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#11
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[snip]
>Well first of all you need to find out what cylinder is causing the problem, >it sounds as if the adaptive numerator needs to be relearned in order for >the engine controller to determine what cylinder is causing the problem. >Take vehicle on a test drive and get it up to operating temperature, in >second gear go about 40 mph and then let go of the accelerator pedal and >let the vehicle coast down to about 25mph. This will cause the computer to >learn the crankshaft values and be able to set a fault code for which >cylinder is misfiring. > >Glenn Beasley >Chrysler Tech Glen, The code is P0305 (misfire on #5 cylinder). The garage said this is the same cylinder that had problems before and "its because the oil is just sitting down there because the heads are so plugged up the oil can't be pumped away from the plugs and theres not enough pressure to power the lifters". "You need to spend about $900 and have these heads reworked to solve this problem". Their argument for further proof is that when the engine is left idling for 20 minutes or so it begins blowing clouds of grey smoke out the tailpipe but when driven for a mile or so the smoke goes away. They say thats an oil pressure issue and at high rpms the oil gets pumped away from the lifters. The absolute lack of logic in their argument has me seriously doubting their diagnosis. Your thoughts? Phil |
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#12
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On Mon, 06 Jun 2005 17:58:51 -0400, Howdy >
wrote: >The code is P0305 (misfire on #5 cylinder). The garage said this is >the same cylinder that had problems before and "its because the oil is >just sitting down there because the heads are so plugged up the oil >can't be pumped away from the plugs and theres not enough pressure to >power the lifters". "You need to spend about $900 and have these >heads reworked to solve this problem". It is possible for the drain holes in the heads to get clogged up causing the oil to collect in the valve cover area. I have only seen this happen on very sludged up engines or some older GM stuff where the rubber valve stem seals got brittle, broke and then got stuck in the drain holes. In any case you shouldn't need head work to cure an oil draining problem. Take off the valve cover and check the drains. If they are clogged clean them out. Very easy to see if this is really the issue. Steve B. |
#13
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"Howdy" > wrote in message ... > [snip] > >Well first of all you need to find out what cylinder is causing the problem, > >it sounds as if the adaptive numerator needs to be relearned in order for > >the engine controller to determine what cylinder is causing the problem. > >Take vehicle on a test drive and get it up to operating temperature, in > >second gear go about 40 mph and then let go of the accelerator pedal and > >let the vehicle coast down to about 25mph. This will cause the computer to > >learn the crankshaft values and be able to set a fault code for which > >cylinder is misfiring. > > > >Glenn Beasley > >Chrysler Tech > > Glen, > > The code is P0305 (misfire on #5 cylinder). The garage said this is > the same cylinder that had problems before and "its because the oil is > just sitting down there because the heads are so plugged up the oil > can't be pumped away from the plugs and theres not enough pressure to > power the lifters". "You need to spend about $900 and have these > heads reworked to solve this problem". > > Their argument for further proof is that when the engine is left > idling for 20 minutes or so it begins blowing clouds of grey smoke out > the tailpipe but when driven for a mile or so the smoke goes away. > They say thats an oil pressure issue and at high rpms the oil gets > pumped away from the lifters. > > The absolute lack of logic in their argument has me seriously doubting > their diagnosis. > > Your thoughts? > > Phil I have no idea what they are telling you, Only you know if the vehicle has been maintained properly. sure if you don't change the oil and perform the routine maintenance the heads could get stopped up and sludged up. Do you smell strong odors of fuel when this happens? With out looking at the adaptive fuel memory on the scan tool it would be hard to tell what is actually going on. Have you taken this vehicle to a dealer with a good reputation or another independent shop that knows the system? Because what they are telling you doesn't make any sense to me |
#14
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[snip]
I my shop read the codes from the PCM and it was a P0305. I replaced all the plugs, checked the plug wires, rotor and distributor cap and everything was fine... Problem is, it still misses and backfires!!! ARGGGHHHHH!!!!! |
#15
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wrong plug wires or a failing dist.
Phil wrote: > [snip] > > I my shop read the codes from the PCM and it was a P0305. I replaced > all the plugs, checked the plug wires, rotor and distributor cap and > everything was fine... > > Problem is, it still misses and backfires!!! > > ARGGGHHHHH!!!!! |
#16
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Three more questions:
Does anyone know where I can "borrow" a code reader? I'm unemployed and a single dad and I can't afford to take this thing to a shop (and I'm in north Atlanta). Second, what is the sensor which is located on the upper intake manifold just in front of the MAP sensor? Tim bur suggested that I replace the plugwires, this is the second set... also suggested I replace the distributor... how do I check out the distributor to see if its faulty? |
#17
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"Phil" > wrote in message ... > Does anyone know where I can "borrow" a code reader? I'm unemployed > and a single dad and I can't afford to take this thing to a shop (and > I'm in north Atlanta). Autozone reads engine codes from OBD-II equipped vehicles for free. Bob |
#18
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AutoZone read the PCM codes... came up with two more than my FORMER
garage. The three codes a P0113 - Input from the Intake Air Tempurature sensor is higher than expected P0108 - Input from the MAP sensor is higher than expected for the current engine operating conditions. P0305 - miss on cylinder 5. The autozone guy said it sounded like a short was causing the IAT & MAP sensors to misbehave. How can I test the MAP and IAT circuits? |
#19
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On Wed, 15 Jun 2005 22:26:48 -0400, tim bur > wrote:
>wrong plug wires or a failing dist. Doesn't make sense... otherwise why would the engine run fine at high RPMs or when the engine is cold? See the other posting on the new codes... |
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