96 SL-1 stumbles for a few minutes

Hi,
I have a 1996 SL-1 manual with 120,000 miles on it. For about the
first 5 minutes most mornings, it stumbles under medium load. Idles
ok. If revved above 3500, it runs ok. But, when cruising down the road
at 2000-2500 rpm, it will start to buck like crazy. I just downshift
and drive at a higher rpm for a while. After about 5 minutes, it goes
away. I have recently replaced the plugs, plug wires, fuel filter and
engine coolant temp sensor. It rarely throws a code (unless I let it
buck a lot) and if it does, the code tells me I have a cylinder
misfire (not always the same cylinder). It doesn't seem to do it as
much if it the ambient temp is above 80F. I only have a code reader,
not a real scan tool, so I can't check sensors, etc. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Buster

Hey Buster -
I think your problem is your fuel pump. A have a 95 that
occasionally acts this way too. (It began acting a lot worse after I
ran it completely out of gas and then had a heck of a time getting it
to run again - I've heard more than once that a fuel pump problem can
be aggravated by running it dry.) Sometimes it seems worse after
making a left turn.

Unfortunately when I tried to borrow a fuel pressure test guage at
AutoZone - it turned out they only had them for sale - not for loaning.
Darn thing was over $80.

Theres another guy that posts on this group and says he had a problem
for over 2 years before he finally got to the real source of the
problem.

Not being completely sure - I'm kindof waiting for mine to give out
completely (if that's what it is).
-WAv

Buster wrote:
> Hi,
> I have a 1996 SL-1 manual with 120,000 miles on it. For about the
> first 5 minutes most mornings, it stumbles under medium load. Idles
> ok. If revved above 3500, it runs ok. But, when cruising down the road
> at 2000-2500 rpm, it will start to buck like crazy. I just downshift
> and drive at a higher rpm for a while. After about 5 minutes, it goes
> away. I have recently replaced the plugs, plug wires, fuel filter and
> engine coolant temp sensor. It rarely throws a code (unless I let it
> buck a lot) and if it does, the code tells me I have a cylinder
> misfire (not always the same cylinder). It doesn't seem to do it as
> much if it the ambient temp is above 80F. I only have a code reader,
> not a real scan tool, so I can't check sensors, etc. Any ideas?
> Thanks,
> Buster

Thanks for the tip. I've never run my tank dry, but it is 10 years
old. I'll check it out.
Buster
On 28 Jul 2006 00:02:10 -0700, "wavy" > wrote:

>Hey Buster -
>I think your problem is your fuel pump. A have a 95 that
>occasionally acts this way too. (It began acting a lot worse after I
>ran it completely out of gas and then had a heck of a time getting it
>to run again - I've heard more than once that a fuel pump problem can
>be aggravated by running it dry.) Sometimes it seems worse after
>making a left turn.
>
>Unfortunately when I tried to borrow a fuel pressure test guage at
>AutoZone - it turned out they only had them for sale - not for loaning.
> Darn thing was over $80.
>
>Theres another guy that posts on this group and says he had a problem
>for over 2 years before he finally got to the real source of the
>problem.
>
>Not being completely sure - I'm kindof waiting for mine to give out
>completely (if that's what it is).
>-WAv
>
>Buster wrote:
>> Hi,
>> I have a 1996 SL-1 manual with 120,000 miles on it. For about the
>> first 5 minutes most mornings, it stumbles under medium load. Idles
>> ok. If revved above 3500, it runs ok. But, when cruising down the road
>> at 2000-2500 rpm, it will start to buck like crazy. I just downshift
>> and drive at a higher rpm for a while. After about 5 minutes, it goes
>> away. I have recently replaced the plugs, plug wires, fuel filter and
>> engine coolant temp sensor. It rarely throws a code (unless I let it
>> buck a lot) and if it does, the code tells me I have a cylinder
>> misfire (not always the same cylinder). It doesn't seem to do it as
>> much if it the ambient temp is above 80F. I only have a code reader,
>> not a real scan tool, so I can't check sensors, etc. Any ideas?
>> Thanks,
>> Buster

On Fri, 28 Jul 2006 01:45:15 GMT, Buster > wrote:

>Hi,
>I have a 1996 SL-1 manual with 120,000 miles on it. For about the
>first 5 minutes most mornings, it stumbles under medium load. Idles
>ok. If revved above 3500, it runs ok. But, when cruising down the road
>at 2000-2500 rpm, it will start to buck like crazy. I just downshift
>and drive at a higher rpm for a while. After about 5 minutes, it goes
>away. I have recently replaced the plugs, plug wires, fuel filter and
>engine coolant temp sensor. It rarely throws a code (unless I let it
>buck a lot) and if it does, the code tells me I have a cylinder
>misfire (not always the same cylinder). It doesn't seem to do it as
>much if it the ambient temp is above 80F. I only have a code reader,
>not a real scan tool, so I can't check sensors, etc. Any ideas?
>Thanks,
>Buster

My 97SL2 had problems.....

This the process that seemed to reduce and later elminate the
stalling, rough idling, and spurtering.

1. I cleaned the throttle body.
2. Changed the Coolant Temperature Sensor.
3. Changed plugs and wires.
4. many bottles of Fuel injector cleaners.
5. Later, had the fuel pump replaced(Saturn finally found out it was
defective).

1-4 I did myself, #5 was costly. So far this is the first summer
without stalls, rough starts, and sputtering.

So from what you said, and what I did, it sounds like you should have
your fuel pump checked. You might have a problem with it.

Sorry.

later,

tom @ www.Consolidated-Loans.info

On Fri, 28 Jul 2006 12:27:00 GMT, Buster > wrote:

>Thanks for the tip. I've never run my tank dry, but it is 10 years
>old. I'll check it out.


Try replacing fuel filter first.
-----------------
The SnoMan
www.thesnoman.com

New fuel filter 3 weeks ago. Keep in mind, this only occurs for the
first 5-10 minutes in the morning. After that it runs fine.
Buster
On Fri, 28 Jul 2006 19:12:40 GMT, SnoMan > wrote:

>On Fri, 28 Jul 2006 12:27:00 GMT, Buster > wrote:
>
>>Thanks for the tip. I've never run my tank dry, but it is 10 years
>>old. I'll check it out.
>
>
>Try replacing fuel filter first.
>-----------------
>The SnoMan
>www.thesnoman.com

Would a bad fuel pump only act up for a few minutes in the morning?
Problem doesn't recur until next day. Car has new ECT, plugs, wires
and fuel filter. Will try cleaning the throttle body.
Buster
On Fri, 28 Jul 2006 13:36:30 -0400, Tom The Great >
wrote:

>On Fri, 28 Jul 2006 01:45:15 GMT, Buster > wrote:
>
>>Hi,
>>I have a 1996 SL-1 manual with 120,000 miles on it. For about the
>>first 5 minutes most mornings, it stumbles under medium load. Idles
>>ok. If revved above 3500, it runs ok. But, when cruising down the road
>>at 2000-2500 rpm, it will start to buck like crazy. I just downshift
>>and drive at a higher rpm for a while. After about 5 minutes, it goes
>>away. I have recently replaced the plugs, plug wires, fuel filter and
>>engine coolant temp sensor. It rarely throws a code (unless I let it
>>buck a lot) and if it does, the code tells me I have a cylinder
>>misfire (not always the same cylinder). It doesn't seem to do it as
>>much if it the ambient temp is above 80F. I only have a code reader,
>>not a real scan tool, so I can't check sensors, etc. Any ideas?
>>Thanks,
>>Buster
>
>My 97SL2 had problems.....
>
>This the process that seemed to reduce and later elminate the
>stalling, rough idling, and spurtering.
>
>1. I cleaned the throttle body.
>2. Changed the Coolant Temperature Sensor.
>3. Changed plugs and wires.
>4. many bottles of Fuel injector cleaners.
>5. Later, had the fuel pump replaced(Saturn finally found out it was
>defective).
>
>1-4 I did myself, #5 was costly. So far this is the first summer
>without stalls, rough starts, and sputtering.
>
>So from what you said, and what I did, it sounds like you should have
>your fuel pump checked. You might have a problem with it.
>
>Sorry.
>
>later,
>
>tom @ www.Consolidated-Loans.info

I have a 95SL2 that had somewhat of the same problem at aprox. 90,000mi.
Turned out to be a sticking EGR Valve. When the symptoms got real bad it
finally set a Code 32 (I believe) (EGR System Failure). Replaced the EGR
valve and no other problems. Did it again at aprox. 180,000mi. Same
symptoms, same fix.
Something you might look into.
EGR Valve not cheap ($105) at AutoZone.

Jerry


"Buster" > wrote in message
...
> Would a bad fuel pump only act up for a few minutes in the morning?
> Problem doesn't recur until next day. Car has new ECT, plugs, wires
> and fuel filter. Will try cleaning the throttle body.
> Buster
> On Fri, 28 Jul 2006 13:36:30 -0400, Tom The Great >
> wrote:
>
> >On Fri, 28 Jul 2006 01:45:15 GMT, Buster > wrote:
> >
> >>Hi,
> >>I have a 1996 SL-1 manual with 120,000 miles on it. For about the
> >>first 5 minutes most mornings, it stumbles under medium load. Idles
> >>ok. If revved above 3500, it runs ok. But, when cruising down the road
> >>at 2000-2500 rpm, it will start to buck like crazy. I just downshift
> >>and drive at a higher rpm for a while. After about 5 minutes, it goes
> >>away. I have recently replaced the plugs, plug wires, fuel filter and
> >>engine coolant temp sensor. It rarely throws a code (unless I let it
> >>buck a lot) and if it does, the code tells me I have a cylinder
> >>misfire (not always the same cylinder). It doesn't seem to do it as
> >>much if it the ambient temp is above 80F. I only have a code reader,
> >>not a real scan tool, so I can't check sensors, etc. Any ideas?
> >>Thanks,
> >>Buster
> >
> >My 97SL2 had problems.....
> >
> >This the process that seemed to reduce and later elminate the
> >stalling, rough idling, and spurtering.
> >
> >1. I cleaned the throttle body.
> >2. Changed the Coolant Temperature Sensor.
> >3. Changed plugs and wires.
> >4. many bottles of Fuel injector cleaners.
> >5. Later, had the fuel pump replaced(Saturn finally found out it was
> >defective).
> >
> >1-4 I did myself, #5 was costly. So far this is the first summer
> >without stalls, rough starts, and sputtering.
> >
> >So from what you said, and what I did, it sounds like you should have
> >your fuel pump checked. You might have a problem with it.
> >
> >Sorry.
> >
> >later,
> >
> >tom @ www.Consolidated-Loans.info

I have a 95SL2 that had somewhat of the same problem at aprox. 90,000mi.
Turned out to be a sticking EGR Valve. When the symptoms got real bad it
finally set a Code 32 (I believe) (EGR System Failure). Replaced the EGR
valve and no other problems. Did it again at aprox. 180,000mi. Same
symptoms, same fix.
Something you might look into.
EGR Valve not cheap ($105) at AutoZone.

Jerry


"Buster" > wrote in message
...
> Would a bad fuel pump only act up for a few minutes in the morning?
> Problem doesn't recur until next day. Car has new ECT, plugs, wires
> and fuel filter. Will try cleaning the throttle body.
> Buster
> On Fri, 28 Jul 2006 13:36:30 -0400, Tom The Great >
> wrote:
>
> >On Fri, 28 Jul 2006 01:45:15 GMT, Buster > wrote:
> >
> >>Hi,
> >>I have a 1996 SL-1 manual with 120,000 miles on it. For about the
> >>first 5 minutes most mornings, it stumbles under medium load. Idles
> >>ok. If revved above 3500, it runs ok. But, when cruising down the road
> >>at 2000-2500 rpm, it will start to buck like crazy. I just downshift
> >>and drive at a higher rpm for a while. After about 5 minutes, it goes
> >>away. I have recently replaced the plugs, plug wires, fuel filter and
> >>engine coolant temp sensor. It rarely throws a code (unless I let it
> >>buck a lot) and if it does, the code tells me I have a cylinder
> >>misfire (not always the same cylinder). It doesn't seem to do it as
> >>much if it the ambient temp is above 80F. I only have a code reader,
> >>not a real scan tool, so I can't check sensors, etc. Any ideas?
> >>Thanks,
> >>Buster
> >
> >My 97SL2 had problems.....
> >
> >This the process that seemed to reduce and later elminate the
> >stalling, rough idling, and spurtering.
> >
> >1. I cleaned the throttle body.
> >2. Changed the Coolant Temperature Sensor.
> >3. Changed plugs and wires.
> >4. many bottles of Fuel injector cleaners.
> >5. Later, had the fuel pump replaced(Saturn finally found out it was
> >defective).
> >
> >1-4 I did myself, #5 was costly. So far this is the first summer
> >without stalls, rough starts, and sputtering.
> >
> >So from what you said, and what I did, it sounds like you should have
> >your fuel pump checked. You might have a problem with it.
> >
> >Sorry.
> >
> >later,
> >
> >tom @ www.Consolidated-Loans.info

I have a 95SL2 that had somewhat of the same problem at aprox. 90,000mi.
Turned out to be a sticking EGR Valve. When the symptoms got real bad it
finally set a Code 32 (I believe) (EGR System Failure). Replaced the EGR
valve and no other problems. Did it again at aprox. 180,000mi. Same
symptoms, same fix.
Something you might look into.
EGR Valve not cheap ($105) at AutoZone.

Jerry


"Buster" > wrote in message
...
> Would a bad fuel pump only act up for a few minutes in the morning?
> Problem doesn't recur until next day. Car has new ECT, plugs, wires
> and fuel filter. Will try cleaning the throttle body.
> Buster
> On Fri, 28 Jul 2006 13:36:30 -0400, Tom The Great >
> wrote:
>
> >On Fri, 28 Jul 2006 01:45:15 GMT, Buster > wrote:
> >
> >>Hi,
> >>I have a 1996 SL-1 manual with 120,000 miles on it. For about the
> >>first 5 minutes most mornings, it stumbles under medium load. Idles
> >>ok. If revved above 3500, it runs ok. But, when cruising down the road
> >>at 2000-2500 rpm, it will start to buck like crazy. I just downshift
> >>and drive at a higher rpm for a while. After about 5 minutes, it goes
> >>away. I have recently replaced the plugs, plug wires, fuel filter and
> >>engine coolant temp sensor. It rarely throws a code (unless I let it
> >>buck a lot) and if it does, the code tells me I have a cylinder
> >>misfire (not always the same cylinder). It doesn't seem to do it as
> >>much if it the ambient temp is above 80F. I only have a code reader,
> >>not a real scan tool, so I can't check sensors, etc. Any ideas?
> >>Thanks,
> >>Buster
> >
> >My 97SL2 had problems.....
> >
> >This the process that seemed to reduce and later elminate the
> >stalling, rough idling, and spurtering.
> >
> >1. I cleaned the throttle body.
> >2. Changed the Coolant Temperature Sensor.
> >3. Changed plugs and wires.
> >4. many bottles of Fuel injector cleaners.
> >5. Later, had the fuel pump replaced(Saturn finally found out it was
> >defective).
> >
> >1-4 I did myself, #5 was costly. So far this is the first summer
> >without stalls, rough starts, and sputtering.
> >
> >So from what you said, and what I did, it sounds like you should have
> >your fuel pump checked. You might have a problem with it.
> >
> >Sorry.
> >
> >later,
> >
> >tom @ www.Consolidated-Loans.info