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1990 Dodge Omni-SMEC/Volt. reg. prob.
'90 Omni 2.2L,non-turbo,a/t,sgl. TBI,NO a/c.Alt. volt. regulator
bad;apparently located IN the main SMEC (computer,under the hood).Any info. concerning this subject? Already know to R & R the SMEC itself...having trouble finding one.Any other knowledge about rewiring,replacing the volt. reg. itself w/in the SMEC??? |
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From rec.autos.makers.chrysler.. Ping DS and tell him thanks !!
----- Original Message ----- From: "Daniel J. Stern" > Newsgroups: sci.electronics.misc,alt.autos.gm,rec.autos.makers .chrysler Sent: Friday, November 19, 2004 1:14 PM Subject: alternator circuit question > On Fri, 19 Nov 2004, Jon G. wrote: > >> I have a 91 Plymouth Acclaim, and the alternator doesn't charge the >> battery. I took the alternator out and had it tested, and there's >> nothing wrong with it. I put a new battery in it, but it still won't >> charge. I checked the fuseable link from the alternator to the battery, >> and there is continuity. Therefore, it must be the computer. > > The regulator is a part of the Single Board Engine Controller, yes. > >> there are 4 connections on the alternator > >> L1: direct to battery, positive >> L2: direct to battery, negative >> c1: small wire, logic, to computer, activates diode >> c2: small wire, logic, to computer, also battery ground. > > What you are calling "logic" wires are the field wires. > >> I want to activate the alternator continuously and put on an >> external voltage regulator. > > <etc> > > The way you plan to do it will not work. > > Here is a fix that *will* work, without replacing the engine computer and > without causing any additional problems: > > First, pick one of the following regulators: > > Regular normal electromechanical regulator: > NAPA Echlin VR32 > > Extra heavy duty electromechanical regulator w/vibrationproof mount: > NAPA Echlin VR34 > > Extra heavy duty electromechanical regulator w/vibrationproof mount and > convenient external voltage adjustment screw: > NAPA Echlin VR35, Standard-Bluestreak VR106 > > Transistorized regulator with no moving parts (no adjusting screw): > Standard-Bluestreak VR101, Wells VR706 (the wells item is very > inexpensive; it works but Wells doesn't make my favourite stuff) > > Waterproof potted IC regulator with no moving parts (no adjusting screw): > NAPA Echlin VR1001, Standard-Bluestreak VR128 > > > Any of these regulators will have two terminals on it, one marked "IGN" > and the other marked "FLD". (the VR1001 and VR128 have the "fld" terminal > on the end of a short wire lead). The alternator gets the original C1 and > C2 wires removed from its two field terminals (right next to each other, > small studs with nuts retaining the two flag terminals). > > The regulator IGN terminal gets 12V via the ignition switch, and the "FLD" > terminal gets connected via a wire to one (either) of the field terminals > on the alternator. The other field terminal on the alternator gets > connected via a wire to ground. Run a ground wire -- 16ga is plenty -- > between the regulator base and the battery negative terminal, and mount > the regulator such that it won't rock 'n' roll around. At this point, your > charging system will once again work fine. If you got the adjustable > regulator, set it for 14.2v across the battery with the engine fully > warmed up and ambient temperature above 50F. > > If your "Check Engine" light comes on, put a resistor across the two > original field wires C1 and C2 before securing these wires such that they > can't ground out or get caught in any moving parts. > > Close the hood; you're done. |
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