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#11
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Dan, your point is well taken, but all of the submersible units offered on
those sites for domestic sales are red units only. One needs a submersible amber unit and I did not find that listed, just amber side lights with reflectors. Richard. |
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#12
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Richard
Unless the lights are immersed a lot perhaps just drilling some drain holes in the bottom and using some grease on the electrical contacts would be "good enough". I've used this technique with success in fresh water -- don't know about salt. |
#13
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On Fri, 22 Jul 2005, it was written:
> Dan, your point is well taken, but all of the submersible units offered > on those sites for domestic sales are red units only. One needs a > submersible amber unit and I did not find that listed, just amber side > lights with reflectors. Check the 2nd post I made, with specific links to specific lamps. |
#14
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joke is one you! the pt cruiser does not have a bcm
Jeff Falkiner wrote: > "Daniel J. Stern" > wrote in message > .umich.edu... > > On Wed, 20 Jul 2005, jimhigh66 wrote: > > > > > it looks like the brake and turn-sig are separate bulbs--ie they don't > > > use the same filament for brake and turn-sig like a lot of cars do. An > > > interface module should only essentially consist of a pair of diodes > > > each side to drive the single filament on the trailer from either/both > > > brake and turn-sig circuits while keeping them separate in the Cruiser. > > > > That's what the "light converter/interface" units for sale at every U-Haul > > location do, yes. > > > > I've seen so many of these working improperly on the road. They seem to > > have the standard 50/50 durability thing going (50 miles or 50 minutes, > > whichever occurs first). > > > > If I were pulling a trailer with a vehicle that had separate brake and > > turn lights, I'd just add separate turn lights to the trailer and avoid > > messing with Rube Goldberg "converter" devices. > > I went to the dealer and bought the MOPAR harness, complete with "converter" > for my 1999 Intrepid. Except for the LARGE hole I had to drill behind the > right taillight, it was a slick install - plug and play. Still going strong > and working fine 6 years and 100K miles later. It was a bit of coin (~$70 > CDN), but comparable in price to the "plug-and-play" Reese units sold by the > local parts stores. Makes for a well sealed, robust installation. > > Two notes: > The "converter" isolates the BCM which controls the signals from the trailer > lights - common trailer shorts don't roast your BCM. > Also, the common method of testing the turn/brake lights by turning on the > hazards and checking the bulbs doesn't do the trick any more - you need to > also have someone check to see that the brake lights come on when you step > on them in the car - to make sure the "converter" is still working properly. > > -- > Jeff Falkiner > 95 neon - the Road Rocket > 99 Intrepid - the Green Monster > 04 Sebring - the Silver Bullet |
#15
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drawtite sells the device you want and it can be bought a walmarts even
it changes the wiring from a 6 wire lite circuit to a 4 wire circuit most trailers have N8N wrote: > Richard wrote: > > Just put a new set of trailer lights on and could not find a set anywhere > > that sported amber turn segments. I assume this is a common item in the rest > > of the world. > > > > Richard. > > just buy separate amber lights, no big deal. > > nate |
#16
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**** that, go to walmart buy the drawtite box and get it done
"Daniel J. Stern" wrote: > On Fri, 22 Jul 2005, it was written: > > > Dan, your point is well taken, but all of the submersible units offered > > on those sites for domestic sales are red units only. One needs a > > submersible amber unit and I did not find that listed, just amber side > > lights with reflectors. > > Check the 2nd post I made, with specific links to specific lamps. |
#17
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"jimhigh66" > wrote in message lkaboutautos.com... > Richard > Unless the lights are immersed a lot perhaps just drilling some drain > holes in the bottom and using some grease on the electrical contacts would > be "good enough". I've used this technique with success in fresh water -- > don't know about salt. > Pure water is an insulator, not a conductor. It is what gets dissolved in it that acts as a conductor. Salt for example makes water into an excellent conductor. Soapy bathtub and sink water also make good conductors. Dissolved iron, AKA rust, also works well to make water into a conductor. But for your average fresh water resivour you can go to the boat launch and watch them backing into the lake, and see the brake lights going even under water, then watch them pull out and see the water come pouring out of the light housings. Ted |
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