96 Golf coolant drain/fill

My lightly used 96 Golf (46K miles) is slowly losing coolant. Although the
system is claimed to be sealed without need for draining/refilling, I'm
shooting for 20 years of service from this car (virtually no repairs of any
kind needed thus far) so I think it is time to change the coolant and plug
the leak. My dealer sold me a gallon of VW/Audi coolant Part No. G 012
A8FA4 for $16. I have a series of questions:

1. There is no visible sign of leaking however I saw a NG suggestion saying
that a probable point of leakage is a plastic flange at the driver's end of
the cylinder head. Can anyone describe this more precisely so I know what
to buy?

2. The original coolant is green. I assume what I bought is what other NG
articles call G12. How carefully must I drain and flush before I can safely
refill with G12, i.e. is there any problem with a little residual green
fluid mixing with G12?

3. NG articles have mentioned G11. Why would I choose G11 or G12? Do I
need to take any of the "VW only" suggestions seriously or can I just
believe Prestone's claim that it is safe for all engines?

4. I have a Bentley manual that shows a connector pipe attached to the
bottom of the radiator housing with a retaining clip and O ring that is to
be removed along with a lower hose to be removed. I didn't find these parts
but I found a right angle rubber hose secured by two clamps. Do I remove
this hose to drain the radiator?

1- it's on the side of the head just above the transmission.
2-You can't mix G11 & G12 so unless you can get 100% out don't do the
conversion. There's just too many places for the coolant to lay. Besides
there's no advantage of switching to G12.
3-VW makes very good G11 coolant and I use it in all my non-VW vehicles!
4-Best way to do a coolant change is to remove the thermostat from just
above the power steering pump once it's removed. That way you will drain the
radiator and engine block. There's no good way to get the coolant out from
the heater core. See #2


"Raymond Cruz" > wrote in message
newsrBAd.23509$Ff3.14497@trndny04...
> My lightly used 96 Golf (46K miles) is slowly losing coolant. Although
> the
> system is claimed to be sealed without need for draining/refilling, I'm
> shooting for 20 years of service from this car (virtually no repairs of
> any
> kind needed thus far) so I think it is time to change the coolant and plug
> the leak. My dealer sold me a gallon of VW/Audi coolant Part No. G 012
> A8FA4 for $16. I have a series of questions:
>
> 1. There is no visible sign of leaking however I saw a NG suggestion
> saying
> that a probable point of leakage is a plastic flange at the driver's end
> of
> the cylinder head. Can anyone describe this more precisely so I know what
> to buy?
>
> 2. The original coolant is green. I assume what I bought is what other NG
> articles call G12. How carefully must I drain and flush before I can
> safely
> refill with G12, i.e. is there any problem with a little residual green
> fluid mixing with G12?
>
> 3. NG articles have mentioned G11. Why would I choose G11 or G12? Do I
> need to take any of the "VW only" suggestions seriously or can I just
> believe Prestone's claim that it is safe for all engines?
>
> 4. I have a Bentley manual that shows a connector pipe attached to the
> bottom of the radiator housing with a retaining clip and O ring that is to
> be removed along with a lower hose to be removed. I didn't find these
> parts
> but I found a right angle rubber hose secured by two clamps. Do I remove
> this hose to drain the radiator?
>
>

1- it's on the side of the head just above the transmission.
2-You can't mix G11 & G12 so unless you can get 100% out don't do the
conversion. There's just too many places for the coolant to lay. Besides
there's no advantage of switching to G12.
3-VW makes very good G11 coolant and I use it in all my non-VW vehicles!
4-Best way to do a coolant change is to remove the thermostat from just
above the power steering pump once it's removed. That way you will drain the
radiator and engine block. There's no good way to get the coolant out from
the heater core. See #2


"Raymond Cruz" > wrote in message
newsrBAd.23509$Ff3.14497@trndny04...
> My lightly used 96 Golf (46K miles) is slowly losing coolant. Although
> the
> system is claimed to be sealed without need for draining/refilling, I'm
> shooting for 20 years of service from this car (virtually no repairs of
> any
> kind needed thus far) so I think it is time to change the coolant and plug
> the leak. My dealer sold me a gallon of VW/Audi coolant Part No. G 012
> A8FA4 for $16. I have a series of questions:
>
> 1. There is no visible sign of leaking however I saw a NG suggestion
> saying
> that a probable point of leakage is a plastic flange at the driver's end
> of
> the cylinder head. Can anyone describe this more precisely so I know what
> to buy?
>
> 2. The original coolant is green. I assume what I bought is what other NG
> articles call G12. How carefully must I drain and flush before I can
> safely
> refill with G12, i.e. is there any problem with a little residual green
> fluid mixing with G12?
>
> 3. NG articles have mentioned G11. Why would I choose G11 or G12? Do I
> need to take any of the "VW only" suggestions seriously or can I just
> believe Prestone's claim that it is safe for all engines?
>
> 4. I have a Bentley manual that shows a connector pipe attached to the
> bottom of the radiator housing with a retaining clip and O ring that is to
> be removed along with a lower hose to be removed. I didn't find these
> parts
> but I found a right angle rubber hose secured by two clamps. Do I remove
> this hose to drain the radiator?
>
>

Other NG articles say G11 is blue but the original coolant in my 96 Golf is
green just like Prestone. If I get G11 do I need to worry about it mixing
with residual green stuff? Do you think what I see as green is really G11?
Alternatively suppose I drain, fill with water, drive a day and repeat for a
week (7 drain/refill cycles). Will that drain and dilute whatever was in
there originally sufficiently so that I can refill with whatever I choose?

RC

"Lost In Space" > wrote in message
...
> 1- it's on the side of the head just above the transmission.
> 2-You can't mix G11 & G12 so unless you can get 100% out don't do the
> conversion. There's just too many places for the coolant to lay. Besides
> there's no advantage of switching to G12.
> 3-VW makes very good G11 coolant and I use it in all my non-VW vehicles!
> 4-Best way to do a coolant change is to remove the thermostat from just
> above the power steering pump once it's removed. That way you will drain
the
> radiator and engine block. There's no good way to get the coolant out from
> the heater core. See #2
>
>
> "Raymond Cruz" > wrote in message
> newsrBAd.23509$Ff3.14497@trndny04...
> > My lightly used 96 Golf (46K miles) is slowly losing coolant. Although
> > the
> > system is claimed to be sealed without need for draining/refilling, I'm
> > shooting for 20 years of service from this car (virtually no repairs of
> > any
> > kind needed thus far) so I think it is time to change the coolant and
plug
> > the leak. My dealer sold me a gallon of VW/Audi coolant Part No. G 012
> > A8FA4 for $16. I have a series of questions:
> >
> > 1. There is no visible sign of leaking however I saw a NG suggestion
> > saying
> > that a probable point of leakage is a plastic flange at the driver's end
> > of
> > the cylinder head. Can anyone describe this more precisely so I know
what
> > to buy?
> >
> > 2. The original coolant is green. I assume what I bought is what other
NG
> > articles call G12. How carefully must I drain and flush before I can
> > safely
> > refill with G12, i.e. is there any problem with a little residual green
> > fluid mixing with G12?
> >
> > 3. NG articles have mentioned G11. Why would I choose G11 or G12? Do I
> > need to take any of the "VW only" suggestions seriously or can I just
> > believe Prestone's claim that it is safe for all engines?
> >
> > 4. I have a Bentley manual that shows a connector pipe attached to the
> > bottom of the radiator housing with a retaining clip and O ring that is
to
> > be removed along with a lower hose to be removed. I didn't find these
> > parts
> > but I found a right angle rubber hose secured by two clamps. Do I
remove
> > this hose to drain the radiator?
> >
> >
>
>

Other NG articles say G11 is blue but the original coolant in my 96 Golf is
green just like Prestone. If I get G11 do I need to worry about it mixing
with residual green stuff? Do you think what I see as green is really G11?
Alternatively suppose I drain, fill with water, drive a day and repeat for a
week (7 drain/refill cycles). Will that drain and dilute whatever was in
there originally sufficiently so that I can refill with whatever I choose?

RC

"Lost In Space" > wrote in message
...
> 1- it's on the side of the head just above the transmission.
> 2-You can't mix G11 & G12 so unless you can get 100% out don't do the
> conversion. There's just too many places for the coolant to lay. Besides
> there's no advantage of switching to G12.
> 3-VW makes very good G11 coolant and I use it in all my non-VW vehicles!
> 4-Best way to do a coolant change is to remove the thermostat from just
> above the power steering pump once it's removed. That way you will drain
the
> radiator and engine block. There's no good way to get the coolant out from
> the heater core. See #2
>
>
> "Raymond Cruz" > wrote in message
> newsrBAd.23509$Ff3.14497@trndny04...
> > My lightly used 96 Golf (46K miles) is slowly losing coolant. Although
> > the
> > system is claimed to be sealed without need for draining/refilling, I'm
> > shooting for 20 years of service from this car (virtually no repairs of
> > any
> > kind needed thus far) so I think it is time to change the coolant and
plug
> > the leak. My dealer sold me a gallon of VW/Audi coolant Part No. G 012
> > A8FA4 for $16. I have a series of questions:
> >
> > 1. There is no visible sign of leaking however I saw a NG suggestion
> > saying
> > that a probable point of leakage is a plastic flange at the driver's end
> > of
> > the cylinder head. Can anyone describe this more precisely so I know
what
> > to buy?
> >
> > 2. The original coolant is green. I assume what I bought is what other
NG
> > articles call G12. How carefully must I drain and flush before I can
> > safely
> > refill with G12, i.e. is there any problem with a little residual green
> > fluid mixing with G12?
> >
> > 3. NG articles have mentioned G11. Why would I choose G11 or G12? Do I
> > need to take any of the "VW only" suggestions seriously or can I just
> > believe Prestone's claim that it is safe for all engines?
> >
> > 4. I have a Bentley manual that shows a connector pipe attached to the
> > bottom of the radiator housing with a retaining clip and O ring that is
to
> > be removed along with a lower hose to be removed. I didn't find these
> > parts
> > but I found a right angle rubber hose secured by two clamps. Do I
remove
> > this hose to drain the radiator?
> >
> >
>
>

In article <%FGAd.14243$fe5.931@trndny06>,
Raymond Cruz > wrote:
>Other NG articles say G11 is blue but the original coolant in my 96 Golf is
>green just like Prestone. If I get G11 do I need to worry about it mixing
>with residual green stuff? Do you think what I see as green is really G11?
>Alternatively suppose I drain, fill with water, drive a day and repeat for a
>week (7 drain/refill cycles). Will that drain and dilute whatever was in
>there originally sufficiently so that I can refill with whatever I choose?

G11 is not compatible with the Green or G12. I switched from G11 to G12 on
my A3 by draining and flushing with water until it was clear. It took about
6 or 7 flushes. I then used G12 but soon realized that the G12 is more
evasive than G11 or the Green. The radiator seam started leaking so I had
to replace that. I also replaced the water pump and thermostat.


>
>RC
>
>"Lost In Space" > wrote in message
...
>> 1- it's on the side of the head just above the transmission.
>> 2-You can't mix G11 & G12 so unless you can get 100% out don't do the
>> conversion. There's just too many places for the coolant to lay. Besides
>> there's no advantage of switching to G12.
>> 3-VW makes very good G11 coolant and I use it in all my non-VW vehicles!
>> 4-Best way to do a coolant change is to remove the thermostat from just
>> above the power steering pump once it's removed. That way you will drain
>the
>> radiator and engine block. There's no good way to get the coolant out from
>> the heater core. See #2
>>
>>
>> "Raymond Cruz" > wrote in message
>> newsrBAd.23509$Ff3.14497@trndny04...
>> > My lightly used 96 Golf (46K miles) is slowly losing coolant. Although
>> > the
>> > system is claimed to be sealed without need for draining/refilling, I'm
>> > shooting for 20 years of service from this car (virtually no repairs of
>> > any
>> > kind needed thus far) so I think it is time to change the coolant and
>plug
>> > the leak. My dealer sold me a gallon of VW/Audi coolant Part No. G 012
>> > A8FA4 for $16. I have a series of questions:
>> >
>> > 1. There is no visible sign of leaking however I saw a NG suggestion
>> > saying
>> > that a probable point of leakage is a plastic flange at the driver's end
>> > of
>> > the cylinder head. Can anyone describe this more precisely so I know
>what
>> > to buy?
>> >
>> > 2. The original coolant is green. I assume what I bought is what other
>NG
>> > articles call G12. How carefully must I drain and flush before I can
>> > safely
>> > refill with G12, i.e. is there any problem with a little residual green
>> > fluid mixing with G12?
>> >
>> > 3. NG articles have mentioned G11. Why would I choose G11 or G12? Do I
>> > need to take any of the "VW only" suggestions seriously or can I just
>> > believe Prestone's claim that it is safe for all engines?
>> >
>> > 4. I have a Bentley manual that shows a connector pipe attached to the
>> > bottom of the radiator housing with a retaining clip and O ring that is
>to
>> > be removed along with a lower hose to be removed. I didn't find these
>> > parts
>> > but I found a right angle rubber hose secured by two clamps. Do I
>remove
>> > this hose to drain the radiator?
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>


--
Jeeps and dubs and everything's nice...

In article <%FGAd.14243$fe5.931@trndny06>,
Raymond Cruz > wrote:
>Other NG articles say G11 is blue but the original coolant in my 96 Golf is
>green just like Prestone. If I get G11 do I need to worry about it mixing
>with residual green stuff? Do you think what I see as green is really G11?
>Alternatively suppose I drain, fill with water, drive a day and repeat for a
>week (7 drain/refill cycles). Will that drain and dilute whatever was in
>there originally sufficiently so that I can refill with whatever I choose?

G11 is not compatible with the Green or G12. I switched from G11 to G12 on
my A3 by draining and flushing with water until it was clear. It took about
6 or 7 flushes. I then used G12 but soon realized that the G12 is more
evasive than G11 or the Green. The radiator seam started leaking so I had
to replace that. I also replaced the water pump and thermostat.


>
>RC
>
>"Lost In Space" > wrote in message
...
>> 1- it's on the side of the head just above the transmission.
>> 2-You can't mix G11 & G12 so unless you can get 100% out don't do the
>> conversion. There's just too many places for the coolant to lay. Besides
>> there's no advantage of switching to G12.
>> 3-VW makes very good G11 coolant and I use it in all my non-VW vehicles!
>> 4-Best way to do a coolant change is to remove the thermostat from just
>> above the power steering pump once it's removed. That way you will drain
>the
>> radiator and engine block. There's no good way to get the coolant out from
>> the heater core. See #2
>>
>>
>> "Raymond Cruz" > wrote in message
>> newsrBAd.23509$Ff3.14497@trndny04...
>> > My lightly used 96 Golf (46K miles) is slowly losing coolant. Although
>> > the
>> > system is claimed to be sealed without need for draining/refilling, I'm
>> > shooting for 20 years of service from this car (virtually no repairs of
>> > any
>> > kind needed thus far) so I think it is time to change the coolant and
>plug
>> > the leak. My dealer sold me a gallon of VW/Audi coolant Part No. G 012
>> > A8FA4 for $16. I have a series of questions:
>> >
>> > 1. There is no visible sign of leaking however I saw a NG suggestion
>> > saying
>> > that a probable point of leakage is a plastic flange at the driver's end
>> > of
>> > the cylinder head. Can anyone describe this more precisely so I know
>what
>> > to buy?
>> >
>> > 2. The original coolant is green. I assume what I bought is what other
>NG
>> > articles call G12. How carefully must I drain and flush before I can
>> > safely
>> > refill with G12, i.e. is there any problem with a little residual green
>> > fluid mixing with G12?
>> >
>> > 3. NG articles have mentioned G11. Why would I choose G11 or G12? Do I
>> > need to take any of the "VW only" suggestions seriously or can I just
>> > believe Prestone's claim that it is safe for all engines?
>> >
>> > 4. I have a Bentley manual that shows a connector pipe attached to the
>> > bottom of the radiator housing with a retaining clip and O ring that is
>to
>> > be removed along with a lower hose to be removed. I didn't find these
>> > parts
>> > but I found a right angle rubber hose secured by two clamps. Do I
>remove
>> > this hose to drain the radiator?
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>


--
Jeeps and dubs and everything's nice...

I believe G12A is available and is compatible with G11 and G12.
RGds
Alec

I believe G12A is available and is compatible with G11 and G12.
RGds
Alec

I've heard that if you use normal Anti-Freeze it will oxadize the engine...
i've seen many vw's where the engine look coroded on the outside and i've
ask vw about it and they told me that's what happens when people don't use
the VW Anti-Freeze.. any truth to this?

-Lee

"Raymond Cruz" > wrote in message
newsrBAd.23509$Ff3.14497@trndny04...
> My lightly used 96 Golf (46K miles) is slowly losing coolant. Although
> the
> system is claimed to be sealed without need for draining/refilling, I'm
> shooting for 20 years of service from this car (virtually no repairs of
> any
> kind needed thus far) so I think it is time to change the coolant and plug
> the leak. My dealer sold me a gallon of VW/Audi coolant Part No. G 012
> A8FA4 for $16. I have a series of questions:
>
> 1. There is no visible sign of leaking however I saw a NG suggestion
> saying
> that a probable point of leakage is a plastic flange at the driver's end
> of
> the cylinder head. Can anyone describe this more precisely so I know what
> to buy?
>
> 2. The original coolant is green. I assume what I bought is what other NG
> articles call G12. How carefully must I drain and flush before I can
> safely
> refill with G12, i.e. is there any problem with a little residual green
> fluid mixing with G12?
>
> 3. NG articles have mentioned G11. Why would I choose G11 or G12? Do I
> need to take any of the "VW only" suggestions seriously or can I just
> believe Prestone's claim that it is safe for all engines?
>
> 4. I have a Bentley manual that shows a connector pipe attached to the
> bottom of the radiator housing with a retaining clip and O ring that is to
> be removed along with a lower hose to be removed. I didn't find these
> parts
> but I found a right angle rubber hose secured by two clamps. Do I remove
> this hose to drain the radiator?
>
>