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running horribly rich



 
 
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  #11  
Old January 3rd 05, 06:55 PM
Mac
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"jjs" > wrote in message
...
> "Mike64Bug" > wrote in message
> news
>> If the second carb you put on was known to be good but
>> you had the same symptoms then one would expect to find the
>> trouble somewhere else. I was thinking that perhaps one of
>> the gaskets you replaced starting leaking after everything had a
>> chance to heat up and cool off a few times, i.e something
>> loosened up somewhere.

>
> Yes. Just where is the air/fuel gauge installed?
>
>


I have a Baja single quiet pack and it is welded in right after the
collector.... still haven't sorted out the wiring yet though. Not worth
doing until I can get it to idle right....

Mac


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  #12  
Old January 10th 05, 04:17 AM
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Do you have a 34PICT3 carb?
They are not worth rebuilding!

Mac wrote:
> Here's the scenario:
>
> 1600 DP with a new SVDA dizzy from A/C.net, I believe it was a

compufire
> pickup I installed in it (also new), the valves were adjusted and

then
> checked after I started having problems and all was good. It started


> misfiring and gradually running rougher over a period of time (about

a week)
> while I was installing a oil pressure guage, oil temp sender,

air/fuel ratio
> meter and all the senders. Next thing I know it won't start and I

find the
> oil smelling like gas! Drained and refilled the oil and changed the
> seriously fouled plugs for new ones and it fires right up. Problem

is it
> will only run with the choke fully closed but the raw fuel smell

coming out
> of the exhaust has basically gotten me nauseous (sp?). This carb

has been
> rebuilt by me and set to the starting point as per several sites on

the
> internet and also the rebuild intsructions. It's such a simple carb

I can't
> see how I could have screwed it up. My neighbors and myself felt it

was
> probably carb related but after dropping on a known good carb it did

the
> same exact thing..... the only way we could get either to idle after

the
> choke started opening was to turn the bypass screw many turns out.

The
> volume control was set at 2 3/4 out on both.
>
> I'm at a loss now...... the only thing I can think of now is the

ignition
> giving a weak spark. I'm open to any sugestions though of course.

Two
> things I forgot to mention, I replaced all the intake gaskets and

seals and
> had it purring like a kitten about a month ago (had an intake leak).

I
> also did a compression check with all the plugs out and got 160

across the
> board. I was almost hoping to see one low just so I would know what

the
> problem was!
>
> Thanks for any ideas/suggestions guys...... oh and Happy New Year!
>
> Mac
>
> 75 Baja
> 70 Bus
> 70 Ghia


  #13  
Old January 10th 05, 07:39 AM
Jan
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Posts: n/a
Default

I have to disagree. The 34 is just as good as any other stock carb, in
the kind of engine it was designed for.
It was also the largest stock carb ever available, and despite still not
completely solving the inherent undercarburation issue, it is by far the
best choice for a stock or very near stock 1600.

People knock it mostly when they have compatibility issues with it and
the 009 distributor, or worn shafts.
BOTH can be remedied by proper modifications and repairs.

Basically, if you know what you are doing, you can mix and match any
carb with any distributor in the type1 engine. But once you decide to
make ONE little change to the original configuration, it gets a little
hairy.
Everything has an effect on something else. Can't change just one
component and assume it will still work right.


Jan


wrote:
>
> Do you have a 34PICT3 carb?
> They are not worth rebuilding!
>
> Mac wrote:
> > Here's the scenario:
> >
> > 1600 DP with a new SVDA dizzy from A/C.net, I believe it was a

> compufire
> > pickup I installed in it (also new), the valves were adjusted and

> then
> > checked after I started having problems and all was good. It started

>
> > misfiring and gradually running rougher over a period of time (about

> a week)
> > while I was installing a oil pressure guage, oil temp sender,

> air/fuel ratio
> > meter and all the senders. Next thing I know it won't start and I

> find the
> > oil smelling like gas! Drained and refilled the oil and changed the
> > seriously fouled plugs for new ones and it fires right up. Problem

> is it
> > will only run with the choke fully closed but the raw fuel smell

> coming out
> > of the exhaust has basically gotten me nauseous (sp?). This carb

> has been
> > rebuilt by me and set to the starting point as per several sites on

> the
> > internet and also the rebuild intsructions. It's such a simple carb

> I can't
> > see how I could have screwed it up. My neighbors and myself felt it

> was
> > probably carb related but after dropping on a known good carb it did

> the
> > same exact thing..... the only way we could get either to idle after

> the
> > choke started opening was to turn the bypass screw many turns out.

> The
> > volume control was set at 2 3/4 out on both.
> >
> > I'm at a loss now...... the only thing I can think of now is the

> ignition
> > giving a weak spark. I'm open to any sugestions though of course.

> Two
> > things I forgot to mention, I replaced all the intake gaskets and

> seals and
> > had it purring like a kitten about a month ago (had an intake leak).

> I
> > also did a compression check with all the plugs out and got 160

> across the
> > board. I was almost hoping to see one low just so I would know what

> the
> > problem was!
> >
> > Thanks for any ideas/suggestions guys...... oh and Happy New Year!
> >
> > Mac
> >
> > 75 Baja
> > 70 Bus
> > 70 Ghia

 




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