That Damn Nut

On Thu, 09 Jun 2011 09:51:04 -0700, jim beam wrote:

> On 06/09/2011 09:55 AM, Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B wrote:
>> On Wed, 08 Jun 2011 21:11:20 -0700, jim beam wrote:
>>
>>> On 06/08/2011 09:33 PM, Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B wrote:
>>>> On Wed, 08 Jun 2011 19:20:19 -0700, jim beam wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On 06/08/2011 03:08 PM, Victor R wrote:
>>>>>> Hachiroku ???? wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Any tricks to removing the big nut holding on a front wheel drive wheel?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> That's what I do. The last one I had to use a Dremel cutting wheel to cut
>>>>>>> the 'dimple' out (otherwise known as a "stake")
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Side question, is it worthwhile to replace the boots on axles once they
>>>>>> start flinging grease? Or just wait for the inevitable then replace the
>>>>>> unit(s) with aftermarket axles?
>>>>>
>>>>> you'll never get an aftermarket axle of the quality of oem honda. if
>>>>> the joint hasn't already been gritted and destroyed, and you're not just
>>>>> after a quick fix, i would definitely re-boot it. it'll take a little
>>>>> bit of work, but honda cv joints last hundreds of thousands of miles if
>>>>> maintained in this way. aftermarket, you're lucky if some of them last 30k
>>>>>
>>>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/38636024@N00/2500122859
>>>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/38636024@N00/2500122861
>>>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/38636024@N00/2500122865
>>>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/38636024@N00/2500122867
>>>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/38636024@N00/4877171985
>>>>>
>>>>> there are a number of how-to's on you-tube, and this topic has been
>>>>> discussed here in the not too distant past.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> You lost me after a while. What kind of Honda uses the spoked wheel?
>>>
>>> the lightweight one?
>>
>>
>> That's the one. Unless you have a Honda 90 stuffed away somewhere....
>
> used to. if you're nostalgic, check this out:
> http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/mcy/2426833184.html


That would work!


I had the DT's...

http://www.bikez.com/pictures/yamaha...20Bachmann.jpg
http://www.650motorcycles.com/images/CT175.jpg

On 06/10/2011 12:07 PM, Steve W. wrote:
> Tegger wrote:
>> Victor R > wrote in :
>>
>>
>>> Side question, is it worthwhile to replace the boots on axles once
>>> they start flinging grease? Or just wait for the inevitable then
>>> replace the unit(s) with aftermarket axles?
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> You're supposed to check the boots once in a while so you can replace
>> them BEFORE they start flinging grease.
>>
>> Boots take several years to start flinging grease from the first signs
>> of cracking, so you have LOTS of time to respond to this issue.
>>
>>
>
> Gee, next you'll be saying that you're supposed to check the air
> pressure in the tires and rotate them...
> Where do you come up with this stuff..... :-)
>

don't rotate, fix the alignment issue!


--
nomina rutrum rutrum

"Steve W." > wrote in
:

> Tegger wrote:
>> Victor R > wrote in
>> :
>>
>>
>>> Side question, is it worthwhile to replace the boots on axles once
>>> they start flinging grease? Or just wait for the inevitable then
>>> replace the unit(s) with aftermarket axles?
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> You're supposed to check the boots once in a while so you can replace
>> them BEFORE they start flinging grease.
>>
>> Boots take several years to start flinging grease from the first
>> signs of cracking, so you have LOTS of time to respond to this issue.
>>
>>
>
> Gee, next you'll be saying that you're supposed to check the air
> pressure in the tires and rotate them...
> Where do you come up with this stuff..... :-)
>


Hey, I got another one! There's this little metal stick that pokes out of
the engine. If you pull it out once in a while and make sure it's oily on
the end, the engine will last longer! Yeah, I'm such a radical.

--
Tegger

On Fri, 10 Jun 2011 12:14:28 -0700, jim beam wrote:

> On 06/10/2011 12:07 PM, Steve W. wrote:
>> Tegger wrote:
>>> Victor R > wrote in :
>>>
>>>
>>>> Side question, is it worthwhile to replace the boots on axles once
>>>> they start flinging grease? Or just wait for the inevitable then
>>>> replace the unit(s) with aftermarket axles?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> You're supposed to check the boots once in a while so you can replace
>>> them BEFORE they start flinging grease.
>>>
>>> Boots take several years to start flinging grease from the first signs
>>> of cracking, so you have LOTS of time to respond to this issue.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> Gee, next you'll be saying that you're supposed to check the air
>> pressure in the tires and rotate them...
>> Where do you come up with this stuff..... :-)
>>
>
> don't rotate, fix the alignment issue!

I rarely rotate tires. I often have the alignment checked.


I got 125,000 miles out of a set of Bridgestones, and 90,000 out of a set
of Dunlops, both OEM tires that came with the cars.

=?iso-2022-jp?q?Hachiroku_=1B$B%O%A%m%=2F=1B=28B?= > wrote:
>>
>> don't rotate, fix the alignment issue!
>
>I rarely rotate tires. I often have the alignment checked.

Unfortunately, these days you are more apt to have things made worse than
better if you get an alignment job. There are very, very few folks I would
trust to do it properly. They exist, but you have to look hard for them
(and usually ask racing shops who the one guy in town is).
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

(Scott Dorsey) wrote in
:

> =?iso-2022-jp?q?Hachiroku_=1B$B%O%A%m%=2F=1B=28B?= >
> wrote:
>>>
>>> don't rotate, fix the alignment issue!
>>
>>I rarely rotate tires. I often have the alignment checked.
>
> Unfortunately, these days you are more apt to have things made worse
> than better if you get an alignment job. There are very, very few
> folks I would trust to do it properly. They exist, but you have to
> look hard for them (and usually ask racing shops who the one guy in
> town is). --scott
>


That is the absolute truth.

Very strangely enough, the best guy I know of in my area works for one of
the big chains.

And it IS necessary to rotate the tires for maximum tread-life. Front and
rear tires experience different loads from each other, and thus front and
rear tires tend to have most of their wear in different places from each
other. If you rotate the tires, the tires stop wearing in the one place and
start wearing in the other, helping to even-out the overall wear.

--
Tegger

Tegger wrote:
> (Scott Dorsey) wrote in
> :
>
>> =?iso-2022-jp?q?Hachiroku_=1B$B%O%A%m%=2F=1B=28B?= >
>> wrote:
>>>> don't rotate, fix the alignment issue!
>>> I rarely rotate tires. I often have the alignment checked.
>> Unfortunately, these days you are more apt to have things made worse
>> than better if you get an alignment job. There are very, very few
>> folks I would trust to do it properly. They exist, but you have to
>> look hard for them (and usually ask racing shops who the one guy in
>> town is). --scott
>>
>
>
> That is the absolute truth.
>
> Very strangely enough, the best guy I know of in my area works for one of
> the big chains.
>
> And it IS necessary to rotate the tires for maximum tread-life. Front and
> rear tires experience different loads from each other, and thus front and
> rear tires tend to have most of their wear in different places from each
> other. If you rotate the tires, the tires stop wearing in the one place and
> start wearing in the other, helping to even-out the overall wear.
>

Especially true on front wheel drives. One outfit I worked with refused
to do rotations, the Caravans they had would go through a set of front
tires in about 30-40K while the rears would last over 100K !

Just about every 4X4 I've had was real bad about tire wear. Just because
of the different loading. If you didn't rotate the tires you ended up
with some real strange wear patterns.

Some tire brands and tread patterns are also problems. The set of
Coopers on the wifes Jeep need rotation every 3K or they develop cupping
across the tread behind each of the larger tread blocks. Those get cross
rotation, balances them out nicely.

--
Steve W.

"Steve W." > wrote in message
...
> Tegger wrote:
>> (Scott Dorsey) wrote in
>> :
>>> =?iso-2022-jp?q?Hachiroku_=1B$B%O%A%m%=2F=1B=28B?= >
>>> wrote:
>>>>> don't rotate, fix the alignment issue!
>>>> I rarely rotate tires. I often have the alignment checked.
>>> Unfortunately, these days you are more apt to have things made worse
>>> than better if you get an alignment job. There are very, very few
>>> folks I would trust to do it properly. They exist, but you have to
>>> look hard for them (and usually ask racing shops who the one guy in
>>> town is). --scott
>>>
>>
>>
>> That is the absolute truth.
>>
>> Very strangely enough, the best guy I know of in my area works for one of
>> the big chains.
>>
>> And it IS necessary to rotate the tires for maximum tread-life. Front and
>> rear tires experience different loads from each other, and thus front and
>> rear tires tend to have most of their wear in different places from each
>> other. If you rotate the tires, the tires stop wearing in the one place
>> and start wearing in the other, helping to even-out the overall wear.
>>
>
> Especially true on front wheel drives.

Horse hockey.

> One outfit I worked with refused to do rotations, the Caravans they had
> would go through a set of front tires in about 30-40K while the rears
> would last over 100K !

As would be expected with those wheels doing the acceleration,
the steering and with weight tranfer to the during braking, they
do most of the work.

> Just about every 4X4 I've had was real bad about tire wear. Just because
> of the different loading. If you didn't rotate the tires you ended up with
> some real strange wear patterns.
>
> Some tire brands and tread patterns are also problems. The set of Coopers
> on the wifes Jeep need rotation every 3K or they develop cupping across
> the tread behind each of the larger tread blocks. Those get cross
> rotation, balances them out nicely.

Cupping is generally a result of an underdamped suspension
and bouncing wheel.

Bottom line, perform regular preventive maintenance, monitor
vehicle condition, replace bad parts, maintain correct alignment
and forget about the ridiculous notion of tire rotation.

>
> --
> Steve W.

On Sat, 11 Jun 2011 23:24:45 -0400, Scott Dorsey wrote:

> =?iso-2022-jp?q?Hachiroku_=1B$B%O%A%m%=2F=1B=28B?= > wrote:
>>>
>>> don't rotate, fix the alignment issue!
>>
>>I rarely rotate tires. I often have the alignment checked.
>
> Unfortunately, these days you are more apt to have things made worse than
> better if you get an alignment job. There are very, very few folks I would
> trust to do it properly. They exist, but you have to look hard for them
> (and usually ask racing shops who the one guy in town is).
> --scott


I know where ours is!

On 06/12/2011 10:44 AM, Adrian wrote:
> "Steve > wrote in message
> ...
>> Tegger wrote:
>>> (Scott Dorsey) wrote in
>>> :
>>>> =?iso-2022-jp?q?Hachiroku_=1B$B%O%A%m%=2F=1B=28B?=<Trueno@e86 .GTS>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>>> don't rotate, fix the alignment issue!
>>>>> I rarely rotate tires. I often have the alignment checked.
>>>> Unfortunately, these days you are more apt to have things made worse
>>>> than better if you get an alignment job. There are very, very few
>>>> folks I would trust to do it properly. They exist, but you have to
>>>> look hard for them (and usually ask racing shops who the one guy in
>>>> town is). --scott
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> That is the absolute truth.
>>>
>>> Very strangely enough, the best guy I know of in my area works for one of
>>> the big chains.
>>>
>>> And it IS necessary to rotate the tires for maximum tread-life. Front and
>>> rear tires experience different loads from each other, and thus front and
>>> rear tires tend to have most of their wear in different places from each
>>> other. If you rotate the tires, the tires stop wearing in the one place
>>> and start wearing in the other, helping to even-out the overall wear.
>>>
>>
>> Especially true on front wheel drives.
>
> Horse hockey.
>
>> One outfit I worked with refused to do rotations, the Caravans they had
>> would go through a set of front tires in about 30-40K while the rears
>> would last over 100K !
>
> As would be expected with those wheels doing the acceleration,
> the steering and with weight tranfer to the during braking, they
> do most of the work.
>
>> Just about every 4X4 I've had was real bad about tire wear. Just because
>> of the different loading. If you didn't rotate the tires you ended up with
>> some real strange wear patterns.
>>
>> Some tire brands and tread patterns are also problems. The set of Coopers
>> on the wifes Jeep need rotation every 3K or they develop cupping across
>> the tread behind each of the larger tread blocks. Those get cross
>> rotation, balances them out nicely.
>
> Cupping is generally a result of an underdamped suspension
> and bouncing wheel.

indeed. it can also be crappy tires with unevenly tensioned and/or laid
casing fibers.


>
> Bottom line, perform regular preventive maintenance, monitor
> vehicle condition, replace bad parts, maintain correct alignment
> and forget about the ridiculous notion of tire rotation.

"rotation" is a hangover from the days of bias ply, just like 3000 mile
oil changes. to do so on a modern vehicle with radial tires is a
ridiculous anachronism.

when tegger says "tires experience different loads from each other ...
tend to have most of their wear in different places from each
other", he's absolutely correct. and this is precisely why you /should
not/ rotate. to put that wear into a different position of the vehicle
means that suddenly you don't have 100% of the tread touching the road
surface any more. anyone having trouble with this concept should chalk
up some hdfb and drive different positioned then rotated tires across it
to see for themselves. to retain maximum traction, braking, and thus
control and safety, tires should NOT be rotated. as evidenced by
performance vehicle manufacturers where traction and control are front
and center.


>
>>
>> --
>> Steve W.
>
>


--
nomina rutrum rutrum