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#3
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"Daniel J. Stern" > wrote in message n.umich.edu... > Technically, the only proper way to aim those lamps is with a mechanical > aim device that interfaces with the three pips on each lens. Assuming the > beam pattern isn't too munged up by whatever bulbs are installed or wear > is present in the headlamp optics, you can use the VOR procedure at > http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html > > DS If you use Daniels VOR technique, and do the job reasonably well, you will normally be about as well off as if a disinterested technician used superior equipment. This method can yield good results. No doubt, with spectacular equipment and a trained and interested technician, you might do a little better. |
#4
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"Daniel J. Stern" > wrote in message n.umich.edu... > On Thu, 9 Jun 2005 wrote: > > > My 97 accord has about 140K miles. I recently replaced and upgraded my > > headlight bulbs. > > What "upgrade" bulbs did you buy? There are a lot of claimed "upgrades" on > the market that are actually downgrades. > > > The lighting patterns still seems subpar. > > It's not super terrific on those cars, but it's not awful, either -- > assuming the headlamps are in good shape and you installed good (and not > just hyped-up) bulbs. > > > Several people have recommended that I also re-tweak the aim of the > > headlights > > Don't "tweak" anything -- aim them properly. > > > especially since I keep some heavy stuff in my trunk. > > Have your heavy stuff in the trunk when you're aiming the lamps. > > > The service manual shows a horizontal and vertical screw adjust for each > > headlamp. However, there are no specific instructions to aim them,nor is > > there a bubble guide for the vertical aim adjust. > > Technically, the only proper way to aim those lamps is with a mechanical > aim device that interfaces with the three pips on each lens. Assuming the > beam pattern isn't too munged up by whatever bulbs are installed or wear > is present in the headlamp optics, you can use the VOR procedure at > http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html > > DS I must say, Daniel, that I've never seen this technique before. I have used walls as a reference for trial-and-error; but, thanks for the info--I like it. sdlomi2 |
#5
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"sdlomi2" > wrote in message ... > > > DS > I must say, Daniel, that I've never seen this technique before. I have > used walls as a reference for trial-and-error; but, thanks for the info--I > like it. sdlomi2 I have used a slightly different method whereby the centerpoints of the windshield and backlight are used, and a laser pointer through those points establishes the centerpoint on the wall. Measured height from from floor level to lamp center is transferred to the wall. , as is measured distance between two headlight centers. Distance from car to wall is still 25 feet. Object is to get the high intensity beams concentrated around the intersection of the level line and the beam line, and the low intensity spot below the level line and to the right of the beam lines. It is somewhat subjective, but with a little practice can be done well enough for most applications. The last time I had to do this, the 'dealership' had adjusted my beams, and had one pointed toward Mars and the other toward the nether zones. The above procedure worked well enough to pass the inspection examination (which used expensive equipment). |
#6
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> wrote in message ... > > "sdlomi2" > wrote in message > ... > > > > > > DS > > I must say, Daniel, that I've never seen this technique before. I > have > > used walls as a reference for trial-and-error; but, thanks for the info--I > > like it. sdlomi2 > > I have used a slightly different method whereby the centerpoints of the > windshield and backlight > are used, and a laser pointer through those points establishes the > centerpoint on the wall. Measured height from from floor level to lamp > center is transferred to the wall. , as is measured distance between two > headlight centers. > > Distance from car to wall is still 25 feet. > > Object is to get the high intensity beams concentrated around the > intersection of the level line > and the beam line, and the low intensity spot below the level line and to > the right of the beam lines. > It is somewhat subjective, but with a little practice can be done well > enough for most applications. > > The last time I had to do this, the 'dealership' had adjusted my beams, and > had one pointed toward Mars and the other toward the nether zones. The > above procedure worked well enough > to pass the inspection examination (which used expensive equipment). > That sounds neat also. Now I'd like to put it to work. Like to ask you a question: I've recently run into a dilemna. Just bought wife a 2005 Town and Country. I've found and adjusted the up/down beam, but can not for the life of me find an adjustment for the left/right. A friend (mechanic) could not find one either. Any ideas? Thx, s |
#7
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sdlomi2 wrote:
> That sounds neat also. Now I'd like to put it to work. Like to ask you > a question: I've recently run into a dilemna. Just bought wife a 2005 Town > and Country. I've found and adjusted the up/down beam, but can not for the > life of me find an adjustment for the left/right. A friend (mechanic) could > not find one either. Any ideas? Thx, s > ---------------- A Dodge Caraven Town & Country? Brand new and the headlights are already out of adjustment? Don't get in over your head . . . 'Curly' |
#8
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"motsco_ _" <"motsco_ > wrote in message ... > sdlomi2 wrote: > > That sounds neat also. Now I'd like to put it to work. Like to ask you > > a question: I've recently run into a dilemna. Just bought wife a 2005 Town > > and Country. I've found and adjusted the up/down beam, but can not for the > > life of me find an adjustment for the left/right. A friend (mechanic) could > > not find one either. Any ideas? Thx, s > > > > ---------------- > > A Dodge Caraven Town & Country? Brand new and the headlights are already > out of adjustment? > > Don't get in over your head . . . > > 'Curly' > Thx for the warning, 'Curly'. But I knew before purchase (I'm a retired dealer plus I did paint/body work for ~8 years.) that the left front had been "worked". Thanks again. Agree with you that such could be a signal to be wary of. s |
#9
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On Fri, 10 Jun 2005, sdlomi2 wrote:
> a question: I've recently run into a dilemna. Just bought wife a 2005 > Town and Country. I've found and adjusted the up/down beam, but can not > for the life of me find an adjustment for the left/right. A friend > (mechanic) could not find one either. Any ideas? There isn't one. You've just run into one of the US DOT's many "we know better than the rest of the world" dumb ideas. When NHTSA FINALLY moved to allow visual aim of US headlamps by modifying the beam pattern to incorporate a (barely usable, laxly controlled) cutoff, they allowed visual aim in the vertical direction only. On a visual-aim headlamp, horizontal aim is legally required to be nonadjustable unless a VHAD (3 lens pips or a calibrated level scale, etc.) is provided for mechanical horizontal aim. Their claimed reasoning? "There's no such a thing as a usable visual beam cue for horizontal aim". Despite the fact the rest of the world outside North America has been doing it successfully since 1952. (also: "Modern headlamps work so well that their horizontal aim isn't very critical". These guys are writing the rules!) So what do you guess will happen when a car with non-aimable-in-the-horizontal-direction headlamps has a fender bender? DS |
#10
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On Fri, 10 Jun 2005, sdlomi2 wrote:
> I must say, Daniel, that I've never seen this technique before. I > have used walls as a reference for trial-and-error; but, thanks for the > info--I like it. sdlomi2 You're welcome. Still curious what bulbs you put in. |
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