Oil Pressure Line

Hey group! Last week, I had a friend help me replace the water pump in my
93 LX and in the process the oil pressure tubing busted a few inches from
the sending unit. Unfortunately, I didn't know this until after I painted
hot oil around the block. Lesson learned: run the car before you take it
out. Anyway, fortunately no damage was done because I cut the engine as
soon as I realized the guage showed no oil pressure. We pulled over,
plugged the line, and topped off the oil.

I'd like to replace the line myself before the plugged line breaks, but I'm
not sure how. I bought the car the way it is so I don't have any manuals.
I traced where the line goes (sending unit to back of the gauge) but not
sure how to get the old tubing off and put new tubing on. Also, the old
line looks like it was 1/8" nylon and was brittle as hell (i'm lucky it
didn't bust on the highway) so is the braided steel tubing any better. My
gauge is an autometer phantom alongside a water temp gauge placed in the
middle vent above the AC controls.

In case anyone wants to see it, I have a pic of it up he
http://members.cox.net/jdownes79/mustang2.jpg

Thanks in advance

James

JD wrote:
> Hey group! Last week, I had a friend help me replace the water pump in my
> 93 LX and in the process the oil pressure tubing busted a few inches from
> the sending unit. Unfortunately, I didn't know this until after I painted
> hot oil around the block. Lesson learned: run the car before you take it
> out. Anyway, fortunately no damage was done because I cut the engine as
> soon as I realized the guage showed no oil pressure. We pulled over,
> plugged the line, and topped off the oil.
>
> I'd like to replace the line myself before the plugged line breaks, but I'm
> not sure how. I bought the car the way it is so I don't have any manuals.
> I traced where the line goes (sending unit to back of the gauge) but not
> sure how to get the old tubing off and put new tubing on. Also, the old
> line looks like it was 1/8" nylon and was brittle as hell (i'm lucky it
> didn't bust on the highway) so is the braided steel tubing any better. My
> gauge is an autometer phantom alongside a water temp gauge placed in the
> middle vent above the AC controls.
>
> In case anyone wants to see it, I have a pic of it up he
> http://members.cox.net/jdownes79/mustang2.jpg
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> James
>
>
Why not ditch the mechanical and get an electric?

--
Tropic Green Y2K 5 Speed Mustang GT
With Bits and Pieces
http://tinyurl.com/3w3sv

JD wrote:
> Hey group! Last week, I had a friend help me replace the water pump in my
> 93 LX and in the process the oil pressure tubing busted a few inches from
> the sending unit. Unfortunately, I didn't know this until after I painted
> hot oil around the block. Lesson learned: run the car before you take it
> out. Anyway, fortunately no damage was done because I cut the engine as
> soon as I realized the guage showed no oil pressure. We pulled over,
> plugged the line, and topped off the oil.
>
> I'd like to replace the line myself before the plugged line breaks, but I'm
> not sure how. I bought the car the way it is so I don't have any manuals.
> I traced where the line goes (sending unit to back of the gauge) but not
> sure how to get the old tubing off and put new tubing on. Also, the old
> line looks like it was 1/8" nylon and was brittle as hell (i'm lucky it
> didn't bust on the highway) so is the braided steel tubing any better. My
> gauge is an autometer phantom alongside a water temp gauge placed in the
> middle vent above the AC controls.
>
> In case anyone wants to see it, I have a pic of it up he
> http://members.cox.net/jdownes79/mustang2.jpg
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> James
>
>
What you have is a standard mechanical aftermarket
pressure gauge. Most of them use that nylon line which
does become very brittle over time. The line slips
through the brass fitting, and then a compression nut
fits over the nylon line. When you screw it all
together, the conmpression fitting bites down in to the
line and forms a tight seal. It works real well - for
a while.
You can replace the mechaical with an electric.
But the electric sender unit is large, and you need an
extension to move it out away from the block so it will
fit. Ford starting doing that in the mid sixties. You
can buy the alum extension or just make one from brass
fittings.
You can also buy new compression fittings and
nylon line and go back to the way it was. This is very
cheap, but will only last a couple of years.
My suggestion is to find a find a place in town
that custom makes hydraulic lines. Figure out how long
the line should be, and what fittings you need on
each. A shop will custom make you a line to fit
exactly, and it will last forever. Make sure one end
has a swivel fitting.

--
..boB
1997 HD FXDWG - Turbocharged!
2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92
1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver
1966 FFR Cobra - Ongoing project

JD wrote:
> Hey group! Last week, I had a friend help me replace the water pump in my
> 93 LX and in the process the oil pressure tubing busted a few inches from
> the sending unit. Unfortunately, I didn't know this until after I painted
> hot oil around the block. Lesson learned: run the car before you take it
> out. Anyway, fortunately no damage was done because I cut the engine as
> soon as I realized the guage showed no oil pressure. We pulled over,
> plugged the line, and topped off the oil.
>
> I'd like to replace the line myself before the plugged line breaks, but I'm
> not sure how. I bought the car the way it is so I don't have any manuals.
> I traced where the line goes (sending unit to back of the gauge) but not
> sure how to get the old tubing off and put new tubing on. Also, the old
> line looks like it was 1/8" nylon and was brittle as hell (i'm lucky it
> didn't bust on the highway) so is the braided steel tubing any better. My
> gauge is an autometer phantom alongside a water temp gauge placed in the
> middle vent above the AC controls.
>
> In case anyone wants to see it, I have a pic of it up he
> http://members.cox.net/jdownes79/mustang2.jpg
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> James
>

My suggestion is to go to your local hardware store and buy some 1/8"
copper line and appropriate fittings. The copper line bends real easy,
but care needs to be taken not to kink it when bending it. My suggestion
is to first pass the line through the firewall from the engine
compartment, and attach to the gauge with the right compression fitting.
Then route the line in the same manner as the nylon line was routed,
and attach to the sender with the proper fittings. I prefer the
mechanical gauge over the electric ones because the mechanical ones are
more accurate. The only electrical sending unit I'd use for oil pressure
would be a low pressure cut off switch to shut the ignition down should
you loose oil pressure. If you want to make your own extension to move
the fitting away from the block, you can use a short piece of 1/4" (if I
remember correctly) pipe threaded on both ends, with either a coupler or
a T on the other end. If you use the T, and only connecting the line to
it, then install a plug in the other opening. I would install the T so
that you don't have to redo everything to add a low pressure switch in
the future.

Gary

GEB wrote:
> JD wrote:
>
>> Hey group! Last week, I had a friend help me replace the water pump
>> in my 93 LX and in the process the oil pressure tubing busted a few
>> inches from the sending unit. Unfortunately, I didn't know this until
>> after I painted hot oil around the block. Lesson learned: run the
>> car before you take it out. Anyway, fortunately no damage was done
>> because I cut the engine as soon as I realized the guage showed no oil
>> pressure. We pulled over, plugged the line, and topped off the oil.
>>
>> I'd like to replace the line myself before the plugged line breaks,
>> but I'm not sure how. I bought the car the way it is so I don't have
>> any manuals. I traced where the line goes (sending unit to back of the
>> gauge) but not sure how to get the old tubing off and put new tubing
>> on. Also, the old line looks like it was 1/8" nylon and was brittle
>> as hell (i'm lucky it didn't bust on the highway) so is the braided
>> steel tubing any better. My gauge is an autometer phantom alongside
>> a water temp gauge placed in the middle vent above the AC controls.
>>
>> In case anyone wants to see it, I have a pic of it up he
>> http://members.cox.net/jdownes79/mustang2.jpg
>>
>> Thanks in advance
>>
>> James
>
>
> My suggestion is to go to your local hardware store and buy some 1/8"
> copper line and appropriate fittings.

Not a good choice here. Copper is ok in a car as
long as it's all firmly attached to the driveline or
the frame and well supported. Making the transition
from moving engine to stationary chassis requires a
flexible line.

> The only electrical sending unit I'd use for oil pressure
> would be a low pressure cut off switch to shut the ignition down should
> you loose oil pressure.

This is an excellent idea. There are a number of
circuits that will interrupt the ignition when the oil
pressure drops. It can't be a simple on-off switch, as
you need to allow the car to start with almost pressure.

> If you want to make your own extension to move
> the fitting away from the block, you can use a short piece of 1/4" (if I
> remember correctly) pipe threaded on both ends, with either a coupler or
> a T on the other end. If you use the T, and only connecting the line to
> it, then install a plug in the other opening. I would install the T so
> that you don't have to redo everything to add a low pressure switch in
> the future.
>
> Gary

Some people say these fitting will fracture,
because they are brass. But I did that on my '66 in
1992, it's still in excellent shape.

--
..boB
1997 HD FXDWG - Turbocharged!
2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92
1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver
1966 FFR Cobra - Ongoing project