Fire Damage Wiring Repair

Today I (thought I) completed the repair of my Jeep Wagoneer wiring
fire damage. When I got into the wiring behind the instrument panel, I
discovered that the damage appeared to be isolated to the block on the
headlight switch. There was also some damage to the instrument panel
itself, but I had a replacement instrument panel to replace it with.
There was considerable damage to the area around the heater control
box, and I replaced the heater control unit, which was in the new
panel/cluster.

I also had a complete wiring harness correct for the year. However, I
decided not to replace the entire harness, due to the damage appearing
to be relatively isolated.

So I bought a new switch block and cut the female wire block out of the
new harness, and spliced the wires into the GW wiring, being careful to
label the wires so that they would match up with the wiring block (I
hope). While I did not want to do this next step--circumstances forced
me to--I used crimp butt connectors instead of the 3M 200 series solder
butt connectors I wanted, PLUS, I had to solder the splice for the
large (approx. 12 ga.) red wire on the block.

Once I hooked up the connector to the switch and installed the new
instrument panel, I hooked up the battery and--you guessed it--no
headlights. Also no tail lights, however I did have turn signals and
brake light; no foglights. It's worth noting that, despite the fire and
damage, I had headlights before with the damaged switch, along with
tail lights, etc. Fog lamps were not installed at that point.

After replacing the instument cluster, I have ammeter indication but no
oil pressure or water temperature. I have no heater blower.

Needless to say, I am somewhat at a loss as to where to start
re-diagnosing this. I would greatly appreciate any observations,
comments or advice.

Randall Brink

And the Nightmare Continues...

Now the instrument cluster and radio lights come on when the ignition
sw. is on; headlights will not come on at all.

Missing a ground or a blown fuse link wire or both maybe?

The fuse links are at the end of the battery cable where it hooks to the
power distribution box. They are fat soft wires with large rubber tube
crimps where they join the wiring harness.

My money is on a missing ground for the dash....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)


" wrote:
>
> And the Nightmare Continues...
>
> Now the instrument cluster and radio lights come on when the ignition
> sw. is on; headlights will not come on at all.

Mike:

Do you mean where the positive battery wire attaches to the junction
box? I have been wanting to find these fusible links as the next step
in my diagnostic process, so any information will be very helpful. My
manuals are no help on this.

Randall

You have a Wagoneer right? The big one I am now thinking?

Anyhow, follow the positive wire and at the first bolt connector you
come to there should be some loop connectors for other wiring connected
to this same bolt. It could be on the solenoid if you have one or a
junction box or relay.

These loop connectors have soft rubber coated wires about 8" long on
them and then a large rubber tube type crimp connector where they
connect to the wiring harness component's larger plastic coated wire.

You also can follow the red wire off the alternator and find them where
it's fuse link joins the battery cable. They all join at the same place
I believe.

Most of them are 14 ga. protecting 10 ga. circuits. You can buy bulk
wire and they need to be crimp connected only. Solder will damage them.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

" wrote:
>
> Mike:
>
> Do you mean where the positive battery wire attaches to the junction
> box? I have been wanting to find these fusible links as the next step
> in my diagnostic process, so any information will be very helpful. My
> manuals are no help on this.
>
> Randall

Mike:

Yes, Grand Wagoneer.

I will start in first thing in the morning to locate these "fusible
links" as the manual calls them. I suspect a fault in one, which causes
the instrument lights to illuminate any time the ignition switch is
"on". I am also blowing a fuse every time the dimmer switch is
activated or the lights are on "Low" Beam.

Randall Brink

Are you 100% sure that the fuse being blown is the right rating?

Does turning the light switch handle make the instrument panel go bright and
dim? It should.

If you have power, then it is unlikely that there is a problem in the
fusible link or links. It certainly wouldn't hurt to locate them, perform a
visual inspection and verify continuity.

When you get done with this job, you will have accumulated enough expertise
to hang up a shingle and go into business. :^)

Earle

> wrote in message
oups.com...
> Mike:
>
> Yes, Grand Wagoneer.
>
> I will start in first thing in the morning to locate these "fusible
> links" as the manual calls them. I suspect a fault in one, which causes
> the instrument lights to illuminate any time the ignition switch is
> "on". I am also blowing a fuse every time the dimmer switch is
> activated or the lights are on "Low" Beam.
>
> Randall Brink
>

They won't be the location of the short. When these fuse links mess up,
they just blow.

You really sound like you have a short inside the wiring harness. That
big headlight wire that melted down the light switch has very likely
melted into something else.

Well, not 'likely' pretty much for sure by the sound of your symptoms.

Just so you know, the wiring harness comes apart into modules that all
meet at the fuse panel. If you go on the engine side of the fuse panel,
you will find one bolt in the center of it. This bolt will force the
panel to come apart into it's components so you can maybe get a better
bead on it.

I foresee a lot of cutting of harness covering. You can get the split
corrugated tube loom to put the wires back into once you have opened up
the harness. You can even tuck it into the loom as you cut it open and
inspect it so you don't have a total rats nest.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

" wrote:
>
> Mike:
>
> Yes, Grand Wagoneer.
>
> I will start in first thing in the morning to locate these "fusible
> links" as the manual calls them. I suspect a fault in one, which causes
> the instrument lights to illuminate any time the ignition switch is
> "on". I am also blowing a fuse every time the dimmer switch is
> activated or the lights are on "Low" Beam.
>
> Randall Brink

Before digging into the wiring harness, I suggest double-checking to make
sure that all the wires on the switch are hooked up right. I am thinking
that two wires interchanged by accident could produce similar symptoms.

This job has to be a nightmare. Not too many amateur mechanics would have
gotten this far.

Earle

"Mike Romain" > wrote in message
...
> They won't be the location of the short. When these fuse links mess up,
> they just blow.
>
> You really sound like you have a short inside the wiring harness. That
> big headlight wire that melted down the light switch has very likely
> melted into something else.
>
> Well, not 'likely' pretty much for sure by the sound of your symptoms.
>
> Just so you know, the wiring harness comes apart into modules that all
> meet at the fuse panel. If you go on the engine side of the fuse panel,
> you will find one bolt in the center of it. This bolt will force the
> panel to come apart into it's components so you can maybe get a better
> bead on it.
>
> I foresee a lot of cutting of harness covering. You can get the split
> corrugated tube loom to put the wires back into once you have opened up
> the harness. You can even tuck it into the loom as you cut it open and
> inspect it so you don't have a total rats nest.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> " wrote:
> >
> > Mike:
> >
> > Yes, Grand Wagoneer.
> >
> > I will start in first thing in the morning to locate these "fusible
> > links" as the manual calls them. I suspect a fault in one, which causes
> > the instrument lights to illuminate any time the ignition switch is
> > "on". I am also blowing a fuse every time the dimmer switch is
> > activated or the lights are on "Low" Beam.
> >
> > Randall Brink

Oh, what fuse are you blowing?

The headlights are not fused...

Mike

" wrote:
>
> Mike:
>
> Yes, Grand Wagoneer.
>
> I will start in first thing in the morning to locate these "fusible
> links" as the manual calls them. I suspect a fault in one, which causes
> the instrument lights to illuminate any time the ignition switch is
> "on". I am also blowing a fuse every time the dimmer switch is
> activated or the lights are on "Low" Beam.
>
> Randall Brink