no oil in cylinder head

Well i guess i have to pull out the engine and remove the camshaft to
inspect if this is the reason. The manual i have does not show what the
bearing look like and how to remove it. I assume there is more than one
bearing? It does however say how to remove the camshaft . I guess i have to
take it out and inspect it and try to figure out if it is possible to
replace the bearings. If it looks to complicated or there is to much damage
i probably would replace the engine with one from a junkyard. They want
aprox. 1000$ for a used engine, but living in Norway it seems to costly to
get a rebuilt engine. Rebuilding the thing myself looks to complicated. I
would like to thank you all for your help and i will get back with the
result of this problem.

Torgeir
"Steve" > skrev i melding
...
> The camshaft (I assume thats what you mean by "camrod") spins in the
> bearing all the time. If the bearing has "turned," it is by definition
> turned in relation to the engine block.
>
>
> torgeir jensen wrote:
>
>> Lets see if i got this rigt. If the bearing has turned is that in
>> relation
>> to the crankcase or in relation to the camrod? Is the problem that a hole
>> in
>> the camrod and a hole in the bearng must be aligned or is it between the
>> crankcase and the bearing?
>>
>>
>> "damnnickname" > skrev i melding
>> lkaboutautos.com...
>>
>>>It has been a long time since I replaced a camshaft/bearing on that year
>>>vehicle, Im pretty sure the engine has to be pulled because the engine
>>>will not lower or raise high enough for clearance to pull the shaft out.
>>>
>>>Glenn Beasley
>>>Chrysler tech
>>>
>>
>>

Whoa there, let's not jump the gun just yet. We've all zeroed in on a
rotated cam bearing as the culprit, but there are a couple other
possibilities. I'm not intimately familiar with the 3.3 v6, but I
believe it oils the rockers exactly like the pre-1992 Chrysler v8s did:
oil flows from the cam bearing, up through a passage in the block,
through the head gasket and into a passage in the head that leads to one
of the rocker shaft pedestals, around the rocker shaft bolt that goes
into that pedestal, and thus into the rocker shaft.

It is possible that the rocker shaft is incorrectly installed. The hole
that the hold-down bolt passes through on the rocker shaft pedestal that
contains the oil passage is supposed to be oversized on one side of the
rocker shaft, giving clearance around the bolt so that the oil can flow
into the shaft- if the shaft was ever removed and re-installed
upside-down, oil flow will be blocked or severely restricted. Also, if
the head gasket isn't properly aligned, or for some reason the oil
passage hole wasn't punched out in the head gasket, oil flow will be
blocked (I always check this hole on V8 head gaskets to make sure its
fully open before I install them. And finally, the passage leading from
the cam up through the block and head to the rocker pedestal is fairly
small diameter and might be blocked by some type of debris. its hard to
imagine this because only filtered oil *should* make it that far, but if
it was ever run with a badly clogged oil filter so that the bypass valve
lifted, it is possible.




> Well i guess i have to pull out the engine and remove the camshaft to
> inspect if this is the reason. The manual i have does not show what the
> bearing look like and how to remove it. I assume there is more than one
> bearing? It does however say how to remove the camshaft . I guess i have to
> take it out and inspect it and try to figure out if it is possible to
> replace the bearings. If it looks to complicated or there is to much damage
> i probably would replace the engine with one from a junkyard. They want
> aprox. 1000$ for a used engine, but living in Norway it seems to costly to
> get a rebuilt engine. Rebuilding the thing myself looks to complicated. I
> would like to thank you all for your help and i will get back with the
> result of this problem.
>
> Torgeir
> "Steve" > skrev i melding
> ...
>
>>The camshaft (I assume thats what you mean by "camrod") spins in the
>>bearing all the time. If the bearing has "turned," it is by definition
>>turned in relation to the engine block.
>>
>>
>>torgeir jensen wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Lets see if i got this rigt. If the bearing has turned is that in
>>>relation
>>>to the crankcase or in relation to the camrod? Is the problem that a hole
>>>in
>>>the camrod and a hole in the bearng must be aligned or is it between the
>>>crankcase and the bearing?
>>>
>>>
>>>"damnnickname" > skrev i melding
>>>news:24f81868dc5f2a5f37b2a947483a3cd4@localhost .talkaboutautos.com...
>>>
>>>
>>>>It has been a long time since I replaced a camshaft/bearing on that year
>>>>vehicle, Im pretty sure the engine has to be pulled because the engine
>>>>will not lower or raise high enough for clearance to pull the shaft out.
>>>>
>>>>Glenn Beasley
>>>>Chrysler tech
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>

On Fri, 25 Mar 2005, torgeir jensen wrote:

> Well i guess i have to pull out the engine and remove the camshaft to
> inspect if this is the reason. The manual i have does not show what the
> bearing look like and how to remove it.

That's because you haven't got the correct manual. You really need a
FACTORY shop manual.

"Daniel J. Stern" > wrote in message
n.umich.edu...
> On Fri, 25 Mar 2005, torgeir jensen wrote:
>
> > Well i guess i have to pull out the engine and remove the camshaft to
> > inspect if this is the reason. The manual i have does not show what the
> > bearing look like and how to remove it.
>
> That's because you haven't got the correct manual. You really need a
> FACTORY shop manual.

Ummmm I wouldn't pull the engine just yet, the cylinder oil passage could be
stopped up, since you know the head is bad, why not remove it, then crank
the engine over to see if you have oil being pumped up thru the oil galley.
if not.... then take it from there

Glenn Beasley
Chrysler Tech

I think i will do just that.

Dont know where i would get hold of the original factory shop manual. One
thing i am wondering about and probably soon will find out is how to replace
those bearings. If the cam has to be pulled out from that hole and the the
bearings are mounted on the engine block will i then be able to get to the
bearings from below the intake manifold? Over the weekend i will dig into
this problem. Cylinder head goes off first and then if no luck i will take
out the engine. That part is well explained in the book i have.
I would also like to say that i am surprised and also very happy that
complete strangers to me are taking the time to provide good advise like
these.

Torgeir

> Ummmm I wouldn't pull the engine just yet, the cylinder oil passage could
> be
> stopped up, since you know the head is bad, why not remove it, then crank
> the engine over to see if you have oil being pumped up thru the oil
> galley.
> if not.... then take it from there
>
> Glenn Beasley
> Chrysler Tech
>
>

On Sat, 26 Mar 2005, torgeir jensen wrote:

> Dont know where i would get hold of the original factory shop manual.

eBay.

"torgeir jensen" > wrote in
:

>
> I think i will do just that.
>
> Dont know where i would get hold of the original factory shop manual.
>

This is a site you can get used factory service manuals from. It was posted
by someone in this group, he semms to have a large selection. He will email
you a price and order form. HTH

On Sat, 26 Mar 2005, tango wrote:

> > Dont know where i would get hold of the original factory shop manual.

> This is a site you can get used factory service manuals from. It was
> posted by someone in this group, he semms to have a large selection. He
> will email you a price and order form. HTH

>

Oh, wow. That's gotta be Doug Vogel. I was buying manuals and literature
for him 17 years ago!

(clickety click, google on ) Yep, that's him.

Wonder whatever happened to some of my other old sources. Jim Lungwitz
usually had excellent prices...and there was a guy in PA...Auto's
Literature Shoppe, but I can't remember the guy's name. He had stuff
NOBODY else had.

Then there's the guy in Richmond, BC, whose contact info I've been trying
to find lately. Lynch, I think his name was.

Bah. My memory ain't what it used to be, as it seems.

torgeir jensen wrote:

> I think i will do just that.
>
> Dont know where i would get hold of the original factory shop manual. One
> thing i am wondering about and probably soon will find out is how to replace
> those bearings. If the cam has to be pulled out from that hole and the the
> bearings are mounted on the engine block will i then be able to get to the
> bearings from below the intake manifold?

Cam bearings require a special tool to install. They are not split like
crankshaft and connecting rod bearings, but have to be installed onto a
special mandrel that keeps them round while pressing them into the
block. They're tapered front-to-rear (or rear-to-front, I forget which)
so that the tool can pass through all the bearings:

http://www.frontline-equip.com/bhjtools/Cambearing.html

If the bearing is rotated in the block, the best bet is to let a machine
shop pop the new bearings in. Shouldn't take them long- a lot less time
than it would take you, and if you're like me you'd probably ruin a
bearing or two along the way up the learning curve... ;-/

If there is no oil flowing after cylinder head is removed i think i will stop there and try to find a used engine and replace it. Engine has 320 000 km on it and i figure the metal missing from the rockerarm shaft must have gone somwhere. The inside of the cylinder head has a copper like color so it must have been very hot there. One problem though. Removed the exhaust manifold bolts but one bolt was very long with treads all the way out and it had a nut with an alternator mount on it. In other words no head on the bolt. Can not figure out how to remove it. The other bolts with a 10 mm head was very hard to loosen and i figure this is not going to be easy. I will try and put 2 nuts on the bolt and try to lock them to each other but i am sceptical. Any special tool for this or a pair of pliers?
>
> Cam bearings require a special tool to install. They are not split like
> crankshaft and connecting rod bearings, but have to be installed onto a
> special mandrel that keeps them round while pressing them into the
> block. They're tapered front-to-rear (or rear-to-front, I forget which)
> so that the tool can pass through all the bearings:
>
> http://www.frontline-equip.com/bhjtools/Cambearing.html
>
> If the bearing is rotated in the block, the best bet is to let a machine
> shop pop the new bearings in. Shouldn't take them long- a lot less time
> than it would take you, and if you're like me you'd probably ruin a
> bearing or two along the way up the learning curve... ;-/
>