That Damn Nut

On Jun 7, 2:24*pm, jim beam > wrote:
> On 06/07/2011 09:04 AM, Tim Wescott wrote:
>
> > Any tricks to removing the big nut holding on a front wheel drive wheel?
> > This is a 99 Honda Civic. *The nut is the type that has an edge peened
> > into a keyway-looking slot. *Is there any way to ease that peened bit out
> > of the slot, or do you just need a great big breaker bar and lots and
> > lots of torque to get it all apart?
>
> breaker bar works, but use 3/4", not 1/2". *sometimes these things are
> seized and take some serious leverage to remove. *1/2" tools can break
> in this situation, and because of the torque wind-up, when they let go,
> they can cause serious injury.
>
> the other [and probably best] option is to use an impact driver. *take
> the hub cover off, then with the wheel on the hub and on the ground
> [avoids loading the transmission or hammering the driveshaft joint]
> impact away.
>
> if you personally don't have impact tools, remove the hub cover as
> above, then drive over to a shop that does who'll do it for you. *then
> torque it gently and drive home carefully to finish the job.
>
> a junkyard trick where the wheels have already been removed is to jam a
> big screwdriver into the gap in the caliper so it's stuck in the brake
> disk vanes. *then you can use one of the above tools to remove.
>
> --
> nomina rutrum rutrum

What do you think of securing the breaker bar on the ground and simply
driving backwards a few inches to break the nut?

On 06/13/2011 05:13 PM, dsi1 wrote:
> On Jun 7, 2:24�pm, jim > wrote:
>> On 06/07/2011 09:04 AM, Tim Wescott wrote:
>>
>>> Any tricks to removing the big nut holding on a front wheel drive wheel?
>>> This is a 99 Honda Civic. �The nut is the type that has an edge peened
>>> into a keyway-looking slot. �Is there any way to ease that peened bit out
>>> of the slot, or do you just need a great big breaker bar and lots and
>>> lots of torque to get it all apart?
>>
>> breaker bar works, but use 3/4", not 1/2". �sometimes these things are
>> seized and take some serious leverage to remove. �1/2" tools can break
>> in this situation, and because of the torque wind-up, when they let go,
>> they can cause serious injury.
>>
>> the other [and probably best] option is to use an impact driver. �take
>> the hub cover off, then with the wheel on the hub and on the ground
>> [avoids loading the transmission or hammering the driveshaft joint]
>> impact away.
>>
>> if you personally don't have impact tools, remove the hub cover as
>> above, then drive over to a shop that does who'll do it for you. �then
>> torque it gently and drive home carefully to finish the job.
>>
>> a junkyard trick where the wheels have already been removed is to jam a
>> big screwdriver into the gap in the caliper so it's stuck in the brake
>> disk vanes. �then you can use one of the above tools to remove.
>>
>> --
>> nomina rutrum rutrum
>
> What do you think of securing the breaker bar on the ground and simply
> driving backwards a few inches to break the nut?

it's going to drag or dig the breaker bar into the ground since it has
to move laterally to track the spindle as the wheel turns - not safe
because there's no control.

much safer to swing by a shop that has the tools. it'll maybe cost you
a six-pack - much cheaper than a broken breaker bar or a dinged car.

better yet, buy the tools that will do the job. i got a 24" 3/4" drive
breaker bar off craigslist for $25. that will shift most spindle nuts
and even crank pulley bolts.


--
nomina rutrum rutrum

On 6/13/2011 6:51 PM, jim beam wrote:
> On 06/13/2011 05:13 PM, dsi1 wrote:
>>
>> What do you think of securing the breaker bar on the ground and simply
>> driving backwards a few inches to break the nut?
>
> it's going to drag or dig the breaker bar into the ground since it has
> to move laterally to track the spindle as the wheel turns - not safe
> because there's no control.
>
> much safer to swing by a shop that has the tools. it'll maybe cost you a
> six-pack - much cheaper than a broken breaker bar or a dinged car.
>
> better yet, buy the tools that will do the job. i got a 24" 3/4" drive
> breaker bar off craigslist for $25. that will shift most spindle nuts
> and even crank pulley bolts.
>
>

I think it might work if you use a pipe extension which would allow the
bar to slide a little. Mostly, if you use a long enough extension it's
not going to be a problem to break the nut by simply leaning on it. I've
broken axle nuts by just jacking up the end of the breaker bar.

One time, I helped my neighbor remove the crankshaft pulley bolt from
his Toyota by laying the end of the breaker bar on the ground and
bumping the starter - after removing the cable to the coil, of course.
One small bump and it was loose. I have no idea how he got that nut back
on tightly enough. My guess is that he didn't. :-)

On 06/14/2011 03:08 AM, dsi1 wrote:
> On 6/13/2011 6:51 PM, jim beam wrote:
>> On 06/13/2011 05:13 PM, dsi1 wrote:
>>>
>>> What do you think of securing the breaker bar on the ground and simply
>>> driving backwards a few inches to break the nut?
>>
>> it's going to drag or dig the breaker bar into the ground since it has
>> to move laterally to track the spindle as the wheel turns - not safe
>> because there's no control.
>>
>> much safer to swing by a shop that has the tools. it'll maybe cost you a
>> six-pack - much cheaper than a broken breaker bar or a dinged car.
>>
>> better yet, buy the tools that will do the job. i got a 24" 3/4" drive
>> breaker bar off craigslist for $25. that will shift most spindle nuts
>> and even crank pulley bolts.
>>
>>
>
> I think it might work if you use a pipe extension which would allow the
> bar to slide a little. Mostly, if you use a long enough extension it's
> not going to be a problem to break the nut by simply leaning on it. I've
> broken axle nuts by just jacking up the end of the breaker bar.
>
> One time, I helped my neighbor remove the crankshaft pulley bolt from
> his Toyota by laying the end of the breaker bar on the ground and
> bumping the starter - after removing the cable to the coil, of course.
> One small bump and it was loose. I have no idea how he got that nut back
> on tightly enough. My guess is that he didn't. :-)

that is an old trick that works just fine. but the difference with the
wheel spindle is the non-stationary vehicle. [you /definitely/ don't
want to try this with just the gear train engaged.] vehicle movement is
a safety issue even if it's just the socket coming off the nut. much
more so if someone insists on trying to use a 1/2" breaker bar and it fails.


--
nomina rutrum rutrum

On Jun 14, 4:37*am, jim beam > wrote:
> On 06/14/2011 03:08 AM, dsi1 wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On 6/13/2011 6:51 PM, jim beam wrote:
> >> On 06/13/2011 05:13 PM, dsi1 wrote:
>
> >>> What do you think of securing the breaker bar on the ground and simply
> >>> driving backwards a few inches to break the nut?
>
> >> it's going to drag or dig the breaker bar into the ground since it has
> >> to move laterally to track the spindle as the wheel turns - not safe
> >> because there's no control.
>
> >> much safer to swing by a shop that has the tools. it'll maybe cost you a
> >> six-pack - much cheaper than a broken breaker bar or a dinged car.
>
> >> better yet, buy the tools that will do the job. i got a 24" 3/4" drive
> >> breaker bar off craigslist for $25. that will shift most spindle nuts
> >> and even crank pulley bolts.
>
> > I think it might work if you use a pipe extension which would allow the
> > bar to slide a little. Mostly, if you use a long enough extension it's
> > not going to be a problem to break the nut by simply leaning on it. I've
> > broken axle nuts by just jacking up the end of the breaker bar.
>
> > One time, I helped my neighbor remove the crankshaft pulley bolt from
> > his Toyota by laying the end of the breaker bar on the ground and
> > bumping the starter - after removing the cable to the coil, of course.
> > One small bump and it was loose. I have no idea how he got that nut back
> > on tightly enough. My guess is that he didn't. :-)
>
> that is an old trick that works just fine. *but the difference with the
> wheel spindle is the non-stationary vehicle. *[you /definitely/ don't
> want to try this with just the gear train engaged.] *vehicle movement is
> a safety issue even if it's just the socket coming off the nut. *much
> more so if someone insists on trying to use a 1/2" breaker bar and it fails.
>
> --
> nomina rutrum rutrum

I'm not sure why vehicle movement would be a problem. The brakes and
tires are all in place and it's not jacked up. How far back do I have
to go? Less than 5" would be my guess.

I'll try to see if it works the next time I need to. That could be
never. :-)

I agree, 1/2" ain't gonna cut it. I have seen big sockets with 1/2"
drives. I wish they wouldn't sell stuff like that.