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1975 Oldsmobile 98, 455ci engine fan / fan pulley questions



 
 
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  #1  
Old August 15th 05, 10:34 PM
Andrew Budwill
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Posts: n/a
Default 1975 Oldsmobile 98, 455ci engine fan / fan pulley questions

Greetings,

My friend has a 1975 Oldsmobile 98 with the 455. Recently I was
helping him replace the waterpump. We ran into a problem I am hoping
someone can help with.

When I started the work he already had the fan and fan pulley removed.
I proceeded in removing the waterpump. After installing the new
waterpump we went to put the fan pulley back on but ran into problems.
Imagine this, the waterpump bolts upto the block. On the front of the
waterpump 4 studs need to be threaded in. The pulley and fan look
like they slide onto the studs and are secured with nuts. The problem
we ran into is the fan pulley seems abnormally close to crank pulley.
So close in fact there is virtually no room between the two to
installs the belts. The second strange thing is the studs don't seem
long enough... After sliding the pulley and fan onto the studs there
are not enough threads available on the studs to secure the nuts to.

The reason we are replacing the waterpump is because the front part
where the studs thread into shattered and his fan blade flew off. I
am wondering if we are missing a part or perhaps are using the wrongs
studs.

Any advice or guidance is appreciated.

Regards,
Andrew
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  #2  
Old August 15th 05, 11:29 PM
sdlomi2
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Posts: n/a
Default


"Andrew Budwill" > wrote in message
...
> Greetings,
>
> My friend has a 1975 Oldsmobile 98 with the 455. Recently I was
> helping him replace the waterpump. We ran into a problem I am hoping
> someone can help with.
>
> When I started the work he already had the fan and fan pulley removed.
> I proceeded in removing the waterpump. After installing the new
> waterpump we went to put the fan pulley back on but ran into problems.
> Imagine this, the waterpump bolts upto the block. On the front of the
> waterpump 4 studs need to be threaded in. The pulley and fan look
> like they slide onto the studs and are secured with nuts. The problem
> we ran into is the fan pulley seems abnormally close to crank pulley.
> So close in fact there is virtually no room between the two to
> installs the belts. The second strange thing is the studs don't seem
> long enough... After sliding the pulley and fan onto the studs there
> are not enough threads available on the studs to secure the nuts to.
>
> The reason we are replacing the waterpump is because the front part
> where the studs thread into shattered and his fan blade flew off. I
> am wondering if we are missing a part or perhaps are using the wrongs
> studs.
>
> Any advice or guidance is appreciated.
>
> Regards,
> Andrew

Does a belt have to go between the 2 pulleys? Or does it encircle
both the pulleys? Some setups are quite close by design. Is the hollow
shaft in the fan binding on the pump 'stub' which is supposed to guide the
fan over it and flush against the front surface of the pump flange?Have the
studs been screwed in too far, like to where they exit the rear plane of the
flange? Flush to the rear surface of the flange is quite sufficient.
Bolts with lock washers sometimes (depending on clearance needed to
install a wrench) may be substituted--or longer studs in any case. At this
point, it's hard to say, but if the studs were too short when last
assembled, their coming free may be what caused the flange to shatter.
Check the fan carefully, as you don't want to use one that is bent and
out of balance.
HTH & good luck, s
FWIW AND IMO: That's a really strong engine you're working on--good for 300K
miles w/a couple of timing gear/chain sets, cleaning oil return holes under
the vc-gaskets a time or 2, and maybe replacing the pot-metal rocker pivots
once with quality metal ones!


  #3  
Old August 17th 05, 07:40 AM
Andy Budwill
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

"sdlomi2" > wrote in message
...
>
> "Andrew Budwill" > wrote in message
> ...
>> Greetings,
>>
>> My friend has a 1975 Oldsmobile 98 with the 455. Recently I was
>> helping him replace the waterpump. We ran into a problem I am hoping
>> someone can help with.
>>
>> When I started the work he already had the fan and fan pulley removed.
>> I proceeded in removing the waterpump. After installing the new
>> waterpump we went to put the fan pulley back on but ran into problems.
>> Imagine this, the waterpump bolts upto the block. On the front of the
>> waterpump 4 studs need to be threaded in. The pulley and fan look
>> like they slide onto the studs and are secured with nuts. The problem
>> we ran into is the fan pulley seems abnormally close to crank pulley.
>> So close in fact there is virtually no room between the two to
>> installs the belts. The second strange thing is the studs don't seem
>> long enough... After sliding the pulley and fan onto the studs there
>> are not enough threads available on the studs to secure the nuts to.
>>
>> The reason we are replacing the waterpump is because the front part
>> where the studs thread into shattered and his fan blade flew off. I
>> am wondering if we are missing a part or perhaps are using the wrongs
>> studs.
>>
>> Any advice or guidance is appreciated.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Andrew

> Does a belt have to go between the 2 pulleys? Or does it encircle
> both the pulleys? Some setups are quite close by design. Is the hollow
> shaft in the fan binding on the pump 'stub' which is supposed to guide the
> fan over it and flush against the front surface of the pump flange?Have
> the
> studs been screwed in too far, like to where they exit the rear plane of
> the
> flange? Flush to the rear surface of the flange is quite sufficient.
> Bolts with lock washers sometimes (depending on clearance needed to
> install a wrench) may be substituted--or longer studs in any case. At
> this
> point, it's hard to say, but if the studs were too short when last
> assembled, their coming free may be what caused the flange to shatter.
> Check the fan carefully, as you don't want to use one that is bent and
> out of balance.
> HTH & good luck, s
> FWIW AND IMO: That's a really strong engine you're working on--good for
> 300K
> miles w/a couple of timing gear/chain sets, cleaning oil return holes
> under
> the vc-gaskets a time or 2, and maybe replacing the pot-metal rocker
> pivots
> once with quality metal ones!
>


This gives me a lot to go on next time I am around his place taking a look,
thanks for the information.

Not sure if the belt goes between the two pulleys (doh!) the routing diagram
was missing. He took the belts off and assured me they went between the
pulleys though he may very well be wrong. I will have him purchase a manual
so we know for sure.

The studs were in fact screwed in to the point where they exited the rear
plane of the flange. It is okay not to have them threaded in all the way?
I was afraid this would cause them to unthread over time thus causing the
fan to potentially fly off.

I'm not familiar with these engines at all, I will have to pass along the
advice on keeping it alive to him, thanks!

Regards,
Andrew


  #4  
Old August 18th 05, 01:57 PM
sdlomi2
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Andy Budwill" > wrote in message
news:GZAMe.262$P34.149@okepread07...
> "sdlomi2" > wrote in message
> ...
> >
> > "Andrew Budwill" > wrote in message
> > ...
> >> Greetings,
> >>
> >> My friend has a 1975 Oldsmobile 98 with the 455. Recently I was
> >> helping him replace the waterpump. We ran into a problem I am hoping
> >> someone can help with.
> >>
> >> When I started the work he already had the fan and fan pulley removed.
> >> I proceeded in removing the waterpump. After installing the new
> >> waterpump we went to put the fan pulley back on but ran into problems.
> >> Imagine this, the waterpump bolts upto the block. On the front of the
> >> waterpump 4 studs need to be threaded in. The pulley and fan look
> >> like they slide onto the studs and are secured with nuts. The problem
> >> we ran into is the fan pulley seems abnormally close to crank pulley.
> >> So close in fact there is virtually no room between the two to
> >> installs the belts. The second strange thing is the studs don't seem
> >> long enough... After sliding the pulley and fan onto the studs there
> >> are not enough threads available on the studs to secure the nuts to.
> >>
> >> The reason we are replacing the waterpump is because the front part
> >> where the studs thread into shattered and his fan blade flew off. I
> >> am wondering if we are missing a part or perhaps are using the wrongs
> >> studs.
> >>
> >> Any advice or guidance is appreciated.
> >>
> >> Regards,
> >> Andrew

> > Does a belt have to go between the 2 pulleys? Or does it encircle
> > both the pulleys? Some setups are quite close by design. Is the hollow
> > shaft in the fan binding on the pump 'stub' which is supposed to guide

the
> > fan over it and flush against the front surface of the pump flange?Have
> > the
> > studs been screwed in too far, like to where they exit the rear plane of
> > the
> > flange? Flush to the rear surface of the flange is quite sufficient.
> > Bolts with lock washers sometimes (depending on clearance needed to
> > install a wrench) may be substituted--or longer studs in any case. At
> > this
> > point, it's hard to say, but if the studs were too short when last
> > assembled, their coming free may be what caused the flange to shatter.
> > Check the fan carefully, as you don't want to use one that is bent

and
> > out of balance.
> > HTH & good luck, s
> > FWIW AND IMO: That's a really strong engine you're working on--good for
> > 300K
> > miles w/a couple of timing gear/chain sets, cleaning oil return holes
> > under
> > the vc-gaskets a time or 2, and maybe replacing the pot-metal rocker
> > pivots
> > once with quality metal ones!
> >

>
> This gives me a lot to go on next time I am around his place taking a

look,
> thanks for the information.
>
> Not sure if the belt goes between the two pulleys (doh!) the routing

diagram
> was missing. He took the belts off and assured me they went between the
> pulleys though he may very well be wrong. I will have him purchase a

manual
> so we know for sure.
>
> The studs were in fact screwed in to the point where they exited the rear
> plane of the flange. It is okay not to have them threaded in all the way?
> I was afraid this would cause them to unthread over time thus causing the
> fan to potentially fly off.
>>>snip<<<

The lock washers, IMPORTANT THEY BE ON, keep it snug. Just screw them
in to where the end is flush w/the rear plane of the flange. Good luck, s


 




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