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'97 Grand Caravan Brake Question



 
 
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  #21  
Old October 16th 04, 09:04 PM
Mark
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Posts: n/a
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Matt,

You may be right. I put the new magnetic dial indicator on the rotors & low
and behold one side was out only .003, the other .006" - I measured both
sides for runout - the side with the .006 is a thickness problem. Either
way - I'm sure that's well within spec. I took my die grinder with a scotch
brite roloc to the outside surfaces to rough them up a bit. Made a series
of hard stops - under hard braking it is smooth & has powerful braking -
easily got the abs working. Its still not quite right on the normal stop.
I may take the wheels off and rough up the inside surfaces as well - but
I'll first drive around a bit with some heavy braking. ( with my last set
of rotors were really warped, a mountain road helped with the warping - the
things were toast) I have to say that having a dial indicator is going to
be pretty useful for these sort of problems in the future.

Mark


"Matt Whiting" > wrote in message
...
> I've not used these type of pads, but does the break-in procedure call
> for very light braking during break-in? The break-in procedures I've
> read typically call for moderate to heavy braking during initial
> break-in to avoid glazing the pads and rotors. Usually, you make a
> series of reasonably hard stops with adequate cooling time in between to
> avoid warping the rotors.
>
> It is possible to "warp" the rotors without actually warping them. The
> theory is that with braking that is too light, you can cause the rotor
> to have uneven friction around its circumference and this causes pulsing
> that feels like a warped rotor, when in fact the rotor is just fine
> dimensionally. I've read that it can sometimes be cured with a series
> of fairly heavy stops to break the glaze.
>
> If you feel the braking is already so annoying that you are ready to
> replace the rotors again, then you have nothing to lose by trying a few
> hard stops to see if it helps.
>
>
> Matt
>



Ads
  #22  
Old October 17th 04, 02:52 AM
Mark
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Matt,

You may be right. I put the new magnetic dial indicator on the rotors & low
and behold one side was out only .003, the other .006" - I measured both
sides for runout - the side with the .006 is a thickness problem. Either
way - I'm sure that's well within spec. I took my die grinder with a scotch
brite roloc to the outside surfaces to rough them up a bit. Made a series
of hard stops - under hard braking it is smooth & has powerful braking -
easily got the abs working. Its still not quite right on the normal stop.
I may take the wheels off and rough up the inside surfaces as well - but
I'll first drive around a bit with some heavy braking. ( with my last set
of rotors were really warped, a mountain road helped with the warping - the
things were toast) I have to say that having a dial indicator is going to
be pretty useful for these sort of problems in the future.

Mark


"Matt Whiting" > wrote in message
...
> I've not used these type of pads, but does the break-in procedure call
> for very light braking during break-in? The break-in procedures I've
> read typically call for moderate to heavy braking during initial
> break-in to avoid glazing the pads and rotors. Usually, you make a
> series of reasonably hard stops with adequate cooling time in between to
> avoid warping the rotors.
>
> It is possible to "warp" the rotors without actually warping them. The
> theory is that with braking that is too light, you can cause the rotor
> to have uneven friction around its circumference and this causes pulsing
> that feels like a warped rotor, when in fact the rotor is just fine
> dimensionally. I've read that it can sometimes be cured with a series
> of fairly heavy stops to break the glaze.
>
> If you feel the braking is already so annoying that you are ready to
> replace the rotors again, then you have nothing to lose by trying a few
> hard stops to see if it helps.
>
>
> Matt
>



  #23  
Old October 17th 04, 02:52 AM
Mark
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Matt,

You may be right. I put the new magnetic dial indicator on the rotors & low
and behold one side was out only .003, the other .006" - I measured both
sides for runout - the side with the .006 is a thickness problem. Either
way - I'm sure that's well within spec. I took my die grinder with a scotch
brite roloc to the outside surfaces to rough them up a bit. Made a series
of hard stops - under hard braking it is smooth & has powerful braking -
easily got the abs working. Its still not quite right on the normal stop.
I may take the wheels off and rough up the inside surfaces as well - but
I'll first drive around a bit with some heavy braking. ( with my last set
of rotors were really warped, a mountain road helped with the warping - the
things were toast) I have to say that having a dial indicator is going to
be pretty useful for these sort of problems in the future.

Mark


"Matt Whiting" > wrote in message
...
> I've not used these type of pads, but does the break-in procedure call
> for very light braking during break-in? The break-in procedures I've
> read typically call for moderate to heavy braking during initial
> break-in to avoid glazing the pads and rotors. Usually, you make a
> series of reasonably hard stops with adequate cooling time in between to
> avoid warping the rotors.
>
> It is possible to "warp" the rotors without actually warping them. The
> theory is that with braking that is too light, you can cause the rotor
> to have uneven friction around its circumference and this causes pulsing
> that feels like a warped rotor, when in fact the rotor is just fine
> dimensionally. I've read that it can sometimes be cured with a series
> of fairly heavy stops to break the glaze.
>
> If you feel the braking is already so annoying that you are ready to
> replace the rotors again, then you have nothing to lose by trying a few
> hard stops to see if it helps.
>
>
> Matt
>



  #24  
Old October 17th 04, 12:41 PM
Ted Mittelstaedt
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Mark" > wrote in message
et...
> They are new ! This is like the third or fourth set of bendix, raybestos,
> brembo ....
>


Hate to say it but perhaps it's your braking technique. I know, I know
everyone
gets insulted when someone makes a suggestion that they don't know how to
drive, everyone figures they should know how to drive straight out of the
womb.

But I see this every day coming home on the expressway.

1) Never use your left foot to brake. First of all this encourages people
to
rest their left foot on the brake, secondly in a panic stop someone could
stamp down on both the accellerator and the brake at the same time.

2) Never rest your foot on the brake. The brake petal is not a footrest.
Either rest your foot on the accellerator or if using cruise control, on the
floor.

3) Harder braking for a short time is much better than light braking for a
long
time. You should feel the weight of your body shift forward during
braking -
if you don't, your not braking hard enough.

4) You should use the brake as little as possible. If you are crusing down
the
street at 45Mph and 1000 feet in front of you you see a light change to red,
you should take your foot off the accellerator and coast to the stop,
braking
firmly at the last 300 feet. You do not gas it until you get to 200 feet
then
slam on the brakes. Nor do you apply the brakes lightly at 1000 feet and
coast with the brake on all the way to the light.

If you are on the expressway and it's congested, you should pick a crusing
speed
that allows you to not have to brake. If the average speed of the traffic
is
40Mph, then drive 40Mph. If periodically a gap opens up in front of you
then good, that is what's supposed to happen. Do not drive 55Mph for a
quarter mile on someone's arse then ride the brake for another quarter mile
on someone's arse, then gas it for another quarter mile on someone's arse,
etc. Remember, the only time that
a driver should ever use brakes on a freeway is if there's an accident in
front of him. Brakes should only be used when approaching an intersection
or when you see a cop with a radar gun, and there are no intersections on a
freeway.

5) Do not use the parking brake if you are one of those people who easily
forgets to take it off when you start driving.

If everyone did this driving would be a lot more pleasant for everyone and
everyone would also save a lot of gas. Also, there would be far less
"caterpillaring" of traffic on a freeway and traffic would actually go
faster
on the freeway.

Ted


  #25  
Old October 17th 04, 12:41 PM
Ted Mittelstaedt
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Mark" > wrote in message
et...
> They are new ! This is like the third or fourth set of bendix, raybestos,
> brembo ....
>


Hate to say it but perhaps it's your braking technique. I know, I know
everyone
gets insulted when someone makes a suggestion that they don't know how to
drive, everyone figures they should know how to drive straight out of the
womb.

But I see this every day coming home on the expressway.

1) Never use your left foot to brake. First of all this encourages people
to
rest their left foot on the brake, secondly in a panic stop someone could
stamp down on both the accellerator and the brake at the same time.

2) Never rest your foot on the brake. The brake petal is not a footrest.
Either rest your foot on the accellerator or if using cruise control, on the
floor.

3) Harder braking for a short time is much better than light braking for a
long
time. You should feel the weight of your body shift forward during
braking -
if you don't, your not braking hard enough.

4) You should use the brake as little as possible. If you are crusing down
the
street at 45Mph and 1000 feet in front of you you see a light change to red,
you should take your foot off the accellerator and coast to the stop,
braking
firmly at the last 300 feet. You do not gas it until you get to 200 feet
then
slam on the brakes. Nor do you apply the brakes lightly at 1000 feet and
coast with the brake on all the way to the light.

If you are on the expressway and it's congested, you should pick a crusing
speed
that allows you to not have to brake. If the average speed of the traffic
is
40Mph, then drive 40Mph. If periodically a gap opens up in front of you
then good, that is what's supposed to happen. Do not drive 55Mph for a
quarter mile on someone's arse then ride the brake for another quarter mile
on someone's arse, then gas it for another quarter mile on someone's arse,
etc. Remember, the only time that
a driver should ever use brakes on a freeway is if there's an accident in
front of him. Brakes should only be used when approaching an intersection
or when you see a cop with a radar gun, and there are no intersections on a
freeway.

5) Do not use the parking brake if you are one of those people who easily
forgets to take it off when you start driving.

If everyone did this driving would be a lot more pleasant for everyone and
everyone would also save a lot of gas. Also, there would be far less
"caterpillaring" of traffic on a freeway and traffic would actually go
faster
on the freeway.

Ted


  #26  
Old October 17th 04, 03:52 PM
mic canic
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

one thing i have noticed with aftermarket brake rotors is they do not fit
around the hub correctly to tight there and when you torq them down they get
warped out of shape and it wopuld be the firsttime a damaged new part made it
on a new van

Mark wrote:

> They are new ! This is like the third or fourth set of bendix, raybestos,
> brembo ....
>
> I just got my magnetic dial indicator base, I'm going to get to the bottom
> of this today ! ??? Hopefully I'll find a shot hub (s) or axle (s) I
> wonder if the van fell off of something on the way to the dealer lot. I've
> owned it since new, this problem has been a royal PITA. Because it's brake
> related, I've never been able to convince Chrysler that this is anything
> other than an normal wear item.
>
> "mic canic" > wrote in message
> ...
>
> > new rotors
> >


  #27  
Old October 17th 04, 03:52 PM
mic canic
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

one thing i have noticed with aftermarket brake rotors is they do not fit
around the hub correctly to tight there and when you torq them down they get
warped out of shape and it wopuld be the firsttime a damaged new part made it
on a new van

Mark wrote:

> They are new ! This is like the third or fourth set of bendix, raybestos,
> brembo ....
>
> I just got my magnetic dial indicator base, I'm going to get to the bottom
> of this today ! ??? Hopefully I'll find a shot hub (s) or axle (s) I
> wonder if the van fell off of something on the way to the dealer lot. I've
> owned it since new, this problem has been a royal PITA. Because it's brake
> related, I've never been able to convince Chrysler that this is anything
> other than an normal wear item.
>
> "mic canic" > wrote in message
> ...
>
> > new rotors
> >


  #28  
Old October 17th 04, 03:56 PM
mic canic
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

general min. spec on run out is .002 any more than that and you have a problem

Mark wrote:

> Matt,
>
> You may be right. I put the new magnetic dial indicator on the rotors & low
> and behold one side was out only .003, the other .006" - I measured both
> sides for runout - the side with the .006 is a thickness problem. Either
> way - I'm sure that's well within spec. I took my die grinder with a scotch
> brite roloc to the outside surfaces to rough them up a bit. Made a series
> of hard stops - under hard braking it is smooth & has powerful braking -
> easily got the abs working. Its still not quite right on the normal stop.
> I may take the wheels off and rough up the inside surfaces as well - but
> I'll first drive around a bit with some heavy braking. ( with my last set
> of rotors were really warped, a mountain road helped with the warping - the
> things were toast) I have to say that having a dial indicator is going to
> be pretty useful for these sort of problems in the future.
>
> Mark
>
> "Matt Whiting" > wrote in message
> ...
> > I've not used these type of pads, but does the break-in procedure call
> > for very light braking during break-in? The break-in procedures I've
> > read typically call for moderate to heavy braking during initial
> > break-in to avoid glazing the pads and rotors. Usually, you make a
> > series of reasonably hard stops with adequate cooling time in between to
> > avoid warping the rotors.
> >
> > It is possible to "warp" the rotors without actually warping them. The
> > theory is that with braking that is too light, you can cause the rotor
> > to have uneven friction around its circumference and this causes pulsing
> > that feels like a warped rotor, when in fact the rotor is just fine
> > dimensionally. I've read that it can sometimes be cured with a series
> > of fairly heavy stops to break the glaze.
> >
> > If you feel the braking is already so annoying that you are ready to
> > replace the rotors again, then you have nothing to lose by trying a few
> > hard stops to see if it helps.
> >
> >
> > Matt
> >


  #29  
Old October 17th 04, 03:56 PM
mic canic
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

general min. spec on run out is .002 any more than that and you have a problem

Mark wrote:

> Matt,
>
> You may be right. I put the new magnetic dial indicator on the rotors & low
> and behold one side was out only .003, the other .006" - I measured both
> sides for runout - the side with the .006 is a thickness problem. Either
> way - I'm sure that's well within spec. I took my die grinder with a scotch
> brite roloc to the outside surfaces to rough them up a bit. Made a series
> of hard stops - under hard braking it is smooth & has powerful braking -
> easily got the abs working. Its still not quite right on the normal stop.
> I may take the wheels off and rough up the inside surfaces as well - but
> I'll first drive around a bit with some heavy braking. ( with my last set
> of rotors were really warped, a mountain road helped with the warping - the
> things were toast) I have to say that having a dial indicator is going to
> be pretty useful for these sort of problems in the future.
>
> Mark
>
> "Matt Whiting" > wrote in message
> ...
> > I've not used these type of pads, but does the break-in procedure call
> > for very light braking during break-in? The break-in procedures I've
> > read typically call for moderate to heavy braking during initial
> > break-in to avoid glazing the pads and rotors. Usually, you make a
> > series of reasonably hard stops with adequate cooling time in between to
> > avoid warping the rotors.
> >
> > It is possible to "warp" the rotors without actually warping them. The
> > theory is that with braking that is too light, you can cause the rotor
> > to have uneven friction around its circumference and this causes pulsing
> > that feels like a warped rotor, when in fact the rotor is just fine
> > dimensionally. I've read that it can sometimes be cured with a series
> > of fairly heavy stops to break the glaze.
> >
> > If you feel the braking is already so annoying that you are ready to
> > replace the rotors again, then you have nothing to lose by trying a few
> > hard stops to see if it helps.
> >
> >
> > Matt
> >


 




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