the switch
>>control
>>unit contols not only the blower but the vent adjustments, the rear window
>>and front window wiper controls. I don't want to put this money out only
>>to
>>find that I may have had a faulty blower. Can anyone advise as to how to
>>determine if the blower control switch is bad or if the blower unit itself
>>is bad. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
>>
>>Regards,
>>Bill

The problem isn't in your switch, as I thought the same on a 95 geo
tracker.....I also own a 97 dodge caravan which in the manual for the blower
motor resistor block says it is located at the back of the engine
compartment on the passenger side of the vehicle under the wiper module. Be
careful when removing it as it may be hot....it also says to remove it you
need to:
insert a flat blade pry tool (i think they mean a screwdriver...lol) on the
side of the resistor block and push inward. The guide lines are shown on the
right hand edge of the resistor block to help guide the blade
position.....This will release the clips on the side of the resistor
block.... then you can pull it out....
I replaced the one in the tracker... it cost me 28 bucks.... and took me
3 minutes, but that one was screwed down, this one seems to be clipped in
place, so figture an extra 2 minutes....
The resistor block will have something plugged into it, so look for
that....

Good Luck..

Fwed

"Mike Romain" > wrote in message
...
> You are describing the effects of a blown resistor pack. It will be in
> the heater box's airflow someplace usually by the passenger feet I
> think.
>
> It is not really expensive, but when it goes it can mean the heater
> motor is starting to draw too many amps so I recommend you check the
> wires for heat once you have replaced it. Some actually get bad or
> corroded connections right on the resistor pack which cause heat and
> blows things.
>
> If the wires run cool, then no issues.
>
> Mike

Ive replace these a couple of times on my 1997 van, and it is almost
certainly
the resistor pack, not the blower switch, just as Mike Romain has said.
I paid $20 for the last one I bought.

You can, if you want, monitor the amperage on the blower when on high speed.
It should be 11-17 amps. If over 17, or if it is creeping, then the blower
motor
must be replaced or you will blow the new resistor pack in time.

The blower motor was $33 at Chrysler, and about $58 aftermarket.

Thanks for the help. The only thing I had to reference was a Haynes Manual
and the information provided was greatly appreciated. A $20 to $30 part is
a lot easier on the wallet than a $375 part that would have been totally
unneeded. I will give it a shot tomorrow. I shouldn't have any problem
based on the information that was provided.

Regards,
Bill

> Thanks for the help. The only thing I had to reference was a Haynes
> Manual and the information provided was greatly appreciated. A $20 to $30
> part is a lot easier on the wallet than a $375 part that would have been
> totally unneeded. I will give it a shot tomorrow. I shouldn't have any
> problem based on the information that was provided.
>
> Regards,
> Bill

No problem Bill......I remember having an 89 Celica that had the same
problem, and back then I thought it was in the control panel.....ut uh.....
lol.... so when the tracker had this problem, I knew right away what it
was.....and saved myself a little money.... well alot really....

Fwed