Engine rebuilding

Grahame Rumballe wrote:
>
> "Kuebel Guy" >> wrote in
> message oups.com...
> > Ups!
> >
> > they are split type. so, better buy solid ones? sometimes is not easy
> > to select type from catalog.
> >
> > I am using new stock rods for a stock 1600.
> >
> > If I would like to hone bushings whats the best technique?
> >
> > cheers!
> >
> > carles
> >
> Honing is not the correct method. Honing follows the contours of the metal
> responding to dips and highs, you can never achieve a perfect circle.
> The correct procedure is to "ream" the bushes to suit your pin.
> With an installed new pin of 22mm (.8661 inch) you would be after .0004
> - .0008 radial play.
> So you "ream" the bush to suit.
> A good machine shop would be able to do this for you either using a
> straight or adjustible reamer.
>
> Check here <http://www.alvordpolk.com/catalog/dept.asp?id=54> for an
> example of what a "reamer" looks like.
>
> Grahame
> from Aus


Thanks for clearing that up, good reply Grahame!

Jan

Thanks!

Yes, reaming is the way to go. I do have a drill press and a lathe...

My problem here is that machine shops don't take small jobs, they
either do a full engine or refuse the work, so I am left to my own
here.

cheers

carles

On 28 Jul 2005 01:23:00 -0700 "Kuebel Guy" > wrote:

>My problem here is that machine shops don't take small jobs, they
>either do a full engine or refuse the work, so I am left to my own
>here.

You can always send them to RIMCO and get them completely rebuilt.
It's quite inexpensive, and getting them done on a proper rod machine
assures a matched set of rods with the same center to center distance.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------

Jim Adney wrote:
>
> On 28 Jul 2005 01:23:00 -0700 "Kuebel Guy" > wrote:
>
> >My problem here is that machine shops don't take small jobs, they
> >either do a full engine or refuse the work, so I am left to my own
> >here.
>
> You can always send them to RIMCO and get them completely rebuilt.
> It's quite inexpensive, and getting them done on a proper rod machine
> assures a matched set of rods with the same center to center distance.
>
> -
> -----------------------------------------------
> Jim Adney
> Madison, WI 53711 USA
> -----------------------------------------------

and all this work will be wasted if the cores had microscopic cracks in
them, like MOST stock rods do.
They'll work fine in a stock engine, but when you start demanding more
from them, they fail. And take the rest of the engine out with them.
They should at least be magnafluxed or x-rayed to inspect them for
cracks.

Carefully weigh the cost factors of reconditioning a set of old rods
against buying a set of new ones.
The scale will soon tip in favor of a new set that you should be able to
trust are good without questioning.

I'd sleep better at night knowing they were in perfect shape.

Jan

Sending the rods to an international (I am not in USA) shop its quite a
hazle.

I do use new VW rods, and is a stock engine the one I am rebuilding.
My problem is that they don't come with wrist pin bushings inserted. I
did insert 'em it by myself but they are too tight for the 22mm wrist
pin. I will ream them, already ordered a reamer.

This kind of rods stand 100K+ in a stock engine..I do understand they
are not good for performance engines.

cheers!

carles