hitch ball options?

Hi all,

looking for opinions on hitch balls... I'm trying to put together a
carry-on set of stuff for my truck and included in that in my mind
should be all the various hitch balls that I may need (1-7/8", 2", 2-5/8")

are any of the "switch ball" type things worth the money? Looking
online it looks like I'd be better served by just buying three (well,
actually, two, since I already have the 2" ball) and a wrench for the
nut and a big crescent wrench (which I already have)

Also, it appears that the stainless balls, while shiny, tend to have a
lower weight rating than chrome plated steel. Any exceptions? I do
like stainless, but not at the expense of functionality.

thanks

nate


--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On 08/28/2011 05:37 AM, Nate Nagel wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> looking for opinions on hitch balls... I'm trying to put together a
> carry-on set of stuff for my truck and included in that in my mind
> should be all the various hitch balls that I may need (1-7/8", 2", 2-5/8")
>
> are any of the "switch ball" type things worth the money? Looking online
> it looks like I'd be better served by just buying three (well, actually,
> two, since I already have the 2" ball) and a wrench for the nut and a
> big crescent wrench (which I already have)
>
> Also, it appears that the stainless balls, while shiny, tend to have a
> lower weight rating than chrome plated steel. Any exceptions? I do like
> stainless, but not at the expense of functionality.
>
> thanks
>
> nate
>
>

there's this thing:
<http://www.walmart.com/ip/Reese-Towpower-Tri-Ball-Draw-Bar/15125828>

depends if you need the drop i guess.

fwiu, there's not much uses 1-7/8 any more, it's mostly 2". and 2" is
usually rated to 5,000lbs, so you're going to need a big towing rig to
justify 2-5/8"

do you have a brake controller?


--
nomina rutrum rutrum

On 08/28/2011 05:37 AM, Nate Nagel wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> looking for opinions on hitch balls... I'm trying to put together a
> carry-on set of stuff for my truck and included in that in my mind
> should be all the various hitch balls that I may need (1-7/8", 2", 2-5/8")
>
> are any of the "switch ball" type things worth the money? Looking online
> it looks like I'd be better served by just buying three (well, actually,
> two, since I already have the 2" ball) and a wrench for the nut and a
> big crescent wrench (which I already have)

i should add, if you're going to be wrenching and un-wrenching these
things, re-loosening becomes much more of a risk. i'd use separate draw
bars and dedicated balls personally. besides, do you know what drop
you're going to need with these different balls? every trailer is
different it seems. if you tow a two-axle trailer, you've got to get
the ball height pretty well matched.


>
> Also, it appears that the stainless balls, while shiny, tend to have a
> lower weight rating than chrome plated steel. Any exceptions? I do like
> stainless, but not at the expense of functionality.
>
> thanks
>
> nate
>
>


--
nomina rutrum rutrum

On 08/28/2011 11:11 AM, jim beam wrote:
> On 08/28/2011 05:37 AM, Nate Nagel wrote:
>> Hi all,
>>
>> looking for opinions on hitch balls... I'm trying to put together a
>> carry-on set of stuff for my truck and included in that in my mind
>> should be all the various hitch balls that I may need (1-7/8", 2",
>> 2-5/8")
>>
>> are any of the "switch ball" type things worth the money? Looking online
>> it looks like I'd be better served by just buying three (well, actually,
>> two, since I already have the 2" ball) and a wrench for the nut and a
>> big crescent wrench (which I already have)
>
> i should add, if you're going to be wrenching and un-wrenching these
> things, re-loosening becomes much more of a risk. i'd use separate draw
> bars and dedicated balls personally. besides, do you know what drop
> you're going to need with these different balls? every trailer is
> different it seems. if you tow a two-axle trailer, you've got to get the
> ball height pretty well matched.

No idea. Was going to get an adjustable ball mount, because this is one
of those things where I don't actually *own* a trailer, can't see myself
towing more than once a year, but would like to have everything together
so that I don't have to run all around town and pay full retail for
everything when I actually do have to do it. (online prices for this
stuff are about 25% store retail, it seems.) Also I will not have this
truck forever (I hope) so I was trying to put together a "kit" so that
if/when I get another truck all I'd have to get would be the receiver
hitch itself and I'd already have everything else ready to go.

To the question you asked in another post, no I do not have a brake
controller, but that is something that I will be adding once I have
everything else together. My truck is far from ideal for towing
though... it's only a F-150 and six cylinder to boot :/ but supposedly
is rated to tow a considerable amount - I don't have the owner's manual
handy but I think it is >4000 lbs. I don't think I'd like to do that in
heavy traffic or for long distances though! Truck is in good mechanical
shape and just had brake job done w/ top of line pads but I'm thinking
that with two tons behind it it probably couldn't pull the skin off a
custard.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On Aug 28, 8:37*am, Nate Nagel > wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> looking for opinions on hitch balls... I'm trying to put together a
> carry-on set of stuff for my truck and included in that in my mind
> should be all the various hitch balls that I may need (1-7/8", 2", 2-5/8")
>
> are any of the "switch ball" type things worth the money? *Looking
> online it looks like I'd be better served by just buying three (well,
> actually, two, since I already have the 2" ball) and a wrench for the
> nut and a big crescent wrench (which I already have)
>
> Also, it appears that the stainless balls, while shiny, tend to have a
> lower weight rating than chrome plated steel. *Any exceptions? *I do
> like stainless, but not at the expense of functionality.
>
> thanks

WTF type of engineer did you say you intend to impersonate?

Buy a ball to fit your trailer. If you have to yank the trailer of
another I suspect they will have a ball to fit. If not, you stop at a
"store" and buy one.

I don't understand how or why you invent these conundrums from such
simple premises.

Your nitwitted ass, yanking a trailer, w/o enough sense to solve this
"problem", is a scary thought.
-----

- gpsman

On 08/28/2011 11:43 AM, gpsman wrote:
> On Aug 28, 8:37 am, Nate > wrote:
>> Hi all,
>>
>> looking for opinions on hitch balls... I'm trying to put together a
>> carry-on set of stuff for my truck and included in that in my mind
>> should be all the various hitch balls that I may need (1-7/8", 2", 2-5/8")
>>
>> are any of the "switch ball" type things worth the money? Looking
>> online it looks like I'd be better served by just buying three (well,
>> actually, two, since I already have the 2" ball) and a wrench for the
>> nut and a big crescent wrench (which I already have)
>>
>> Also, it appears that the stainless balls, while shiny, tend to have a
>> lower weight rating than chrome plated steel. Any exceptions? I do
>> like stainless, but not at the expense of functionality.
>>
>> thanks
>
> WTF type of engineer did you say you intend to impersonate?
>
> Buy a ball to fit your trailer. If you have to yank the trailer of
> another I suspect they will have a ball to fit. If not, you stop at a
> "store" and buy one.
>
> I don't understand how or why you invent these conundrums from such
> simple premises.
>
> Your nitwitted ass, yanking a trailer, w/o enough sense to solve this
> "problem", is a scary thought.
> -----
>
> - gpsman

If you don't have any advice to offer (and you clearly don't) **** off.
If you read the thread, you'd realize that I'm putting together a
"just in case" kit, and don't have a specific trailer in mind. I don't
want to stop at a "store" (SIC) as the prices in "stores" (SIC) are
astronomical and selection is limited; I'd prefer to buy online when I'm
bored and have free time (like now) so as not to spend "store" (SIC)
prices on items that I don't often use.

From what I've seen so far, if, say, I needed to borrow a friend's
trailer for a specific task and went to a "store" I would probably pay
MORE for one ball and one ball mount than I would ordering an adjustable
ball mount and three good balls online. I could use the money left over
to buy additional stuff I'd need like locks, chains, a storage bag/case,
etc...

In any case, it's not like I'd take advice from a long-time proven moron
like yourself, anyway.

For the record, I've been able to not only drive a vehicle towing a
trailer but back up a vehicle towing a boat trailer and launch/load said
boat since the summer after I got my driver's license.

Do you even *have* a driver's license? Some of the theories you've put
forward on driving are so dangerously stupid as to be frightening.

Finally, I fail to see the problem with doing research before
purchasing, something that you're apparently completely unfamiliar with,
as you appear to think that you know everything about everything, which
only goes to show that in reality you likely know little about little.
Part of doing "research" (look it up in the dictionary) might include
such activities as looking online at different products, reading
reviews, and asking the advice of those who have more experience and
knowledge than oneself. (hint: I know you haven't figured it out yet,
but that is NOT YOU. In fact, there's very few people on Usenet more
ignorant than you.) People who do "research" often make better
decisions than those who do not.

You must have an awful lot of free time, stalk stalk stalk stalker.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On 08/28/2011 08:36 AM, Nate Nagel wrote:
> On 08/28/2011 11:11 AM, jim beam wrote:
>> On 08/28/2011 05:37 AM, Nate Nagel wrote:
>>> Hi all,
>>>
>>> looking for opinions on hitch balls... I'm trying to put together a
>>> carry-on set of stuff for my truck and included in that in my mind
>>> should be all the various hitch balls that I may need (1-7/8", 2",
>>> 2-5/8")
>>>
>>> are any of the "switch ball" type things worth the money? Looking online
>>> it looks like I'd be better served by just buying three (well, actually,
>>> two, since I already have the 2" ball) and a wrench for the nut and a
>>> big crescent wrench (which I already have)
>>
>> i should add, if you're going to be wrenching and un-wrenching these
>> things, re-loosening becomes much more of a risk. i'd use separate draw
>> bars and dedicated balls personally. besides, do you know what drop
>> you're going to need with these different balls? every trailer is
>> different it seems. if you tow a two-axle trailer, you've got to get the
>> ball height pretty well matched.
>
> No idea. Was going to get an adjustable ball mount, because this is one
> of those things where I don't actually *own* a trailer, can't see myself
> towing more than once a year, but would like to have everything together
> so that I don't have to run all around town and pay full retail for
> everything when I actually do have to do it. (online prices for this
> stuff are about 25% store retail, it seems.)

fair enough, but assess your requirement for one or multi-axle trailer.
it's the latter that really sets you off down the need to match
heights road. if you have an idea of the kind of trailer you're more
likely to tow and gear up for that, it's probably the best use of the money.


> Also I will not have this
> truck forever (I hope) so I was trying to put together a "kit" so that
> if/when I get another truck all I'd have to get would be the receiver
> hitch itself and I'd already have everything else ready to go.
>
> To the question you asked in another post, no I do not have a brake
> controller, but that is something that I will be adding once I have
> everything else together. My truck is far from ideal for towing
> though... it's only a F-150 and six cylinder to boot :/ but supposedly
> is rated to tow a considerable amount - I don't have the owner's manual
> handy but I think it is >4000 lbs. I don't think I'd like to do that in
> heavy traffic or for long distances though! Truck is in good mechanical
> shape and just had brake job done w/ top of line pads but I'm thinking
> that with two tons behind it it probably couldn't pull the skin off a
> custard.
>
> nate
>

it should easily pull rated, probably double that. i been to europe and
there, the crazy natives pull huge trailers with tiny little hatchbacks.
they slow way down and have to change gears on hills [which we seem to
see as a sign of weakness] but they still get there. even an old f150
has considerably greater towing capacity than that, and you probably
won't need to change gears so much!

the difference though comes with having brakes. over there, almost all
trailers have brakes. here, for reasons i simply don't understand, it's
not seen as either a legal requirement [??????????] or even necessary.
utterly bizarre. i won't drive a trailer without them personally, but
i'm a pedantic asshole freak.


--
nomina rutrum rutrum

On 08/28/2011 11:57 AM, jim beam wrote:
> On 08/28/2011 08:36 AM, Nate Nagel wrote:
>> On 08/28/2011 11:11 AM, jim beam wrote:
>>> On 08/28/2011 05:37 AM, Nate Nagel wrote:
>>>> Hi all,
>>>>
>>>> looking for opinions on hitch balls... I'm trying to put together a
>>>> carry-on set of stuff for my truck and included in that in my mind
>>>> should be all the various hitch balls that I may need (1-7/8", 2",
>>>> 2-5/8")
>>>>
>>>> are any of the "switch ball" type things worth the money? Looking
>>>> online
>>>> it looks like I'd be better served by just buying three (well,
>>>> actually,
>>>> two, since I already have the 2" ball) and a wrench for the nut and a
>>>> big crescent wrench (which I already have)
>>>
>>> i should add, if you're going to be wrenching and un-wrenching these
>>> things, re-loosening becomes much more of a risk. i'd use separate draw
>>> bars and dedicated balls personally. besides, do you know what drop
>>> you're going to need with these different balls? every trailer is
>>> different it seems. if you tow a two-axle trailer, you've got to get the
>>> ball height pretty well matched.
>>
>> No idea. Was going to get an adjustable ball mount, because this is one
>> of those things where I don't actually *own* a trailer, can't see myself
>> towing more than once a year, but would like to have everything together
>> so that I don't have to run all around town and pay full retail for
>> everything when I actually do have to do it. (online prices for this
>> stuff are about 25% store retail, it seems.)
>
> fair enough, but assess your requirement for one or multi-axle trailer.
> it's the latter that really sets you off down the need to match heights
> road. if you have an idea of the kind of trailer you're more likely to
> tow and gear up for that, it's probably the best use of the money.

With this truck, most likely small utility trailer, or else a tow dolly
for pulling a car. I don't know that I would pull a full-sized car
trailer with this truck, although I've done it with a 1/2 ton Chevy
before w/ no problems. (had to sweet talk the U-Haul guy though, as I'd
drove all the way from PA to MI to pick up a car and even though I'd
reserved the trailer beforehand, and even given them both the tow
vehicle I was planning on using and the car that was going on the
trailer - a Porsche 914 - when I got there somehow the combination was
suddenly unacceptable. *******s.)

>
>> Also I will not have this
>> truck forever (I hope) so I was trying to put together a "kit" so that
>> if/when I get another truck all I'd have to get would be the receiver
>> hitch itself and I'd already have everything else ready to go.
>>
>> To the question you asked in another post, no I do not have a brake
>> controller, but that is something that I will be adding once I have
>> everything else together. My truck is far from ideal for towing
>> though... it's only a F-150 and six cylinder to boot :/ but supposedly
>> is rated to tow a considerable amount - I don't have the owner's manual
>> handy but I think it is >4000 lbs. I don't think I'd like to do that in
>> heavy traffic or for long distances though! Truck is in good mechanical
>> shape and just had brake job done w/ top of line pads but I'm thinking
>> that with two tons behind it it probably couldn't pull the skin off a
>> custard.
>>
>> nate
>>
>
> it should easily pull rated, probably double that. i been to europe and
> there, the crazy natives pull huge trailers with tiny little hatchbacks.
> they slow way down and have to change gears on hills [which we seem to
> see as a sign of weakness] but they still get there. even an old f150
> has considerably greater towing capacity than that, and you probably
> won't need to change gears so much!

Fair point, but traffic around where I live is a bit heavy and not very
polite or clueful, so having both good brakes and lots of power is
definitely an asset. I'd certainly have rather had something 3/4 ton or
bigger and with a Diesel, because I use the truck so seldom that the
weight/economy penalty is irrelevant, but it would have added another
order of magnitude to the price tag to find something in equivalent shape.

> the difference though comes with having brakes. over there, almost all
> trailers have brakes. here, for reasons i simply don't understand, it's
> not seen as either a legal requirement [??????????] or even necessary.
> utterly bizarre. i won't drive a trailer without them personally, but
> i'm a pedantic asshole freak.

AFAIK it *is* a legal requirement to have trailer brakes on anything
over 3000 lbs in most states. I agree that they're certainly desirable
on anything heavier than the smallest utility trailers, and also, I hate
surge brakes (that's what U-haul uses on their trailers, but they
certainly don't feel comfortable when braking, and backing up with them
is practically abusive.)

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On 08/28/2011 09:11 AM, Nate Nagel wrote:
> On 08/28/2011 11:57 AM, jim beam wrote:
>> On 08/28/2011 08:36 AM, Nate Nagel wrote:
>>> On 08/28/2011 11:11 AM, jim beam wrote:
>>>> On 08/28/2011 05:37 AM, Nate Nagel wrote:
>>>>> Hi all,
>>>>>
>>>>> looking for opinions on hitch balls... I'm trying to put together a
>>>>> carry-on set of stuff for my truck and included in that in my mind
>>>>> should be all the various hitch balls that I may need (1-7/8", 2",
>>>>> 2-5/8")
>>>>>
>>>>> are any of the "switch ball" type things worth the money? Looking
>>>>> online
>>>>> it looks like I'd be better served by just buying three (well,
>>>>> actually,
>>>>> two, since I already have the 2" ball) and a wrench for the nut and a
>>>>> big crescent wrench (which I already have)
>>>>
>>>> i should add, if you're going to be wrenching and un-wrenching these
>>>> things, re-loosening becomes much more of a risk. i'd use separate draw
>>>> bars and dedicated balls personally. besides, do you know what drop
>>>> you're going to need with these different balls? every trailer is
>>>> different it seems. if you tow a two-axle trailer, you've got to get
>>>> the
>>>> ball height pretty well matched.
>>>
>>> No idea. Was going to get an adjustable ball mount, because this is one
>>> of those things where I don't actually *own* a trailer, can't see myself
>>> towing more than once a year, but would like to have everything together
>>> so that I don't have to run all around town and pay full retail for
>>> everything when I actually do have to do it. (online prices for this
>>> stuff are about 25% store retail, it seems.)
>>
>> fair enough, but assess your requirement for one or multi-axle trailer.
>> it's the latter that really sets you off down the need to match heights
>> road. if you have an idea of the kind of trailer you're more likely to
>> tow and gear up for that, it's probably the best use of the money.
>
> With this truck, most likely small utility trailer, or else a tow dolly
> for pulling a car. I don't know that I would pull a full-sized car
> trailer with this truck, although I've done it with a 1/2 ton Chevy
> before w/ no problems. (had to sweet talk the U-Haul guy though, as I'd
> drove all the way from PA to MI to pick up a car and even though I'd
> reserved the trailer beforehand, and even given them both the tow
> vehicle I was planning on using and the car that was going on the
> trailer - a Porsche 914 - when I got there somehow the combination was
> suddenly unacceptable. *******s.)
>
>>
>>> Also I will not have this
>>> truck forever (I hope) so I was trying to put together a "kit" so that
>>> if/when I get another truck all I'd have to get would be the receiver
>>> hitch itself and I'd already have everything else ready to go.
>>>
>>> To the question you asked in another post, no I do not have a brake
>>> controller, but that is something that I will be adding once I have
>>> everything else together. My truck is far from ideal for towing
>>> though... it's only a F-150 and six cylinder to boot :/ but supposedly
>>> is rated to tow a considerable amount - I don't have the owner's manual
>>> handy but I think it is >4000 lbs. I don't think I'd like to do that in
>>> heavy traffic or for long distances though! Truck is in good mechanical
>>> shape and just had brake job done w/ top of line pads but I'm thinking
>>> that with two tons behind it it probably couldn't pull the skin off a
>>> custard.
>>>
>>> nate
>>>
>>
>> it should easily pull rated, probably double that. i been to europe and
>> there, the crazy natives pull huge trailers with tiny little hatchbacks.
>> they slow way down and have to change gears on hills [which we seem to
>> see as a sign of weakness] but they still get there. even an old f150
>> has considerably greater towing capacity than that, and you probably
>> won't need to change gears so much!
>
> Fair point, but traffic around where I live is a bit heavy and not very
> polite or clueful, so having both good brakes and lots of power is
> definitely an asset. I'd certainly have rather had something 3/4 ton or
> bigger and with a Diesel, because I use the truck so seldom that the
> weight/economy penalty is irrelevant, but it would have added another
> order of magnitude to the price tag to find something in equivalent shape.
>
>> the difference though comes with having brakes. over there, almost all
>> trailers have brakes. here, for reasons i simply don't understand, it's
>> not seen as either a legal requirement [??????????] or even necessary.
>> utterly bizarre. i won't drive a trailer without them personally, but
>> i'm a pedantic asshole freak.
>
> AFAIK it *is* a legal requirement to have trailer brakes on anything
> over 3000 lbs in most states. I agree that they're certainly desirable
> on anything heavier than the smallest utility trailers, and also, I hate
> surge brakes (that's what U-haul uses on their trailers, but they
> certainly don't feel comfortable when braking,

you mean hydraulic? the heavy duty stuff is supposed to be damped. if
not, they're not working right or not adjusted properly. [it's a "shock
absorber" type oil damper on the slider pinion.]

on the light duty, they really don't need it if the brakes are working
right.


> and backing up with them
> is practically abusive.)

what about the lock-out??? that's what it's for.


>
> nate
>

for electric, there are "dumb" and inertial. dumb ramps up the braking
force as a function of time depending on an adjuster you set. [somewhat
retarded imo since no two /required/ braking rates are ever the same,
but those dumb things apply it the same unless you try and jockey the
thing in use.] inertial is supposed to sense the braking force and
adjust output accordingly...

i think electric braking is a fundamental mistake personally, and
completely inapplicable to boat applications, but who the heck am i to
try and address the mighty inertia of an industry that thinks you need a
huge-ass truck to tow anything and hasn't changed any of its practices
in the last 60+ years?


--
nomina rutrum rutrum

On 08/28/2011 12:52 PM, jim beam wrote:
> On 08/28/2011 09:11 AM, Nate Nagel wrote:
>> On 08/28/2011 11:57 AM, jim beam wrote:
>>> On 08/28/2011 08:36 AM, Nate Nagel wrote:
>>>> On 08/28/2011 11:11 AM, jim beam wrote:
>>>>> On 08/28/2011 05:37 AM, Nate Nagel wrote:
>>>>>> Hi all,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> looking for opinions on hitch balls... I'm trying to put together a
>>>>>> carry-on set of stuff for my truck and included in that in my mind
>>>>>> should be all the various hitch balls that I may need (1-7/8", 2",
>>>>>> 2-5/8")
>>>>>>
>>>>>> are any of the "switch ball" type things worth the money? Looking
>>>>>> online
>>>>>> it looks like I'd be better served by just buying three (well,
>>>>>> actually,
>>>>>> two, since I already have the 2" ball) and a wrench for the nut and a
>>>>>> big crescent wrench (which I already have)
>>>>>
>>>>> i should add, if you're going to be wrenching and un-wrenching these
>>>>> things, re-loosening becomes much more of a risk. i'd use separate
>>>>> draw
>>>>> bars and dedicated balls personally. besides, do you know what drop
>>>>> you're going to need with these different balls? every trailer is
>>>>> different it seems. if you tow a two-axle trailer, you've got to get
>>>>> the
>>>>> ball height pretty well matched.
>>>>
>>>> No idea. Was going to get an adjustable ball mount, because this is one
>>>> of those things where I don't actually *own* a trailer, can't see
>>>> myself
>>>> towing more than once a year, but would like to have everything
>>>> together
>>>> so that I don't have to run all around town and pay full retail for
>>>> everything when I actually do have to do it. (online prices for this
>>>> stuff are about 25% store retail, it seems.)
>>>
>>> fair enough, but assess your requirement for one or multi-axle trailer.
>>> it's the latter that really sets you off down the need to match heights
>>> road. if you have an idea of the kind of trailer you're more likely to
>>> tow and gear up for that, it's probably the best use of the money.
>>
>> With this truck, most likely small utility trailer, or else a tow dolly
>> for pulling a car. I don't know that I would pull a full-sized car
>> trailer with this truck, although I've done it with a 1/2 ton Chevy
>> before w/ no problems. (had to sweet talk the U-Haul guy though, as I'd
>> drove all the way from PA to MI to pick up a car and even though I'd
>> reserved the trailer beforehand, and even given them both the tow
>> vehicle I was planning on using and the car that was going on the
>> trailer - a Porsche 914 - when I got there somehow the combination was
>> suddenly unacceptable. *******s.)
>>
>>>
>>>> Also I will not have this
>>>> truck forever (I hope) so I was trying to put together a "kit" so that
>>>> if/when I get another truck all I'd have to get would be the receiver
>>>> hitch itself and I'd already have everything else ready to go.
>>>>
>>>> To the question you asked in another post, no I do not have a brake
>>>> controller, but that is something that I will be adding once I have
>>>> everything else together. My truck is far from ideal for towing
>>>> though... it's only a F-150 and six cylinder to boot :/ but supposedly
>>>> is rated to tow a considerable amount - I don't have the owner's manual
>>>> handy but I think it is >4000 lbs. I don't think I'd like to do that in
>>>> heavy traffic or for long distances though! Truck is in good mechanical
>>>> shape and just had brake job done w/ top of line pads but I'm thinking
>>>> that with two tons behind it it probably couldn't pull the skin off a
>>>> custard.
>>>>
>>>> nate
>>>>
>>>
>>> it should easily pull rated, probably double that. i been to europe and
>>> there, the crazy natives pull huge trailers with tiny little hatchbacks.
>>> they slow way down and have to change gears on hills [which we seem to
>>> see as a sign of weakness] but they still get there. even an old f150
>>> has considerably greater towing capacity than that, and you probably
>>> won't need to change gears so much!
>>
>> Fair point, but traffic around where I live is a bit heavy and not very
>> polite or clueful, so having both good brakes and lots of power is
>> definitely an asset. I'd certainly have rather had something 3/4 ton or
>> bigger and with a Diesel, because I use the truck so seldom that the
>> weight/economy penalty is irrelevant, but it would have added another
>> order of magnitude to the price tag to find something in equivalent
>> shape.
>>
>>> the difference though comes with having brakes. over there, almost all
>>> trailers have brakes. here, for reasons i simply don't understand, it's
>>> not seen as either a legal requirement [??????????] or even necessary.
>>> utterly bizarre. i won't drive a trailer without them personally, but
>>> i'm a pedantic asshole freak.
>>
>> AFAIK it *is* a legal requirement to have trailer brakes on anything
>> over 3000 lbs in most states. I agree that they're certainly desirable
>> on anything heavier than the smallest utility trailers, and also, I hate
>> surge brakes (that's what U-haul uses on their trailers, but they
>> certainly don't feel comfortable when braking,
>
> you mean hydraulic? the heavy duty stuff is supposed to be damped. if
> not, they're not working right or not adjusted properly. [it's a "shock
> absorber" type oil damper on the slider pinion.]

Well, I guess they weren't :/ I've towed a couple rental car trailers
and they all felt bad. Of course, I shouldn't be surprised that a
rental place doesn't keep their stuff in top shape... last moving truck
I rented had a door sprung so badly that it didn't shut right and had a
deafening whistle at speed, and the (automatic) transmission was making
terminal noises every time it shifted.

>
> on the light duty, they really don't need it if the brakes are working
> right.
>
>
>> and backing up with them
>> is practically abusive.)
>
> what about the lock-out??? that's what it's for.

If there is one on a U-Haul car trailer, they don't tell you where it
is, they just say "don't back up." Yeah, like it's possible to do that.
Those are my only experience with surge brakes, so I wouldn't know
where to look for a manual lock-out.


> for electric, there are "dumb" and inertial. dumb ramps up the braking
> force as a function of time depending on an adjuster you set. [somewhat
> retarded imo since no two /required/ braking rates are ever the same,
> but those dumb things apply it the same unless you try and jockey the
> thing in use.] inertial is supposed to sense the braking force and
> adjust output accordingly...
>
> i think electric braking is a fundamental mistake personally, and
> completely inapplicable to boat applications, but who the heck am i to
> try and address the mighty inertia of an industry that thinks you need a
> huge-ass truck to tow anything and hasn't changed any of its practices
> in the last 60+ years?

Hmm, most people I know that tow seem to prefer electric, at least with
a good controller. Would be interested to hear more behind your
reasoning. It doesn't seem that investing in a good controller would be
a bad idea anyway, as it seems that it could be moved to another truck
without having to repurchase the whole thing (I think the consensus last
time I looked was that the Tekonsha "Prodigy" was the one to get...)

nate


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