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#1
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CV joints on Toyota Corolla
My girlfriend had the tires on her car swapped for studded
winter tires at Les Schwab, and they told her that the car needs the CV joints replaced, and now she's bugging me to replace them!! I never had a FWD car, so I don't know much about CV joints. So, questions: a) what would be the symptoms of worn CV joints? b) how do I check them; I mean what do I need to look for? c) what happens when the CV joints get very worn? d) can I just lubricate them? (my guess that they may be low on grease) e) they quoted about $80 or so for labor, is that a good price? I have driven said car (early 90's or late 80's station wagon with around 200k on it) a couple of times, and I didn't feel anything wrong with it aside from not having much power, so I have a feeling that even though the CV joints may be slightly worn, they're fine, or not bad enough that they need to be replaced. TIA |
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#2
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The classic symptom is a clicking noise when racked around in a tight
turn, though there are other signs of a problem, e.g., a bent half-shaft, or rubber boots that ruptured an unknown amount of time ago, allowing contamination of what is supposed to be a sealed system and escape of its grease, that your mechanic might be keying on. Although it is usually possible to replace only the particular part tht is bad, the trend (at least with high-volume vehicles like that) is toward unit replacement of everything on one side -- the joints, the rubber boots that enclose them, and the half-shaft. The price of digging out just one of the components and reassembling it all tends to be dominated by labor costs, besides which (especially in an older car) you'd still have some questionable older components mixed in with the new ones and might just have to do it all over again. They are usually greased upon installation, not as a routine maintenance item. At two hundred thou, you've gotten your money's worth out of them. I would in fact do both sides, since they've all been exposed to the same conditions and use for a similar time. For some background, see http://www.autosite.com/garage/repairqa/ques111.asp oand http://www.alldata.com/techtips/1998/19980921b.html Cheers, --Joe |
#3
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Thanks, I'll take a look at soon, and do some test drive, too.
I don't think the CV joints are original, BTW. "Ad absurdum per aspera" > wrote in message oups.com... >[...] > At two hundred thou, you've gotten your money's worth out of them. I > would in fact do both sides, since they've all been exposed to the same > conditions and use for a similar time. > > > For some background, see > http://www.autosite.com/garage/repairqa/ques111.asp > oand > http://www.alldata.com/techtips/1998/19980921b.html > > Cheers, > --Joe > |
#4
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Check the rubber boots. The usual reason for the joints to go bad is the boot gets torn and the grease inside is replaced by dirt and salt. If the boots are intact and there is not a lot of play in the joints I would not change anything. aurgathor wrote: > > Thanks, I'll take a look at soon, and do some test drive, too. > I don't think the CV joints are original, BTW. > -- Mike Walsh West Palm Beach, Florida, U.S.A. |
#5
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