no oil in cylinder head

"torgeir jensen" > wrote in message ...
If there is no oil flowing after cylinder head is removed i think i will stop there and try to find a used engine and replace it. Engine has 320 000 km on it and i figure the metal missing from the rockerarm shaft must have gone somwhere. The inside of the cylinder head has a copper like color so it must have been very hot there. One problem though. Removed the exhaust manifold bolts but one bolt was very long with treads all the way out and it had a nut with an alternator mount on it. In other words no head on the bolt

. Can not figure out how to remove it

It is a torx head bolt, must of the time you have to use a stud remover or vise grips to remove that bolt

. The other bolts with a 10 mm head was very hard to loosen and i figure this is not going to be easy. I will try and put 2 nuts on the bolt and try to lock them to each other but i am sceptical. Any special tool for this or a pair of pliers?
>
> Cam bearings require a special tool to install. They are not split like
> crankshaft and connecting rod bearings, but have to be installed onto a
> special mandrel that keeps them round while pressing them into the
> block. They're tapered front-to-rear (or rear-to-front, I forget which)
> so that the tool can pass through all the bearings:
>
> http://www.frontline-equip.com/bhjtools/Cambearing.html
>
> If the bearing is rotated in the block, the best bet is to let a machine
> shop pop the new bearings in. Shouldn't take them long- a lot less time
> than it would take you, and if you're like me you'd probably ruin a
> bearing or two along the way up the learning curve... ;-/
>

torgeir jensen wrote:

>If there is no oil flowing after cylinder head is removed i think i
> will stop there and try to find a used engine

Can you identify the hole where the oil feed SHOULD be? Can you insert a
fine wire all the way down that hole and see if you encounter any
resistance before a hard "stop" that would be the camshaft (or the back
of the bearing, if the bearing is rotated). If its plugged with sludge,
you still might be able to clear it.


> Removed the exhaust manifold bolts but one bolt was very long with
> treads all the way out and it had a nut with an alternator mount on it.
> In other words no head on the bolt.

Its a "stud" not a bolt.

> Can not figure out how to remove it.
> The other bolts with a 10 mm head was very hard to loosen and i figure
> this is not going to be easy. I will try and put 2 nuts on the bolt and
> try to lock them to each other but i am sceptical.

That's the best way to proceed.

Rod camrod shaft bolt. Sorry I live in Norway. Worked in the US from
1986-1989 but my language skill is not what it used to be, Sorry bear with
me. Anyway Head has 4 "towers" which holds the rocker shaft. In one of them
there is a hole in adition to the bolt hole. I figure this must be where the
oil i supposed to come up into the rocker shaft. Inserted a piece of
plastic"Fishing line"(again bear with me). It went down aprox 4-5 cm and
then it felt like it tried to go around a corner. If i can get the "stud"
off tomorrow i will squirt some oil in the hole and see if it gets trough.
Since parts for this car is priced way cheaper in the US than in Norway i
checked with two places in the US. One of them said this engine is different
in europe and parts ordered from him would definatly not fit in a european
version. Another parts dealer said "sure it will fit, i ship to europe al
the time". Is one of them lying to me?


Torgeir.

"Steve" > skrev i melding
...
> torgeir jensen wrote:
>
> >If there is no oil flowing after cylinder head is removed i think i
> > will stop there and try to find a used engine
>
> Can you identify the hole where the oil feed SHOULD be? Can you insert a
> fine wire all the way down that hole and see if you encounter any
> resistance before a hard "stop" that would be the camshaft (or the back of
> the bearing, if the bearing is rotated). If its plugged with sludge, you
> still might be able to clear it.
>
>
>> Removed the exhaust manifold bolts but one bolt was very long with treads
>> all the way out and it had a nut with an alternator mount on it. In other
>> words no head on the bolt.
>
> Its a "stud" not a bolt.
>
>> Can not figure out how to remove it. The other bolts with a 10 mm head
>> was very hard to loosen and i figure this is not going to be easy. I will
>> try and put 2 nuts on the bolt and try to lock them to each other but i
>> am sceptical.
>
> That's the best way to proceed.
>
>

torgeir jensen wrote:

I understand ok- I guess I was being unclear myself. Apologies for that!

I was talking about the hole in the engine block where the oil comes up
from the cam shaft and feeds (through the head gasket) into the cylinder
head. When the head is bolted onto the block, that hole will line up
with the hole in the head that leads to one of the 4 "towers" (rocker
shaft pedestals).

In other words, the test I was interested in seeing was whether you can
put your plastic fishing line down into the engine block all the way to
the point where that oil gallery reaches the cam bearing.


> Rod camrod shaft bolt. Sorry I live in Norway. Worked in the US from
> 1986-1989 but my language skill is not what it used to be, Sorry bear with
> me. Anyway Head has 4 "towers" which holds the rocker shaft. In one of them
> there is a hole in adition to the bolt hole. I figure this must be where the
> oil i supposed to come up into the rocker shaft. Inserted a piece of
> plastic"Fishing line"(again bear with me). It went down aprox 4-5 cm and
> then it felt like it tried to go around a corner. If i can get the "stud"
> off tomorrow i will squirt some oil in the hole and see if it gets trough.
> Since parts for this car is priced way cheaper in the US than in Norway i
> checked with two places in the US. One of them said this engine is different
> in europe and parts ordered from him would definatly not fit in a european
> version. Another parts dealer said "sure it will fit, i ship to europe al
> the time". Is one of them lying to me?
>
>
> Torgeir.
>
> "Steve" > skrev i melding
> ...
>
>>torgeir jensen wrote:
>>
>>
>>>If there is no oil flowing after cylinder head is removed i think i
>>>will stop there and try to find a used engine
>>
>>Can you identify the hole where the oil feed SHOULD be? Can you insert a
>>fine wire all the way down that hole and see if you encounter any
>>resistance before a hard "stop" that would be the camshaft (or the back of
>>the bearing, if the bearing is rotated). If its plugged with sludge, you
>>still might be able to clear it.
>>
>>
>>
>>>Removed the exhaust manifold bolts but one bolt was very long with treads
>>>all the way out and it had a nut with an alternator mount on it. In other
>>>words no head on the bolt.
>>
>>Its a "stud" not a bolt.
>>
>>
>>>Can not figure out how to remove it. The other bolts with a 10 mm head
>>>was very hard to loosen and i figure this is not going to be easy. I will
>>>try and put 2 nuts on the bolt and try to lock them to each other but i
>>>am sceptical.
>>
>>That's the best way to proceed.
>>
>>
>
>
>

Well cylinder head is now off and still no oil. Put a thin screwdriver dovn
the hole and it meets metal at an angle of about 45 degrees about 7 cm down
the hole.. It is either the cam otself or the camshaft. Strange thing. car
has about 330 000 km on it and still i can se the honing on the cylinder
walls and no edge on the wall at the top. Engine goes out next week and i
will take it to a shop to change the bearings.


Torgeir

Lot of misspelling here. I meant "The camshaft itself or the bearing". By
the way is it best to remove engine and transmission in one piece or leave
transmission in the car?

Torgeir
"torgeir jensen" > skrev i melding
...
> Well cylinder head is now off and still no oil. Put a thin screwdriver
> dovn the hole and it meets metal at an angle of about 45 degrees about 7
> cm down the hole.. It is either the cam otself or the camshaft. Strange
> thing. car has about 330 000 km on it and still i can se the honing on the
> cylinder walls and no edge on the wall at the top. Engine goes out next
> week and i will take it to a shop to change the bearings.
>
>
> Torgeir
>

"torgeir jensen" > wrote in message
...
> Well cylinder head is now off and still no oil. Put a thin screwdriver
dovn
> the hole and it meets metal at an angle of about 45 degrees about 7 cm
down
> the hole.. It is either the cam otself or the camshaft. Strange thing. car
> has about 330 000 km on it and still i can se the honing on the cylinder
> walls and no edge on the wall at the top. Engine goes out next week and i
> will take it to a shop to change the bearings.
>
>
> Torgeir
>
The hone marks are always there on these newer engines because the rings are
not as hard as the old engines were, they don't wear down the
cylinders.That's why you have no cyl ridge at the top either. That's also
why these engines will burn more oil then the older engines.... its all
about emissions.. if you crank the engine over and see no oil coming up at
this point, more then likely the bearing spun

Well cam is out and is worn out. New cam and bearings. New rocker shaft and
rocker arms and pushrods. Special tool required to replace cam bearings and
engine has high mileage. I guess option is rebuildt engine or used engine
from junkyard? Does anybody know if the 3.3 litre changed with new model in
1995/96 or can i use engine from newer cars?

Torgeir