If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
'90 Civic: Extremely sluggish low-end acceleration, poor fuel economy
A few more issues from my poor little car for anyone who can shed some
light... My '90 5-spd Civic Ex has been bogging down at low RPMs since I bought it last fall. When I accelerate from a dead stop I have to goose it to about 2500rpm and then pop the clutch a bit to get it to take off as quick as I think it should. Especially in an up-hill situation. (no AC) If I drive it like other small manual 4-bangers I've owned (Corollas, etc), it will literally take 5-10 secs to get to the point where I think I should shift to 2nd. Gas pedal down half way or floored makes no difference. Also, doesn't matter if the car is at temp or just started. After 1st gear and I'm moving a bit, there's no problem. I seem to remember reading about a potentiometer (maybe in the throttle? can't remember the details) that, if the contacts were dirty, would cause this type of thing. Maybe I'm just crazy and I dreamed this.... I'm also getting only about 15-18mpg in town and 20-23mpg hwy this summer... seems incredibly low. Was getting the same last winter, but wrote it off to cold weather. Spark plugs are about a year old, newish air filter, and OEM O2 sensor's only 6 months old. ECU's not throwing any codes. -Back pressure too low/high? (bad catalytic converter?) -Bad plug wires? (I'm sure they're not Honda OEM wires, but I think they're only about a year old) -Clogged EFI? -Timing out of adjustment? I didn't fool with the dist. when I changed the timing belt, mostly because I couldn't find a damn marking anywhere on the crankshaft pully to save my life. Ran like a top after the belt change, so I'm confident it's not a tooth off... HELP! Any advice would be greatly appreciated... Regards, -Bruce |
Ads |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
That mileage is pathetic.
When's the last time you replaced the PCV valve? I replaced mine on my 91 Civic for the first time (way overdue) two years ago, and the mileage shot up. The plug wires? Fuel filter? Air filter? All of these are easy to do, inexpensive, and could be a part of, if not the, problem. "Bruce" > wrote > A few more issues from my poor little car for anyone who can shed some > light... > > My '90 5-spd Civic Ex has been bogging down at low RPMs since I bought > it last fall. When I accelerate from a dead stop I have to goose it to > about 2500rpm and then pop the clutch a bit to get it to take off as > quick as I think it should. Especially in an up-hill situation. (no AC) > > If I drive it like other small manual 4-bangers I've owned (Corollas, > etc), it will literally take 5-10 secs to get to the point where I > think I should shift to 2nd. Gas pedal down half way or floored makes > no difference. Also, doesn't matter if the car is at temp or just > started. After 1st gear and I'm moving a bit, there's no problem. I > seem to remember reading about a potentiometer (maybe in the throttle? > can't remember the details) that, if the contacts were dirty, would > cause this type of thing. Maybe I'm just crazy and I dreamed this.... > > I'm also getting only about 15-18mpg in town and 20-23mpg hwy this > summer... seems incredibly low. Was getting the same last winter, but > wrote it off to cold weather. Spark plugs are about a year old, newish > air filter, and OEM O2 sensor's only 6 months old. > > ECU's not throwing any codes. > > -Back pressure too low/high? (bad catalytic converter?) > -Bad plug wires? (I'm sure they're not Honda OEM wires, but I think > they're only about a year old) > -Clogged EFI? > -Timing out of adjustment? I didn't fool with the dist. when I changed > the timing belt, mostly because I couldn't find a damn marking anywhere > on the crankshaft pully to save my life. Ran like a top after the belt > change, so I'm confident it's not a tooth off... > > HELP! > > Any advice would be greatly appreciated... > > Regards, > -Bruce > |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Bruce wrote:
> A few more issues from my poor little car for anyone who can shed some > light... > > My '90 5-spd Civic Ex has been bogging down at low RPMs since I bought > it last fall. When I accelerate from a dead stop I have to goose it to > about 2500rpm and then pop the clutch a bit to get it to take off as > quick as I think it should. Especially in an up-hill situation. (no AC) > > If I drive it like other small manual 4-bangers I've owned (Corollas, > etc), it will literally take 5-10 secs to get to the point where I > think I should shift to 2nd. Gas pedal down half way or floored makes > no difference. Also, doesn't matter if the car is at temp or just > started. After 1st gear and I'm moving a bit, there's no problem. I > seem to remember reading about a potentiometer (maybe in the throttle? > can't remember the details) that, if the contacts were dirty, would > cause this type of thing. Maybe I'm just crazy and I dreamed this.... > > I'm also getting only about 15-18mpg in town and 20-23mpg hwy this > summer... seems incredibly low. Was getting the same last winter, but > wrote it off to cold weather. Spark plugs are about a year old, newish > air filter, and OEM O2 sensor's only 6 months old. > > ECU's not throwing any codes. > > -Back pressure too low/high? (bad catalytic converter?) > -Bad plug wires? (I'm sure they're not Honda OEM wires, but I think > they're only about a year old) > -Clogged EFI? > -Timing out of adjustment? I didn't fool with the dist. when I changed > the timing belt, mostly because I couldn't find a damn marking anywhere > on the crankshaft pully to save my life. Ran like a top after the belt > change, so I'm confident it's not a tooth off... this is confusing - it's run bad since you got it? but it ran great after you changed the belt, now runs bad again? if that's true, check your timing belt, it's probably skipped a tooth. > > HELP! > > Any advice would be greatly appreciated... > > Regards, > -Bruce > |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Sorry.... that was kind of vague.
What I meant is that it runs great except for this 1st gear hesitation, but that it's done it since day one. There was no difference what-so-ever after the T-belt job. It starts on the first crank every time, idles great and drives very smoothly (always has) except for the sluggishness in 1st gear in low RPMs. |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Do Honda plug wires make that much of a difference? What about brands
of plugs? The wires I have now are the most expensive ones at Autozone and the plugs were about $2 each IIRC. Air filter is only a few months old, doesn't look dirty at all. I've heard the fuel filter is an easy job, but I've never done one before. Where is it located and what does it look like? I guess if I just buy one it will help me find it. I think my Haynes manual says it's on the firewall, but it also states that the fuel pressure must be released to do this, and it's pretty vague about that procedure. Thanks |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
I checked the PCV valve a few weeks ago... I was told if the bead
inside is loose, it's ok. I blew some degreaser through it just to be sure, but there is no moisture build-up in the crank case. I guess for a $3 part I might as well get a new one, but I don't think it's the problem. Do Honda plug wires make that much of a difference? What about brands of plugs? The wires I have now are the most expensive ones at Autozone and the plugs were about $2 each IIRC. Air filter is only a few months old, doesn't look dirty at all. I've heard the fuel filter is an easy job, but I've never done one before. Where is it located and what does it look like? I guess if I just buy one it will help me find it. I think my Haynes manual says it's on the firewall, but it also states that the fuel pressure must be released to do this, and it's pretty vague about that procedure. Thanks |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
"Bruce" > wrote
> I checked the PCV valve a few weeks ago... I was told if the bead > inside is loose, it's ok. I don't buy this. There's a spring in there and it will lose its optimum effectiveness over time, despite the little test one can do to hear the bead operate the valve. The valve is a control valve, meaning it often operates somewhere between fully open and fully shut, so the spring's integrity should be vital. Particularly if it's the original PCV valve, I would replace it. Just one easy thing to eliminate. > I blew some degreaser through it just to be > sure, but there is no moisture build-up in the crank case. Now I fully remove my Civic's PCV valve once a year and spray PB Blaster into it. > I guess for > a $3 part I might as well get a new one, but I don't think it's the > problem. Buy the OEM PCV valve for around $20 at your dealer's. Word on the street is that the non-OEM versions are not good. > Do Honda plug wires make that much of a difference? My understanding is yes. Buy the OEM plug wires. (I am frugal, by the way, but over the years I've learned my lesson on certain Honda engine parts and find the extra bucks laid out now saves me trouble later.) > What about brands > of plugs? Buy what the owner's manual recommends. My 91 Civic manual lists the exact plugs for three different manufacturers (NGK, ND, and Champion). I don't think platinum makes any noticeable difference, so don't let the salesperson at Autozone or wherever talk you into the platinum version unless you think it's cost-effective and/or improves performance. I think NGK is popular and a safe bet among people here. > The wires I have now are the most expensive ones at Autozone Lose these. > and the plugs were about $2 each IIRC. > > > Air filter is only a few months old, doesn't look dirty at all. Sounds good. > I've heard the fuel filter is an easy job, but I've never done one > before. Where is it located and what does it look like? I guess if I > just buy one it will help me find it. Yes. > I think my Haynes manual says > it's on the firewall, That's where it is on my 1991 Civic. > but it also states that the fuel pressure must be > > released to do this, and it's pretty vague about that procedure. Autozone should have a free online repair guide for your Civic that matches Chilton's. The Chilton manuals are better than Haynes, in my experience. Or go to http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/ConcertoManual/index.html. Go to the "Fuel and Emissions" sections, and click on "fuel filter." There's a drawing there that may help. The Concerto engine is very similar, if not identical, to the early 1990s Civic engines. The torque specs vary, though, so you should go to Autozone or get a Chilton's to get the exact torque specs for your fuel filter. Many years ago during the first time I replaced the filter, I found getting the bolts loose a little tricky. I had to find ways to brace wrenches etc. I also didn't have the best wrenches for the job. Now I do. Having done this four or five times, it's now a piece of cake. It's not hard nor particularly dangerous to release the fuel pressure. One just slowly loosens what is called the service bolt on the top of the filter, holding a rag around it, so some gasoline leaks out and relieves pressure. As I trust you can imagine, these are all regular maintenance items, so by doing them, you haven't really wasted money, and you've narrowed down what's behind your Civic's problems. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
"Bruce" > wrote in
ups.com: > I checked the PCV valve a few weeks ago... I was told if the bead > inside is loose, it's ok. I blew some degreaser through it just to be > sure, but there is no moisture build-up in the crank case. I guess for > a $3 part I might as well get a new one, but I don't think it's the > problem. It's not. And unless it's aftermarket, there's no "bead", just a plunger and spring. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
"Elle" > wrote in
ink.net: > "Bruce" > wrote >> I checked the PCV valve a few weeks ago... I was told if the bead >> inside is loose, it's ok. > > I don't buy this. There's a spring in there and it will lose its > optimum effectiveness over time, despite the little test one can do to > hear the bead operate the valve. The valve is a control valve, meaning > it often operates somewhere between fully open and fully shut, so the > spring's integrity should be vital. > > Particularly if it's the original PCV valve, I would replace it. Just > one easy thing to eliminate. I fianlly replaced my original a few weeks ago. It had 14 years and 248,000 miles on it. Didn't make a bit of difference to gas consumption or engine running. New FAQ page on that saga: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/pcv-replace/index.html Pics are part-way down. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Bruce wrote:
> Sorry.... that was kind of vague. > > What I meant is that it runs great except for this 1st gear hesitation, > but that it's done it since day one. There was no difference > what-so-ever after the T-belt job. It starts on the first crank every > time, idles great and drives very smoothly (always has) except for the > sluggishness in 1st gear in low RPMs. > automatic or stick? if automatic, ensure the timing is correct, clean out the egr valve and replace the thermostat. |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
civic acceleration question | Ritesh | Honda | 7 | July 8th 05 01:06 AM |
Help: 2003 Civic losing acceleration power | michaelschmichael | Honda | 3 | March 9th 05 09:11 PM |
Honda OEM Parts Catalogs for Sale | Joe | Honda | 0 | February 12th 05 01:43 PM |
98 chevy s10 blazer acceleration is sluggish. PLEASE ADVISE | Dave | 4x4 | 0 | April 8th 04 06:52 AM |