Which oil in older car?

In article >,
Steve > wrote:

> Nate Nagel wrote:
>
>
> >
> > The ticking you hear with the 10W30 is telling me that the 10W30 is too
> > thick when cold to really make your engine happy.
>
> OR its just a Ford 302 saying "good morning!" like they all do.
>
> :-)
>
> I sure wouldn't use 5w20 EPA-pleasing monkey **** in any engine I cared
> about, but 5w30 vs 10w30 is a toss-up. No reason for 5w much south of
> Kansas, though.
>
>
>

I've become rather fond of 15w40 Delo 400 in *EVERYTHING* that needs
oil... Rated for diesel service, accepted for "fleet service", and I've
never had a problem with it in any of my motors. Might be a tad thick in
the mornings if I were in "cold country", but since that's not an issue
around here...

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Don Bruder wrote:
> In article >,
> Steve > wrote:
>
>
>>Nate Nagel wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>The ticking you hear with the 10W30 is telling me that the 10W30 is too
>>>thick when cold to really make your engine happy.
>>
>>OR its just a Ford 302 saying "good morning!" like they all do.
>>
>>:-)
>>
>>I sure wouldn't use 5w20 EPA-pleasing monkey **** in any engine I cared
>>about, but 5w30 vs 10w30 is a toss-up. No reason for 5w much south of
>>Kansas, though.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> I've become rather fond of 15w40 Delo 400 in *EVERYTHING* that needs
> oil... Rated for diesel service, accepted for "fleet service", and I've
> never had a problem with it in any of my motors. Might be a tad thick in
> the mornings if I were in "cold country", but since that's not an issue
> around here...
>

Fortunately both Delo and Rotella come in a handy 5W40 synthetic flavor.
I'm currently running the dino squeezins in the Studebaker and the
synthetic in the Porsche. The Stude will get synthetic after the new
engine is broken in.

nate

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In article >,
Nate Nagel > wrote:

> Don Bruder wrote:
> > In article >,
> > Steve > wrote:
> >
> >
> >>Nate Nagel wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>The ticking you hear with the 10W30 is telling me that the 10W30 is too
> >>>thick when cold to really make your engine happy.
> >>
> >>OR its just a Ford 302 saying "good morning!" like they all do.
> >>
> >>:-)
> >>
> >>I sure wouldn't use 5w20 EPA-pleasing monkey **** in any engine I cared
> >>about, but 5w30 vs 10w30 is a toss-up. No reason for 5w much south of
> >>Kansas, though.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > I've become rather fond of 15w40 Delo 400 in *EVERYTHING* that needs
> > oil... Rated for diesel service, accepted for "fleet service", and I've
> > never had a problem with it in any of my motors. Might be a tad thick in
> > the mornings if I were in "cold country", but since that's not an issue
> > around here...
> >
>
> Fortunately both Delo and Rotella come in a handy 5W40 synthetic flavor.
> I'm currently running the dino squeezins in the Studebaker and the
> synthetic in the Porsche. The Stude will get synthetic after the new
> engine is broken in.

YEp, I've heard good things about Rotella, also, but since it's not as
easily available here as Delo (and when I find it at all, it's in
overpriced quarts, rather than reasonably priced gallons like the Delo)
I've been, and will likely continue to, sticking with the Delo. I find
it mighty handy to be able to do the "whatever it is needs oil - Grab
the Delo jug off the shelf and pour" thing, without worrying about "is
it the right stuff?" issues. From what I can understand of the label and
the various "rated for" listings, it is indeed "the right stuff" for
pretty much anything that wants a crankcase full of oil, be it a 3 horse
Briggs & Stratton, the little 4-banger in my '82 Mazda 626, the
Landlady's 2004 Infinity, a D8 Cat, or anything in between.

--
Don Bruder - - If your "From:" address isn't on my whitelist,
or the subject of the message doesn't contain the exact text "PopperAndShadow"
somewhere, any message sent to this address will go in the garbage without my
ever knowing it arrived. Sorry... <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd> for more info

"Don Bruder" > wrote in message
...
> In article >,
> Nate Nagel > wrote:
>
>> Don Bruder wrote:
>> > In article >,
>> > Steve > wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> >>Nate Nagel wrote:
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>>The ticking you hear with the 10W30 is telling me that the 10W30 is
>> >>>too
>> >>>thick when cold to really make your engine happy.
>> >>
>> >>OR its just a Ford 302 saying "good morning!" like they all do.
>> >>
>> >>:-)
>> >>
>> >>I sure wouldn't use 5w20 EPA-pleasing monkey **** in any engine I cared
>> >>about, but 5w30 vs 10w30 is a toss-up. No reason for 5w much south of
>> >>Kansas, though.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> > I've become rather fond of 15w40 Delo 400 in *EVERYTHING* that needs
>> > oil... Rated for diesel service, accepted for "fleet service", and I've
>> > never had a problem with it in any of my motors. Might be a tad thick
>> > in
>> > the mornings if I were in "cold country", but since that's not an issue
>> > around here...
>> >
>>
>> Fortunately both Delo and Rotella come in a handy 5W40 synthetic flavor.
>> I'm currently running the dino squeezins in the Studebaker and the
>> synthetic in the Porsche. The Stude will get synthetic after the new
>> engine is broken in.
>
> YEp, I've heard good things about Rotella, also, but since it's not as
> easily available here as Delo (and when I find it at all, it's in
> overpriced quarts, rather than reasonably priced gallons like the Delo)
> I've been, and will likely continue to, sticking with the Delo. I find
> it mighty handy to be able to do the "whatever it is needs oil - Grab
> the Delo jug off the shelf and pour" thing, without worrying about "is
> it the right stuff?" issues. From what I can understand of the label and
> the various "rated for" listings, it is indeed "the right stuff" for
> pretty much anything that wants a crankcase full of oil, be it a 3 horse
> Briggs & Stratton, the little 4-banger in my '82 Mazda 626, the
> Landlady's 2004 Infinity, a D8 Cat, or anything in between.
>

Except that it is too viscous to use in many modern engines, especially some
overhead cam engines from Ford and Honda, even in a temperate climate.
There is a range of suitable viscosity oil for every engine and the range
for a particular climate is usually printed in the handbook.
Nowadays I have found that 10w/40 and 15w/40-mixed fleet oils meet 90% of
my engine needs. Some engines do run on 5w/30 or 0w/40 in my fleet but they
are exceptional and a bit of a nuisance as I like to keep things simple.

Those who know me might like to know that I have worn my Land Rover's diesel
engine out at last. It has covered around 13000 hours of hard use/short
journeys over 22 years. The oil has always become pitch black within a
minute of changing it and has always been changed at every 5000 miles.
How much longer would it have lasted if I changed it according to oil
cleanliness [every 5 miles LOL] or every six months [2500 miles] or every
3000 miles? I don't think it would have made any significant difference.
At an average speed of 30mph, 13000 hours is nearly 400,000 miles of
motoring, which is what my Toyota Land Cruiser will need to do to run for
the same number of operating hours as the old Land Rover. No doubt I could
replace crank bearings, pistons, gudgeon pins and rings and get a few more
years of use out of the old girl but I think now is the time to retire
gracefully as all other components and the body are also a bit tired and
worn.

Back to the original topic...

Most oil change places recommend running 5w30 oil in the winter,
which is better for cold morning startups.

Then switch to 10w30 in the late spring to early summer months
because it's less prone to break down with the heat.

My two cents...

Scott


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"450HP" > wrote in message
...
>
> Back to the original topic...
>
> Most oil change places recommend running 5w30 oil in the winter,
> which is better for cold morning startups.
>
> Then switch to 10w30 in the late spring to early summer months
> because it's less prone to break down with the heat.
>
> My two cents...
>
> Scott
>

The difference between a 5w/30 and a 10w/30 is very small but if it makes
you happy, great.

Huw

gord_truck YOUR ticking sound has nothing to do with oil ---- it's
wear on the rocker hold downs --or rocker arm push rod seat ---or a
push rod end --- check for wear--- you will need rocker cover gasket
---- and some simple little pices--- could be even a stuck lifter---
myself I would just add A 1/4 COFFEE OF NEW TRNNY FLUID BEFORE CHECKING
FOR WEAR. THIS SHOULD TAKE AND FREE ANY STUCK LIFTERS. It's just old
and tired Imyself only drive FORD trucks I have 3 2000 f-159 plus an
1988 plus a 1949 255 flat head Built ford tough bye for now gord
J J wrote:
> I have a 1988 Ford 5.0 V8. Owners manual calls for 5w30 oil. The oil
> change places want to use 10w 30. A Ford dealership says they use 5W
> 20 on every car and that it makes no difference.
> So far I have insisted on using the 5w30. (The engine ticks when first
> started when using 10W30 in winter.) Who is right?

Huw Wrote:
>
> The difference between a 5w/30 and a 10w/30 is very small but if it
> makes
> you happy, great.
All I said is that's what they recommend... I never said that's what I
do! :thumbsup:

Scott


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"450HP" > wrote in message
...
>
> Huw Wrote:
>>
>> The difference between a 5w/30 and a 10w/30 is very small but if it
>> makes
>> you happy, great.
> All I said is that's what they recommend... I never said that's what I
> do! :thumbsup:
>

Who are "they" and "most"?
I have not heard this and the point of a multigrade is to avoid such
foolishness.

Huw

450HP wrote:

> Most oil change places recommend running 5w30 oil in the winter,
> which is better for cold morning startups.

I realize it isn't your personal recommendation, but I'd rather not
take advice from oil change places that aren't full service garages.
One quick lube wanted to put 10W-40 in my water cooled VW, which VW
prohibited above about 50F. The engine needed straight 40 for summer,
which wasn't available. Actually I typically used 20W-50, as VW
dealers did, but even that wasn't recommended above about 78F.