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Broken Spark Plug - Need help fast



 
 
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  #1  
Old January 27th 05, 05:07 AM
Daniel J. Stern
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Default Broken Spark Plug - Need help fast

On Wed, 26 Jan 2005, jbarts wrote:

> 1996 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9l engine I was changing my plugs and one broke.
> The "body" of the plug came out but the part that bottom part screws
> into the head is still in there.


Assuming you were using a spark plug socket and not just a regular deep
socket that happened to fit, we see here the downside of:

1) Ultra-extended spark plug intervals
2) Champion spark plugs


> What can I do to remove this, I've tried my tap and die, I could not
> move it. Out of all the plugs it had the most rust. I've WD40 it and
> will let it sit overnight.


WD40 is not really very good for much of anything, and it's utterly
worthless as a penetrant. First choice in penetrants is Kroil, but you're
not likely to find it locally, so go get a can of Mopar penetrating fluid
P/N 4318039 from your dealer. I've never figured out what they put in this
stuff and it has a truly bizarre smell, but it works very well.

I'm not quite clear on reading your description where the plug broke off.
I'm assuming it sheared right off right *BELOW* the hex section? Are you
left with a solid plug, or with a ring of metal?


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  #2  
Old January 27th 05, 10:57 AM
Tokay
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If getting stuff in the cylinder is a big fear, why not take the head
off? You lose a little bit of leverage that way, but at least you
could get at it from both sides.....


Just an idea, I'm no expert.

  #3  
Old January 27th 05, 01:17 PM
Henry
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Default

I agree, head removal is the propper way.
I ran into this before with an aluminium head, its just not worth it to
drill the core with head in place.
If all the ducks are lined up (parts, tools etc) its an easy job.

Henry


"Tokay" > wrote in message
ups.com...
> If getting stuff in the cylinder is a big fear, why not take the head
> off? You lose a little bit of leverage that way, but at least you
> could get at it from both sides.....
>
>
> Just an idea, I'm no expert.
>



  #4  
Old January 27th 05, 02:49 PM
Henry
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By the way, there are two important processes that should be considered with
aluminum heads and steel spark plug threads.
1. the different rate and extent of thermal expansion
:heating and cooling might break the corrosion bond

2. electrolysis between dissimilar metals causes corrosion between the
surfaces.
: there are compounds that should be applied to the plug threads to reduce
the effects of electrolysis.

Henry

"Henry" > wrote in message
.. .
>I agree, head removal is the propper way.
> I ran into this before with an aluminium head, its just not worth it to
> drill the core with head in place.
> If all the ducks are lined up (parts, tools etc) its an easy job.
>
> Henry
>
>
> "Tokay" > wrote in message
> ups.com...
>> If getting stuff in the cylinder is a big fear, why not take the head
>> off? You lose a little bit of leverage that way, but at least you
>> could get at it from both sides.....
>>
>>
>> Just an idea, I'm no expert.
>>

>
>



  #5  
Old January 27th 05, 03:49 PM
James Goforth
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Why would Champions be more prone to cause this problem?

  #6  
Old January 31st 05, 10:33 PM
Nick Hull
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In article >,
"Henry" > wrote:

> By the way, there are two important processes that should be considered with
> aluminum heads and steel spark plug threads.


3) Nitric acid dissolves steel and doesn't touch aluminum

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