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#1
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How to lower a 68 Mustang
Any recommendation on the best way to lower a 68 Mustang? I tried
installing springs that were advertised to lower the car 1" and improve the handling. All they accomplished was to make the ride a lot stiffer and they didn't lower the car at all. I'm looking for a 1" drop. Chris |
#2
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"Chris Bergquist" > wrote in message ... > Any recommendation on the best way to lower a 68 Mustang? I tried > installing springs that were advertised to lower the car 1" and improve > the handling. All they accomplished was to make the ride a lot stiffer > and they didn't lower the car at all. I'm looking for a 1" drop. > > Chris > airbags |
#3
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Chris Bergquist wrote:
> Any recommendation on the best way to lower a 68 Mustang? I tried > installing springs that were advertised to lower the car 1" and improve > the handling. All they accomplished was to make the ride a lot stiffer > and they didn't lower the car at all. I'm looking for a 1" drop. > > Chris > My first reaction is "Sell it to someone who appreciates good cars, and go screw up a Honda or something no one cares about." :-p But in recent years, I HAVE seen older cars tastefully lowered with nice wheels (not "bling") so my knee doesn't jerk quite as hard as it used to. For lowering the front end, a "drop spindle" setup is far better than altering the springs, because shorter springs are by necessity going to be harsh. A drop spindle lets you keep the full suspension travel and spring compliance while lowering the ride height by shifting the wheel upward relative to the suspension components. Options for the rear are similar- as long as you don't want a HUGE drop, you can use spacer blocks that raise the axle relative to the spring, once again allowing you to keep the full suspension travel. But taller blocks are more sensitive to breaking under high torque, so a lot of lowering does not mix well with high performance. |
#4
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I had a '65 Rustang that I installed a Global West suspension kit on.
It necessitated removing the front upper A-arms and drilling new boltholes to relocate the arms higher up in the vehicle. The kit came wth new rear leaf springs. It was VERY stiff, and very low, but handled great. Although the ride was firm, I wouldn't characterize it as uncomfortable; maybe because it was controlled and not bouncy. |
#5
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On 11 Dec 2004 08:41:02 -0800, "Miki" > wrote:
||I had a '65 Rustang that I installed a Global West suspension kit on. ||It necessitated removing the front upper A-arms and drilling new ||boltholes to relocate the arms higher up in the vehicle. The kit came ||wth new rear leaf springs. It was VERY stiff, and very low, but ||handled great. Although the ride was firm, I wouldn't characterize it ||as uncomfortable; maybe because it was controlled and not bouncy. I was going to suggest this. Relocating the upper A-arms improves the geometry and lowers the front slightly. All Shelby Mustangs had this mod at the Shelby plant. This is the first thing to do to any early Mustang (or Falcon) that is going to see road-racing-type duty. And it's free Texas Parts Guy |
#6
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1) Lift car and place securely on jack stands at all four corners. 2) Remove wheels and tires. 3) Remove jack stands. Now the car's nice 'n' low. |
#7
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"Daniel J. Stern" wrote:
> > 1) Lift car and place securely on jack stands at all four corners. > > 2) Remove wheels and tires. > > 3) Remove jack stands. > > Now the car's nice 'n' low. There's an outfit near me that has a machine that can lower just about any car. They put the car in it and when its finished, its about 12 inches high. -- Paul Hovnanian ------------------------------------------------------------------ I think you left the stove on. |
#8
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On Wed, 15 Dec 2004, Paul Hovnanian P.E. wrote:
> > 1) Lift car and place securely on jack stands at all four corners. > > 2) Remove wheels and tires. > > 3) Remove jack stands. > > Now the car's nice 'n' low. > There's an outfit near me that has a machine that can lower just about > any car. They put the car in it and when its finished, its about 12 > inches high. *heh* |
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