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#11
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LarryB wrote: > If I put the front end on blocks it looks like I only lower it 8 or 9 > inches. Is it more the angle of the lowered truck that helps? If it > is, it seems like driving the back wheels on to ramps may help also. I > only have access to a cherry picker. The angle and the lowered height help a lot more than you would initially think. I don't know about putting the rear end up on ramps; though I would encourage the use of ramps over jackstands, so it might not hurt to try. I should have also mentioned: if you don't have fender covers, at least use some old blankets or rugs to protect your fenders and front grill as you're working. good luck! GTr - - http://www.preservestoughton.org/ |
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#12
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Thanks for the help, if anyone else has suggestions please let me know.
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#13
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Thanks for the help, if anyone else has suggestions please let me know.
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#14
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#15
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#16
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"chestand" > wrote in message om... > (LarryB) wrote in message . com>... > > Thanks for the help, if anyone else has suggestions please let me know. > > Funny you should ask..... > > I pulled the 22r out of my son's '87 2wd last summer to access the rod > bearings. Like your manual, mine said the pull the motor and trans as > a unit. I didn't listen, pulled the motor (royal pain to get it > separated from the trans) and did the work. When it came time to lower > it back in, i worked in vain for nearly a whole day to get the two > mated back togeter. Finally gave up, pulled the trans, mated them > together outside the truck and installed them as a unit back in. Much > easier. When you read to pull it as a unit, believe it. It has to do > with the dowels between the bellhousing and the back of the engine. > Things have to be just right and I never could get that combination of > "just right". > By the way, good luck... > > Charlie Why did you pull the engine? I changed the rod bearings in my '86 2wd (and piston rings - had the head off because it was cracked) with the engine in situ. The pan comes down easily. |
#17
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"chestand" > wrote in message om... > (LarryB) wrote in message . com>... > > Thanks for the help, if anyone else has suggestions please let me know. > > Funny you should ask..... > > I pulled the 22r out of my son's '87 2wd last summer to access the rod > bearings. Like your manual, mine said the pull the motor and trans as > a unit. I didn't listen, pulled the motor (royal pain to get it > separated from the trans) and did the work. When it came time to lower > it back in, i worked in vain for nearly a whole day to get the two > mated back togeter. Finally gave up, pulled the trans, mated them > together outside the truck and installed them as a unit back in. Much > easier. When you read to pull it as a unit, believe it. It has to do > with the dowels between the bellhousing and the back of the engine. > Things have to be just right and I never could get that combination of > "just right". > By the way, good luck... > > Charlie Why did you pull the engine? I changed the rod bearings in my '86 2wd (and piston rings - had the head off because it was cracked) with the engine in situ. The pan comes down easily. |
#18
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"Chas Hurst" > wrote in message >...
> "chestand" > wrote in message > om... > > (LarryB) wrote in message > . com>... > > > Thanks for the help, if anyone else has suggestions please let me know. > > > > Funny you should ask..... > > > > I pulled the 22r out of my son's '87 2wd last summer to access the rod > > bearings. Like your manual, mine said the pull the motor and trans as > > a unit. I didn't listen, pulled the motor (royal pain to get it > > separated from the trans) and did the work. When it came time to lower > > it back in, i worked in vain for nearly a whole day to get the two > > mated back togeter. Finally gave up, pulled the trans, mated them > > together outside the truck and installed them as a unit back in. Much > > easier. When you read to pull it as a unit, believe it. It has to do > > with the dowels between the bellhousing and the back of the engine. > > Things have to be just right and I never could get that combination of > > "just right". > > By the way, good luck... > > > > Charlie > > Why did you pull the engine? I changed the rod bearings in my '86 2wd (and > piston rings - had the head off because it was cracked) with the engine in > situ. The pan comes down easily. I pulled the engine for a number of reasons. 1. I have a gravel driveway and don't particularly like lying on my back on the gravel for an extended period. 2. I didn't know exactly what was causing the horrible knock from the bottom end and I knew that if I had to pull the crank (I did by the way), that I'd much rather do it with the engine pulled and on a stand. And 3. I knew that with the mileage showing (approx. 200,000) that a clutch change was in order. P.S. - the ring gap was within factory specs - even with 200,000 miles on the clock! |
#19
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"Chas Hurst" > wrote in message >...
> "chestand" > wrote in message > om... > > (LarryB) wrote in message > . com>... > > > Thanks for the help, if anyone else has suggestions please let me know. > > > > Funny you should ask..... > > > > I pulled the 22r out of my son's '87 2wd last summer to access the rod > > bearings. Like your manual, mine said the pull the motor and trans as > > a unit. I didn't listen, pulled the motor (royal pain to get it > > separated from the trans) and did the work. When it came time to lower > > it back in, i worked in vain for nearly a whole day to get the two > > mated back togeter. Finally gave up, pulled the trans, mated them > > together outside the truck and installed them as a unit back in. Much > > easier. When you read to pull it as a unit, believe it. It has to do > > with the dowels between the bellhousing and the back of the engine. > > Things have to be just right and I never could get that combination of > > "just right". > > By the way, good luck... > > > > Charlie > > Why did you pull the engine? I changed the rod bearings in my '86 2wd (and > piston rings - had the head off because it was cracked) with the engine in > situ. The pan comes down easily. I pulled the engine for a number of reasons. 1. I have a gravel driveway and don't particularly like lying on my back on the gravel for an extended period. 2. I didn't know exactly what was causing the horrible knock from the bottom end and I knew that if I had to pull the crank (I did by the way), that I'd much rather do it with the engine pulled and on a stand. And 3. I knew that with the mileage showing (approx. 200,000) that a clutch change was in order. P.S. - the ring gap was within factory specs - even with 200,000 miles on the clock! |
#20
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