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need haynes manual



 
 
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  #21  
Old November 20th 04, 01:04 AM
Tanya
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Joe Pfeiffer wrote:

> Tanya > writes:
>
> > Tanya wrote:
> >
> > > hi
> > > (x-posted)
> > > i need a haynes manual for the following:
> > > mitsubishi / dodge / plymouth / chrysler (same car) 1989 colt (model
> > > 200) (?2000 series)


<snip>

> > i have the fsm -- i need something simpler (that explains more simply) as an
> > adjunct to the fsm.

>
> To elaborate a little on my earlier comment -- one of the many reasons
> you don't want Haynes is that the way they "simplify" is by leaving
> out steps.


i would not rely only on the simpler books but use it / them as a guideline and
follow the fsm etc.

> > (please do NOT tell me i should not be working on a car if i cannot
> > understand the fsm or similar
> > any suggestions (relating to a book) would be very much appreciated
> > thanks in advance!

>
> Asking questions is probably the best bet.


my questions are stupid... how to access certain parts (what parts i need to
remove).
what type of tools are needed for replacing spark-plugs (for that vehicle) etc.
the tool issue is the primary question for now. my haynes manual for my other car
lists what i would need <clearly> i imagine it is accurate wrt the list of tools
-- i should hope -- maybe not?
thanks!
sincerely
Tanya


>
> --
> Joseph J. Pfeiffer, Jr., Ph.D. Phone -- (505) 646-1605
> Department of Computer Science FAX -- (505) 646-1002
> New Mexico State University http://www.cs.nmsu.edu/~pfeiffer





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  #22  
Old November 20th 04, 01:06 AM
Tanya
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Posts: n/a
Default

thank you for the link!
sincerely
Tanya

Richie Rich wrote:

> Not a fan of these manuals, but here's a link to a chiltons book.
>
> http://www.delmarlearning.com/browse...n=080199 0629
>
> "Tanya" > wrote in message
> ...
> > hi
> > (x-posted)
> > i need a haynes manual for the following:
> > mitsubishi / dodge / plymouth / chrysler (same car) 1989 colt (model
> > 200) (?2000 series)
> > it has a 1.5 l engine; 4 cylinders; mpi; automatic transmission; 4 door;

>





  #23  
Old November 20th 04, 01:06 AM
Tanya
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

thank you for the link!
sincerely
Tanya

Richie Rich wrote:

> Not a fan of these manuals, but here's a link to a chiltons book.
>
> http://www.delmarlearning.com/browse...n=080199 0629
>
> "Tanya" > wrote in message
> ...
> > hi
> > (x-posted)
> > i need a haynes manual for the following:
> > mitsubishi / dodge / plymouth / chrysler (same car) 1989 colt (model
> > 200) (?2000 series)
> > it has a 1.5 l engine; 4 cylinders; mpi; automatic transmission; 4 door;

>





  #24  
Old November 20th 04, 01:18 AM
Matt Whiting
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Default

Tanya wrote:

> Tanya wrote:
>
>
>>hi
>>(x-posted)
>>i need a haynes manual for the following:
>>mitsubishi / dodge / plymouth / chrysler (same car) 1989 colt (model
>>200) (?2000 series)

>
>
> <snip>
> thank you (Matt, Joe, Mike, and Daniel (also for the link on the
> instructions) ...
> i get the picture.
> i have the fsm -- i need something simpler (that explains more simply) as an
> adjunct to the fsm.
> (please do NOT tell me i should not be working on a car if i cannot
> understand the fsm or similar
> any suggestions (relating to a book) would be very much appreciated
> thanks in advance!


I wouldn't look to Haynes for that. I'd look for a general textbook on
auto repair, in the short term. In the long term, I'd sign up for a
class or two at a local Votech school.


Matt

  #25  
Old November 20th 04, 01:18 AM
Matt Whiting
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Tanya wrote:

> Tanya wrote:
>
>
>>hi
>>(x-posted)
>>i need a haynes manual for the following:
>>mitsubishi / dodge / plymouth / chrysler (same car) 1989 colt (model
>>200) (?2000 series)

>
>
> <snip>
> thank you (Matt, Joe, Mike, and Daniel (also for the link on the
> instructions) ...
> i get the picture.
> i have the fsm -- i need something simpler (that explains more simply) as an
> adjunct to the fsm.
> (please do NOT tell me i should not be working on a car if i cannot
> understand the fsm or similar
> any suggestions (relating to a book) would be very much appreciated
> thanks in advance!


I wouldn't look to Haynes for that. I'd look for a general textbook on
auto repair, in the short term. In the long term, I'd sign up for a
class or two at a local Votech school.


Matt

  #26  
Old November 20th 04, 04:58 AM
Geoff
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Tanya" > wrote in message
...
> "Daniel J. Stern" wrote:
>
>> On Fri, 19 Nov 2004, Tanya wrote:
>>
>> > i have the fsm -- i need something simpler (that explains more simply)
>> > as an
>> > adjunct to the fsm.

>>
>> Thing is, the Haynes or Chilton book *won't* do that. What is it that
>> you're having trouble understanding? Perhaps a basic automotive theory
>> and
>> nomenclature book would do the job...
>> >
>> >

>
> hi and thanks for answering!
> basically i have S.T.U.P.I.D. questions (for ex: what tools i would need)
> this is
> in the haynes manual for my other car --
> i would NOT follow haynes / chiltons for procedures if they were outlined
> in the
> fsm.


Hi, Tanya.

Why don't you try posting about what task you want to perform, and we will
give you an idea as to what tools you need to get the job done properly.
Meanwhile, we'll assume you have some basic things you need for most
automotive repairs:

Basic Tools
o Socket sets: 1/2" and 3/8" drive, both SAE and metric sizes. Extensions
for same; the more and longer the better.
o Box-end or combination open-end/box-end wrenches. SAE and metric sizes.
o Pliers. You can frequently get away with a standard pair, but
adjustables come in handy. Needle-nosed pliers are especially useful as
well.
o Wire cutter/stripping tool. You don't need anything fancy.
o Screwdrivers. A selection of both Phillips and flat-blades. Long,
skinny flat-blades are often handy.
o A utility knife, or other similar instrument.
o Hammer. If you have a typical claw hammer, it will do. A ball-peen
hammer is useful.
o Rubber or (less desirable) wooden mallet. Used for "gently" "persuading"
things, where a regular hammer would damage parts.
o Scraping tool -- a putty knife or razor-blade scraper will suffice. You
may also require a plastic scraper if you're going to be removing old gasket
material from soft aluminum surfaces.
o A pry (or crow) bar of some sort.
o A magnetic tool, usually telescoping, for retrieving dropped fasteners or
sockets
o An oil drain pan
o A small floor jack and a pair of jack stands. Choose carefully if you're
working on a large SUV; some are heavier than the rating on the less
expensive jacks/stands, and are too high off the ground to be lifted.
o Something to block the wheels when lifting the vehicle with the jack. A
couple of bricks work fine.
o A shop light, with a steel or plastic protective cage surrounding the
bulb. An inexpensive incandescent light works fine, but you'll want to
spend an extra dollar or two for the 'rough service' lightbulbs.

Consumables
o A wire brush
o An aerosol can of penetrating lubricant.
o An aerosol can of carburetor cleaner or brake parts cleaner
o A small blowtorch and a cylinder of propane, along with matches or a
spark igniter
o An abundance of old rags, paper towels and a good waterless hand cleaner.
Lava soap works as well.
o A roll of electrical tape

There are obviously many, many other items you could add to this list.
These are probably the bare minimum you will want to have to tackle light
repair work. Being that winter is setting in for many parts of the country,
you will likely need to find a sheltered location to do your work.

If you're going to be doing much at all, add a torque wrench to the list
above. You'll probably actually want two: one with a range in inch-pounds
for small fasteners, and one with a range in foot-pounds for larger
fasteners. Basic units start around $25, but the quality is questionable.

--Geoff


  #27  
Old November 20th 04, 04:58 AM
Geoff
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Tanya" > wrote in message
...
> "Daniel J. Stern" wrote:
>
>> On Fri, 19 Nov 2004, Tanya wrote:
>>
>> > i have the fsm -- i need something simpler (that explains more simply)
>> > as an
>> > adjunct to the fsm.

>>
>> Thing is, the Haynes or Chilton book *won't* do that. What is it that
>> you're having trouble understanding? Perhaps a basic automotive theory
>> and
>> nomenclature book would do the job...
>> >
>> >

>
> hi and thanks for answering!
> basically i have S.T.U.P.I.D. questions (for ex: what tools i would need)
> this is
> in the haynes manual for my other car --
> i would NOT follow haynes / chiltons for procedures if they were outlined
> in the
> fsm.


Hi, Tanya.

Why don't you try posting about what task you want to perform, and we will
give you an idea as to what tools you need to get the job done properly.
Meanwhile, we'll assume you have some basic things you need for most
automotive repairs:

Basic Tools
o Socket sets: 1/2" and 3/8" drive, both SAE and metric sizes. Extensions
for same; the more and longer the better.
o Box-end or combination open-end/box-end wrenches. SAE and metric sizes.
o Pliers. You can frequently get away with a standard pair, but
adjustables come in handy. Needle-nosed pliers are especially useful as
well.
o Wire cutter/stripping tool. You don't need anything fancy.
o Screwdrivers. A selection of both Phillips and flat-blades. Long,
skinny flat-blades are often handy.
o A utility knife, or other similar instrument.
o Hammer. If you have a typical claw hammer, it will do. A ball-peen
hammer is useful.
o Rubber or (less desirable) wooden mallet. Used for "gently" "persuading"
things, where a regular hammer would damage parts.
o Scraping tool -- a putty knife or razor-blade scraper will suffice. You
may also require a plastic scraper if you're going to be removing old gasket
material from soft aluminum surfaces.
o A pry (or crow) bar of some sort.
o A magnetic tool, usually telescoping, for retrieving dropped fasteners or
sockets
o An oil drain pan
o A small floor jack and a pair of jack stands. Choose carefully if you're
working on a large SUV; some are heavier than the rating on the less
expensive jacks/stands, and are too high off the ground to be lifted.
o Something to block the wheels when lifting the vehicle with the jack. A
couple of bricks work fine.
o A shop light, with a steel or plastic protective cage surrounding the
bulb. An inexpensive incandescent light works fine, but you'll want to
spend an extra dollar or two for the 'rough service' lightbulbs.

Consumables
o A wire brush
o An aerosol can of penetrating lubricant.
o An aerosol can of carburetor cleaner or brake parts cleaner
o A small blowtorch and a cylinder of propane, along with matches or a
spark igniter
o An abundance of old rags, paper towels and a good waterless hand cleaner.
Lava soap works as well.
o A roll of electrical tape

There are obviously many, many other items you could add to this list.
These are probably the bare minimum you will want to have to tackle light
repair work. Being that winter is setting in for many parts of the country,
you will likely need to find a sheltered location to do your work.

If you're going to be doing much at all, add a torque wrench to the list
above. You'll probably actually want two: one with a range in inch-pounds
for small fasteners, and one with a range in foot-pounds for larger
fasteners. Basic units start around $25, but the quality is questionable.

--Geoff


  #28  
Old November 20th 04, 10:29 AM
Ted Mittelstaedt
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Tanya" > wrote in message
...
> Joe Pfeiffer wrote:
>
> >
> > Asking questions is probably the best bet.

>
> my questions are stupid... how to access certain parts (what parts i need

to
> remove).


Tanya, if you read the section in the FSM and don't understand it, your
questions aren't going to be stupid.

Some joker asked if he could feed his car vegetables a couple days ago
in rec.autos.tech, THAT is a stupid question.

You may not think so but it is as easy as pie to tell the difference between
a fool who doesen't have a FSM and asks a stupid question, and someone
who does have a FSM, reads the pertinent section, then asks questions.

In fact questions like this are why we all bother reading this ng.

> what type of tools are needed for replacing spark-plugs (for that vehicle)

etc.

You aren't going to help yourself by asking something like this and not
telling
us why.

Here's a start, you can let me know if I'm wrong or not:

"My car is running like crap and I want to do a basic tuneup to eliminate
obvious bull****, so I'm replacing the coil/plugs/wires, I read the FSM and
what tools should I use"

Ted


  #29  
Old November 20th 04, 10:29 AM
Ted Mittelstaedt
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Tanya" > wrote in message
...
> Joe Pfeiffer wrote:
>
> >
> > Asking questions is probably the best bet.

>
> my questions are stupid... how to access certain parts (what parts i need

to
> remove).


Tanya, if you read the section in the FSM and don't understand it, your
questions aren't going to be stupid.

Some joker asked if he could feed his car vegetables a couple days ago
in rec.autos.tech, THAT is a stupid question.

You may not think so but it is as easy as pie to tell the difference between
a fool who doesen't have a FSM and asks a stupid question, and someone
who does have a FSM, reads the pertinent section, then asks questions.

In fact questions like this are why we all bother reading this ng.

> what type of tools are needed for replacing spark-plugs (for that vehicle)

etc.

You aren't going to help yourself by asking something like this and not
telling
us why.

Here's a start, you can let me know if I'm wrong or not:

"My car is running like crap and I want to do a basic tuneup to eliminate
obvious bull****, so I'm replacing the coil/plugs/wires, I read the FSM and
what tools should I use"

Ted


  #30  
Old November 21st 04, 02:42 AM
Tanya
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

hi Geoff
thanks very much for posting the tool list!
i REALLY appreciate it
i *do* have some of tools that you mention...
thanks again
sincerely,
Tanya


Geoff wrote:

> > hi and thanks for answering!
> > basically i have S.T.U.P.I.D. questions (for ex: what tools i would need)
> > this is
> > in the haynes manual for my other car --
> > i would NOT follow haynes / chiltons for procedures if they were outlined
> > in the
> > fsm.

>
> Hi, Tanya.
>
> Why don't you try posting about what task you want to perform, and we will
> give you an idea as to what tools you need to get the job done properly.
> Meanwhile, we'll assume you have some basic things you need for most
> automotive repairs:
>
> Basic Tools
> o Socket sets: 1/2" and 3/8" drive, both SAE and metric sizes. Extensions
> for same; the more and longer the better.
> o Box-end or combination open-end/box-end wrenches. SAE and metric sizes.
> o Pliers. You can frequently get away with a standard pair, but
> adjustables come in handy. Needle-nosed pliers are especially useful as
> well.
> o Wire cutter/stripping tool. You don't need anything fancy.
> o Screwdrivers. A selection of both Phillips and flat-blades. Long,
> skinny flat-blades are often handy.
> o A utility knife, or other similar instrument.
> o Hammer. If you have a typical claw hammer, it will do. A ball-peen
> hammer is useful.
> o Rubber or (less desirable) wooden mallet. Used for "gently" "persuading"
> things, where a regular hammer would damage parts.
> o Scraping tool -- a putty knife or razor-blade scraper will suffice. You
> may also require a plastic scraper if you're going to be removing old gasket
> material from soft aluminum surfaces.
> o A pry (or crow) bar of some sort.
> o A magnetic tool, usually telescoping, for retrieving dropped fasteners or
> sockets
> o An oil drain pan
> o A small floor jack and a pair of jack stands. Choose carefully if you're
> working on a large SUV; some are heavier than the rating on the less
> expensive jacks/stands, and are too high off the ground to be lifted.
> o Something to block the wheels when lifting the vehicle with the jack. A
> couple of bricks work fine.
> o A shop light, with a steel or plastic protective cage surrounding the
> bulb. An inexpensive incandescent light works fine, but you'll want to
> spend an extra dollar or two for the 'rough service' lightbulbs.
>
> Consumables
> o A wire brush
> o An aerosol can of penetrating lubricant.
> o An aerosol can of carburetor cleaner or brake parts cleaner
> o A small blowtorch and a cylinder of propane, along with matches or a
> spark igniter
> o An abundance of old rags, paper towels and a good waterless hand cleaner.
> Lava soap works as well.
> o A roll of electrical tape
>
> There are obviously many, many other items you could add to this list.
> These are probably the bare minimum you will want to have to tackle light
> repair work. Being that winter is setting in for many parts of the country,
> you will likely need to find a sheltered location to do your work.
>
> If you're going to be doing much at all, add a torque wrench to the list
> above. You'll probably actually want two: one with a range in inch-pounds
> for small fasteners, and one with a range in foot-pounds for larger
> fasteners. Basic units start around $25, but the quality is questionable.
>
> --Geoff





 




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