Serpentine Belt -- Part Number?

Hello, just purchased a new serpentine belt for my 1998 Explorer EB, V8
from one of my local Ford dealers. Now that I'm home I noticed a slight
difference in the Ford part numbers and wonder if I purchased the
correct belt?

The old belt on my truck has the part number F77E-8620-PA and the new
belt part number is F77Z-8620-PB. My Ford Technical Service Publication
CD indicates the part number 8620, but does not mention the F77E/Z or
the PA/B. Before I go removing the old belt I want to be sure I have
the correct replacement.

Thank you,

Steven

You could always do what the pros do.... take the old belt off and compare
it to the new belt...... always compare it to the old belt before beginning
the (sometimes) arduous task of installing it.... never fail to compare the
belts before beginning the arduous task of installing the new belt.... DId I
mention that it is a good idea to compare the old belt to the new belt to be
sure you have the right one?

There's an old saying.... "Many's the slip twixt the cup and the lip....".
Auto parts seem to be especially prone... Someone that doesn't care about
numbers, compiles the parts descriptions.... someone that dosesn't care
about car parts compiles the numbers and someone that doesn't care about
parts or numbers produces the catalogue. If the partsman is good, he wont
add to the problem and may even know if a catalogue error exists or not
(horrors!!! others besides techs can screw up!!). If the partsman is not so
good, all bets are off.

Ford has used the base part number '8620' to describe a FEAD belt (formerly
fan belt) for many years.... since we know the part is a FEAD belt, the
point is moot. There may be a change in engineering part numbers (since all
the belts I use are properly referred to by a motorcraft #.... JK(number of
grooves)-(length of belt).... ) to denote a different part entirely, a
change in composition, a change in technology incorporated into the
production run, even a change in packaging can trigger a change
inengineering numbers.

You could receive a flood of anecdotal coincedences, tales, tales unrelated
but significant and juhior in the basement jerking your chain as hard as he
can and be no nearer the answer to your question..... Your best and most
reliable solution is to bac away from the computer, reduce the seat/chair
interface, boldly grasp the appropriate tool and prove it to yourself one
way or the other.

Feelin' kinda frisky tonight.... is there a full moon????


"Steven Hilgendorf" > wrote in message
...
> Hello, just purchased a new serpentine belt for my 1998 Explorer EB, V8
> from one of my local Ford dealers. Now that I'm home I noticed a slight
> difference in the Ford part numbers and wonder if I purchased the
> correct belt?
>

Even having verified the number, I found my "genuine Ford" belt was somehow
bigger than the original one (well, it "must" have been looser because it
squealed badly). I only arrived at that conclusion after also replacing the
idler pulley and tensioner (since the tensioner is a well-known failure item
anyway and both their bearings seemed in poor shape).

So, after replacing the other items and still having a horrendous squeal
(which naturally only became evident AFTER I tossed out the old belt), I
went to the auto parts store and got one (cheaper, natch!) from them. Ever
so slightly smaller, it was difficult to even convince myself it WAS
smaller. But it was clearly the same thickness, width and grooving.
However, it went on with more difficultly (having to displace the tensioner
more.

At last, there is no more squeal.

Oh, and there IS a physical difference in the idler pulley - the new one is
flat, not with the "shoulders". Different part number? Dunno. But I was
at their counter insisting they gave me the wrong part. I conceded, kept
it, and it seems to work fine.
--

The tensioner was a recall item, if anyone out here didn't know that. At
least it was on my '97. I had almost the same problem noisy start up, But
the belt looked fine, no cracks or abrasions. But that damn noise!!!! Where
was it coming from I listened to all the bearings and all sounded smooth
running. I again looked at the belt, still it looked fine. But that noise is
driving me crazy, so I bought a new belt from NAPA and the noise went away!
My guess is the belt was stretched ever so slightly that it would cause the
tensioner to rattle, even after it was replaced.

Searcher1

"Herb Kauhry" > wrote in message
...
> Even having verified the number, I found my "genuine Ford" belt was
> somehow
> bigger than the original one (well, it "must" have been looser because it
> squealed badly). I only arrived at that conclusion after also replacing
> the
> idler pulley and tensioner (since the tensioner is a well-known failure
> item
> anyway and both their bearings seemed in poor shape).
>
> So, after replacing the other items and still having a horrendous squeal
> (which naturally only became evident AFTER I tossed out the old belt), I
> went to the auto parts store and got one (cheaper, natch!) from them.
> Ever
> so slightly smaller, it was difficult to even convince myself it WAS
> smaller. But it was clearly the same thickness, width and grooving.
> However, it went on with more difficultly (having to displace the
> tensioner
> more.
>
> At last, there is no more squeal.
>
> Oh, and there IS a physical difference in the idler pulley - the new one
> is
> flat, not with the "shoulders". Different part number? Dunno. But I was
> at their counter insisting they gave me the wrong part. I conceded, kept
> it, and it seems to work fine.
> --
>
>
>

Jim Warman wrote:

> There's an old saying.... "Many's the slip twixt the cup and the lip....".
> Auto parts seem to be especially prone... Someone that doesn't care about
> numbers, compiles the parts descriptions.... someone that dosesn't care
> about car parts compiles the numbers and someone that doesn't care about
> parts or numbers produces the catalogue. If the partsman is good, he wont
> add to the problem and may even know if a catalogue error exists or not
> (horrors!!! others besides techs can screw up!!). If the partsman is not so
> good, all bets are off.

I learned about that one the hard way -- bought a replacement radiator
hose for a Mazda 626. it didn't fit. Went somewhere else and bought
one; it was a different brand, but the same as the first. Took it back,
along with the hose I was trying to replace.

It took the guy about 30 minutes of comparing the part I brought in to
every hose they had to find me the right hose.

Whoever compiled the 3rd party book was obviously WAY wrong on that hose
for that car, and the aftermarket companies had all followed the same
wrong info.

-Kevin

"Still having that horrendous squeal...". Did we leave somthing out of our
original post, perhaps?.... Ain't nobody paying me to help you save money,
Herb... the least you could do is give me a little factoid or
two....Especially when you come back with an almost "holier than thou"
atttitude.

Let's toss in a dig about not pitching old parts before we are sure they're
the culprit. No wonder people think techs are dicks... if the customer
doesn't give the whole story, the part that is given may mean nothing.

I do this for "warm and fuzzies"... I feel good when I've helped someone
cure an insurmountable problem or save a few bucks. I do this for free. If
you can't be straight up with me, I can't be straight up with
you................

Auto parts ae like tools and furniture.... there is a reason why some things
are cheaper than others... obviously, you feel that you deserve cheap.


"Herb Kauhry" > wrote in message
...
> Even having verified the number, I found my "genuine Ford" belt was
somehow
> bigger than the original one (well, it "must" have been looser because it
> squealed badly). I only arrived at that conclusion after also replacing
the
> idler pulley and tensioner (since the tensioner is a well-known failure
item
> anyway and both their bearings seemed in poor shape).
>
> So, after replacing the other items and still having a horrendous squeal
> (which naturally only became evident AFTER I tossed out the old belt), I
> went to the auto parts store and got one (cheaper, natch!) from them.
Ever
> so slightly smaller, it was difficult to even convince myself it WAS
> smaller. But it was clearly the same thickness, width and grooving.
> However, it went on with more difficultly (having to displace the
tensioner
> more.
>
> At last, there is no more squeal.
>
> Oh, and there IS a physical difference in the idler pulley - the new one
is
> flat, not with the "shoulders". Different part number? Dunno. But I was
> at their counter insisting they gave me the wrong part. I conceded, kept
> it, and it seems to work fine.
> --
>
>
>

Huh? Having a bad day? What are you talking about? Sounds like you are
accusing me of knocking you for some advice you might have dispensed along
the way. Frankly I don't remember whether you chimed in or not when I was
trying to find alternate explanations for why my belt was so noisy. It
eventually turned out to be a belt that wasn't the right size.

I'm just recounting the mess I made for myself by not keeping the old belt
around a bit longer and/or checking it more closely.

No need to get so snippy.

--

"Jim Warman" > wrote in message
news:92ARd.141$9a3.42@edtnps91...
> "Still having that horrendous squeal...". Did we leave somthing out of our
> original post, perhaps?.... Ain't nobody paying me to help you save money,
> Herb... the least you could do is give me a little factoid or
> two....Especially when you come back with an almost "holier than thou"
> atttitude.
>
> Let's toss in a dig about not pitching old parts before we are sure
they're
> the culprit. No wonder people think techs are dicks... if the customer
> doesn't give the whole story, the part that is given may mean nothing.
>
> I do this for "warm and fuzzies"... I feel good when I've helped someone
> cure an insurmountable problem or save a few bucks. I do this for free. If
> you can't be straight up with me, I can't be straight up with
> you................
>
> Auto parts ae like tools and furniture.... there is a reason why some
things
> are cheaper than others... obviously, you feel that you deserve cheap.
>
>
> "Herb Kauhry" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Even having verified the number, I found my "genuine Ford" belt was
> somehow
> > bigger than the original one (well, it "must" have been looser because
it
> > squealed badly). I only arrived at that conclusion after also replacing
> the
> > idler pulley and tensioner (since the tensioner is a well-known failure
> item
> > anyway and both their bearings seemed in poor shape).
> >
> > So, after replacing the other items and still having a horrendous squeal
> > (which naturally only became evident AFTER I tossed out the old belt), I
> > went to the auto parts store and got one (cheaper, natch!) from them.
> Ever
> > so slightly smaller, it was difficult to even convince myself it WAS
> > smaller. But it was clearly the same thickness, width and grooving.
> > However, it went on with more difficultly (having to displace the
> tensioner
> > more.
> >
> > At last, there is no more squeal.
> >
> > Oh, and there IS a physical difference in the idler pulley - the new one
> is
> > flat, not with the "shoulders". Different part number? Dunno. But I
was
> > at their counter insisting they gave me the wrong part. I conceded,
kept
> > it, and it seems to work fine.
> > --
> >
> >
> >
>
>

Ok, the new belt was the same size, length/width, as the old, and
installed perfectly, once I found an extra short 15mm socket for my 1/2
inch breaker bar.

Interesting you should mention 'noisy start up,' as this is the reason I
replaced the belt! When I took the vehicle in for the "noisy start up"
the service adviser said it was the belt that needed replacement, even
though I thought it was something else since the noise is only present
when cold and goes away once the vehicle warms up.

The old belt has ~53,000 miles on it, looks fine, no cracks at all.
Since the '98 Explorer still has the problem with the new belt
installed, I guess I will make another appointment and see what they say
now (

Thanks to everyone who replied,

Steven
..
Searcher 1 wrote:
> The tensioner was a recall item, if anyone out here didn't know that. At
> least it was on my '97. I had almost the same problem noisy start up, But
> the belt looked fine, no cracks or abrasions. But that damn noise!!!! Where
> was it coming from I listened to all the bearings and all sounded smooth
> running. I again looked at the belt, still it looked fine. But that noise is
> driving me crazy, so I bought a new belt from NAPA and the noise went away!
> My guess is the belt was stretched ever so slightly that it would cause the
> tensioner to rattle, even after it was replaced.
>
> Searcher1
>
> "Herb Kauhry" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>Even having verified the number, I found my "genuine Ford" belt was
>>somehow
>>bigger than the original one (well, it "must" have been looser because it
>>squealed badly). I only arrived at that conclusion after also replacing
>>the
>>idler pulley and tensioner (since the tensioner is a well-known failure
>>item
>>anyway and both their bearings seemed in poor shape).
>>
>>So, after replacing the other items and still having a horrendous squeal
>>(which naturally only became evident AFTER I tossed out the old belt), I
>>went to the auto parts store and got one (cheaper, natch!) from them.
>>Ever
>>so slightly smaller, it was difficult to even convince myself it WAS
>>smaller. But it was clearly the same thickness, width and grooving.
>>However, it went on with more difficultly (having to displace the
>>tensioner
>>more.
>>
>>At last, there is no more squeal.
>>
>>Oh, and there IS a physical difference in the idler pulley - the new one
>>is
>>flat, not with the "shoulders". Different part number? Dunno. But I was
>>at their counter insisting they gave me the wrong part. I conceded, kept
>>it, and it seems to work fine.
>>--
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>

Jim, my receipt indicated:

JK6*943*AA - V-BELT
JK6*942*AA - REPLACING PART-NO. FOR ABOVE PART

My dealer must use a smiler number to what your use too. The F77 number
I used in my original post was taken from the belt/package part itself.
The new belt was the same size, length/width/ribs, as the old one from
what I could tell.

Thank you,

Steven

Jim Warman wrote:

> Ford has used the base part number '8620' to describe a FEAD belt (formerly
> fan belt) for many years.... since we know the part is a FEAD belt, the
> point is moot. There may be a change in engineering part numbers (since all
> the belts I use are properly referred to by a motorcraft #.... JK(number of
> grooves)-(length of belt).... ) to denote a different part entirely, a
> change in composition, a change in technology incorporated into the
> production run, even a change in packaging can trigger a change
> inengineering numbers.
>
> "Steven Hilgendorf" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>Hello, just purchased a new serpentine belt for my 1998 Explorer EB, V8
>>from one of my local Ford dealers. Now that I'm home I noticed a slight
>>difference in the Ford part numbers and wonder if I purchased the
>>correct belt?
>>
>
>
>

Whoops.... my bad... I had thought you were the original poster and had
neglected to include some valuable information. My apologies...