Set timing on an Intrepid

First, I've searched this and come up with nothing. Kinda leads me to
believe the timing is computer controlled. The Haynes manual is
useless too.

95 Intrepid 3.3L (not flex fuel), 215k miles, well maintained and in
good condition.


How can I adjust the timing on this car?


The reason I ask is I seem to have picked up a little detonation in
the last 7-10k miles. It'll knock when I load the engine on a steep
hil in 3rd/4th gear. There's no problem in 1st/2nd even if I stab the
gas from a stop.

The wires, Champion plugs (with the corrct gap), distributor cap and
rotor have all been replaced with new Mopar units in the last 10-15k
miles. Oil is changed with Valvoline 10w30 every 3-4k miles. The car
is well maintained.

Should I try a colder plug? Cooler thermostat? The outside temp
doesn't seem to matter. I've tried higher octane gas, even though it's
expensive it doesn't seem to matter much. Can I retard the timing a
bit?

Suggestions?

Spiral_72 wrote:
> First, I've searched this and come up with nothing. Kinda leads me to
> believe the timing is computer controlled. The Haynes manual is
> useless too.
>
> 95 Intrepid 3.3L (not flex fuel), 215k miles, well maintained and in
> good condition.
>
>
> How can I adjust the timing on this car?
>
>
> The reason I ask is I seem to have picked up a little detonation in
> the last 7-10k miles. It'll knock when I load the engine on a steep
> hil in 3rd/4th gear. There's no problem in 1st/2nd even if I stab the
> gas from a stop.
>
> The wires, Champion plugs (with the corrct gap), distributor cap and
> rotor have all been replaced with new Mopar units in the last 10-15k
> miles. Oil is changed with Valvoline 10w30 every 3-4k miles. The car
> is well maintained.
>
> Should I try a colder plug? Cooler thermostat? The outside temp
> doesn't seem to matter. I've tried higher octane gas, even though it's
> expensive it doesn't seem to matter much. Can I retard the timing a
> bit?
>
> Suggestions?

Hi...

Not a mechanic, just an old retired electrical guy - but
have you checked the knock sensor(s) ?

I *think* that a valid test is to let it idle, and while
listening to the engine give the block a couple of light
taps near to the knock sensor. If it's good, you should
hear the effect as the timing retards and then comes back.

Take care.

Ken

In article
. com>,
Spiral_72 > wrote:

> First, I've searched this and come up with nothing. Kinda leads me to
> believe the timing is computer controlled. The Haynes manual is
> useless too.
>
> 95 Intrepid 3.3L (not flex fuel), 215k miles, well maintained and in
> good condition.
>
>
> How can I adjust the timing on this car?

You can't.

> The reason I ask is I seem to have picked up a little detonation in
> the last 7-10k miles. It'll knock when I load the engine on a steep
> hil in 3rd/4th gear. There's no problem in 1st/2nd even if I stab the
> gas from a stop.
>
> The wires, Champion plugs (with the corrct gap), distributor cap and
> rotor have all been replaced with new Mopar units in the last 10-15k
> miles. Oil is changed with Valvoline 10w30 every 3-4k miles. The car
> is well maintained.

The 3.3 has never used a distributor cap or rotor.

> Should I try a colder plug? Cooler thermostat? The outside temp
> doesn't seem to matter. I've tried higher octane gas, even though it's
> expensive it doesn't seem to matter much. Can I retard the timing a
> bit?
>
> Suggestions?

Functional test of the EGR valve if it has one.

In article . com>,
Spiral_72 > wrote:

> First, I've searched this and come up with nothing. Kinda leads me to
> believe the timing is computer controlled. The Haynes manual is
> useless too.
>
> 95 Intrepid 3.3L (not flex fuel), 215k miles, well maintained and in
> good condition.
>
>
> How can I adjust the timing on this car?
>
>
> The reason I ask is I seem to have picked up a little detonation in
> the last 7-10k miles. It'll knock when I load the engine on a steep
> hil in 3rd/4th gear. There's no problem in 1st/2nd even if I stab the
> gas from a stop.
>
> The wires, Champion plugs (with the corrct gap), distributor cap and
> rotor have all been replaced with new Mopar units in the last 10-15k
> miles. Oil is changed with Valvoline 10w30 every 3-4k miles. The car
> is well maintained.
>
> Should I try a colder plug? Cooler thermostat? The outside temp
> doesn't seem to matter. I've tried higher octane gas, even though it's
> expensive it doesn't seem to matter much. Can I retard the timing a
> bit?
>
> Suggestions?
I suspect it has significant carbon deposits in the cylinders.
My '95 Concord 3.3L doesn't ping and I drive in very hilly country.
I've used Chevron regular in it 99% of the time.

> knock sensor
That's not a bad idea actually. I might have to reset the computer
after I change it (if it IS bad). It makes sense if I can't adjust the
timing.

> How can I adjust the timing on this car?
> You can't.
Crap. That's what I figured. I'll bet the distributor is injector
timing, like on my 99 Ram.

> The 3.3 has never used a distributor cap or rotor.
Except mine, cause I've replaced it.

> Functional test of the EGR valve if it has one.
I'll check that out. I've had EGR valves go bad on other cars and it
run like crap. Doesn't mean that's not it though.

> I suspect it has significant carbon deposits in the cylinders.
I thought that too. I mentioned it in another post on the Dodge forums
(which seems to be dead by the way).
I guess there's not much I can do with that at this point, except a
rebuild.
Carbon deposits on the piston would seem to increase the C.R........
maybe not, but it's a thought.

Thanks for the info all. I'll check it all. I also thought the cat may
be restricted, but it seems to hove plenty of power at high rpm = so
it's moving air.

In article
. com>,
Spiral_72 > wrote:

> > knock sensor
> That's not a bad idea actually. I might have to reset the computer
> after I change it (if it IS bad). It makes sense if I can't adjust the
> timing.
>
> > How can I adjust the timing on this car?
> > You can't.
> Crap. That's what I figured. I'll bet the distributor is injector
> timing, like on my 99 Ram.
>
> > The 3.3 has never used a distributor cap or rotor.
> Except mine, cause I've replaced it.

Trust me, you didn't. Closest thing that might be confused as a
distributor would be the coil pack which is were the plug wires
are connected to.

> > Functional test of the EGR valve if it has one.
> I'll check that out. I've had EGR valves go bad on other cars and it
> run like crap. Doesn't mean that's not it though.

there are multiple ways an EGR can fail, stuck open or opening
too much will symptom as runs like crap, not opening at all, not
opening as far as it should or blocked passages will often result
in knock.

> > I suspect it has significant carbon deposits in the cylinders.
> I thought that too. I mentioned it in another post on the Dodge forums
> (which seems to be dead by the way).
> I guess there's not much I can do with that at this point, except a
> rebuild.
> Carbon deposits on the piston would seem to increase the C.R........
> maybe not, but it's a thought.
>
> Thanks for the info all. I'll check it all. I also thought the cat may
> be restricted, but it seems to hove plenty of power at high rpm = so
> it's moving air.

On May 22, 12:21 pm, Spiral_72 > wrote:
> First, I've searched this and come up with nothing. Kinda leads me to
> believe the timing is computer controlled. The Haynes manual is
> useless too.
>
> 95 Intrepid 3.3L (not flex fuel), 215k miles, well maintained and in
> good condition.
>
> How can I adjust the timing on this car?
>
> The reason I ask is I seem to have picked up a little detonation in
> the last 7-10k miles. It'll knock when I load the engine on a steep
> hil in 3rd/4th gear. There's no problem in 1st/2nd even if I stab the
> gas from a stop.
>
> The wires, Champion plugs (with the corrct gap), distributor cap and
> rotor have all been replaced with new Mopar units in the last 10-15k
> miles. Oil is changed with Valvoline 10w30 every 3-4k miles. The car
> is well maintained.
>
> Should I try a colder plug? Cooler thermostat? The outside temp
> doesn't seem to matter. I've tried higher octane gas, even though it's
> expensive it doesn't seem to matter much. Can I retard the timing a
> bit?
>
> Suggestions?

The timing is automatically set based on the data collected from the
cam and crankshaft sensors.

-KM

Well, um, to set the record straight....... as much as it pains me to
say I'm wrong..... ummmm, I seem to have lost the distributor on my
Intrepid.

Yea, that's it.

P.S.
I don't think it means anything, but I filled up with the high octane
stuff (ouch) and there's no knock. At least it'll get me by until I
fix the problem.

Spiral_72 wrote:


>>The 3.3 has never used a distributor cap or rotor.
>
> Except mine, cause I've replaced it.

Then you are mistaking a 3.0 for a 3.3, because trust me... the 3.3 has
never had a distributor. The 3.0 has.
>
>
>>Functional test of the EGR valve if it has one.
>
> I'll check that out. I've had EGR valves go bad on other cars and it
> run like crap. Doesn't mean that's not it though.

EGR can fail two ways. Failing to "always on" makes a car run like crap.
Failing to "never on" makes a car ping more than normal but otherwise it
will run *great*.

For the record, my problem seems to have been a faulty O2 sensor.
She's running good as new again (almost!)