does anyone make stainless steel exhaust studs?

subject line says all... am getting a pair of "cast headers" for my
Stude project and would like to use stainless studs with brass nuts for
the manifold to downpipe connection. The stock pieces used coarse
thread on the manifold end and fine on the flange end. Does anyone make
anything like this or is my best option to get some stainless all thread
and use coarse thread nuts?

thanks,

nate

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Nate Nagel > writes:

> subject line says all... am getting a pair of "cast headers" for my
> Stude project and would like to use stainless studs with brass nuts
> for the manifold to downpipe connection. The stock pieces used coarse
> thread on the manifold end and fine on the flange end. Does anyone
> make anything like this or is my best option to get some stainless all
> thread and use coarse thread nuts?

Check:

http://arpfasteners.com/

>
> thanks,
>
> nate
>

Nate Nagel wrote:
> subject line says all... am getting a pair of "cast headers" for my
> Stude project and would like to use stainless studs with brass nuts for
> the manifold to downpipe connection. The stock pieces used coarse
> thread on the manifold end and fine on the flange end. Does anyone make
> anything like this or is my best option to get some stainless all thread
> and use coarse thread nuts?
>
> thanks,
>
> nate
>


http://www.classicchevy.com/product....6&dept_id=1261

https://www.nextgenparts.net/serverf...A11795&Style=2

https://www.paddockparts.com/Paddock...1440 2C56D819



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Steve Walker
(remove wallet to reply)

"Thomas Tornblom" > wrote in message
...

> Check:
>
> http://arpfasteners.com/

ARP is a good company to deal with, in my experience.

"HLS" > wrote in news:uumjl.16311$yr3.11608
@nlpi068.nbdc.sbc.com:

>
> "Thomas Tornblom" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>> Check:
>>
>> http://arpfasteners.com/
>
> ARP is a good company to deal with, in my experience.
>




Why are exhaust manifold studs made of brass in the first place?


--
Tegger

Tegger wrote:
> "HLS" > wrote in news:uumjl.16311$yr3.11608
> @nlpi068.nbdc.sbc.com:
>
>> "Thomas Tornblom" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>
>>> Check:
>>>
>>> http://arpfasteners.com/
>> ARP is a good company to deal with, in my experience.
>>
>
> Why are exhaust manifold studs made of brass in the first place?
>

IME they're not, but the nuts are. Steel nuts would rust tight to the
studs; worst case you can burn brass ones off with a torch.

nate


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replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
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I thought the deal with exhaust bolts or studs was they had to be
hardened. Grade 8. I'm not sure they have to be but then why are they?
SS? May work fine but you can also use lots of Anti-seize. Unless this
vehicle is used off road it will last for many years. I've had to mess
with many old manifolds that were swapped around several times and
there wouldn't of been a problem if only Anti-seize had been used.

disston wrote:
> I thought the deal with exhaust bolts or studs was they had to be
> hardened. Grade 8. I'm not sure they have to be but then why are they?
> SS? May work fine but you can also use lots of Anti-seize. Unless this
> vehicle is used off road it will last for many years. I've had to mess
> with many old manifolds that were swapped around several times and
> there wouldn't of been a problem if only Anti-seize had been used.

It's more of an appearance thing than anything else. I'm planning on
gasket-matching them and cleaning them up and then sending them off to
be Jet-Hot coated. I just dislike any visible rust in an engine
compartment. The manifold to head fasteners are bolts and I've already
procured those in stainless. The manifold to downpipe studs tend to
look awful after the first few heat cycles. I understand that this
isn't necessarily a functional problem (although I certainly have
drilled out my share of these) if anti-seize is used, but more of a
cosmetic one.

I will have to drop ARP a line, couldn't tell if they offered exactly
what I'm looking for. I think the GM studs are intended for a "donut"
type gasket, what I have is a thin, flat gasket with a flange so the
studs are much shorter. That could obviously be worked around though
*if* they are fully threaded or close to it.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On Feb 8, 3:48*pm, disston > wrote:
> I thought the deal with exhaust bolts or studs was they had to be
> hardened. Grade 8. I'm not sure they have to be but then why are they?


seems like a bad idea; in my cheap scavenger days i used a couple of
random bolts to fasten the exhaust pipe flange to the manifold
flange; one of them turned out to be grade 8, as i discovered later on
when i tried to separate them, and i couldn't unfasten them, and i
couldn't cut the grade 8 bolt.

Nate Nagel wrote:
> disston wrote:
>> I thought the deal with exhaust bolts or studs was they had to be
>> hardened. Grade 8. I'm not sure they have to be but then why are they?
>> SS? May work fine but you can also use lots of Anti-seize. Unless this
>> vehicle is used off road it will last for many years. I've had to mess
>> with many old manifolds that were swapped around several times and
>> there wouldn't of been a problem if only Anti-seize had been used.
>
> It's more of an appearance thing than anything else. I'm planning on
> gasket-matching them and cleaning them up and then sending them off to
> be Jet-Hot coated. I just dislike any visible rust in an engine
> compartment. The manifold to head fasteners are bolts and I've already
> procured those in stainless. The manifold to downpipe studs tend to
> look awful after the first few heat cycles. I understand that this
> isn't necessarily a functional problem (although I certainly have
> drilled out my share of these) if anti-seize is used, but more of a
> cosmetic one.
>
> I will have to drop ARP a line, couldn't tell if they offered exactly
> what I'm looking for. I think the GM studs are intended for a "donut"
> type gasket, what I have is a thin, flat gasket with a flange so the
> studs are much shorter. That could obviously be worked around though
> *if* they are fully threaded or close to it.
>
> nate
>
If the studs are that short, you can use bolts. Most Fords have some
kind of stainless or inconel studs in them. Of course they are metric.
They also are a big pain in the butt when you try to torch them.