Wiring Problem

Hi all. I have a 1965 Type 1 (South African Edition) which was rebuilt in
2001. However, I have run into a wiring problem. The car runs fine until I
put on the headlights. Then the wire from the battery to the ignition switch
heats up rapidly at the ignition switch and the connector from the headlight
relay through the fuse box (on the output side of the fuse box) also heats
up. Also, the two wires to the light switch (input and output) at the switch
heat up. None of the fuses blow.

To remedy the problem, I have tried the following. Firstly, I thought one of
the bulbs might be faulty, so I replaced both (H4 55/60). No dice. I thought
that one of the headlight units might nbe shorting, so I connected the bulbs
directly. That didn't work either. So, I put another ignition switch. No
change. I changed the light switch and I put in a new wire from the battery
to the ignition switch, sufficient to carry 30 amps. Still no change. I ran
a new hot wire to terminal 30 on the headlight relay. No change.

Then, terminal 30 on the relay came off and the lights still worked. As far
as I am aware, this should not be happen. So I swapped out the headlight
relay with another one. This relay also powered the lights without terminal
30 connected. I'm stumped. What can I try next? Replace the cables from the
fuse box to the headlights? Somebody told me that one of the cables in the
car might have high resistance.

Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance.

Regards,
Elvin

<The car runs fine until I
put on the headlights. Then the wire from the battery to the ignition
switch
heats up rapidly at the ignition switch and the connector from the
headlight
relay through the fuse box (on the output side of the fuse box) also
heats
up. Also, the two wires to the light switch (input and output) at the
switch
heat up.

If like you said, "every thing is fine until I turn on the headlights",
check the headlight ground wire connections. Might want to replace the
headlight wires too.

Get in touch with Speedy Jim at:
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

also might want to go to these links:
http://www.vw-resource.com/

http://www.vw-resource.com/mihov_index.html

Elvin Rambaran wrote:

> Hi all. I have a 1965 Type 1 (South African Edition) which was rebuilt in
> 2001. However, I have run into a wiring problem. The car runs fine until I
> put on the headlights. Then the wire from the battery to the ignition switch
> heats up rapidly at the ignition switch and the connector from the headlight
> relay through the fuse box (on the output side of the fuse box) also heats
> up. Also, the two wires to the light switch (input and output) at the switch
> heat up. None of the fuses blow.
>
> To remedy the problem, I have tried the following. Firstly, I thought one of
> the bulbs might be faulty, so I replaced both (H4 55/60). No dice. I thought
> that one of the headlight units might nbe shorting, so I connected the bulbs
> directly. That didn't work either. So, I put another ignition switch. No
> change. I changed the light switch and I put in a new wire from the battery
> to the ignition switch, sufficient to carry 30 amps. Still no change. I ran
> a new hot wire to terminal 30 on the headlight relay. No change.
>
> Then, terminal 30 on the relay came off and the lights still worked. As far
> as I am aware, this should not be happen. So I swapped out the headlight
> relay with another one. This relay also powered the lights without terminal
> 30 connected. I'm stumped. What can I try next? Replace the cables from the
> fuse box to the headlights? Somebody told me that one of the cables in the
> car might have high resistance.
>
> Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance.
>
> Regards,
> Elvin
>
>
>
>

Overheating at those switch terminals is a common problem.
The design of the switch is poor and the connections at the
terminals and inside the switch generate too much heat due to
resistance.

You might consider using a heavy-duty toggle switch for the
headlights.

Term #30 on the dimmer relay is used to "flash" the hi-beams
when the headlights are not in use. It is not necessary to
have this connected to the Ignition switch; just jumper 30 to 56.

Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

Hi Jim. Even if I bypass the switch and join the wires, the wires still heat
up. So, not a switch problem. However, I will follow your suggestion and
replace the switch to avoid other problems in the future.

Regards,
Elvin

"Speedy Jim" > wrote in message
om...
> Elvin Rambaran wrote:
>
> > Hi all. I have a 1965 Type 1 (South African Edition) which was rebuilt
in
> > 2001. However, I have run into a wiring problem. The car runs fine until
I
> > put on the headlights. Then the wire from the battery to the ignition
switch
> > heats up rapidly at the ignition switch and the connector from the
headlight
> > relay through the fuse box (on the output side of the fuse box) also
heats
> > up. Also, the two wires to the light switch (input and output) at the
switch
> > heat up. None of the fuses blow.
> >
> > To remedy the problem, I have tried the following. Firstly, I thought
one of
> > the bulbs might be faulty, so I replaced both (H4 55/60). No dice. I
thought
> > that one of the headlight units might nbe shorting, so I connected the
bulbs
> > directly. That didn't work either. So, I put another ignition switch. No
> > change. I changed the light switch and I put in a new wire from the
battery
> > to the ignition switch, sufficient to carry 30 amps. Still no change. I
ran
> > a new hot wire to terminal 30 on the headlight relay. No change.
> >
> > Then, terminal 30 on the relay came off and the lights still worked. As
far
> > as I am aware, this should not be happen. So I swapped out the headlight
> > relay with another one. This relay also powered the lights without
terminal
> > 30 connected. I'm stumped. What can I try next? Replace the cables from
the
> > fuse box to the headlights? Somebody told me that one of the cables in
the
> > car might have high resistance.
> >
> > Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Elvin
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> Overheating at those switch terminals is a common problem.
> The design of the switch is poor and the connections at the
> terminals and inside the switch generate too much heat due to
> resistance.
>
> You might consider using a heavy-duty toggle switch for the
> headlights.
>
> Term #30 on the dimmer relay is used to "flash" the hi-beams
> when the headlights are not in use. It is not necessary to
> have this connected to the Ignition switch; just jumper 30 to 56.
>
> Speedy Jim
> http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

Hi. Thanjks for the suggestion. I did try grounding the earth wire directly
to the battery, but no dice. I will now replace all the wires from the fuse
box onwards and see what happens.

Regards,
Elvin
> wrote in message
oups.com...
> <The car runs fine until I
> put on the headlights. Then the wire from the battery to the ignition
> switch
> heats up rapidly at the ignition switch and the connector from the
> headlight
> relay through the fuse box (on the output side of the fuse box) also
> heats
> up. Also, the two wires to the light switch (input and output) at the
> switch
> heat up.
>
> If like you said, "every thing is fine until I turn on the headlights",
> check the headlight ground wire connections. Might want to replace the
> headlight wires too.
>
> Get in touch with Speedy Jim at:
> http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
>
> also might want to go to these links:
> http://www.vw-resource.com/
>
> http://www.vw-resource.com/mihov_index.html
>

With H4 55/60 watt headlights you should probably have a separate relay installed for the lights. Run a 10 gauge (fused) wire
directly from the battery to the relay and use the feed from the headlight switch to energize the relay. Feed the lights from this
relay (just like you would do if installing aftermarket fog lights). I doubt the wiring system in 1965 was designed to carry the
load of these lights.

"Elvin Rambaran" > wrote in message ...
> Hi Jim. Even if I bypass the switch and join the wires, the wires still heat
> up. So, not a switch problem. However, I will follow your suggestion and
> replace the switch to avoid other problems in the future.
>
> Regards,
> Elvin
>
> "Speedy Jim" > wrote in message
> om...
>> Elvin Rambaran wrote:
>>
>> > Hi all. I have a 1965 Type 1 (South African Edition) which was rebuilt
> in
>> > 2001. However, I have run into a wiring problem. The car runs fine until
> I
>> > put on the headlights. Then the wire from the battery to the ignition
> switch
>> > heats up rapidly at the ignition switch and the connector from the
> headlight
>> > relay through the fuse box (on the output side of the fuse box) also
> heats
>> > up. Also, the two wires to the light switch (input and output) at the
> switch
>> > heat up. None of the fuses blow.
>> >
>> > To remedy the problem, I have tried the following. Firstly, I thought
> one of
>> > the bulbs might be faulty, so I replaced both (H4 55/60). No dice. I
> thought
>> > that one of the headlight units might nbe shorting, so I connected the
> bulbs
>> > directly. That didn't work either. So, I put another ignition switch. No
>> > change. I changed the light switch and I put in a new wire from the
> battery
>> > to the ignition switch, sufficient to carry 30 amps. Still no change. I
> ran
>> > a new hot wire to terminal 30 on the headlight relay. No change.
>> >
>> > Then, terminal 30 on the relay came off and the lights still worked. As
> far
>> > as I am aware, this should not be happen. So I swapped out the headlight
>> > relay with another one. This relay also powered the lights without
> terminal
>> > 30 connected. I'm stumped. What can I try next? Replace the cables from
> the
>> > fuse box to the headlights? Somebody told me that one of the cables in
> the
>> > car might have high resistance.
>> >
>> > Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance.
>> >
>> > Regards,
>> > Elvin
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>> Overheating at those switch terminals is a common problem.
>> The design of the switch is poor and the connections at the
>> terminals and inside the switch generate too much heat due to
>> resistance.
>>
>> You might consider using a heavy-duty toggle switch for the
>> headlights.
>>
>> Term #30 on the dimmer relay is used to "flash" the hi-beams
>> when the headlights are not in use. It is not necessary to
>> have this connected to the Ignition switch; just jumper 30 to 56.
>>
>> Speedy Jim
>> http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
>
>

Thanks Erik. The wiring was all replaced in 2001. But yes, it does make
sense to use a relay. Will do so this evening and report back.

Regards,
Elvin

"Erik Dillenkofer" > wrote in message
news
> With H4 55/60 watt headlights you should probably have a separate relay
installed for the lights. Run a 10 gauge (fused) wire
> directly from the battery to the relay and use the feed from the headlight
switch to energize the relay. Feed the lights from this
> relay (just like you would do if installing aftermarket fog lights). I
doubt the wiring system in 1965 was designed to carry the
> load of these lights.
>
> "Elvin Rambaran" > wrote in message
...
> > Hi Jim. Even if I bypass the switch and join the wires, the wires still
heat
> > up. So, not a switch problem. However, I will follow your suggestion and
> > replace the switch to avoid other problems in the future.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Elvin
> >
> > "Speedy Jim" > wrote in message
> > om...
> >> Elvin Rambaran wrote:
> >>
> >> > Hi all. I have a 1965 Type 1 (South African Edition) which was
rebuilt
> > in
> >> > 2001. However, I have run into a wiring problem. The car runs fine
until
> > I
> >> > put on the headlights. Then the wire from the battery to the ignition
> > switch
> >> > heats up rapidly at the ignition switch and the connector from the
> > headlight
> >> > relay through the fuse box (on the output side of the fuse box) also
> > heats
> >> > up. Also, the two wires to the light switch (input and output) at the
> > switch
> >> > heat up. None of the fuses blow.
> >> >
> >> > To remedy the problem, I have tried the following. Firstly, I thought
> > one of
> >> > the bulbs might be faulty, so I replaced both (H4 55/60). No dice. I
> > thought
> >> > that one of the headlight units might nbe shorting, so I connected
the
> > bulbs
> >> > directly. That didn't work either. So, I put another ignition switch.
No
> >> > change. I changed the light switch and I put in a new wire from the
> > battery
> >> > to the ignition switch, sufficient to carry 30 amps. Still no change.
I
> > ran
> >> > a new hot wire to terminal 30 on the headlight relay. No change.
> >> >
> >> > Then, terminal 30 on the relay came off and the lights still worked.
As
> > far
> >> > as I am aware, this should not be happen. So I swapped out the
headlight
> >> > relay with another one. This relay also powered the lights without
> > terminal
> >> > 30 connected. I'm stumped. What can I try next? Replace the cables
from
> > the
> >> > fuse box to the headlights? Somebody told me that one of the cables
in
> > the
> >> > car might have high resistance.
> >> >
> >> > Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance.
> >> >
> >> > Regards,
> >> > Elvin
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >> Overheating at those switch terminals is a common problem.
> >> The design of the switch is poor and the connections at the
> >> terminals and inside the switch generate too much heat due to
> >> resistance.
> >>
> >> You might consider using a heavy-duty toggle switch for the
> >> headlights.
> >>
> >> Term #30 on the dimmer relay is used to "flash" the hi-beams
> >> when the headlights are not in use. It is not necessary to
> >> have this connected to the Ignition switch; just jumper 30 to 56.
> >>
> >> Speedy Jim
> >> http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
> >
> >
>
>