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#1
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I'm having a problem with what I would call 'black alge' on my plants
and driftwood. I have a 55 gallon discus planted tank, 2.4 watts/gallon, pH 6.2, temp 84-85F, GH 75ppm, KH 120ppm, 0 Nitrite and less then 20ppm Nitrate. I feed the plants the usual Flourish supplements every few days. This stuff is slimy and covers the leaves and back of the tank. It's almost black and I clean it off with my fingers. I keep the lights on for no more the 12 hours. Any help IDing it or suggestions on how to get rid of it would be appreciated. Thanks! Jim C. |
#2
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On Sun, 25 Jun 2006 15:20:43 GMT, "Jim Conklin"
wrote: I'm having a problem with what I would call 'black alge' on my plants and driftwood. I have a 55 gallon discus planted tank, 2.4 watts/gallon, pH 6.2, temp 84-85F, GH 75ppm, KH 120ppm, 0 Nitrite and less then 20ppm Nitrate. I feed the plants the usual Flourish supplements every few days. This stuff is slimy and covers the leaves and back of the tank. It's almost black and I clean it off with my fingers. I keep the lights on for no more the 12 hours. Any help IDing it or suggestions on how to get rid of it would be appreciated. Thanks! Jim C. Any chance the tank is getting sunlight? I have mild black algae on 2 ten gallon tanks that get indirect sunlight. Mostly it gets on the sides of the tanks in my case, a little on an anubia. I don't use any chemicals in my tanks. I rely on the fish. I feed the fish and the fish feed the plants. Do all your plants have the black stuff, or is it worse for some? Are your plants rated for the amount of light you provide? I have no plants that are not rated "low light" because my average lighting is less than 1.5w/g. dick |
#3
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![]() "Jim Conklin" wrote in message nk.net... I'm having a problem with what I would call 'black alge' on my plants and driftwood. I have a 55 gallon discus planted tank, 2.4 watts/gallon, pH 6.2, temp 84-85F, GH 75ppm, KH 120ppm, 0 Nitrite and less then 20ppm Nitrate. I feed the plants the usual Flourish supplements every few days. This stuff is slimy and covers the leaves and back of the tank. It's almost black and I clean it off with my fingers. I keep the lights on for no more the 12 hours. Any help IDing it or suggestions on how to get rid of it would be appreciated. Thanks! In addition to what Dick said. Common treatments for BBA (Black Brush Algae) are blackout, trimming infected leaves, scrubbing followed by a water change, increased water flow and critters. I don't remember the suggested blackout (absolutely no light) period, but I believe it's about a week. Some people have claimed this did not work for them. Removal is one of the better options, remove infected leaves, wipe sides with a paper towel, vacuum gravel and do a large water change after scrubbing. You should be doing large water changes weekly in any event. Really seems to help keep the Algae in check. Dipping infected plants in Hydrogen Peroxide or 20:1 mix of water and bleach. I found Hydrogen Peroxide useless and went for the bleach mixture. I also added BBA eating critters SAES seem to be the best. But I'm not sure they would like your low PH. What's your water flow like? Do you know where your Phosphate/Iron levels are? It's possible one of these is too low and limiting your plant growth, which allows the Algae to thrive. |
#4
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![]() "Dick" wrote in message ... On Sun, 25 Jun 2006 15:20:43 GMT, "Jim Conklin" wrote: I'm having a problem with what I would call 'black alge' on my plants and driftwood. I have a 55 gallon discus planted tank, 2.4 watts/gallon, pH 6.2, temp 84-85F, GH 75ppm, KH 120ppm, 0 Nitrite and less then 20ppm Nitrate. I feed the plants the usual Flourish supplements every few days. This stuff is slimy and covers the leaves and back of the tank. It's almost black and I clean it off with my fingers. I keep the lights on for no more the 12 hours. Any help IDing it or suggestions on how to get rid of it would be appreciated. Thanks! Jim C. Any chance the tank is getting sunlight? I have mild black algae on 2 ten gallon tanks that get indirect sunlight. Mostly it gets on the sides of the tanks in my case, a little on an anubia. I don't use any chemicals in my tanks. I rely on the fish. I feed the fish and the fish feed the plants. Do all your plants have the black stuff, or is it worse for some? Are your plants rated for the amount of light you provide? I have no plants that are not rated "low light" because my average lighting is less than 1.5w/g. dick No, no sunlight at all. However I just stumbled on this site and it ID's it as a kind of bacteria. ( Slime algae) http://www.plantgeek.net/article_viewer.php?id=9 I'll give a try to the chemical they mention. |
#5
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![]() "Bill Stock" wrote in message ... "Jim Conklin" wrote in message nk.net... I'm having a problem with what I would call 'black alge' on my plants and driftwood. I have a 55 gallon discus planted tank, 2.4 watts/gallon, pH 6.2, temp 84-85F, GH 75ppm, KH 120ppm, 0 Nitrite and less then 20ppm Nitrate. I feed the plants the usual Flourish supplements every few days. This stuff is slimy and covers the leaves and back of the tank. It's almost black and I clean it off with my fingers. I keep the lights on for no more the 12 hours. Any help IDing it or suggestions on how to get rid of it would be appreciated. Thanks! In addition to what Dick said. Common treatments for BBA (Black Brush Algae) are blackout, trimming infected leaves, scrubbing followed by a water change, increased water flow and critters. I don't remember the suggested blackout (absolutely no light) period, but I believe it's about a week. Some people have claimed this did not work for them. Removal is one of the better options, remove infected leaves, wipe sides with a paper towel, vacuum gravel and do a large water change after scrubbing. You should be doing large water changes weekly in any event. Really seems to help keep the Algae in check. Dipping infected plants in Hydrogen Peroxide or 20:1 mix of water and bleach. I found Hydrogen Peroxide useless and went for the bleach mixture. I also added BBA eating critters SAES seem to be the best. But I'm not sure they would like your low PH. What's your water flow like? Do you know where your Phosphate/Iron levels are? It's possible one of these is too low and limiting your plant growth, which allows the Algae to thrive. I have pretty good water flow: a Filstar canister filter working together with a Marineland 350. Phosphate is very high and always has been so. This stuff started appearing about a month ago. I've been adding a capful of Iron supplement weekly with 50% water changes, perhaps I should add more? I thought I was keeping the tank clean as I have crystal clear water but perhaps I'm not. I'll try a massive cleaning: 75% water change together w/ gravel vacuum and trimming off the infected leaves and wiping down the sides. Does SAES stand for Siamese Algae Eaters? Thanks for the help. JC |
#6
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![]() "Jim Conklin" wrote in message ink.net... "Bill Stock" wrote in message ... "Jim Conklin" wrote in message nk.net... I'm having a problem with what I would call 'black alge' on my plants and driftwood. I have a 55 gallon discus planted tank, 2.4 watts/gallon, pH 6.2, temp 84-85F, GH 75ppm, KH 120ppm, 0 Nitrite and less then 20ppm Nitrate. I feed the plants the usual Flourish supplements every few days. This stuff is slimy and covers the leaves and back of the tank. It's almost black and I clean it off with my fingers. I keep the lights on for no more the 12 hours. Any help IDing it or suggestions on how to get rid of it would be appreciated. Thanks! In addition to what Dick said. Common treatments for BBA (Black Brush Algae) are blackout, trimming infected leaves, scrubbing followed by a water change, increased water flow and critters. I don't remember the suggested blackout (absolutely no light) period, but I believe it's about a week. Some people have claimed this did not work for them. Removal is one of the better options, remove infected leaves, wipe sides with a paper towel, vacuum gravel and do a large water change after scrubbing. You should be doing large water changes weekly in any event. Really seems to help keep the Algae in check. Dipping infected plants in Hydrogen Peroxide or 20:1 mix of water and bleach. I found Hydrogen Peroxide useless and went for the bleach mixture. I also added BBA eating critters SAES seem to be the best. But I'm not sure they would like your low PH. What's your water flow like? Do you know where your Phosphate/Iron levels are? It's possible one of these is too low and limiting your plant growth, which allows the Algae to thrive. I have pretty good water flow: a Filstar canister filter working together with a Marineland 350. Phosphate is very high and always has been so. This stuff started appearing about a month ago. I've been adding a capful of Iron supplement weekly with 50% water changes, perhaps I should add more? I thought I was keeping the tank clean as I have crystal clear water but perhaps I'm not. I'll try a massive cleaning: 75% water change together w/ gravel vacuum and trimming off the infected leaves and wiping down the sides. Does SAES stand for Siamese Algae Eaters? Thanks for the help. JC Pretty much everything I told you about the BBA applies to BGA (Blue Green Algae), especially the water changes, water flow and gravel vaccing. I'd be careful about changing more than 50% water, as it may have negative affects on your fish. I'm not familiar with Discuss. If you go the Antibiotic root, it may only be a temporary fix, as you haven't cured the cause and the BGA will likely come back. Cleanup is probably your best bet. I had BGA before I got BBA and it went away with water changes, better fertilization, CO2 (I have more light) and better water flow. One more thing to try is Flourish Excel (CO2 in a bottle) at a slightly higher dose than recommended. Some people swear by this stuff. I use PMDD for my Iron, so I really can't equate your measures. Since you're doing the weekly water changes anyway, you may want to consider then EI (Estimative Index) for fertilizing. Although it's geared more towards high light tanks. The big thing is to make your plants grow well, so they out compete the Algae for nutrients. What's causing your high Phosphates BTW, is it in the water or the food you are feeding? Yes, SAE = Siamese Algae Eater. |
#7
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![]() "Bill Stock" wrote in message ... "Jim Conklin" wrote in message ink.net... "Bill Stock" wrote in message ... "Jim Conklin" wrote in message nk.net... I'm having a problem with what I would call 'black alge' on my plants and driftwood. I have a 55 gallon discus planted tank, 2.4 watts/gallon, pH 6.2, temp 84-85F, GH 75ppm, KH 120ppm, 0 Nitrite and less then 20ppm Nitrate. I feed the plants the usual Flourish supplements every few days. This stuff is slimy and covers the leaves and back of the tank. It's almost black and I clean it off with my fingers. I keep the lights on for no more the 12 hours. Any help IDing it or suggestions on how to get rid of it would be appreciated. Thanks! In addition to what Dick said. Common treatments for BBA (Black Brush Algae) are blackout, trimming infected leaves, scrubbing followed by a water change, increased water flow and critters. I don't remember the suggested blackout (absolutely no light) period, but I believe it's about a week. Some people have claimed this did not work for them. Removal is one of the better options, remove infected leaves, wipe sides with a paper towel, vacuum gravel and do a large water change after scrubbing. You should be doing large water changes weekly in any event. Really seems to help keep the Algae in check. Dipping infected plants in Hydrogen Peroxide or 20:1 mix of water and bleach. I found Hydrogen Peroxide useless and went for the bleach mixture. I also added BBA eating critters SAES seem to be the best. But I'm not sure they would like your low PH. What's your water flow like? Do you know where your Phosphate/Iron levels are? It's possible one of these is too low and limiting your plant growth, which allows the Algae to thrive. I have pretty good water flow: a Filstar canister filter working together with a Marineland 350. Phosphate is very high and always has been so. This stuff started appearing about a month ago. I've been adding a capful of Iron supplement weekly with 50% water changes, perhaps I should add more? I thought I was keeping the tank clean as I have crystal clear water but perhaps I'm not. I'll try a massive cleaning: 75% water change together w/ gravel vacuum and trimming off the infected leaves and wiping down the sides. Does SAES stand for Siamese Algae Eaters? Thanks for the help. JC Pretty much everything I told you about the BBA applies to BGA (Blue Green Algae), especially the water changes, water flow and gravel vaccing. I'd be careful about changing more than 50% water, as it may have negative affects on your fish. I'm not familiar with Discuss. If you go the Antibiotic root, it may only be a temporary fix, as you haven't cured the cause and the BGA will likely come back. Cleanup is probably your best bet. I had BGA before I got BBA and it went away with water changes, better fertilization, CO2 (I have more light) and better water flow. One more thing to try is Flourish Excel (CO2 in a bottle) at a slightly higher dose than recommended. Some people swear by this stuff. I use PMDD for my Iron, so I really can't equate your measures. Since you're doing the weekly water changes anyway, you may want to consider then EI (Estimative Index) for fertilizing. Although it's geared more towards high light tanks. The big thing is to make your plants grow well, so they out compete the Algae for nutrients. What's causing your high Phosphates BTW, is it in the water or the food you are feeding? Yes, SAE = Siamese Algae Eater. The phosphate is from the well water I get. I've tried every product out there to get rid of it. Nothing works so I've learned to live with it. I'll try the 'big cleaning' route and crank up the CO2 and light and see where we go from there. Thanks for the help. Jim |
#8
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Hi..
This stuff is slimy and covers the leaves and back of the tank. It's Sounds like "cyanobacteria"..? These nutrient-hungry folks are used to exist in so called "nutrient-poor" water. How do you feed your tank? How many fishes do you keep and how do you feed your plants..? Finally: when did you start this tank..? -- cu Marco |
#9
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I don't use any chemicals in my tanks. I rely on the fish. I feed
the fish and the fish feed the plants. The problem is they don't. Fertilize properly and use Co2 OR Flourish Excel and it'll go away by itself. I had this crap for 7 years till Tom Barr convinced me if I put fertilizer in the tank the algae will go away. He uses CO2 I use Excel. Both work. -- Need Mercedes parts? http://parts.mbz.org Richard Sexton | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org 1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home pages: http://rs79.vrx.net 633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | http://aquaria.net http://killi.net |
#10
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In article et,
Jim Conklin wrote: No, no sunlight at all. However I just stumbled on this site and it ID's it as a kind of bacteria. ( Slime algae) http://www.plantgeek.net/article_viewer.php?id=9 I'll give a try to the chemical they mention. BAD IDEA. First, you'd be removing the symprom but not the cause, it'll simply come back. Second, indiscriminate use of aquarium antibiotics is extremely harmful and they will soon no longer be sold as easily as now, mercifully. That article should be removed from the Interent. It's one of the single most bad and dangerous pieces of advice ever published. If you have blue green slime algae then nitrate alone will kill it. -- Need Mercedes parts? http://parts.mbz.org Richard Sexton | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org 1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home pages: http://rs79.vrx.net 633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | http://aquaria.net http://killi.net |
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