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no winston, the truck does not start at temperature, pressurized or not.
it hast o cool first.. -- "Winston" > wrote in message ... > Swabbie wrote: >> "Winston" > wrote in message >> ... >> >>> Swabbie wrote: >>> >>>> this is a problem that has plagued this truck for about 2 years now. I >>>> have posted this problem on about every ford tech site on the net. >>>> Still no go. >>>> heres the situation, >>>> the truck will crank right up, and drive perfectly to wherever I am >>>> going. I then turn it off. >>>> If it has been about 30 miles or so, it will NOT restart until it has >>>> sat for about 15 minutes(as if it needs to cool down). > > Other posters have indicated a chronic heat problem in the starter motor > and suggest a heat shield. This seems most likely. > >>> >>> Stick? Automatic? auto >>> >>> How much current goes to the starter under each condition? >>> About the same or much more or less under the fault condition?checked it >>> today, its the same >>> >>> Can you reproduce the problem with an unpressurized cooling system? >>> (Loosen the radiator cap before starting?)NO > > This means that the truck always starts at any temperature as long as > the cooling system is unpressurized. That's what you meant to say, > yes? The problem cannot be reproduced with an unpressurized cooling > system. > > Cool! I wonder if this means that coolant is leaking into the cylinders > and bogging down the starter. How is your coolant level? Do you > have to keep topping it up? > >>> If you remove the sparkplugs after the failure, does the engine spin >>> up at about the right RPM or is it still bogged down, indicating >>> perhaps a main bearing problem? >> >> more detail on this one please, I guess I don't get what you mean > > Earlier, you mentioned that the truck always starts at any temperature > as long as the cooling system is unpressurized, right? > > Forget my mention of a main bearing problem. It is looking more as if > coolant is getting into one or more cylinders. > > You also state that the starter motor draws no more current when the > problem appears. > This is a puzzlement, because one would expect a 'hydraulically siezed' > engine to draw much more current through the series - wound starter. > Removing the plugs and cranking the engine would blow out any water > collected in the cylinders. > >>> Oil look ok? Not 'creamy' as if water has gotten in? >>> looks fine to me > > Good. That means water isn't getting past the rings or valve stem seals. > >>> Blue Sky Department: >>> Sick F.I. computer injecting liquid gas into a couple cylinders? >>> Sick injector(s) sticking open when heated? >>> Head gasket leak putting incompressable water in a couple cylinders? >>> >>> --Winston > > But these wildass guesses are probably wrong and you just need to put a > heat shield on your starter. > > --Winston > |
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