Replaced radiator, now it wont start :(

Bill Putney wrote:
> afx wrote:
>
>> On Aug 26, 11:25 am, afx > wrote:
>>
>>> On Aug 26, 11:12 am, Bill Putney > wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> afx wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On Aug 26, 10:23 am, Bill Putney > wrote:
>>>
>>>>>> afx wrote:
>>>
>>>>>>> So the radiator got replaced, started up the car and it was running
>>>>>>> fine, I went to check for tube leaks and found one with the trans.
>>>>>>> fluid slowly dripping out, I fixed it and when I went to restart the
>>>>>>> car it wont, just a single click. I checked the oil, its okay but it
>>>>>>> still wont start, I'm currently taking the battery out to let the
>>>>>>> car
>>>>>>> discharge for a bit before I start again..
>>>
>>>>>>> any suggestions?
>>>
>>>>>> If it's not a poor electrical connection as others have suggested,
>>>>>> then
>>>>>> the starter solenoid contacts may be worn out. The Denso/Nippondenso
>>>>>> starters that Chrysler uses in a lot of its vehicles is known for
>>>>>> this
>>>>>> problem after some age/wear (starter operation becomes
>>>>>> intermittent due
>>>>>> to worn solenoid contacts).
>>>
>>>>>> If this is the problem, then it's just coincidence that it
>>>>>> happened when
>>>>>> you replaced the radiator.
>>>
>>>>>> Here's a good source for new solenoid contacts and
>>>>>> plunger:http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...VLP&MfrPartNum...
>>>>>>
>>>
>>>>>> $13 plus shipping.
>>>
>>>>>> I had to put a set in my '98 Concorde about a month ago - same car
>>>>>> and
>>>>>> engine as yours.
>>>
>>>>>> (www.partsamericaistheparent company for regional parts stores
>>>>>> Advance, Schucks, Kragen, Checker, and Murray's. Be aware though
>>>>>> that
>>>>>> the local stores don't stock and can't order this particular part (at
>>>>>> least not my local Advance store) - you have to order off the
>>>>>> partsamerica web site.)
>>>
>>>>>> Bill Putney
>>>>>> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
>>>>>> address with the letter 'x')
>>>
>>>>> Bill,
>>>
>>>>> Thanks for the reply, do you really think it was such a coincidence
>>>>> that the solenoid went out right when I fixed the one tube, it was
>>>>> literally no more than 5 minutes later. I don't know exactly what
>>>>> these things do so if this single click is usually suspect of a bad
>>>>> solenoid then I trust ya
>>>
>>>> Well - definitely get a multimeter out and rule out any poor
>>>> connections
>>>> in the power feed (look for voltage drop or loss with key in the start
>>>> position) before you assume it's the solenoid contacts. The starter is
>>>> a moderate PITA to get out. Cycle the key to "start" several times
>>>> also
>>>> - usually the solenoid contacts will be intermittent, at least when the
>>>> problem first shows up. IOW - if you cycle the key several times, it
>>>> might decide to start about the 5th time.
>>>
>>>> Bill Putney
>>>> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
>>>> address with the letter 'x')- Hide quoted text -
>>>
>>>> - Show quoted text -
>>>
>>> Yeah, I tried to start it about 15 times straight and it was a no go.
>>> Could it be something with the transmission tube I messed with? Could
>>> that be blocking something by the starter?- Hide quoted text -
>>>
>>> - Show quoted text -
>>
>>
>> I tried jumping the battery but it was a no-go. I checked all the
>> electrical I could but I just dont understand why it would be doing
>> this. Im looking for my OBDII Reader to check for codes, I only had a
>> little oil in it because I was about to change it when the rad when
>> bad and a tiny bit leaked out the tube when I replaced the radiator. I
>> have since filled it and its all clean, do you think it could be a
>> precaution system not letting the car start? The car literally only
>> ran for like 15 seconds with the low oil.
>
> There is no computer input for low oil. The oil pressure switch is a
> dumb switch (contact closure) and controls the idiot light directly (no
> computer knows if the light is on), and that's it. IOW - it would let
> you run the engine with zero oil in it until the engine destroyed itself.
>
> Tme for multimeter and schematics (of the power/starting system to
> begine with).

Hi...

Having trouble accepting the coincidence of the starter solenoid
contacts going from good as new to nothing simultaneous with the work
the OP did, so...

Hoping that Winnipeg, Canada is too far away for either you or the OP
to come and punch me in the nose, I'd like to suggest once more that
he take a real good careful look at the battery positive (or extension
connection post) and make absolutely sure that he replaced all the
cables. Looking for a real thick stiff heavy cable; one that may have
fallen down out of sight. If you can't see it anywhere, try to trace
the heavy cable back from the starter, make sure it's there.

And if that's not it; this saga made a flashback for me. A gazillion
years ago, when I studied and worked both a full time and a part time
job - there were never ever enough dollars to buy a new solenoid or the
time to install it if there were. Had an old Olds, would start only
once in a while. Rest of the time, I had to make durn sure it was in
Park, parking brake on. Get down under the car with a screwdriver and
a small hammer. Use the screwdriver to connect battery to the solenoid
input (get the click) and then tap gently on the starter 'till she started.

Thinking that you said it wasn't fun to r+r the starter, maybe sorta
the same thing would work if the OP really wants to check. Safer and
easier - get a trusty friend to put 'er in park, hand brake on, foot
firmly on the service brake, and hold the key in the start position.
Then a few sharp raps on the starter with a hammer, or maybe a broom
stick (don't know where it is in his car) should confirm.

Take care.

Ken

afx wrote:
> On Aug 27, 5:57 pm, Bill Putney > wrote:
>> afx wrote:
>>> On Aug 26, 11:25 am, afx > wrote:
>>>> On Aug 26, 11:12 am, Bill Putney > wrote:
>>>>> afx wrote:
>>>>>> On Aug 26, 10:23 am, Bill Putney > wrote:
>>>>>>> afx wrote:
>>>>>>>> So the radiator got replaced, started up the car and it was running
>>>>>>>> fine, I went to check for tube leaks and found one with the trans.
>>>>>>>> fluid slowly dripping out, I fixed it and when I went to restart the
>>>>>>>> car it wont, just a single click. I checked the oil, its okay but it
>>>>>>>> still wont start, I'm currently taking the battery out to let the car
>>>>>>>> discharge for a bit before I start again..
>>>>>>>> any suggestions?
>>>>>>> If it's not a poor electrical connection as others have suggested, then
>>>>>>> the starter solenoid contacts may be worn out. The Denso/Nippondenso
>>>>>>> starters that Chrysler uses in a lot of its vehicles is known for this
>>>>>>> problem after some age/wear (starter operation becomes intermittent due
>>>>>>> to worn solenoid contacts).
>>>>>>> If this is the problem, then it's just coincidence that it happened when
>>>>>>> you replaced the radiator.
>>>>>>> Here's a good source for new solenoid contacts and plunger:http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...VLP&MfrPartNum...
>>>>>>> $13 plus shipping.
>>>>>>> I had to put a set in my '98 Concorde about a month ago - same car and
>>>>>>> engine as yours.
>>>>>>> (www.partsamericaistheparentcompany for regional parts stores
>>>>>>> Advance, Schucks, Kragen, Checker, and Murray's. Be aware though that
>>>>>>> the local stores don't stock and can't order this particular part (at
>>>>>>> least not my local Advance store) - you have to order off the
>>>>>>> partsamerica web site.)
>>>>>>> Bill Putney
>>>>>>> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
>>>>>>> address with the letter 'x')
>>>>>> Bill,
>>>>>> Thanks for the reply, do you really think it was such a coincidence
>>>>>> that the solenoid went out right when I fixed the one tube, it was
>>>>>> literally no more than 5 minutes later. I don't know exactly what
>>>>>> these things do so if this single click is usually suspect of a bad
>>>>>> solenoid then I trust ya
>>>>> Well - definitely get a multimeter out and rule out any poor connections
>>>>> in the power feed (look for voltage drop or loss with key in the start
>>>>> position) before you assume it's the solenoid contacts. The starter is
>>>>> a moderate PITA to get out. Cycle the key to "start" several times also
>>>>> - usually the solenoid contacts will be intermittent, at least when the
>>>>> problem first shows up. IOW - if you cycle the key several times, it
>>>>> might decide to start about the 5th time.
>>>>> Bill Putney
>>>>> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
>>>>> address with the letter 'x')- Hide quoted text -
>>>>> - Show quoted text -
>>>> Yeah, I tried to start it about 15 times straight and it was a no go.
>>>> Could it be something with the transmission tube I messed with? Could
>>>> that be blocking something by the starter?- Hide quoted text -
>>>> - Show quoted text -
>>> I tried jumping the battery but it was a no-go. I checked all the
>>> electrical I could but I just dont understand why it would be doing
>>> this. Im looking for my OBDII Reader to check for codes, I only had a
>>> little oil in it because I was about to change it when the rad when
>>> bad and a tiny bit leaked out the tube when I replaced the radiator. I
>>> have since filled it and its all clean, do you think it could be a
>>> precaution system not letting the car start? The car literally only
>>> ran for like 15 seconds with the low oil.
>> There is no computer input for low oil. The oil pressure switch is a
>> dumb switch (contact closure) and controls the idiot light directly (no
>> computer knows if the light is on), and that's it. IOW - it would let
>> you run the engine with zero oil in it until the engine destroyed itself.
>>
>> Tme for multimeter and schematics (of the power/starting system to
>> begine with).
>>
>> Bill Putney
>> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
>> address with the letter 'x')- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> Thats weird, about 5 years ago we had a leak in the oil pan and the
> oil ran out, one day the engine just stopped and wouldnt start, when
> we took it in he said it was a failsafe as to not ruin the engine.

Hi...

Houston, we have a problem.

Can't turn the starter 'till there's oil pressure, can't possibly
have any oil pressure 'till the engine's at least cranking...

Take care.

Ken

> Can't turn the starter 'till there's oil pressure, can't possibly
> have any oil pressure 'till the engine's at least cranking...


No oil pressure should kill the fuel pump. She should still crank all day
long. Not that it's a good idea.



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Ken Weitzel wrote:
> Bill Putney wrote:
>
>> afx wrote:
>>
>>> On Aug 26, 11:25 am, afx > wrote:
>>>
>>>> On Aug 26, 11:12 am, Bill Putney > wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> afx wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> On Aug 26, 10:23 am, Bill Putney > wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>> afx wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>>> So the radiator got replaced, started up the car and it was running
>>>>>>>> fine, I went to check for tube leaks and found one with the trans.
>>>>>>>> fluid slowly dripping out, I fixed it and when I went to restart
>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>> car it wont, just a single click. I checked the oil, its okay
>>>>>>>> but it
>>>>>>>> still wont start, I'm currently taking the battery out to let
>>>>>>>> the car
>>>>>>>> discharge for a bit before I start again..
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>>> any suggestions?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>> If it's not a poor electrical connection as others have
>>>>>>> suggested, then
>>>>>>> the starter solenoid contacts may be worn out. The
>>>>>>> Denso/Nippondenso
>>>>>>> starters that Chrysler uses in a lot of its vehicles is known for
>>>>>>> this
>>>>>>> problem after some age/wear (starter operation becomes
>>>>>>> intermittent due
>>>>>>> to worn solenoid contacts).
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>> If this is the problem, then it's just coincidence that it
>>>>>>> happened when
>>>>>>> you replaced the radiator.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>> Here's a good source for new solenoid contacts and
>>>>>>> plunger:http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...VLP&MfrPartNum...
>>>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>> $13 plus shipping.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>> I had to put a set in my '98 Concorde about a month ago - same
>>>>>>> car and
>>>>>>> engine as yours.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>> (www.partsamericaistheparent company for regional parts stores
>>>>>>> Advance, Schucks, Kragen, Checker, and Murray's. Be aware though
>>>>>>> that
>>>>>>> the local stores don't stock and can't order this particular part
>>>>>>> (at
>>>>>>> least not my local Advance store) - you have to order off the
>>>>>>> partsamerica web site.)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>> Bill Putney
>>>>>>> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
>>>>>>> address with the letter 'x')
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>> Bill,
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks for the reply, do you really think it was such a coincidence
>>>>>> that the solenoid went out right when I fixed the one tube, it was
>>>>>> literally no more than 5 minutes later. I don't know exactly what
>>>>>> these things do so if this single click is usually suspect of a bad
>>>>>> solenoid then I trust ya
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> Well - definitely get a multimeter out and rule out any poor
>>>>> connections
>>>>> in the power feed (look for voltage drop or loss with key in the start
>>>>> position) before you assume it's the solenoid contacts. The
>>>>> starter is
>>>>> a moderate PITA to get out. Cycle the key to "start" several times
>>>>> also
>>>>> - usually the solenoid contacts will be intermittent, at least when
>>>>> the
>>>>> problem first shows up. IOW - if you cycle the key several times, it
>>>>> might decide to start about the 5th time.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> Bill Putney
>>>>> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
>>>>> address with the letter 'x')- Hide quoted text -
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> - Show quoted text -
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Yeah, I tried to start it about 15 times straight and it was a no go.
>>>> Could it be something with the transmission tube I messed with? Could
>>>> that be blocking something by the starter?- Hide quoted text -
>>>>
>>>> - Show quoted text -
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I tried jumping the battery but it was a no-go. I checked all the
>>> electrical I could but I just dont understand why it would be doing
>>> this. Im looking for my OBDII Reader to check for codes, I only had a
>>> little oil in it because I was about to change it when the rad when
>>> bad and a tiny bit leaked out the tube when I replaced the radiator. I
>>> have since filled it and its all clean, do you think it could be a
>>> precaution system not letting the car start? The car literally only
>>> ran for like 15 seconds with the low oil.
>>
>>
>> There is no computer input for low oil. The oil pressure switch is a
>> dumb switch (contact closure) and controls the idiot light directly
>> (no computer knows if the light is on), and that's it. IOW - it would
>> let you run the engine with zero oil in it until the engine destroyed
>> itself.
>>
>> Tme for multimeter and schematics (of the power/starting system to
>> begine with).
>
>
> Hi...
>
> Having trouble accepting the coincidence of the starter solenoid
> contacts going from good as new to nothing simultaneous with the work
> the OP did, so...

I agree - that's why I said "Well - definitely get a multimeter out and
rule out any poor connections in the power feed (look for voltage drop
or loss with key in the start position) before you assume it's the
solenoid contacts".

> Hoping that Winnipeg, Canada is too far away for either you or the OP
> to come and punch me in the nose, I'd like to suggest once more that
> he take a real good careful look at the battery positive (or extension
> connection post) and make absolutely sure that he replaced all the
> cables.

No I agree. This is why I have suggested twice to get a multimeter out.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

afx wrote:

> Thats weird, about 5 years ago we had a leak in the oil pan and the
> oil ran out, one day the engine just stopped and wouldnt start, when
> we took it in he said it was a failsafe as to not ruin the engine.

On this engine? There is no failsafe on this engine.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

Ken,

I've confirmed bad solenoid contacts using the hammer method (not with the
screwdriver though ... I have a partner in the vehicle turn the key to start
while I rap lightly on the starter and take car not to be anywhere near
anything that turns/moves under the vehicle) on many occasions!

I find Nippondenso starter contacts last us about 5-7 years and 50-80K
miles. I buy them now from a source on the Internet for pretty cheap and
have them here ready and waiting since I have 3 Chryslers and a Mitsubishi
that all use them!

Bob


"Ken Weitzel" > wrote in message
news:1cKAi.98525$rX4.34377@pd7urf2no...
> Bill Putney wrote:
>> afx wrote:
>>
>>> On Aug 26, 11:25 am, afx > wrote:
>>>
>>>> On Aug 26, 11:12 am, Bill Putney > wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> afx wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> On Aug 26, 10:23 am, Bill Putney > wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>>> afx wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>>>> So the radiator got replaced, started up the car and it was running
>>>>>>>> fine, I went to check for tube leaks and found one with the trans.
>>>>>>>> fluid slowly dripping out, I fixed it and when I went to restart
>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>> car it wont, just a single click. I checked the oil, its okay but
>>>>>>>> it
>>>>>>>> still wont start, I'm currently taking the battery out to let the
>>>>>>>> car
>>>>>>>> discharge for a bit before I start again..
>>>>
>>>>>>>> any suggestions?
>>>>
>>>>>>> If it's not a poor electrical connection as others have suggested,
>>>>>>> then
>>>>>>> the starter solenoid contacts may be worn out. The
>>>>>>> Denso/Nippondenso
>>>>>>> starters that Chrysler uses in a lot of its vehicles is known for
>>>>>>> this
>>>>>>> problem after some age/wear (starter operation becomes intermittent
>>>>>>> due
>>>>>>> to worn solenoid contacts).
>>>>
>>>>>>> If this is the problem, then it's just coincidence that it happened
>>>>>>> when
>>>>>>> you replaced the radiator.
>>>>
>>>>>>> Here's a good source for new solenoid contacts and
>>>>>>> plunger:http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...VLP&MfrPartNum...
>>>>
>>>>>>> $13 plus shipping.
>>>>
>>>>>>> I had to put a set in my '98 Concorde about a month ago - same car
>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>> engine as yours.
>>>>
>>>>>>> (www.partsamericaistheparent company for regional parts stores
>>>>>>> Advance, Schucks, Kragen, Checker, and Murray's. Be aware though
>>>>>>> that
>>>>>>> the local stores don't stock and can't order this particular part
>>>>>>> (at
>>>>>>> least not my local Advance store) - you have to order off the
>>>>>>> partsamerica web site.)
>>>>
>>>>>>> Bill Putney
>>>>>>> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
>>>>>>> address with the letter 'x')
>>>>
>>>>>> Bill,
>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks for the reply, do you really think it was such a coincidence
>>>>>> that the solenoid went out right when I fixed the one tube, it was
>>>>>> literally no more than 5 minutes later. I don't know exactly what
>>>>>> these things do so if this single click is usually suspect of a bad
>>>>>> solenoid then I trust ya
>>>>
>>>>> Well - definitely get a multimeter out and rule out any poor
>>>>> connections
>>>>> in the power feed (look for voltage drop or loss with key in the start
>>>>> position) before you assume it's the solenoid contacts. The starter
>>>>> is
>>>>> a moderate PITA to get out. Cycle the key to "start" several times
>>>>> also
>>>>> - usually the solenoid contacts will be intermittent, at least when
>>>>> the
>>>>> problem first shows up. IOW - if you cycle the key several times, it
>>>>> might decide to start about the 5th time.
>>>>
>>>>> Bill Putney
>>>>> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
>>>>> address with the letter 'x')- Hide quoted text -
>>>>
>>>>> - Show quoted text -
>>>>
>>>> Yeah, I tried to start it about 15 times straight and it was a no go.
>>>> Could it be something with the transmission tube I messed with? Could
>>>> that be blocking something by the starter?- Hide quoted text -
>>>>
>>>> - Show quoted text -
>>>
>>>
>>> I tried jumping the battery but it was a no-go. I checked all the
>>> electrical I could but I just dont understand why it would be doing
>>> this. Im looking for my OBDII Reader to check for codes, I only had a
>>> little oil in it because I was about to change it when the rad when
>>> bad and a tiny bit leaked out the tube when I replaced the radiator. I
>>> have since filled it and its all clean, do you think it could be a
>>> precaution system not letting the car start? The car literally only
>>> ran for like 15 seconds with the low oil.
>>
>> There is no computer input for low oil. The oil pressure switch is a
>> dumb switch (contact closure) and controls the idiot light directly (no
>> computer knows if the light is on), and that's it. IOW - it would let
>> you run the engine with zero oil in it until the engine destroyed
>> itself.
>>
>> Tme for multimeter and schematics (of the power/starting system to begine
>> with).
>
> Hi...
>
> Having trouble accepting the coincidence of the starter solenoid contacts
> going from good as new to nothing simultaneous with the work the OP did,
> so...
>
> Hoping that Winnipeg, Canada is too far away for either you or the OP
> to come and punch me in the nose, I'd like to suggest once more that
> he take a real good careful look at the battery positive (or extension
> connection post) and make absolutely sure that he replaced all the
> cables. Looking for a real thick stiff heavy cable; one that may have
> fallen down out of sight. If you can't see it anywhere, try to trace
> the heavy cable back from the starter, make sure it's there.
>
> And if that's not it; this saga made a flashback for me. A gazillion
> years ago, when I studied and worked both a full time and a part time
> job - there were never ever enough dollars to buy a new solenoid or the
> time to install it if there were. Had an old Olds, would start only once
> in a while. Rest of the time, I had to make durn sure it was in
> Park, parking brake on. Get down under the car with a screwdriver and
> a small hammer. Use the screwdriver to connect battery to the solenoid
> input (get the click) and then tap gently on the starter 'till she
> started.
>
> Thinking that you said it wasn't fun to r+r the starter, maybe sorta
> the same thing would work if the OP really wants to check. Safer and
> easier - get a trusty friend to put 'er in park, hand brake on, foot
> firmly on the service brake, and hold the key in the start position.
> Then a few sharp raps on the starter with a hammer, or maybe a broom
> stick (don't know where it is in his car) should confirm.
>
> Take care.
>
> Ken

Ken, Bill, Blackfoot,

Thanks for the flurry of replies, I really do appreciate you taking
time out of your night to help me


Ill try the starter trick tonight, I had an old Hyundai and I had to
get under with a hammer for a while to get it to start sometimes.


I just have one thing I cant get off my mind, if you can put it to
rest that would help.


The car started just fine when we first put the radiator in, I turned
it off for not all of 30 seconds to fix the transmission fluid hose
then it wouldn't start, is their anything I could have done to a
battery terminal or switch that I wouldn't have noticed? I tend to
have okay luck with cars when I work on em and hope that a starter
going bad (or solenoid) at the exact time I was fixing another part
would be improbable but Ive checked everything else I can think!


I let the battery charge for about 15 minutes and it still wont turn.
I have the day off tomorrow to sit in the 112 degree heat and work on
this thing


Again, if I see any of you in a bar, first rounds on me....I don't
drink much so Ill have a Dr. Pepper...

And ofcorse Bob..Cant forget Bob.

Bob Shuman wrote:
> Ken,
>
> I've confirmed bad solenoid contacts using the hammer method (not with the
> screwdriver though ... I have a partner in the vehicle turn the key to start
> while I rap lightly on the starter and take car not to be anywhere near
> anything that turns/moves under the vehicle) on many occasions!
>
> I find Nippondenso starter contacts last us about 5-7 years and 50-80K
> miles. I buy them now from a source on the Internet for pretty cheap and
> have them here ready and waiting since I have 3 Chryslers and a Mitsubishi
> that all use them!
>
> Bob

Hey Bob - look at
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...mber=ND34S OL
(the parent company of Advance, Kragen, Schucks, etc.)

$13 plus shipping. Same quality level as everyone else on the www as
far as I can tell. I out a set in one of my Concordes a couple of
months ago.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

SBlackfoot wrote:

>>Can't turn the starter 'till there's oil pressure, can't possibly
>>have any oil pressure 'till the engine's at least cranking...
>
>
>
> No oil pressure should kill the fuel pump. She should still crank all day
> long. Not that it's a good idea.

Excuse me - but there is only one engine oil pressure sensor on this
vehicle, and it is the pressure switch for the idiot light on the
instrument cluster. It does nothing but control that light. Its output
does not go to any of the computers, and has no control whatsoever of
the fuel pump or the fuel pump relay.

LOW OIL PRESSURE WILL NOT SHUT THIS ENGINE DOWN.

Here is the schematic from the '98/'99 LH vehicle FSM of the one and
only engine oil pressure sensor (a switch) on this vehicle:
ttp://images27.fotki.com/v972/photos/4/42816/143201/ncordeoilpressurewiringdiagram-vi.jpg

I defy you and challenge anyone to present a schematic or a second
engine oil pressure sensing part of any kind on this vehicle. There is
no other on ANY 2nd gen LH car (probably 1st gen. too, but I don't know
for sure on that), and the schematic is correct in showing no connection
to anything other than the power from the fuse and the low oil pressure
indicator in the cluster - ABSOLUTELY NO CONNECTION TO ANYTHING THAT
WOULD SHUT IT DOWN FOR LOW ENGINE OIL PRESSURE.

Would everyone please quit saying that there is any sensor that will
shut this engine down for low oil pressure. If you disagree with that,
then put up or shut up: Present either an accurate (i.e., from Chrysler
FSM) schematic of the 2nd gen. LH car showing a second engine oil
pressure sensor and/or a part number for an engine oil pressure sensor
other than the low oil pressure light switch shown in the shcematic
linked above.

Not trying to be rude, but I find it necessary to be emphatic about this.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')