Ford F150 Tempeartuer Gauge won't work

On Jun 18, 7:03 pm, "GWK" > wrote:
> "GWK" > wrote in message
>
> ...
>
>
>
>
>
> > "Comboverfish" > wrote in message
> oups.com...
> > > On Jun 14, 9:30 am, "GWK" > wrote:
> > > > 1995 Ford F150 6 cylinder 4.9L
>
> > > > My temperature gauge on the dash has been stuck on COLD for about a
> > year.
> > > > The heater produces hot air no problem. I changed the thermostat
> > anyway,
> > > > but it didn't make any difference. So when my mechanic was doing some
> > other
> > > > work on the engine, I asked him to change the temperature sending unit
> > and
> > > > check the wires for damage while he had the truck on the lift.. He
> > changed
> > > > the temp sending unit and he said the wires looked OK visibly. However
> > the
> > > > needle still is stuck on COLD no matter how long I drive it. The
> engine
> > runs
> > > > fine, and there is no evidence of overheating. I would just like to
> get
> > the
> > > > temp gauge to work, so I can monitor things better on this old truck.
>
> > > > I am wondering if there is any electrical connection in the steering
> > column
> > > > (clockspring or ignition switch) that could be broken, and cause the
> > temp
> > > > gauge needle to malfunction. The reason that I say this, is because
> > there
> > > > seems to be a lot of "up and down" play in the steering wheel.
>
> > > > Any insight into what would be a likely cause?
>
> > > > Thanks,
>
> > > > Gary
>
> > > The easiest test would be to locate the temp sender wire and ground it
> > > with the key on. Now look at the temp gauge -- if the wire and gauge
> > > are OK, the gauge will be pegged on "hot". If it still doesn't move
> > > off of "cold", then troubleshoot the wire from the sender to the
> > > instrument cluster harness. If that is OK, test the back side of the
> > > temp gauge -- be sure that one of its terminals has B+ with all
> > > connectors attached and key on.
>
> > > The only things that excess steering column play could affect in this
> > > circuit would be pinching a wire in the column harness or rubbing a
> > > wire bare near the shift lever assembly or exposed section of steering
> > > shaft areas -- which would have to blow a fuse that is common to the
> > > temp gauge power supply. Usually other nearby gauges would suffer if
> > > this happened. The actual temp wire is nowhere near the pivot point
> > > of the steering column.
>
> > > As an aside, If the pivot pins or housing is cracked in your tilt
> > > steering column mechanism, you should get that fixed post haste. It's
> > > an unsettling feeling to be driving down the road and have your
> > > steering wheel come apart. BTDT once during a test drive on a ratted
> > > out sedan. Not fun...
>
> > > Toyota MDT in MO
>
> > I haven't been able to locate the temp sender wire or temp sender,
> although
> > my mechanic
> > did replace the temp sender. I was able to pull the instrument panel and
> > find some temp gauge
> > contacts directly behind where the temperature gauge is. They are labelled
> > IGN, SIG, and GND.
> > With the key turned to RUN, I get these voltage readings:
>
> > IGN to GND - 11.4 Volts
> > SIG to GND - 5.0 Volts
>
> > Gary
>
> When I run a jumper from SIG to GND, the temp gauge needle jumps from
> COLD to HOT. So, I guess the temp gauge isn't broken. Maybe the wire from
> the temp sending unit to the temp gauge is bad.
>
What is your definition of "SIG"? Is that what the cluster's printed
circuit sheet has etched into it near one of the temp gauge
terminals? --Or -- is it the harness connector right at the temp
sender? If "SIG" is on the circuit sheet, then the gauge seems to
react properly. You would need to test the wire after that result.
If "SIG" means the latter, then the wire appears to work as well as
the gauge does. Of course, this full grounding test just roughly
passes both the gauge and wire; it is not a 100% guarantee that the
wire and gauge are in total working order. It doesn't, for example,
tell you that the gauge is capable of reporting various resistance
loads correctly, nor does it tell you if the wiring is hanging on by
just one strand.

Toyota MDT in MO

"Comboverfish" > wrote in message
ups.com...
> On Jun 18, 7:03 pm, "GWK" > wrote:
> > "GWK" > wrote in message
> >
> > ...
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > "Comboverfish" > wrote in message
> > oups.com...
> > > > On Jun 14, 9:30 am, "GWK" > wrote:
> > > > > 1995 Ford F150 6 cylinder 4.9L
> >
> > > > > My temperature gauge on the dash has been stuck on COLD for about
a
> > > year.
> > > > > The heater produces hot air no problem. I changed the thermostat
> > > anyway,
> > > > > but it didn't make any difference. So when my mechanic was doing
some
> > > other
> > > > > work on the engine, I asked him to change the temperature sending
unit
> > > and
> > > > > check the wires for damage while he had the truck on the lift.. He
> > > changed
> > > > > the temp sending unit and he said the wires looked OK visibly.
However
> > > the
> > > > > needle still is stuck on COLD no matter how long I drive it. The
> > engine
> > > runs
> > > > > fine, and there is no evidence of overheating. I would just like
to
> > get
> > > the
> > > > > temp gauge to work, so I can monitor things better on this old
truck.
> >
> > > > > I am wondering if there is any electrical connection in the
steering
> > > column
> > > > > (clockspring or ignition switch) that could be broken, and cause
the
> > > temp
> > > > > gauge needle to malfunction. The reason that I say this, is
because
> > > there
> > > > > seems to be a lot of "up and down" play in the steering wheel.
> >
> > > > > Any insight into what would be a likely cause?
> >
> > > > > Thanks,
> >
> > > > > Gary
> >
> > > > The easiest test would be to locate the temp sender wire and ground
it
> > > > with the key on. Now look at the temp gauge -- if the wire and
gauge
> > > > are OK, the gauge will be pegged on "hot". If it still doesn't move
> > > > off of "cold", then troubleshoot the wire from the sender to the
> > > > instrument cluster harness. If that is OK, test the back side of
the
> > > > temp gauge -- be sure that one of its terminals has B+ with all
> > > > connectors attached and key on.
> >
> > > > The only things that excess steering column play could affect in
this
> > > > circuit would be pinching a wire in the column harness or rubbing a
> > > > wire bare near the shift lever assembly or exposed section of
steering
> > > > shaft areas -- which would have to blow a fuse that is common to the
> > > > temp gauge power supply. Usually other nearby gauges would suffer
if
> > > > this happened. The actual temp wire is nowhere near the pivot point
> > > > of the steering column.
> >
> > > > As an aside, If the pivot pins or housing is cracked in your tilt
> > > > steering column mechanism, you should get that fixed post haste.
It's
> > > > an unsettling feeling to be driving down the road and have your
> > > > steering wheel come apart. BTDT once during a test drive on a
ratted
> > > > out sedan. Not fun...
> >
> > > > Toyota MDT in MO
> >
> > > I haven't been able to locate the temp sender wire or temp sender,
> > although
> > > my mechanic
> > > did replace the temp sender. I was able to pull the instrument panel
and
> > > find some temp gauge
> > > contacts directly behind where the temperature gauge is. They are
labelled
> > > IGN, SIG, and GND.
> > > With the key turned to RUN, I get these voltage readings:
> >
> > > IGN to GND - 11.4 Volts
> > > SIG to GND - 5.0 Volts
> >
> > > Gary
> >
> > When I run a jumper from SIG to GND, the temp gauge needle jumps from
> > COLD to HOT. So, I guess the temp gauge isn't broken. Maybe the wire
from
> > the temp sending unit to the temp gauge is bad.
> >
> What is your definition of "SIG"? Is that what the cluster's printed
> circuit sheet has etched into it near one of the temp gauge
> terminals? --Or -- is it the harness connector right at the temp
> sender? If "SIG" is on the circuit sheet, then the gauge seems to
> react properly. You would need to test the wire after that result.
> If "SIG" means the latter, then the wire appears to work as well as
> the gauge does. Of course, this full grounding test just roughly
> passes both the gauge and wire; it is not a 100% guarantee that the
> wire and gauge are in total working order. It doesn't, for example,
> tell you that the gauge is capable of reporting various resistance
> loads correctly, nor does it tell you if the wiring is hanging on by
> just one strand.
>
> Toyota MDT in MO
>


"SIG" is what is etched into the circuit sheet next to one of the
temp gauge terminals. There are no visible wires on any of the 3
terminals, so I assume the circuit sheet connects to them internally.
Temp Gauge stays pegged on COLD under all running conditions,
regardless of coolant temp. I try to find temp sender wire and check
that first.

Thanks,

Gary

On Jun 15, 10:47 pm, Nate Nagel > wrote:
> Steve W. wrote:
> > Nate Nagel wrote:
>
> >> Steve W. wrote:
>
> >>> GWK wrote:
>
> >>>> 1995 FordF1506 cylinder 4.9L
>
> >>>> My temperaturegaugeon the dash has been stuck on COLD for about a
> >>>> year.
> >>>> The heater produces hot air no problem. I changed the thermostat
> >>>> anyway,
> >>>> but it didn't make any difference. So when my mechanic was doing
> >>>> some other
> >>>> work on the engine, I asked him to change the temperature sending
> >>>> unit and
> >>>> check the wires for damage while he had the truck on the lift.. He
> >>>> changed
> >>>> the temp sending unit and he said the wires looked OK visibly.
> >>>> However the
> >>>> needle still is stuck on COLD no matter how long I drive it. The
> >>>> engine runs
> >>>> fine, and there is no evidence of overheating. I would just like to
> >>>> get the
> >>>> tempgaugeto work, so I can monitor things better on this old truck.
>
> >>>> I am wondering if there is any electrical connection in the steering
> >>>> column
> >>>> (clockspring or ignition switch) that could be broken, and cause the
> >>>> temp
> >>>>gaugeneedle to malfunction. The reason that I say this, is because
> >>>> there
> >>>> seems to be a lot of "up and down" play in the steering wheel.
>
> >>>> Any insight into what would be a likely cause?
>
> >>>> Thanks,
>
> >>>> Gary
>
> >>> More likely is that thegaugeburnt out. Personally I would replace
> >>> the temp and theoilpressuregauges with aftermarket anyway. The
> >>> Tempgaugeis actually agaugeBUT theoilpressuregaugeisn't. It
> >>> is a glorified idiot light. Ford put a resistor across thegaugeso
> >>> it reads a constantpressure. It is possible to convert it to a true
> >>>gaugethough, you replace the sender with agaugesender and remove
> >>> the resister.
>
> >> is this also true of a '93? Do you have more info. on how to do this?
> >> (i.e. use a Stewart Warner sender, or one from an earlier year Ford,
> >> or other...?)
>
> >> thanks,
>
> >> nate
>
> > From what I have seen and read it covers years 1987 through at least
> > 2000 and involves most of the domestic Ford vehicles both cars and
> > trucks up to the F-350 and includes diesels. The "sending unit" is a
> > switch that just makes the "gauge" pop up to a reading somewhere in the
> > normal area on the dial as soon as theoilpump generates at least 3-5
> > pound ofpressure. 97 and up started using a chip with the resistor in
> > it to operate thegauge. The only way around that one is to replace the
> >gaugewith a true mechanical.
>
> > For a new sender these are parts that will work with the current wiring.
> > Auto Tune: PT3077B
> > Standard Motor Products: PS-60
> > Echlin: OP6091
> > Motorcraft: SW-1547-B, or E4ZZ-9278-A
>
> > You still need to find the 20 ohm resistor which can be in the sender,
> > inline from the sender OR behind thegaugecluster or in the case of
> > vehicles from late 96 through 2000 it is IN the chip on the cluster. The
> > only way out on those later vehicles is to replace thegaugeitself.
>
> > More info http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/march98/techtips.htm
>
> > And from thef150forum
>
> > Theoilgaugeon the Explorer isn't. Simply put, the indicator on the
> > dash looks like agauge, but it is really only a binary indication as to
> > whether thepressuresensor believes that the engine has sufficientoil
> >pressureor not. If it thinks there is sufficientpressure, then the
> >gaugereads in the "Normal" zone, usually pointing to a single place
> > (without varying based on temperature, RPMs, etc.). If there is not
> > sufficientpressure, then thegaugereads "low." The first item below
> > describes how to convert the "indicator" back into agauge. Discussion
> > on this topic follows:
>
> > I went ahead and installed the transducer today. It was a universal 1/4
> > pipe threaded sender with the "slip over threaded rod" style of
> > electrical connection to the top. Plenty of room for the tee, original
> > switch, and the new transducer. I removed the switch from the 45 degree
> > long- shafted adapter. Used the end of the tee (not the center port) to
> > the adapter, mounted the transducer upward and the switch outward
> > (center port of tee). Was able to plug the original connector into the
> > new transducer.
>
> > Thegaugeread just left of the N in Normal prior to disabling the 20
> > ohm resistor on the dash cluster. After shorting out the resistor, the
> >gaugeneedle points to the A in Normal at 2000 rpm and around the O in
> > Normal at a warm idle in gear. The needle is heavily dampened (so to
> > react to changes) but is still a worthwhile modification.
>
> > I would say that the dash cluster removal is rather involved and not for
> > the faint of heart. In fact, living without the resistor modification is
> > really acceptable when you consider thegaugeis dampened. If my wife
> > would allow it, in retrospect, I'd have just done the tee and added the
> > chime to the factorygaugebut installed a real 270 degree mechanical
> >gauge. And not touch the dash.
>
> > And now! What the manual says about theOILPRESSUREGAUGE!
>
> > "When the engineoilpressureis normal, theoilpressureswitch is
> > closed (short circuit), allowing current flow through the 20-ohm
> > resistor on the cluster flexible circuit into thegaugewhich drives the
> > pointer to a position slightly above midscale. The switch opens (open
> > circuit) whenoilpressuredrops to a critically low level (4.5 - 7.5
> > psi) causing movement of the pointer to or below the "L" band."
>
> > "NOTE: The pointer of the magneticgaugewill remain in it's last
> > position when the ignition is turned off. It will move to the correct
> > (or actual) indication whenever the ignition is turned back on."
>
> Cool, thanks. I'll probably be acquiring one as soon as I have time to
> take a day off and go to the DMV, and this is one of the first mods I'd
> want to do (I like gauges)
>
> nate
>
> --
> replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.http://members.cox.net/njnagel- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Just wanted to say thank you again; I bought the truck last night and
am going to try to do this mod at the first opportunity.

nate

"GWK" > wrote in message
...
>
> "Comboverfish" > wrote in message
> ups.com...
> > On Jun 18, 7:03 pm, "GWK" > wrote:
> > > "GWK" > wrote in message
> > >
> > > ...
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > > "Comboverfish" > wrote in message
> > > oups.com...
> > > > > On Jun 14, 9:30 am, "GWK" > wrote:
> > > > > > 1995 Ford F150 6 cylinder 4.9L
> > >
> > > > > > My temperature gauge on the dash has been stuck on COLD for
about
> a
> > > > year.
> > > > > > The heater produces hot air no problem. I changed the
thermostat
> > > > anyway,
> > > > > > but it didn't make any difference. So when my mechanic was doing
> some
> > > > other
> > > > > > work on the engine, I asked him to change the temperature
sending
> unit
> > > > and
> > > > > > check the wires for damage while he had the truck on the lift..
He
> > > > changed
> > > > > > the temp sending unit and he said the wires looked OK visibly.
> However
> > > > the
> > > > > > needle still is stuck on COLD no matter how long I drive it. The
> > > engine
> > > > runs
> > > > > > fine, and there is no evidence of overheating. I would just like
> to
> > > get
> > > > the
> > > > > > temp gauge to work, so I can monitor things better on this old
> truck.
> > >
> > > > > > I am wondering if there is any electrical connection in the
> steering
> > > > column
> > > > > > (clockspring or ignition switch) that could be broken, and cause
> the
> > > > temp
> > > > > > gauge needle to malfunction. The reason that I say this, is
> because
> > > > there
> > > > > > seems to be a lot of "up and down" play in the steering wheel.
> > >
> > > > > > Any insight into what would be a likely cause?
> > >
> > > > > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > > > > Gary
> > >
> > > > > The easiest test would be to locate the temp sender wire and
ground
> it
> > > > > with the key on. Now look at the temp gauge -- if the wire and
> gauge
> > > > > are OK, the gauge will be pegged on "hot". If it still doesn't
move
> > > > > off of "cold", then troubleshoot the wire from the sender to the
> > > > > instrument cluster harness. If that is OK, test the back side of
> the
> > > > > temp gauge -- be sure that one of its terminals has B+ with all
> > > > > connectors attached and key on.
> > >
> > > > > The only things that excess steering column play could affect in
> this
> > > > > circuit would be pinching a wire in the column harness or rubbing
a
> > > > > wire bare near the shift lever assembly or exposed section of
> steering
> > > > > shaft areas -- which would have to blow a fuse that is common to
the
> > > > > temp gauge power supply. Usually other nearby gauges would suffer
> if
> > > > > this happened. The actual temp wire is nowhere near the pivot
point
> > > > > of the steering column.
> > >
> > > > > As an aside, If the pivot pins or housing is cracked in your tilt
> > > > > steering column mechanism, you should get that fixed post haste.
> It's
> > > > > an unsettling feeling to be driving down the road and have your
> > > > > steering wheel come apart. BTDT once during a test drive on a
> ratted
> > > > > out sedan. Not fun...
> > >
> > > > > Toyota MDT in MO
> > >
> > > > I haven't been able to locate the temp sender wire or temp sender,
> > > although
> > > > my mechanic
> > > > did replace the temp sender. I was able to pull the instrument panel
> and
> > > > find some temp gauge
> > > > contacts directly behind where the temperature gauge is. They are
> labelled
> > > > IGN, SIG, and GND.
> > > > With the key turned to RUN, I get these voltage readings:
> > >
> > > > IGN to GND - 11.4 Volts
> > > > SIG to GND - 5.0 Volts
> > >
> > > > Gary
> > >
> > > When I run a jumper from SIG to GND, the temp gauge needle jumps from
> > > COLD to HOT. So, I guess the temp gauge isn't broken. Maybe the wire
> from
> > > the temp sending unit to the temp gauge is bad.
> > >
> > What is your definition of "SIG"? Is that what the cluster's printed
> > circuit sheet has etched into it near one of the temp gauge
> > terminals? --Or -- is it the harness connector right at the temp
> > sender? If "SIG" is on the circuit sheet, then the gauge seems to
> > react properly. You would need to test the wire after that result.
> > If "SIG" means the latter, then the wire appears to work as well as
> > the gauge does. Of course, this full grounding test just roughly
> > passes both the gauge and wire; it is not a 100% guarantee that the
> > wire and gauge are in total working order. It doesn't, for example,
> > tell you that the gauge is capable of reporting various resistance
> > loads correctly, nor does it tell you if the wiring is hanging on by
> > just one strand.
> >
> > Toyota MDT in MO
> >
>
>
> "SIG" is what is etched into the circuit sheet next to one of the
> temp gauge terminals. There are no visible wires on any of the 3
> terminals, so I assume the circuit sheet connects to them internally.
> Temp Gauge stays pegged on COLD under all running conditions,
> regardless of coolant temp. I try to find temp sender wire and check
> that first.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gary
>

My mechanic checked it out. The wire from the temp sender unit had
deteriorated. He replaced it, and now the gauge works.
Thanks,

Gary

I have the same problem with my 2000 ford f150 5.4 L v8