Rear Door Auto Latch - 2000 Concorde LXi

About three months ago, I replaced the latch in the passenger side
rear door. It gave me warning by buzzing so it was still functional
until I replaced the mechanism. Unfortunately, the driver's side rear
door didn't give me such a warning two days ago; it simply won't
respond to the power buttons nor can I pull the manual button up
that's located on the bottom of that rear window. Perhaps I'm jumping
to conclusions and assuming it's the switch. Perhaps there's a
separate fuse that operates each door latch? Could it be that
simple... or me be that lucky? If it isn't, I'd appreciate some advice
on opening that door.

jaygreg wrote:
> About three months ago, I replaced the latch in the passenger side
> rear door. It gave me warning by buzzing so it was still functional
> until I replaced the mechanism. Unfortunately, the driver's side rear
> door didn't give me such a warning two days ago; it simply won't
> respond to the power buttons nor can I pull the manual button up
> that's located on the bottom of that rear window. Perhaps I'm jumping
> to conclusions and assuming it's the switch. Perhaps there's a
> separate fuse that operates each door latch? Could it be that
> simple... or me be that lucky? If it isn't, I'd appreciate some advice
> on opening that door.

All 4 door lock actuators are on one fuse (circuit breaker actually).
But it sounds like your problem is mechanical - and in the latch. My
guess is that that latch needs to be replaced since neither electrical
nor mechanical actuation seems to work (mechanically jammed).

--
Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

jaygreg > writes:

> About three months ago, I replaced the latch in the passenger side
> rear door. It gave me warning by buzzing so it was still functional
> until I replaced the mechanism. Unfortunately, the driver's side rear
> door didn't give me such a warning two days ago; it simply won't
> respond to the power buttons nor can I pull the manual button up
> that's located on the bottom of that rear window. Perhaps I'm jumping
> to conclusions and assuming it's the switch. Perhaps there's a
> separate fuse that operates each door latch? Could it be that
> simple... or me be that lucky? If it isn't, I'd appreciate some advice
> on opening that door.

It sure sounds like the latch -- if it were the switch or a fuse,
pulling up on the manual lock would work. When it's happened to me
(those latches are a real weak point on that vehicle -- we've got a
2000 Intrepid and my best recollection is I've replaced every door
latch, and the rear driver side twice) I may have had to spend quite a
while wiggling the lock, inside handle, and outside handle before it
finally worked One Last Time.

On Jan 3, 1:45 pm, Bill Putney > wrote:
> jaygreg wrote:
> > About three months ago, I replaced the latch in the passenger side
> > rear door. It gave me warning by buzzing so it was still functional
> > until I replaced the mechanism. Unfortunately, the driver's side rear
> > door didn't give me such a warning two days ago; it simply won't
> > respond to the power buttons nor can I pull the manual button up
> > that's located on the bottom of that rear window. Perhaps I'm jumping
> > to conclusions and assuming it's the switch. Perhaps there's a
> > separate fuse that operates each door latch? Could it be that
> > simple... or me be that lucky? If it isn't, I'd appreciate some advice
> > on opening that door.
>
> All 4 door lock actuators are on one fuse (circuit breaker actually).
> But it sounds like your problem is mechanical - and in the latch. My
> guess is that that latch needs to be replaced since neither electrical
> nor mechanical actuation seems to work (mechanically jammed).
>
> --
> Bill Putney
> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
> address with the letter 'x')

But how do I get the door open now?

jaygreg wrote:
> On Jan 3, 1:45 pm, Bill Putney > wrote:
>> jaygreg wrote:
>>> About three months ago, I replaced the latch in the passenger side
>>> rear door. It gave me warning by buzzing so it was still functional
>>> until I replaced the mechanism. Unfortunately, the driver's side rear
>>> door didn't give me such a warning two days ago; it simply won't
>>> respond to the power buttons nor can I pull the manual button up
>>> that's located on the bottom of that rear window. Perhaps I'm jumping
>>> to conclusions and assuming it's the switch. Perhaps there's a
>>> separate fuse that operates each door latch? Could it be that
>>> simple... or me be that lucky? If it isn't, I'd appreciate some advice
>>> on opening that door.
>> All 4 door lock actuators are on one fuse (circuit breaker actually).
>> But it sounds like your problem is mechanical - and in the latch. My
>> guess is that that latch needs to be replaced since neither electrical
>> nor mechanical actuation seems to work (mechanically jammed).
>>
>> --
>> Bill Putney
>> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
>> address with the letter 'x')
>
> But how do I get the door open now?

That is a good question. Unless someone else knows the answer to that,
I believe I'd be hitting it repeatedly with pulse from the unlock switch
and the manual lock/unlock button. I would also try a series of all
hits in the unlock direction, and also a series of alternating lock and
unlock hits to try to jog it loose - just be ready to stop at the first
successful unlock so you don't go back to the locked position before you
can get the door open and change it out. Not sure which series would be
best to start with. Also hit the outside of the door and the inside
panel with your fist as hard as you dare without causing sheet metal or
plastic damage.

Also - call your local dealer - possibly they have had to deal with a
similar situation and would be kind enough to make good suggestions
without simply telling you to bring it in for them to look at. However,
over the years on the 300M Enthusiasts Club forums
(http://300mclub.org/forums/index.php), there have been a few threads
with this exact problem (Concorde and 300M are exact same car in this
area). Never saw a magic secret solution posted - even by the dealer
tech who chimed in on one of the threads.

If this was a computer, you would just be told to "reload Windows"!

--
Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

One other suggestion: When you use the electric lock to try to jog it
loose, do it with the engine running. That's because the system will
get higher voltage (approx. 14 vs. 12 with engine off) with the engine
running and so the solenoid force on the lock mechanism will be harder
and might have more success in working it loose.

--
Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

On Jan 4, 11:12 am, Bill Putney > wrote:
> jaygreg wrote:
> > On Jan 3, 1:45 pm, Bill Putney > wrote:
> >> jaygreg wrote:
> >>> About three months ago, I replaced the latch in the passenger side
> >>> rear door. It gave me warning by buzzing so it was still functional
> >>> until I replaced the mechanism. Unfortunately, the driver's side rear
> >>> door didn't give me such a warning two days ago; it simply won't
> >>> respond to the power buttons nor can I pull the manual button up
> >>> that's located on the bottom of that rear window. Perhaps I'm jumping
> >>> to conclusions and assuming it's the switch. Perhaps there's a
> >>> separate fuse that operates each door latch? Could it be that
> >>> simple... or me be that lucky? If it isn't, I'd appreciate some advice
> >>> on opening that door.
> >> All 4 door lock actuators are on one fuse (circuit breaker actually).
> >> But it sounds like your problem is mechanical - and in the latch. My
> >> guess is that that latch needs to be replaced since neither electrical
> >> nor mechanical actuation seems to work (mechanically jammed).
>
> >> --
> >> Bill Putney
> >> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
> >> address with the letter 'x')
>
> > But how do I get the door open now?
>
> That is a good question. Unless someone else knows the answer to that,
> I believe I'd be hitting it repeatedly with pulse from the unlock switch
> and the manual lock/unlock button. I would also try a series of all
> hits in the unlock direction, and also a series of alternating lock and
> unlock hits to try to jog it loose - just be ready to stop at the first
> successful unlock so you don't go back to the locked position before you
> can get the door open and change it out. Not sure which series would be
> best to start with. Also hit the outside of the door and the inside
> panel with your fist as hard as you dare without causing sheet metal or
> plastic damage.
>
> Also - call your local dealer - possibly they have had to deal with a
> similar situation and would be kind enough to make good suggestions
> without simply telling you to bring it in for them to look at. However,
> over the years on the 300M Enthusiasts Club forums
> (http://300mclub.org/forums/index.php), there have been a few threads
> with this exact problem (Concorde and 300M are exact same car in this
> area). Never saw a magic secret solution posted - even by the dealer
> tech who chimed in on one of the threads.
>
> If this was a computer, you would just be told to "reload Windows"!
>
> --
> Bill Putney
> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
> address with the letter 'x')

>>hitting it repeatedly with pulse from the unlock switch and the manual lock/unlock button<<

>>try a series of all hits in the unlock direction, and also a series of alternating lock and
unlock hits to try to jog it loose<<

Are you suggesting I use something flat - like a very broad screw
driver blade – placed under the lip of that lock button at the bottom
of my window then hit upward with a hammer... carefully but firmly?

jaygreg > writes:
>
> Are you suggesting I use something flat - like a very broad screw
> driver blade – placed under the lip of that lock button at the bottom
> of my window then hit upward with a hammer... carefully but firmly?

That wouldn't be a good idea -- there's a not-terribly-robust-looking
linkage in there, and your goal is to jiggle until everything gets
lucky.

> Are you suggesting I use something flat - like a very broad screw
> driver blade – placed under the lip of that lock button at the bottom
> of my window then hit upward with a hammer... carefully but firmly?

I would be really careful if you choose this route. The linkage is
the most robust thing I've ever seen.. I think you would break
something real quick with any kind of force.

Steve B.

Steve B. > writes:

>> Are you suggesting I use something flat - like a very broad screw
>> driver blade – placed under the lip of that lock button at the bottom
>> of my window then hit upward with a hammer... carefully but firmly?
>
> I would be really careful if you choose this route. The linkage is
> the most robust thing I've ever seen.. I think you would break
> something real quick with any kind of force.

Did you mean "not" the most robust?